E. O. Orpet Contributions: Garden and Forest Magazine

Date: [unknown] [unknown]
Location: New Jersey, Massachusetts

Preface

"Garden and Forest: A Journal of Horticulture, Landscape Art, and Forestry" was the first American journal devoted to horticulture, botany, landscape design and preservation, national and urban park development, scientific forestry, and the conservation of forest resources. The journal was established on 29 February 1888 by Charles Sprague Sargent (1841-1927), the founding director of the Arnold Arboretum of Harvard University. Mr. William Stiles was its managing editor. Though the journal was published independently, Sargent considered the weekly magazine the organ of the Arboretum^[1].

Numerous professions, scientific forestry, botany, horticulture, city planning, and scenic preservation, trace their early development in part to the influence of Garden and Forest. But landscape architecture, which aspired to combine planning and design on many scales, enjoyed a special status in the magazine and influenced its editorial structure. Landscape architecture was not limited to the "planting of flower-beds and of ornamental shrubs," the Garden and Forest editors asserted in 1897, but was a "broad and catholic art . . . as useful in the preservation of the Yosemite Valley or the scenery of Niagara as it is in planning a pastoral park or the grounds about a country house." Descriptions like these summarized not only the ambitions of landscape architects, but also the editorial goals of Garden and Forest. It was the emphasis on landscape architecture, Stiles felt, that distinguished Garden and Forest from "any other garden paper." Stiles and Sargent published articles on horticulture and "country place" design alongside calls for the "Preservation of Natural Scenery" from suburban Boston to the Sierra Nevada. Readers were urged to expand the aesthetic sensibilities developed in their own gardens and to become advocates for better management of the larger landscape, especially of public parks and forests^[2].

If the practice of landscape architecture offered conceptual unity to Garden and Forest, the magazine in turn helped define the emerging theory of the profession. This was largely due to the contributions of the art historian and critic Mariana Griswold (Mrs. Schuyler) Van Rensselaer, who contributed a total of almost 50 articles beginning with a seven-part series on "Landscape Gardening" in 1888. Already an established art critic, Van Rensselaer became intrigued with landscape architecture through her friendship with the elder Frederick Law Olmsted. In her Garden and Forest articles, she set out to define landscape architecture as "landscape art," which, after architecture, sculpture, and painting, constituted the "fourth art" of design. To Olmsted's great satisfaction, she helped establish the professional status of landscape architects by defining their practice as a fine art, unlike the craft or trade of gardening^[2].

The full ten-volume run of Garden and Forest contains approximately 8,400 pages, including over 1,000 illustrations and 2,000 pages of advertisements. Each seven-to-eleven-page issue contains articles that are literary, scholarly and scientific, and of interest to readers ranging from curious amateurs to practicing professionals.

It provides practical information on specific plants as well as horticultural practices, guidance on the design of gardens, the growth of trees, and the care and management of public and private grounds. Each issue usually includes several departments: Editorials, New or Little Known Plants, Entomology, Pomology, Correspondence, Cultural Notes, Plant Notes, The Forest, Recent Publications and Periodic Literature. Some issues also include listings of Exhibitions and Expositions, and summaries of Retail Flower Market Prices. Many of the articles are illustrated. The art work includes line drawings, halftones, diagrams, plans, botanical illustrations, portraits, and landscapes. Every issue also contains at least four pages of advertisements that provide a valuable snapshot of contemporary commercial products, services, and establishments. Each volume has an annual index and list of illustrations^[1].

E.O. wrote well for a man with only a primary school education. He did not contribute in the magazine's first year, but began in February 1889 with roughly bi-weekly articles, continuing through the last year of the magazine in 1897, (with the exception of a six month hiatus in mid-1890, when he removed from Woolson's Nursery in Passaic NJ, and relocated to the Thayer estate in South Lancaster, MA). The total of these contributions forms an encyclopedic coverage of the cultivation of flowering plants. Anyone who has a garden of hardy perennials will find useful information that informs us today with similar utility as it provided its readers over a century ago.

The scope of discussions in Garden and Forest undoubtedly expanded E. O.'s horizons, allowing him to leap beyond his tradecraft as professional horticulturalist and nurseryman, and to imagine himself involved in something much bigger, beautification of large-scale civic spaces, which he realized in his later career through his landscape projects in Santa Barbara, Calif.

The contacts he made with other contributors, including the firm of Frederick Olmsted Sr., likely facilitated his later career. But his love of the plants themselves, how to coax the greatest beauty from them, likely remained the strong core of his professional interest. It is this interest that comes through so clearly in the following contributions.

E. O. Orpet: Horticulture In His Own Words

20 February 1889
Doronicums as Pot Plants
Although the proper place for these showy Compositae is the hardy flower-garden, they are also suitable for use as winter-flowering plants. If lifted with care in autumn, potted, and placed in a cool house, in the earlier months of spring an abundance of bright yellow flowers will be the result. Besides their beauty, the flowers have the additional value of lasting well when cut. With the above treatment we now have Doronicum Caucasicum in full bloom. This species does not exceed twelve inches in height, and does well in five-inch pots, making it a useful pot plant. D. plantagineum excelsum is also showing flower-buds. This is much taller in habit, and under liberal treatment it grows four or five feet high, with flowers four inches across. D. Austriacum and D. clusii are equally desirable. After flowering in pots, the plants may be placed in the border for the summer, and a second, and even third, crop of flowers will be produced if the soil is rich and abundant water is supplied. Passaic NJ, E. Orpet.

27 February 1889
Some Choice Narcissus
The beautiful little N. Cyclamineas has proved to be of easy culture. Collected bulbs flowering with us for the second season, show a marked improvement, both in size and quantity of bloom. Let us hope that this little gem, after having been lost to cultivation for more than 250 years, has come at last to stay. N triandrus, from Portugal, is now opening in abundance its pretty, pale, pendent flowers. This is often considered hard to keep, but thrives well here under the treatment given to others of its class in a soil two parts loam to one of peat. The varieties of N. Bulbocodium give a display for several months, commencing with var. monophyllus, which is white and of the characteristic "Hoop Petticoat" form. Var. citrinus comes next, with pale yellow flowers, which are just now at their best. N. Bulbocodiumz is the last in order of flowering, and comes a month later. We have also a form of N. Bulbocodium from Portugal which is quite distinct, no two bulbs producing flowers alike, but differing principally in the cut-off appearance of the corona. To the above may be added N. serotinus and N. juncifolius, making an interesting collection for those who have small space at their disposal. All the above-named do well in five inch pots at a temperature of 50 to 55 degrees. Passaic NJ, E. O. Orpet.

6 March 1889
Clematis paniculata
The question is often asked, "What is a good white Clematis to plant as a companion to C. Jackmanni?" To this may be replied C. paniculata. This Japanese species is of vigorous habit, floriferous, hardy, and, above all, long-lived. Young plants with us last summer grew ten feet high and flowered from the ground to the ends of the shoots. In general appearance, C. paniculata somewhat resembles C. flammula, but the foliage is large and leathery, and the flowers are produced in panicles often two feet in length, of a pleasing ivory-white color. They may be seen at their best about the second week in September, at which time the foliage is hidden by the flowers, which are followed by awned seeds with a reddish tint, and last until severe frost sets in. Although introduced in 1796, C. paniculata is by no means common in this country, owing to the difficulty of obtaining good seed, it being usually killed by frost before it is sufficiently matured to germinate.
Shortia galacifolia
This interesting plant has proved perfectly hardy in New Jersey. When it has the protection of a cool house in winter it thrives better, however. The flowers are produced.earlier, and last several weeks in good condition. Established plants flower freely. We have one in a four-inch pot with twenty-four buds, some of which are already expanded. Those who wish to cultivate this plant should, if possible, get established plants; collected ones are uncertain. Shortia galacifolia succeeds well in a soil composed of two parts peat and one of loam. It requires plenty of moisture at all times. We have also found that a half shady spot, such as a cool frame, is best suited to the plant in summer, as the sunlight is apt to scorch the young foliage.
Strong Vitality of Crocus Flowers
In the latter part of November about fifty bulbs of a species of Crocus, probably C. sativus or C. speciosus, were received from a correspondent in Turkey. They came by mail, packed in dry cotton wool, and were, to all appearances, lifeless, but evidently belonging to the autumn-flowering section of the genus, as there were dried flowers of a purplish color attached to the bulbs. However, it was decided to plant them, and, shortly after this was done, signs of growth were visible in the production of leaves and the thickening of the leaf-sheath of the membrane. This thickening was thought to indicate the appearance of more blooms, when we were surprised to find that seed-pods and perfect seeds were formed, and this after the bulbs had traveled thousands of miles between the time of flowering and subsequent continuation of growth. Passaic NJ, E. O. Orpet.

27 March 1889
Galanthus Elwesii
Last fall we planted several hundred bulbs of this pretty Snowdrop in a cold-frame. As the result, probably, of thle abnormal mildness of the winter season, the first week in February found all of them in full bloom, and they are still in good condition, although the soil is frozen solid. The sashes serve to keep off snow and rain, enabling them to maintain their snow-white purity. G. Elwesii is quite distinct fromn G. nivalis and its varieties, the petals being distended and narrowed at the base, the inner perianth-segments smaller, and constricted above their middle. Planted with Chionodoxa Luciliae, this Snowdrop makes a pleasing sight in the early spring mnonths. Both are perfectly hardy.
Ornamental Grasses
The Eulalias, especially E. Japonica and its varieties, Zebrina and Variegata, are well known as ornamental plants, and deservedly so. The Eulalia gracillima univittata, however, is not as widely known as it should be. It is more of a dwarf than those named above, and is of a graceful habit, its distinctive feature being a pure white mid-rib running through each leaf. Last year this plant fully established its value and reliability as a decorative plant. Scirpus Tabermontani zebrina, or Porcupine-grass, as it is sometirmes called, is well worth growing, too. Being of doubtful hardiness, for assured safety it should be wintered in a cool green-house. When first introduced into cultivation it was grown as a warm green-house plant, but has since proved nearly hardy. Any little trouble taken with it will be amply rewarded by its tufts of leaves, two to three feet long, resembling bunches of porcupine-quills, except in color, which in the grass is green and white in alternate bands. The younger leaves are suffused with rose. Another species, equally pretty, is S. Holoschoenus variegatus, a grass with leaves banded in the same way. This is quite hardy, and grows a foot high. These grasses do best in soils that are moist and rich.
Astilbe Japonica aureo reticulata
This is a more valuable plant, if possible, than the species, being quite as useful for flowers, while the leaves are veined with rich yellow. The leaf-stalks, too, are noticeable for their crimson hue, giving the plant a distinct and attractive appearance when grown as a pot plant. This variety is of strong constitution, and promises to become popular. E. O. Orpet. Passaic NJ

3 April 1889
The Flower Garden
The month of April should be a busy time among hardy, herbaceous plants. All dead foliage should be removed and a light top-dressing of well-decayed manure or leaf-mould applied and lightly forked in; care should be taken, however, not to fork where bulbs are planted. Any additions to the hardy plant-border should be made as soon as possible, and this is especially advisable in the case of all kinds of Lilies, for if these are not planted, early root-growth commences, and the prospect of good flowers the first season is not promising. So as not to dry out in summer, even heavier soil, as clay, should be added. With this treatment even the best double kinds will thrive and be perennial. Choice Alpines, such as Androsaces, Gentiana excisa, G. verna, G. aculis, Dianthus glacialis, D. neglectus and Arabis Androsace, should be examined. They will probably be lifted by the action of frost. When such is the case, make them firm, and place a little fresh soil on the surface, and if pieces of porous stone be placed round the plants they will not be liable to injury from heavy rains or dry spells. Hellebores are becoming popular, owing to their season of flowering. These are deep-rooting and need to be planted where they will be sheltered from direct sunshine. We find them succeed best when planted in this way, and when the ground is dug deep and lightened with plenty of leaf-mould. Any bare, dry places should be planted with Pyrethrum Tchihatcihewii. This will form a nice carpet even on a dry bank; and for shady places, such as under trees, where grass will not succeed, Vinca minor and its varieties may be used, and when planted a foot apart a good covering will be the result the first season. Such perennials as may have been raised from seed, should, when large enough to handle, be pricked out in pots, and when well rooted be planted in their permanent positions. Seedlings of many kinds when treated in this way flower well the first year. Passaic NJ, E. O. Orpet.

17 April 1889
Spring Flowers
Owing to the exceptionally mild spring, hardy-flowering plants and bulbs are making a display fully two weeks in advance of their usual flowering period. First in the order of flowering comes Ranunculus aneinonoides, with its masses of Anemone-like, pale pink flowers, an inch across, produced in advance of the much-divided, glaucous-green leaves. This plant is comparatively new, being introduced into cultivation from the Styrian Alps in I883, and it is a charming little plant. R. anzemonoides succeeds well in a moist position in the open border. Fritillaria iudica has been noticeable for its pretty, pendent yellow flowers, usually solitary, on stems six to eight inches high, and lasting a month in good condition. This plant is a native of the western states. Coulter in his " Manual" gives it as distributed through "Utah and Montana to the Sierra Nevada and British Columbia." It cannot, however, be very plentiful, as collectors refuse to supply it a price. This is to be regretted, as F. piudica has a chaste beauty peculiarly its own. Iris reticulata is now at its best. As soon as frost heaves the ground the flowers of this pretty Iris are produced simultaneous with the leaves, and is a good plant for planting en masse for spring effect. Its variety, Krelagei, is a few days earlier, of a paler color, and devoid of perfume, which latter the species possesses to a pleasing degree. I. reticulata produces offsets from the bulbs quite freely, and these may be relied on to flower the second year. Beds of Bulbocodium vernum have a pleasing effect already, their purple Crocuslike flowers being produced in advance of the foliage. When these are planted Colchicumn autumnale should be mixed with the Bulbocodiums. This will give a corresponding crop of bloom, of the same appearance in fall. Erica carnea is blooming more freely than it has ever done. One plant here a yard across makes a striking display, being literally smothered with its pretty pink flowers. Many think the Heather is not hardy in this section. It is hardy enough here as regards standing the cold, but unless protected by snow or some other covering, bright sunshine scorches the tops in very cold weather. Eranthis hyemalis, the Winter Aconite, Scilla Sibirica and the Crocusses are all in bloom, making the hardy flower-garden an attractive spot, even though frost does visit us every night. Passaic NJ, E. O. Orpet.

15 May 1889
Trilliums
Wood-Lilies, or Wake Robins, as they are often called, are among the best of our native spring-flowering plants. Many of the species are valuable for pot culture, and when grown in this way may be easily brought into bloom several weeks before their usual flowering period. To grow Trilliums well, a moist, shady place and rich vegetable mould are necessary, for when found growing wild they are usually in shady woods, where the decaying vegetable matter affords abundance of rich soil for them to luxuriate in year after year. T. grandiflorum is probably the best-known species, and deservedly so on account of its large flowers, snow-white when first expanded, and changing to rosy-pink with age. A quantity of this Trillium growing wild, and just in bloom, is a sight to see and remember. If visited a week or two later the appearance of the flowers is so completely changed that the place will hardly be recognized. T. ovatum is a Pacific Coast species and is as ornamental as T. grandifiorum, the flowers being pure white and fully as large. These two species are often confounded, but on examination are seen to be quite distinct in the shape of the petals and stigma. T. ereclum is a species common in the Eastern States, having green leaves with dark purple flowers. A white variety is also quite common, with yellowish-white petals and purple ovary, a very distinct plant, known as T. erectum albumr. Another eastern species is T. cernuum, or Nodding Trillium. This also is whiteflowered. T. sessile is a species with purple flowers and foliage prettily blotched with purple. The variety T. sessile Californicum is a plant larger in all its parts and with the coloring of leaves and flowers of a much brighter color. This is a very desirable plant, and worth cultivating for its foliage alone. T. nivale and T. pusilluzm are two dwarf species not exceeding six inches in height, both having white flowers. T. pteiolalumz is very distinct in its foliage, which differs from all others in being heart-shaped and borne on long petioles. All of these Trilliums are of easy cultivation when given the position named, and a little trouble taken to make the plants feel comfortable will be amply rewarded. The best time to plant Trilliums is as soon as possible after the foliage has died down in summer or early in the fall. Dicentra eximia.-We received some two years ago a plant of the true Dicentra eximia from a correspondent in Tennessee, and after growing it for two seasons we find that it may be strongly recommended as a hardy border-plant. The flowers are borne in compound racemles on stems about a foot high, and are produced simultaneously witlh the beautiful, finely-cut foliage, which starts in April and continues until autumn frosts. As a border-plant D. eximia is as ornamental as the old D. spectabilis or Bleeding Heart, and is much to be preferred on account of its being persistent. D. sfiec/abilis dies down during the hot summner months. We have found D. eximia to be easily propagated by division and also by seed, when planted in fall. The plant is perfectly hardy near New York. Passaic NJ, E. 0. Orpet.

22 May 1889
Isopyrum biternatum
This pretty native plant is well worthy of cultivation on account of its finely-cut foliage and pure white flowers, which are produced in early spring and have a charming effect when planted in the front row of the flower border among other low-growing plants. This species is a native of the western States, and is perfectly hardy. Another interesting plant is Synliyyris renzformis, which was flowrering early in March, its blue flowers arresting attention by their intense color. Although this plant is found only on the Pacific Coast, it is quite hardy in the eastern States, and even when not in bloom is worth having for its large, shining, reniform leaves. Phlox bifida has generally proved impatient of cultivation, and the more care bestowed upon it the more slender was the hope of success. Last spring we were induced to plant it in a gravelly soil; and, to our surprise, the plants are now in a vigorous condition and flowering freely. The petals are so deeply cleft as to remind one of the spokes of a wheel. Gentiana acaulis.---What can equal in intensity the rich deep blue of the Gentianella? We have a number of strong plants covered with their lovely blue flowers. Many species of this genus are hard to cultivate, G. verna being one which we have tried and failed with miserably, and there are others of which the sanme might be said; but it is not so with G. acaulis, which is, perhaps, the finest species in cultivation. If planted in a rich, moist soil, where the roots mnay penetrate deeply and be in no danger of drouth, G. acaulis may be grown and flowered successfully year after year. Ours have received no protection from hot sun in summer and have passed through a winter which, on the whole, has not been a good one for alpine plants, which are usually at their best after a winter covering of snow, and yet the plants under note are now a sight to gladden the dullest eye. Those who wish to grow the Gentianella are advised to get strong plants to start with. Our experience with weak ones has taught us this lesson.
Polemoniums.
There appears to be some confusion about the species of this beautiful fanmily of hardy perennials. In the Dictionary of Gardening, P. Richardsonii is given as a synonym of P. humile. Now we have P. humile in bloomn side bly side with P. Richardsonii, and the two plants are quite distinct; P. Richardsonii has blue flowers nearly an inch in diameter and grows nearly two feet high. This we obtained from a reliable firm in England. P. humile is a much dwarfer plant, with a somewhat creeping habit, and the flowers correspondingly small. This we received direct from the Rocky Mountains. Also, the two (being synonyms) are given as flowering in July; here they are at their best in April. I should like to have the experience of other growers of these plants. Passaic NJ, E. O. Orpet.

10 July 1889
Orchids in New Jersey
Although small in comparison with the area of many other states, New Jersey possesses a surprisingly rich flora of its own. Its shady hill-sides and extensive swamps are peculiarly adapted to the growth and reproduction of the various members of the Orchid family indigenous to the eastern States. I have found places in shady woods where Cypripedium pubescens and C. parviflorum were found covering acres of ground, the fragrance of their flowers being especially noticeable. This I have never found so pronounced when plants were grown in gardens. These two plants are found growing in clumps together here, and it would appear as if the one might be a minor form of the other. Orchis spectabilis is plentiful in the same locality, and so are Habenaria Hookeri and H. orbiculata, all thriving luxuriantly in the rich vegetable mould, the result of ages of growth and decay. C. acaule grows on lower levels, and appears to thrive best in a drier soil. Just what this plant needs to keep it in cultivation we have never been able to ascertain. During the past few days I have found whole colonies of Pogonia ophioglossoides and Calopogon pulchellus, the forner noticeable for its exquisite sweetness and the richly-marked lip, while the Calopogon could be distinguished at a long distance by its purple flowers, an inch and a half in diameter. If these two plants were exotics how they would be sought and appreciated. The same may be said of Cypripedium spectabile. This plant is found near Lake Hopatcong, and is said to be quite plentiful, though we never had the good fortune to find more than a few plants. Habenaria fimbriata, H. virescens and H. lacera are now in flower. The two latter have inconspicuous green flowers, and are often passed by unseen. In July and August the orange-colored H. ciliaris will be at is best. I shall never forget the impression made by the first glimpse of a swamp of many acres tinged over with the bright golden-yellow of the Fringed Orchis. The plants were found growing literally by the thousand, and showed considerable variation in the color of their flowers. H. tridentata and H. psycodes are also found at the same place and time. I have seen quantities of Arethusa bulbosa that were collected near here in New Jersey, but tried in vain to learn the locality, and although it is quite plentiful in some parts of the state, it has never been my good fortune to find it. Last year I found one plant of Habenaria rotundifolia, which is rarely seen so far south. This year I sought it again, having carefully noted the spot, but it was gone. Some zealous collector had probably found it and taken it away. Passaic NJ, O.

14 August 1889
Named Hollyhocks
For two years past we have been growing and flowering all the named Hollyhocks it has been possible to obtain of the famous Chater strain, nunmbering, in all, some twenty-five sorts, all of which are distinct, and some for perfect form and rich color well deserving the epithet beautiful. For the guidance of those who wish to grow these fine, oldfashioned garden-flowers, I would recommend among white varieties Virginalis as the best, it being pure white and of good form. Royal White has a tinge of yellow in the centre; Enchantress is a pretty, delicate blush; Lady Paxton is pink, with a large flower and very wide guard-petals; Constance is pink, large, and very double; Fairest of the Fair is a bright rose, large, and very pure in color; Fanny Chater is a dark rose; Reverend Dix is crimson, and a first-rate kind; George Eyles is dark crimson; Theresa is crimson and pink, prettily fringed; Warrior is salmon-red; Royal Scarlet is orange-red; Imperator is dark-red; Plurimus Dulcis, a beautiful buff; Joshua Clarke, sulphur-yellow; Gem of the Yellows, an intensely bright yellow; Royal Purple, a dark purple, and a fine flower. Every one of those named is distinct and worthy of cultivation. If seeds are sown as soon as gathered, and the plants carefully potted off and protected during winter, most of them will flower during the following summer. Our plants were raised from seed sown early in spring and planted out in the open, where they flowered the followipng year. This is the best way to get strong, large, flowering stems; many of ours were eight feet high and flowered five feet of their length. We find it necessary here in New Jersey to protect the plants in winter when left in the open ground, and place a covering of leaves or salt hady around them just after the ground freezes and before snow. It would be better still to pot them and place in a cool house, or frame and plant out again early in spring. We do not anticipate any such evil results in this climate from the Hollyhock disease as have occurred in England, where the culture of this flower has been almost given up. Here, in wet seasons, we have had plants slightly affected, but they have invariably grown out of it and been none the worse. Hollyhocks mnay always be relied upon to come true from seed. Of the thousands we raised, not one showed signs of variation from the description given of them.
Viola pedata
The pretty Bird's-foot Violet, when planted in quantity, is one of the finest of its genus for the decoration of the garden, not only on account of its unique form, both of flowers and foliage, but on account of its free flowering qualities. The varieties of this plant, V. p. alba and V. p. bicolor (the Pansy Violet), are prettier than the type. This Violet seems to vary considerably in size of flower and shape of leaves; the best that have ever come under my notice are a quantity received last spring from Tennessee. These were planted in a bed and have become thoroughly established, having flowered for some time, and, in spite of recent heavy rains, remain as bright as ever. Many of the blooms measure one and three-fourths inches in diameter, eclipsing any we have ever seen that were collected in the eastern states. Many are under the impression that this plant is difficult to cultivate, and our own experience was not satisfactory until we tried planting in sandy soil well enriched with decayed vegetable-mould, when the results proved all that could be desired. All the varieties of V. pedata come from true seed, but seed is very liable to be scattered by the plant itself, owing to the propelling power of the divisions of the capsule when ripening, so that these must be picked as soon as ever they show signs of maturity and the seed sown at once and allowed to freeze during winter; germination will then take place the following spring. Viola pedata should be taken up every third year, the crowns separated and replanted; and this is best done early in the fall, so that the spring crop of flowers may not be diminished, as would be the case if this operation were deferred until spring. Passaic NJ, E. O. Orpet.

18 September 1889
Autumn Work in the Flower Garden
When any alterations in the flower-garden are contemplated, many of these can always be made in autumn, and whatever is done in the way of shifting plants should not be delayed too long. The fall is the only proper time to miove such early flowering plants as German Iris, Paeonies, Phloxes of the Subulata section, Narcissus, Camassias and all others that bloom in the early summuer months. Plants lifted carefully at least six weeks before the advent of frost have ample time to mnake enough young roots to carry them through the winter, as the soil is still quite warm, and wherever it is sufficiently moist, action is by no means suspended. Lilies may now be transplanted as soon as the foliage and stems show signs of ripening, as this is the only time when they take a rest, and but a short one at that. A little later, roots will be starting from the base of the bulbs to carry them through the winter and until such time in the spring as the shoots are far enough advanced to supply their own feeders. Many failures result from planting Lilies in fall, because the bulbs have no chance to establish themselves before all growth is arrested by frost, and they are in a poor condition to meet the demand upon them in spring, when the young shoots should be produced. It is often the case that bulbs remain dormant a whole year from this cause. Any one who has grown Lilies is always in a position to report failures with some one or other of his pets, and this is not to be wondered at when it is considered that bulbs are received from their homes in all parts of the world and all are expected to thrive satisfactorily in the same spot and under the same treatment. Here in the East the Japanese Lilies grow without any trouble, but there are many of the California kinds that require protection, and this is easily provided. They should be planted with others of the more tender kinds, suclh as L. giganteum, L. Krameri, L. excelsum, L. longiflorum, L. Dalmaticum, L. Szovitsianum, all near each other, where they may be shaded from the mid-day sun, and when the ground begins to freeze up a frame may be placed over them, filled with dry leaves and covered with shutters to keep out rain and sun-heat. In this way many delicate plants may be cultivated successfully. We never had Anemone fulgens so good as when thus treated. In the early part of May the bed was a perfect blaze of color. Sternbergia lutea, too, may be grown and flowered well, and many other things that cannot be trusted to the tender nmercies of an Eastern winter. The frame should be removed as soon as-the shoots are above ground in spring and all danger from spring frosts is passed. If the soil be heavy, and of a retentive nature, the addition of a little sand for the choicer Lilies will be an advantage, and we find powdered charcoal excellent to place around the base of the bulbs themselves. This promotes healthy root-action and assists in keeping away worms and grubs. If the soil is poor and it is necessary to add manure, care must be taken that it does not come in contact with the bulbs, which latter should first be covered with two or three inches of soil. The manure, which should be well decomposed, or, better still, decayed leaf-mould, should then be applied. In a position shaded from hot sunshine, and where tree-roots are not liable to rob the soil, it is not too much to expect that almost all the known Lilies can be successfully cultivated in a very limited space, year after year. The care and time bestowed upon these most beautiful of hardy flowers will be amply repaid by the abundance and richness of bloom and, eventually, by the increase of bulbs. Passaic NJ, E. O. Orpet.

16 October 1889
Notes on Hardy Plants
The present season has been noticeable for the abundance of moisture and the total immunity, thus far, from frost, conditions, taken on the whole, very favorable for the strong growth and flowering of hardy plants. Anemone Japonica and its varieties have never made so fine a display as that of the past weeks, the pure white form, Honorine Joubert, being most beautiful in its snowy-white petals and conspicuous yellow anthers. The pink form, known as Hybrida, is of a lovely shade of bright pink, a most suitable companion plant to the white one. It appears that the proper name of this hybrid Anemone is Elegans, but in the trade lists this name is very seldom used. We are also growing what is known as the type A. Japonica, and, if this is correctly named, it is singular how much more robust and beautiful the varieties are than the parent plant. The flowers of the latter are semi-double and of a dark rosy-carmine, a pretty color enough, but the plant sadly lacks the constitutional vigor so characteristic of the other two varieties. Of Kniphofias (since the generic name, Tritoma, is doomed to slow death), K. grandis has proved itself worthy of the name by its majestic autumnal beauty. These plants have shown to better advantage this year than ever before. K. grandis is now bearing numerous grand flower-spikes five feet high; and its bright red and yellow flowers make it the most showy plant in the garden. It is the best of the tall-growing kinds, and is the more valuable on account of its late flowering habit. This plant has always been known as Tritoma grandis, but it appears that we must hereafter call it Kniphofia aloides maxima. K. carnosa is a pretty, remarkable and distinct species; pretty, in that its flower-spikes do not exceed eighteen inches and are most useful for cutting purposes; remarkable in its flowers, which, unlike all other species that have come under our notice, commence to open at the apex of the spike and continue to flower downward; and lastly, distinct in being a native of Abyssinia, while most of this genus hail from South Africa, and also in being strictly deciduous, the foliage dying down in the fall to a thick, fleshy rootstock, which should then be lifted and potted, and given plenty of heat in spring to induce it to start early. When nicely started it should be planted out in a warm position in good rich soil. Treated in this manner, its liability to be damaged by early frosts is considerably lessened. It is singular that, with all our care and solicitude, we have never been able to obtain a single seed of this plant. All other kinds seed freely with us, and prove only too susceptible to hybridization. We are hoping for good results from the use of pollen of K. carnosa on species of the evergreen section. Passaic NJ, E. O. Orpet

23 October 1889
Primula cortusoides Sieboldii
P. Sieboldii is one of the brightest colored species, and in this respect stands unrivaled among hardy Primroses. Our first acquaintance with this plant was made when it was grown in pots for decorating the conservatory, and very suitable it is for that purpose, but now that there is no question of its hardiness, and plants are easily procured, one can muster up courage enough to plant them out in the open ground. Care should be taken when selecting a place for the plants, to choose a half shady position where the rays of the sun during the hottest part of the day may not strike them, as in this climate few Primulas can endure complete exposure to the sun. It is well to bear in mind also that this variety is seen to the best advantage when associated with others of the genus, such as Primnroses, Polyanthus and Auriculas, and in this way P. Sieboldii shines conspicuously bright, and its large flowers of deep rose, over an inch across, borne on many flowered stems just above the foliage, cannot be surpassed for their pleasing effect in early spring. The foliage dies off completely in fall, and this is the proper time to transplant. It should be borne in mind that this species is strictly surface rooting; consequently the roots should be only slightly covered with soil, and should then receive a top dressing of well decomposed manure. This may be removed in spring, just as the plants begin to show signs of starting, as all the nutriment will have been appropriated by the soil; and as a protection the manure is no longer needed. With us Siebold's Primrose bears seed freely, and if this is sown when ripe it soon germinates, and in twelve months makes flowering plants. We have now a fine collection for flowering next spring. Florists have already been at work on this plant, but the progress made toward improved varieties has not been remarkable. The type still holds its own against all the seedling sorts, although some of these are pretty enough and well worth growing. Amongst them are two white varieties, Intermedia Alba and Grandiflora Alba. These have the merit of being very distinct. Amongst others we have tried are Ruby, Laciniata, Lilacina, Clarkaeflora and Purple Queen, the varietal names of which are sufficiently descriptive. They are the best of some twelve or more varieties usually seen in trade lists. Passaic NJ, E. O. Orpet.

6 November 1889
Dicentra eximia
Last spring we took occasion to call attention to this plant as one of the best of recent additions to the list of native plants, suitable and desirable for cultivation. After the second season's trial of it we cannot forbear to mention the fact that from the first week in May to the last week in October Dicentra eximia has been constantly in flower. Moreover, the odor so apparent in D. spectabilis and other varieties of the Fumariaceae, is totally absent in the plant under note. The figure of D. eximia, given in the " Dictionary of Gardening," is not a good representation of the plant, as it is with us. This may be accounted for on the supposition that the difference in climate affects the appearance of the plant, or that our plant is a geographical form of the plant commonly grown elsewhere under the name of D. eximia. Our original plant came from Tennessee, where it is by no means common in a wild state. There, however, it seeds freely, whereas here it rarely produces a seed vessel, owing probably to the absence of the necessary insect agency. The flowers are closed at the apex, and the bees here, when forcing an entrance, injure the organs of reproduction to such an extent as to preclude the possibility of successful fertilization. D. eximia must therefore be propagated mainly by division, and this is easily accomplished early in spring before the growth is far advanced. It may also be added that when seed is produced it must be sown at once, and then germination will take place the following spring. Seeds of plants included in the order Fumariaceae are notoriously long in germinating. Passaic NJ E. O. Orpet.

20 November 1889
The Flower-Garden in Autumn
The time to protect the flower borders has now arrived, and preparation should at once be made for this work before the advent of severe frost, for although this may be delayed for some weeks, yet everything should be ready for it. We often observe elaborate directions about "cleaning up," but some gardeners carry their worship of the idol of cleanliness too far. We should never forget the necessity of leaving on the plants just that natural form of protection which they duly provide for themselves-that is, dead leaves and flower stalks. An example or two will illustrate my meaning, and the rest can be left to the judgement. Many gardeners, for the sake of appearance, in fall cut off all ripened foliage from such plants as Iris laevigata. Now, we have proved to our satisfaction that this is highly injurious, as frost and melted snow make use of the opportunity to get down into the very hearts of the plants, and the inevitable result is that next season one waits in vain for the reappearance in their accustomed vigor of the young shoots, and when they do come they are liable during the earlier stages of their growth to be injured by late spring frosts if deprived of their natural protection. Eulalia Japonica, and its varieties, are plants that are generally regarded as of doubtful hardiness, and we confess to having lifted them every fall during the past two seasons. However, we have taken notice of a large circular bed of this Grass at a neighboring railroad-station which thrives amazingly year after year, by no means on account of the attention given to it, but simply because it is left alone until the time for tidying up in spring, and then the tops are cut off. Meanwhile some of our own plants, left out, with their tops cut off and carefully covered with soil, were completely killed, not one surviving. Another instance of mistaken zeal is the removal of the dead flowering stems of Lilies. These, of all other plants, are susceptible to injury from moisture in winter, and when the stems are removed an excellent passage for water is made straight to the centre of the bulbs, and decay is the inevitable result. Nature has tried to enforce this lesson upon us by the tenacity with which the perfectly lifeless stems cling to the living bulbs until the young shoots are prepared to take their place in spring, after which the old stems are easily removed. Many other instances might be cited, but the judgment of the cultivator may be relied upon to furnish them for himself. The object in view while writing this is to point out that, while "cleanliness is next to godliness," it is by no means the best practice to remove every vestige of dead leaves and flower stems from the flower-garden while protecting the flowers against the ravages of a winter's frost. Passaic NJ, E. O. Orpet.

22 January 1890
Perennials from Seed I
There seems to be some doubt among amateurs as to the feasibility of raising hardy plants from seed, and, judging from advice given in some horticultural papers, it would appear that this, the most natural method of increasing one's stock of perennials, was but indifferently understood. When it is taken into consideration that seed is the medium which Nature has provided, and by means of which nearly all plants naturally spread and perpetuate their species, it only remains to take into consideration the surroundings in which the plants are found, such as climate and position, to enable even the uninitiated to succeed in raising these plants from seed. To American cultivators the one great difficulty encountered at the outset is the means of obtaining good and fresh seed of plants of this description, as there does not appear to be any one yet who has taken up this branch of business and made a specialty of it; for, as a rule, none but the commoner kinds are catalogued, and these are easily and cheaply purchased, while the more rare and expensive kinds are no more difficult to raise from seed, and a good, thrifty plant raised in this way is far more likely to become established than a miffy or minute imported plant. Nothing is more certain, however, than that when the demand comes, the supply will be equal to it.
During the past two months we have sowed over 400 kinds of seed, many of them being seeds of plants which cannot be obtained in any other way. Of those sown about one-fourth have yet to germinate, and this is just about the percentage of perennials which do not come as easily from seed as annuals. With these even it is only a question of time and careful attention in the matter of watering in some cases, while with such as are indigenous to alpine regions, judicious freezing is needed to bring about germination with the advent of spring sunshine. Of those plants whose seeds are usually long in germination, a large number are included among the Ranunculaceae, such as Trollius, most of the awned Anemones and Clematis. In the same list belong species of Iris, which have round seeds, Dictarnnus, Alstromerias, most Liliaceous plants, and some of the Fumariaceae, as Corydalis and Dicentra. This rule, covering certain families, is by no means a hard and fast one, as for instance, we sowed seed of the pretty Algerian Ranunculus bullatus, and it germinated in a week, while the seeds of R. Lyallii, probably the finest of the genus, which we have recently received from New Zealand, may require two years before they appear from the time of sowing. At least this time was required in the only instance of which one can find record where these plants were raised from seed. This is an exceptional case, of course. We name the above kinds as extreme cases, so that there need be no disappointment at delay. The best time to sow seeds of perennials, when it is intended to do so on a large scale, and where a good, light structure and fire heat are at disposal, is, without doubt, as soon as good, fresh seed can be purchased from the growers, or, in other words, any time during the winter or early spring months.
There is a two-fold advantage in sowing as early as possible, in that it not only enables one to devote the necessary attention to the young seedling plants at the proper time and when out-door work is at a standstill, but also that the plants may be strongly established in pots when the time arrives for transferring these to their permanent quarters in the open ground, where many of them will flower the first year, or within twelve monlths from the time of sowing. We are aware that it is usually thought best to sow seed of all kinds in spring, when increased light and sunshine may be relied on to accelerate growth, and this is so when one has not control over the conditions necessary to ensure germination and a subsequent continuation of growth, as in a well-heated house. Should a hot-bed or cold frame be the only facilities at command, the success need not necessarily be less, but sowing must be deferred until the departure of frost. On sowing in the open ground we cannot speak favorably, owing to the trying influence of long continued drought and heavy thunder-storms. O. Passaic NJ

29 January 1890
Perennials From Seed II
The compost which is found suitable for all kinds of perennial plants is a mixture of loam and well decomposed leaf mould, in equal quantities, with the addition of a shovelful of charcoal dust to the bushel of soil. Should the loam be of a clayey nature, a shovel full of sand should be added. The influence of the charcoal is purely mechanical, but the benefits derived from its use cannot be overestinated. Before using it, we often found that, during a period of dull weather, the young seedling plants damped off in quantities, causing serious loss and disappointment. The charcoal has obviated this, but it necessitates a more frequent use of the watering pot. Before using, the soil should be passed through a quarter-inch sieve and thoroughly mixed, keeping a sharp look out for worms, which make trouble in the seed-pan. The soil, when in fit condition for use should by no means be dry, but it should not be so wet that any portion of it adheres to the hands. We use shallow seed-pans of two sizes, the smaller being four inches wide and two deep; the larger, seven inches wide and two and a half deep. Pans are preferable to boxes, unless the latter be new, as in old wood there is always a tendency to fungoid growth. The pans should be filled with soil to within a fourth of an inch of the top, and this should be made moderately firm and smooth with the bottom of another pan. The seed may then be sown evenly and covered with soil sifted through a fine sieve made of wire mosquito-netting. The soil left in the sieve should be used in the bottom of the next pan as drainage. Care must be taken not to cover the seeds too deeply; if they are barely hidden the covering will suffice. Many people advocate sowing small seeds without any covering. This necessitates shading from the sun, and if the seed be not quick to germinate, a mossy growth often covers the surface, through which it is difficult for small seeds to penetrate. Should this growth appear on the surface of the soil it may be smothered by sprinkling sand on it. When seeds are sown the soil that covers them should on no account be pressed, as this renders germination very difficult with many kinds of plants, especially those that have small seeds. The pans should be watered as soon as sown, and after this must never become quite dry, neither must the pans be filled so full that the seeds can be washed out. Pots may be used in the absence of pans, but pots must be filled half their depth swith broken crocks as drainage. Under the above treatment the majority of perennial plants may be raised from seed in a period varying from a week to two months, but, as has been already stated, many kinds are naturally slow to germinate, and the pans containing these may, during summer, be plunged in sand in a cold frame. When treated thus, less water will be required, and the soil will not become sour. Passaic NJ, E. O. Orpet.

12 February 1890
Perennial Pyrethrums
here are few hardy plants that have lent themselves so kindly to the skillful manipulation of the florist and been so obviously improved thereby as the parent of this useful race of hardy plants, Pyrethrum roseum. Indeed it is a mystery how, from this, the original species, a pretty thing in itself, much resembling a rose-colored Ox-eye Daisy, such beautiful varieties have been obtained, notably the one with large, double white flowers with not a tinge of color to mar their snowy purity and others of the brightest crimson and all the various shades between the two. Their cultivation is extremely simple, as it is only necessary to plant them in good soil well enriched and leave them alone, to become possessed of fine strong clumps, and it is from these that good and satisfactory results may be anticipated. The flowering period of these Pyrethrums extends over the whole of the summer season, and this is a trait worthy of special notice when one considers the durability of the flowers in a cut state. When it is desired to increase the stock of plants none but strong clumps should be selected for this purpose, and the operation is best'performed in spring, as early as possible, when the plants may-be taken up, care being taken to secure roots to each portion of the plant. These may then be replanted and the operation will prove beneficial if carefull performed. Pyrethrums may also be easily raised from seed if it is fresh and of a good' strain, such as sent out by the large European seed-growers. All of the plants. will not produce double flowers, still the single ones are exceedingly pretty and useful,, and: indeed some growers are making a specialty. of single varieties. Some of the older double varieties named below are. still. as. good as any that can be -found either in catalogues or gardens.. The, two. best white varieties are Mount Blanc and White Aster, while Captain Nares, Emilie Lemoine and Progress. are among the best reds; and Ne plus ultra, Iveryana, Dr. Livingstone and La Vestal are all good shades of pink and lilac; J. N. Swerdy is a brilliant red and good. All of these we have grown and find them as good as the best. Each year adds new kinds to the already long list. Passaic, N.J. 0.

12 February 1890
Perennials from Seed III
After the seeds have germinated and are large enough to handle - that is, when there are at least two fully developed leaves besides the seed-leaves - the time has arrived for transplanting or pricking out into boxes or pots. This is a critical period in the life of the plant, and inattention then often results in a weak or spindly growth, which necessitates weeks of nursing and care to strengthen and enable it to stand the hot sun sufficiently to bear planting out permanently. This is especially true when, as sometimes happens, the seeds come up thickly in the pan. If the rougher portion of the soil has been used as drainage to the seed-pan, the young plants can be separated easily without injury to a single root, but when moss or leaves are used there is great difficulty in disentangling the roots, and the young seedlings receive a severe check. Three-inch pots are the most suitable size if the plants are of strong, robust habit, such as Delphinium, Coreopsis, Hollyhock, Papaver and Lathyrus. In pots of this size the young plants will grow strong and form a mass of roots that will defy any period of dry weather that may ensue if they are well watered before planting. The best soil is two-thirds good loam and one-third leaf-mould. Should the plants be naturally tender-rooted, it is best to place them at the side of the pot instead of in the centre, for the young roots love to feel the side of the pot, and when they find the way around it is the time when the plant seems to enjoy life the most. For all small, dwarf-growing plants of alpine character two-inch pots are large enough. After potting, the young plants will need careful watering, although water should never be given until they really need it, and during bright sunshine a sheet of newspaper should be thrown over them until they have become well established. The temperature should be the same as that in which the seeds were raised - fifty-five to sixty degrees by day and fifty by night - until the plants have filled the pots with roots, when they may be kept cooler and gradually hardened off.
The final planting out may be done as soon as possible after the departure of frost and when the soil is in good working order. Their permanent places should be determined beforehand, and the soil made rich with fine manure. Where large collections of hardy plants are grown it is always found best to set apart a piece of ground, away from the flower-garden proper, for use as a reserve ground or nursery, where seedlings can be cared for until they reach their normal size and strength. From this they may be moved to any desired situation without any fear as to their ultimate success. This is a plan that should be adopted by all who can spare the space, for gaps are sure to occur in the borders every season, and one has only to turn to the reserve ground to fill them all up, and if a friend wishes to exchange a young thrifty plant is always available for that purpose. Should any new or rare plants be received, and they are planted among established plants, the food provided for their nourishment is speedily devoured by their hungry neighbors, whereas if nursed by themselves, with others newly planted, all have an equal chance. The reserve ground will be found useful, too, when cut flowers are wanted, and this saves the border from depletion. When planting we make a trench with the spade, put manure in the bottom, and cover with an inch or so of soil. Then we place the plant against the side of the trench, and if the roots have not been confined in a pot we spread them out and cover first with the finer soil, and when sufficient soil is in, press sidewise with the foot until it is firm. When the roots start they will be attracted downward by the manure, where they will remain out of the reach of harm from dry weather or other trying climatic conditions. When the plants have balls of soil attached to the roots they may be planted in the same way, but care should be taken that the balls of soil are not broken. When treated as we have advised hardy perennials may be raised from seed as easily as annuals, and there is no reason why they should not be grown in every garden. Passaic NJ, E. O. Orpet.

19 February 1890
Lachenalia Nelsoni
The admirers of hardy plants owe a debt of gratitude to the late Rev. J. Nelson for the valuable garden varieties of the common Moss Pink (Phlox subulata), which were originated by his skill, and have proved so valuable in the spring garden. Many other admirable hybrids were produced by this enthusiastic amateur, and among them the one named at the head of this paragraph. Of all the Lachenalias we have tried this is best adapted to general use. The flowers are bright coral-red in bud, and golden yellow when expanded; they are borne on stems six to eight inches long just above the foliage, which is prettily mottled with brown. The value of Lachenalias as winter-blooming plants lies in the durability of their flowers, which last in good condition for nearly two months. Nothing is more simple than the culture of these bulbs. They should be potted in September, three in a four-inch pot, and in winter kept in a light place, where the temperature does not fall lower than forty-five degrees; they will then flower in January and February. After flowering the foliage soon dies down, when the bulbs require no water until potted again in September. There is no reason why these plants should not become popular for window-culture, as the conditions necessary to the successful flowering of a Geranium in winter suits Lachenalia Nelsoni admirably, both, in fact, being the offspring of plants native to South Africa. Passaic NJ, E. O. Orpet.

12 March 1890
Doronicums
Mr. John Thorpe has done well to call attention to these desirable plants for winter blooming. Some twelve months ago I wrote of the value of D. Caucasicum for cutting purposes, and to this should be added D. plantagineum excelsum, the flowers of which are often four inches in diameter. Our plants have flowered for the past two months in a house where frost was excluded. In cases where this cool treatment is given the plants do not seem to suffer in any way when planted out in spring, but flower right on through the early summer months if placed in a rich, moist soil. With us D. Clusii is not a success, owing to its provoking habit of rotting in the centre, by which the plant is often completely destroyed. This has been our experience during the past two years with D. Clusii, both in-doors and in the open ground.
Dianthus latifolius
There are not many perennial Dianthuses that will flower in four months from sowing the seed, but we sowed a packet of seed of D. latifolius about the end of September and the plants began to flower early in the new year. In habit this Dianthus resembles the Sweet William (D. barbatus), but the foliage is much broader, and the flowers are an inch across and are produced in clusters on long stems, so that they are very useful for cutting purposes, especially so since the unopened buds expand in water. We know of no Dianthus with flowers of such a brilliant, rich crimson as those of D. latifolius. It is a desirable plant where winter flowers are required in quantity. Passaic NJ, E. O. Orpet.

26 March 1890
Iris Susiana
Of the numerous species of Iris now in cultivation, none are more beautiful than this. Exquisitely delicate is the penciling of the petals, the inner three of which, usually known as standards, are of such a size as to place this species among the largest of the genus, a well developed flower measuring seven inches across. The three outer and lower petals, or falls, are partly clothed with a dense beard, and have a dark brown blotch in the centre of each. This plant is by no means a new one, having been among those cultivated by Gerard and figured in his Herbal three centuries ago. Iris Susiana is a native of Mesopotamia and Syria, and it is unfortunately too seldom met with in flower under cultivation. This is probably because its peculiar habits and requirements are not sufficiently understood.. Iberica much resembles I. Susiana in this respect, and both belong to a division of the sub-genus Euiris, known as Oncocyclls, so that their botanical and cultural affinity is well marked, and we find them both to succeed well under the same treatment. These Irises are usually imported in autumn in a dried state, together with other flower-roots, and when received they should be potted up in a sandy compost and placed in a cool house or frame, where they will commence to grow at once, and continue to do so through the winter until their flowering season, which is in early spring. They rarely flower, however, the first year. When the weather will permit the plants may be transferred to a well drained soil in the border. In June the leaves die down, and the plants rest until September. During this period of rest English growers place a hand-light over the plants to ripen them by artificial drought. This is not necessary here, owing to the greater amount of sun-heat to which they are naturally subjected. In September growth begins and continues throughout the winter if the plants be lifted in fall, potted and placed in a cool house; and then flowers may be expected in March. It must not be inferred from this that these Irises are not hardy, for we have flowered them in the open ground and expect to do so again. But when their beauty and the simplicity of their culture is considered, it is not too much to ask for them pot-room in a cool house, where they will present a welcome relief to the monotony of Calceolarias and Cinerarias in the spring months. Passaic NJ, E. O. Orpet.

2 April 1890
Heuchera sanguinea
I am pleased to be able to record the hardiness of this plant during the past winter, having left one out without the slightest protection as a test plant. It may be said that the last was not fairly a test winter; but with such plants as are evergreen and have their growing parts all above ground, as in Heuchera sanguinea, the fluctuations of temperature are more injurious than a continued period of severe Weather, for under the one the plants are often incited into premature growth, and thus more easily killed, while during protracted severe weather the usual accompaniment of a coat of snow is the best possible protection against both sun and frost.
Aubrietia Leichtlini
This new Aubrietia is now flowering with us for the first time, and if proof were necessary of its value as a garden plant other than that contained in the specific name the plant bears, it will be found in the decided bright rose color of the flowers. As is well known, all other Aubrietias have flowers of various shades of violet-blue, and their value as spring decorative plants for association with such plants as the varieties of the Moss Pink for spring effect cannot be overestimated. Aubrietias supply the one tint lacking in the many varieties of Phlox subulata. They are easily raised from seed; but if it is desired to perpetuate any particular variety, this must be done by division and cuttings in fall, as seedling plants vary considerably, especially where more than one variety is cultivated; so, taking into consideration this fact, it is safe to advise that A. Leichtlini be propagated by division. We once had a white Aubrietia under cultivation; but soon discarded it, owing to the insignificance of its flowers, which were no better than those of the common Chickweed. Passaic HJ, O

16 April 1890
Pentstemons for the Garden
The genus Pentstemon is an extensive, and, with one exception, a peculiarly North American one, many species being desirable plants for the hardy-flower border, while others are showy but not hardy here in the Eastern States, and others again are of botanical interest only. One of the great charms of the English flower border in the summer months is the beautiful race of florists' varieties of Pentstemons, and it is much to be regretted that these are not suitable for cultivation here, being too tender to withstand our winters. This is, also, unfortunately true of some of the best western species. Pentstemons seem to thrive best in a light, rich soil, in the open border, and in such a position all are perennial. P. grandiflorus is one of the showiest we have grown. It has spikes of pretty bluish lilac flowers and grows about two feet high. It has glaucous foliage, seeds freely, and self-sown plants produce better flowers than old ones. There is a variety of P. grandiflorus with dark purple flowers which is distinct and desirable. It seems constant, having come true from seed, and bids fair to be a popular plant. P. Cobaea has, perhaps, larger flowers than the last, and these bear a striking resemblance to the old Cobaea Scandens of greenhouses, with its purple, white striped flowers. The variety of P. Cobaea known as Purpurea has much darker flowers and is quite distinct. This may also be easily raised from seed. P. ovalus is a species with pretty bright blue flowers, which change to purple, and though in this species the flowers are smaller than in those named above, they are much more abundant. This plant is best propagated by cuttings taken in fall and wintered in pots in a cold frame. P. diffusus is a species of dwarf branching habit and pretty blue flowers borne in great abundance. This plant is liable to be injured in severe winters, but does well with a little protection. P. fruinosus is a rare species also of branching habit and bright blue flowers on stems two feet high. These two last species are also best propagated from cuttings. P. barbatus, var., is one of Torreyi, the best known in gardens and deservedly so. Its tall panicles of brilliant scarlet flowers often grow five feet high, and last in bloom all through summer. It is easily propagated by division. P. lacevigatus, var. Digitalis, is a good garden plarnt with showy spikes of white flowers which last a long time in bloom. This plant has a more eastern range than any of the preceding, and has a robust constitution. There are many other fine species of Pentstemon which would be desirable acquisitions to gardens if they would prove hardy, and of these may be mentioned P. Harlwegi, P. Eatoni, P. centranthifolius, P. spectabilis and P. puniceus, the two last being among Dr. Thurber's discoveries. We should be glad to hear of living plants of these last. Passaic NJ, E. O. Orpet.

23 April 1890
Hardy Plants for Cut Flowers I
Flowers for home decoration are now in universal demand, and this is one of the uses to which hardy perennial plants are specially adapted, because their requirements are few and they can be successfully cultivated by any one who canl command a plot of ground. Of the thousands of perennial plants in cultivation, many whose flowers are beautiful, fragrant and durable when cut can be found adapted to any American garden, whatever may be its situation. It is now established beyond question that a selection of plants for the open border can be made to yield flowers in variety and profusion for nine months in the year, or from March until December.
Among the earliest of hardy subjects, the bulbous section take first rank. Such harbingers of spring as Squills, Chionodoxas and Crocus cannot be considered useful for cutting and it is on the numerous family of Narcissus that we most rely for the first really useful cut flowers. When Easter occurs well on in the season, as in the past two years, Narcissuses are always plentiful in the open air with us and can be relied upon for an abundance of flowers when they have become well established, which is usually the second year after planting. The varieties of Narcissus are numerous and naturally perplexing to the beginner, who is chiefly interested to know which are a few of the best kinds that will produce the longest succession of bloom. Out of a large collection, Golden Spur, one of the newer kinds, is always the first to bloom, followed a day or two later by N. princeps, a noble kind, and then comes Sir Watkin, the Giant Welsh Chalice-flower "with foliage like leeks," as Mr. Burbidge once observed when showing me his fine collection in Trinity College Gardens, Dublin. N. bicolor Horsfieldi then follows, and is at once the most distinct and beautiful variety in cultivation. The Jonquils should be added for their fragrance, and lastly, the beautiful Poet's Narcissus and its varieties. Thus it will be seen that some half dozen kinds, lasting over as many weeks, are to be relied on as perfectly hardy and vigorous, and are sufficient to form the nucleus of a collection that may be added to as opportunity occurs. It should be remarked that Narcissuses succeed well in shady places under trees, and may be used with charming effect for naturalizing among grass, many an English meadow being at the present time literally a garden of Daffodils.
American cultivators need not trouble themselves about the necessity of lifting the bulbs annually after they have flowered, although this is practiced and preached by some of the best English growers. We have always found that the greater extremes of drought and solar heat experienced here at the resting period of the bulbs will be found sufficient for ripening them, and that lifting them, besides the labor incurred, only produces artificial conditions which are unnecessary and too often detrimental. Passaic NJ, E. O. Orpet.

30 April 1890
Hardy Plants for Cut Flowers II
A most useful spring-flowering plant is Trillium grandiforum, the best of the genus, owing to the size of its flowers and their pure white color when first opened; this, however, turns to purple with age. T. ovaturn and T. stylosum are both good, and also white. Trilliums usually appear to the best advantage when well established, and this is usually the second or third year after planting. They thrive best in a shady position, and a virtue may be made of necessity by planting them under trees where other things would not succeed. For naturalizing in such places Trilliums are invaluable. If the growing of hardy plants under glass were advisable, Trilliums might be so treated and flowered a month earlier, as is often practiced in England. But, as a rule, plants that are thoroughly hardy are more enjoyable when flowering at their own sweet will than when forced into attenuated and premature bloom under glass.
Doronicums have lately come into favor for cut flowers, and justly so. They are not only well adapted to this purpose, but they rank among the choicest of early summer border-flowers. We have tried five species and varieties, all of which are perfectly hardy. D. Caucasicum, D9. plantagineum excelsum, and, where it will thrive, D. Clusii, are three of the best sorts. Of the variety Harpur Crewe we have had no personal experience. Regarding the culture of Doronicums, one thing should be borne in mind - they do not like any soil other than that of a retentive nature, and this was noticeable even in a summer like the last.
With the first appearance in April of its elegantly cut foliage, Dicentra eximia commences to bear deep rose-colored, nodding flowers on stems a foot long, which may be gathered from April to the end of October. D. eximia is a native of the southern Alleghanies, but it is perfectly hardy, and without the disagreeable odor so noticeable in others of the genus. There are few other hardy plants that flower continuously six months of the year. Helenium Hoopesii, another native plant and a composite, is a showy and useful borderplant, not so well known as it should be. H. Hoopesii grows two feet high, and bears numerous bright orange, daisy-like flowers in early summer; its culture is of the simplest; any ordinary border-soil will suit it. Daphne Cneorum, though not a herbaceous plant, is usually included among collections of such, and certain it is that there are few plants so worthy of being in every garden, both for the fragrance of its blossoms and the freedom with which they are produced nearly all summer. We have noticed, however, that this Daphne is a trifle more exacting than many other plants as to the soil it is to be grown in. We are told that it is indigenous to southern Europe among rocks, in gravelly soil with plenty of humus, and it will be found that if, when planting Daphne Cneorum, this is borne in mind, and anything approaching a heavy, wet soil avoided, the plants will grow rapidly with no further attention, and yield abundantly its delicate pink blossoms. The Trollius, or Globe-flowers, resemble gigantic Buttercups, and flower in the early days of summer. T. laxus is common in wet meadows in the Eastern States, and is well deserving of cultivation. The sepals of this and the nextspecies are concave, forming a kind of globe, hence the common name. T. Europaeus grows a little taller than the last, and is usually eighteen inches to two feet high, and has very large yellow flowers. T. Japonicus has bright orange colored flowers, and is a distinct species. The above three form a pretty group in a moist soil in the open border. We have found that Trollius-seed sown under glass, and carefully protected, does not germinate in two years. The next seed was sown when gathered, and was well frozen in a frame in winter, and it germinated promptly with the coming of warmn spring weather. These remarks apply to many other seeds, such as those of Anthericum Liliastrum, Gentiana acaulis, Gillenia stipulacea and Allium Karataviense. Passaic NJ, E. O. Orpet.

5 November 1890
Autumn Crocuses
The Colchicums, usually known under this name, are too rarely seen in cultivation, as I was recently reminded by seeing in a Massachusetts garden beautiful clumps of the pure white variety of C. autumnale, covered with dense masses of snowy flowers. C. autumnale itself is of a pretty pale lilac purple, and contrasts well with the pure white variety. These plants are also known as Meadow Saffrons, owing to the fact that the anthers of the flowers of C. sativus furnish the Saffron of commerce. The roots also (which would appear at first sight to be bulbs, but are really corms), together with the seeds when dried, produce the drug known as Colchicum, which, though very poisonous, is a valuable medicine. C. autumnale is common in some Darts of Britain. I well remember seeing it covering acres of meadow land with a pretty purple tinge in the autumn months, but it is probably exterminated there in that locality now, for an enterprising local firm were busy collecting the corms. Besides the two single-flowered forms of C. autumnale above noted, there are also double forms of both which are very beautiful, but also rare and seldom seen in catalogues, at least in America, where, indeed, it is not an easy matter to find Colchicums, for though I obtained not long ago a dozen bulbs of what were supposed to be the type, half of them proved to be white flowered. C. speciosum is a very fine species, but so far as I can learn no one seemns to have succeeded with it here in the eastern states. This plant is nmuch larger than those already named, and of a crimson-purple color; it is, in fact, the largest of a very beautiful genus. I have never yet seen it in the bulb lists, so it is hard to find out whether it is possible to grow it or not. All the varieties of C. autumnale thrive well in a good, well drained soil, but should the soil be of a retentive nature they would require a liberal addition of sand. They would thrive admirably on rock-work, where they could push through other plants of a prostrate habit, for the Colchicums flower in fall; the leaves appear in spring, and about midsummer die off and the roots have a season of rest. Imported roots usually commence to flower on the voyage, and the flowers are very liable to get bruised. This, however, will only affect this season's flower; and they will probably start away all the stronger in spring for having been relieved from producing and maturing the quantity of flowers that each root produces when established. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

7 January 1891
The Pompone Lily
Of the long list of Lilies in cultivation there are but few that are really hardy and reliable for out-door cultivation here in the eastern states, and of those that are satisfactory the greater portion are late-fall blooming kinds. It is also true that the early summer flowering Lilies are fewer still in number and may be easily counted. L. pomponium is one of the most reliable of Lilies; it is perfectly hardy in a well-drained, porous soil; the flowering period is June; the color of the flowers is similar to that of L. tenuifolium, the Siberian Lily-that is, bright scarlet, with just a tinge of orange-but, while L. tenuifolium rarely has more than one flower to the stem and is a most difficult bulb to keep, L. pomponium grows three feet high and often has from twenty to thirty flowers to a stem, and these are very fragrant. L. pomponium is a native of northern Italy and southern France, but, as before stated, is perfectly hardy. This Lily is often catalogued as L. pomponium verum to distinguish it from L. pomponium aureum of Dutch growers, which is very similar to it, but has yellow flowers. These flowers are also fragrant, and the plant has much larger bulbs, which are generally difficult to keep. This Lily is known to botanists as L. Pyrenaicum, a native of the Pyrenees, and is quite a different plant from the one under notice. It should, perhaps, be added that, after flowering, L. pomponium dies down about the end of July, to reappear early the next spring.
While on the subject of early-flowering Lilies, one cannot refrain from saying a word in favor of L. Hansoni, a beautiful Japan species, named after an enthusiastic American cultivator of Lilies with whom this species first flowered. Descriptions of the flower of this Lily differ as to color; we, however, have always found it to be of a bright yellow, with dull purple spots. Its petals are remarkably thick in texture, which makes the flowers very lasting. This Lily also is perfectly hardy and of easy cultivation, and when grown well often attains a height of four to five feet, the leaves being disposed in dense whorls the whole length of the stem. This also is a distinct Lily, flowering in June, lasting long in bloom, and a plant with which we have never had any difficulty in cultivating. On the contrary, the bulbs increase rapidly when established. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

14 January 1891
Anchusa Italica
The Italian Alkanet, as it is called, is a member of the Borage family, and is also known as Anchusa azurea and A. paniculata, both of which names are descriptively correct, as the flowers are borne on tall panicled stems and are of a bright shade of blue. If we except the Larkspurs there are few hardy plants that possess this peculiar shade of blue; and, as the plant under consideration flowers in early summer and lasts long in perfection, its value is considerable, as it is quite hardy and also a true perennial. The Anchusas are among the easiest of perennials to raise from seeds, for these germinate as readily as those of most annuals, and as seeds are freely produced it is obviously the best means of propagation. There are several other Anchusas, but our own experience is limited to the above and to A. Capensis. This last species is said to be a tender biennial; but we have found it perfectly hardy in that the abundant seeds, produced rapidly, germinate around the parent plant, survive the winter and flower the following season in profusion for three months. The flowers, however, are small in comparison with those of A. Italica. It is a well known fact that bees are partial to many Boraginaceous plants, and to the genus Anchusa in particular. A. Capensis is eminently suitable for sowing in places where it can be left alone to take care of itself, as in a wild garden. The Alkanet of commerce, a deep red dye, is the product of A. tinctoria, a dwarf species of spreading habit. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

21 January 1891
Clematis paniculata
In urging the advantage of grafting as a mneans of propagating this plant it ought to be said that the stock used is merely a vehicle to carry the scion during the infancy of the plant. When grafted plants are set out care should always be taken to place the point of union beneath the soil, and an examination at the end of the first season's growth will soon show that Clezmatis paniculata has thrown out a quantity of its thick, thong-like roots, and that the foreign root is already superseded and speedily becomes of little or no use to the plant. Mr. Hatfield says truly that C. paniculata varies considerably when raised from seed, and I have seen seedling forms with a distinct variegation or venation of the foliage, the centre of the leaves being distinctly marked with blotches of a lighter green. And yet it is difficult to imagine anything more beautiful than the typical plant as a perfectly hardy climber. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

11 February 1891
Seed-Sowing
Work among hardy plants is now entirely suspended in the colder sections, but when the season reopens there will be many other things that will need attention at the same time, and, therefore, there is no better time than the present to arrange for the coming year's display. There is also no better time than the present to sow seeds of hardy perennials if one has the convenience of a heated house or a cold frame. We have found that many seeds of this class of plants are greatly benefited by a steady but thorough freezing. It seems to matter little whether the freezing period be long or short, provided it is steadily maintained for the time being. Seeds of the new Aquilegia Stuarti were sown last October in separate pots, the one being kept in the greenhouse and the other placed in a cold frame and frozen. The seeds in the former have germinated but sparingly, while apparently every one in the latter has germinated. The plant in question claims close relationship with A. glandulosa, and this is what suggested the experiment, it being well known that freezing is necessary to obtain the best results with that species. Aquilegia Stuarti is, however, said to be the finest Columbine in cultivation by the most competent authority. Many of the Columbines are benefited by the above treatment, while others will germinate readily if placed in heat at once. The more one has to do with this most fascinating part of gardening, seed-sowing, the more there seems to be to learn; and I repeat that if it is intended to raise perennials the coming season sow the seed at once, and place all in a cold frame for a week or two, and, if desired, they can later on be placed in heat, and time may thus be gained, or they may be left to germinate with the spring sunshine in the frame. It is a good plan to sow the seeds, if obtainable, in the fall, and this gives the opportunity to handle the young seedlings during the dull winter months, for when these seedlings are to be cared for later in the season, the pressure of other work often leaves them neglected, and a season's flower is sometimes missed in this way. The value of frost as an agent in helping seed to germinate is well known, but is capable of much wider application than is generally supposed. In the fall of I889 we had a quantity of seeds of Rosa rugosa, which were sown in flats as soon as ripe and these were placed in a cold frame. That winter being remarkable for its mildness the seeds showed signs of activity early in March, and on being placed in heat they came up so evenly as to raise the covering of soil with them, and thousands of fine young plants were obtained in this way, which, with two years' good growth, would be very valuable young stock, as this Rose is largely used by planters, and quantities are imported annually to meet the demand. Seed of Rosa rugosa is somewhat difficult to clean, and to separate the seeds they must be freed from their outer covering; the best way to do this is to cover the hips with water in an open vessel and allow the mass to ferment until the seeds can be easily rubbed out with the hands. The seeds will then float and the refuse will sink. If it is intended to sow them this should be done as soon as the seed is dry enough to handle and treated as above. Cleaning by fermentation is perfectly safe as long as the seed has a hard outer covering. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

18 February 1891
Perennial Gaillardias
Within the past few years Gaillardias as hardy plants have become well known among those who cultivate such plants extensively, but the decorative value of the perennial Gaillardias is not so generally appreciated as it should be. The ease with which they may be raised, and the short time required to secure an abundance of flowers, are strong points in their favor, and the various uses to which the flowers are adapted when cut, owing to their durability, is another reason why they should be widely grown. The perennial Gaillardias are the offspring of G. aristata, a North American species which is found over a wide area in the western states, and although in cultivation for a number of years, it is only recently that it has been taken in hand for development, and the results are so far most satisfactory. It is not the best way, in commencing to grow Gaillardias, to get expensive named kinds. Our first attempt at their culture was to import a dozen named varieties; the greater portion arrived dead, and those which survived were not to be compared with others obtained later from seed. To those who have not hitherto grown these plants we would say procure at once, if heat is at disposal, a packet of Gaillardia grandiflora and sow thinly in boxes, and, as soon as the young plants are large enough to handle, pot them off singly in small pots, and, when weather permits, plant them out where they are to stay, and they will flower the same season. There is a great advantage in potting the young seedlings, as their roots are very delicate and do not bear the disturbance which is unavoidable in transplanting when the young seedlings are placed in flats. Should any variety of special merit in the opinion of the cultivator occur, the particular one may easily be perpetuated by means of rootcuttings. To do this the plant must be carefully lifted, the roots preserved and placed in sand in the propagating bench, and, if not covered too deep and kept moist, they will speedily commence to grow and make plants that may be treated as young seedlings. We have always found all the perennial kinds of Gaillardia, including the variety known as G. Templeana, to come readily from seed, though the reverse has been asserted. It is just possible that seed of perennial varieties may be offered under other names than G. grandifora. This need not cause any hesitation, for the hardy kinds, under whatever name, are all derived from G. aristata, which is, so far as I know, the only hardy perennial species in cultivation, though several others are enumerated by Gray, in the " Synoptical Flora." South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

25 February 1891
Plants for Shady Places
In most gardens of any extent there are places in which it is difficult to get grass to grow - shaded spots, for example, like those under the dark shadow of evergreen trees and sometimes under trees that are deciduous. Bare, unsightly patches of this description are an eyesore until taken in hand and covered with some of the many hardy plants suitable for this purpose, and those which may be relied upon to thrive under this adverse condition, and that, too, with but little attention after the first year. One of the most useful, and, at the same time ornamental, of trailing plants we have is the Trailing Myrtle, which, as often happens with common names, is not a Myrtle at all, but a Vinca. It is also known as Periwinkle, which is the most suitable common name, being a corruption of the old Latin name, Pervinca, applied to the genus by Pliny. Of this Periwinkle or Vinca minor there are many varieties, all low, trailing, evergreen plants, with flowers that are either single or double, blue or white, as the case may he, and all well-known to every one who takes an interest in hardy plants. In addition to the varieties named there is a variegated form of Vinca minor which, to my mind, is the prettiest of all. The young growth in spring is bright yellow and green, and it is covered with starry blue flowers, which stand up above the carpet made by the previous year's growth, which with age assumes a deep olive green.
When the space to be covered is under the shade of trees very little preparation is necessary; but as the planting is for permanent effect, a good coat of manure should be dug in deeply, for it will be found that Chickweed will be troublesome the first season if the manure is placed near the surface. Weeds, however, will be choked out the second season as the Periwinkle roots descend to the richer soil. After the ground is prepared, small pieces of the Periwinkle with roots attached should be planted in rows, the plants being set a foot apart each way. Little attention besides weeding will be necessary the first year, and a neat covering will be secured, and, as the plant is evergreen, it will always be pleasing, and especially so in the spring months, when it is in flower. If it is desired to give the beds a more showy appearance it is a simple matter to place the plants a little further apart, and place between each a bulb of any of the varieties of Narcissus, such as N. poeticus, N. princeps, N. trumpet major and others that are strong and robust. But if Narcissus are planted they should be set six to eight inches deep, according to the texture of the soil; in light soils Narcissus can be safely planted eight inches deep, or even deeper. In a similar way Lily of the Valley may be interspersed among the Periwinkles if the latter be the blue-flowered variety, as the Lilies will also succeed admirably in a shady position for an indefinite period. The Wood Lilies or Trilliums of the strong-growing kinds, as T. grandiforum, T. erectum and its white variety, T. cernuum, also, though not so showy as others, with the Pacific coast species, such as T. ovatum, T. petiolatum, T. sessile and others, are all hardy, and, although not so often met with in cultivation, are equally useful for the purpose named. Numerous other spring-flowering bulbs will suggest themselves to the planter to be introduced among the setting of Periwinkle as fancy may suggest, but it is best not to attempt, under trees, any display that would be in season at any other time than the spring or early summer months for obvious reasons. Under trees the soil during the warmer season is much drier than in open cultivated ground. This would not in any way interfere with the ripening of bulbs, quite the reverse, but might seriously interfere with the success of an attempt to use other plants for a later display.
There are other plants of trailing habit which will answer in place of Vinca minor. Lysimachia Nummularia is sometimes used, but it is such a rampant grower that it often gives serious trouble to keep it within reasonable bounds. Here in Massachusetts it may often be seen as an escape from cottage gardens, monopolizing the road-side to the exclusion of grasses and other native plants. But where a vigorous growing plant is desired it might possibly be used with advantage. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

11 March 1891
Hardy Plant Novelties
The season of seed catalogues has fairly begun, and those who study this literature always find something to interest and instruct, and, probably, to perplex, them in the effort to discriminate between desirable novelties and those which are quite as well left alone. It would appear that we are to become better acquainted in future than we have been with the treasures of the New Zealand flora. One of these, Ranuncu/ts Lyallii, is now offered by several seedsrnen, and if there was but a reasonable hope that seeds of this beautiful plant would germinate easily we should soon be in possession of a good stock. R. Lyallii is known as the Shepherd's Lily in its native country, which is in the southern or colder of the two islands known as New Zealand. Some time ago I obtained fresh seeds of this plant direct from its native locality, with the date on which the seeds were collected, but at the end of two years no plants appeared, and I can only find one instance of this Ranunculus having been raised from seed, and this was by Mr. Anderson Henry, of Edinburgh, Scotland. In this place the plants came at the end of three years after sowing. The flowers of Ranuncults Lyallii are pure waxy white, four inches in diameter, while the leaves are peltate, often fifteen inches in diameter, with a many-flowered stem two to four feet high. This plant would certainly not be hardy in the colder states, but would be desirable for the cool greenhouse.
Of other New Zealand plants the Aciphyllas are also offered as new. My experience with this genus is not extensive, being confined, in fact, to A. squarresa, the Bayonet-plant, so called on account of the sharp-pointed segments of the foliage. Four years ago a single plant was received and carefully nursed indoors until early summer, when it was planted out with other things, but with the first heavy rains it rotted off at the groundlevel, and therefore it is to be presumed that until of good size the Aciphyllas would need to be grown in-doors. If this could help them to become established, it is worth trying, as their singular appearance when in flower gives them unusual interest.
Delphinium Zalil when introduced created considerable interest on account of its being the first yellow-flowered species of Larkspur cultivation. We are now offered another species with yellow flowers in D. Przewalskyanum. (The secret of pronouncing this apparently impossible name is said to be the insertion of an "i" between its first two consonants.) This species, unlike D. Zalil, is a true perennial, perfectly hardy, and a native of central Asia. Another remarkable plant, not new, but now first offered, is the beautiful Mexican Thistle, Erythrolana conspicua. True, it is only a Thistle, but, judging from the descriptions and figures received, it must possess unusual merit. We are told that it is a biennial plant, but that when treated liberally it grows four to six feet high, much branched, with large foliage crowned with flower-heads of a bright orange-carmine color. Our seed was sown at the commencement of the year, and they are now strong plants, and grow rapidly. In the warmer states this plant would be a conspicuous one for ornamental gardening, but here it would have to be protected in winter the first year, and this detracts somewhat from its value.
We are indebted to Mr. William Thompson, of Ipswich, England, for the reintroduction of Coreopsis grandiflora, of Nuttall, and though this very plant has been distributed here as C. lanceolata in almost every state, still its identity had not been determined. It has been the subject of note in previous numbers of GARDEN AND FOREST, that there were two plants called Coreopsis lanceolata in cultivation here, the one vastly superior to the other, and now the better one will be known as C. grandifora. It may be distinguished by the larger and brighter flower-heads and by the deeply pinnatifid leaves, the terminal lobe being much the largest. This, the true C. grandiflora, has a large tuft of what would be evergreen foliage in a milder climate than ours, but here it usually gets badly disfigured, although the heart of the plant winters out safely. Those who possess C. lanceolata would do well to examine their plants, and if they are correctly named, to get C. grandiflora, for both are admissible into even the most select collections, and considerable difference will be found in the duration of the flowering season of the two plants. It has been stated that Coreopsis lanceolata ripens seed sparingly in some seasons; this may be true, but I am very sure that Goldfinches find the seed the most palatable food they can obtain in its season, as I once discovered when trying to save a quantity of seed. They did not wait for it to ripen, but seemed to prefer it when approaching maturity, and perhaps it has been through the agency of Goldfinches that the Coreopsis is so often met with as an escape from cultivation in places where it could not otherwise have been found. Seedlings of C. grandiflora, if raised early and planted out in good soil, will flower nicely by the end of summer, and will make a fine display the following season. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

18 March 1891
Clianthus Dampieri
This plant, also known as the Australian Glory-pea, is a truly beautiful one when in flower, but, as is well-known to all who have attempted its cultivation, there could scarcely be a more fickle subject. Much has been written on the treatment of this plant, and, curiously enough, those who have succeeded with it are all equally emphatic in commending their several methods, which, it is hardly necessary to add, are widely different. It is not because I have discovered any new way of treating this plant, but from the fact that seeds were sown last September in a cool greenhouse, and a plant produced therefrom is now in flower, that I am tempted to record the fact that others may do likewise. The seeds were few in number, and were sown in a four-inch pot, and when the pot was full of roots the ball of soil, without any disturbance, was shifted into a six-inch pot, and as red spider does not seem to have attacked the plant, it is still in good health, and other flowers are showing for future display. To those unacquainted with the plant, it may be well to explain that the prevailing color of the flower is bright red, the lower part or keel bearing a strong resemblance to a lobster's claw, to which it has often been likened. The upper half of the flower is almost black, with a small blotch of white. This is the typical plant. There is also a variety known as C. marginatus, in which the color of the claw is white, margined with red, giving the plant a most distinct appearance. An excellent colored figure of this variety appeared in the London Garden a year ago. It appears that Louis Viewig, of Quedlinburg, Prussia, has hit upon the plan of grafting C. Damnfieri upon the much hardier and more easily grown C. piiznicens, which gives it a much better constitution and longer life. Grafted plants are offered at very low prices, and should be worth the notice of some of our enterprising nurserymen and seedsmen. It may also be remarked that the white-margined variety has been named " Deutsche Flagge," the colors being red, white and black. Those who attempt the cultivation of the Clianthus should use light soil composed of loam, leaf-mold, a little charcoal, and enough sand to make the soil porous, and when potting it on they should take care not to injure a single root-fibre. Careful attention also should be given to the watering. Clianthus giunicens is itself a very beautiful plant. Years ago I remember to have seen a fine plant growing outof-doors in a sheltered position on a south wall, which every summer flowered profusely, and was a beautiful object. C. Jiunicens could not be grown here in New England in this way, but is well worth trying in a greenhouse, however limited the space, as it could be planted out and trained up the rafters, and if freely syringed red spider could be kept away much more easily than would be the case with C. Damnpiieri, the foliage of the latter being densely clothed with a woolly covering, and therefore an excellent refuge for this minute pest. South Lancaster MA, O.O.

25 March 1891
Hardy Narcissus
In English gardening periodicals the complaint is now current that bulbs of Narcissus, planted in the open ground late last fall, have been kept perfectly dormant all the winter owing to the unusual severity of the season, and fears are expressed for the crop of bloom and welfare of the bulbs, owing to insufficient root action. Although this is a complaint of English growers alone, still we may gather some useful hints from it which may help us when planting time comes again. It is perfectly safe to say, that as soon as the value of a permanent bed of out-door Narcissus is generally recognized these charming spring bulbs will be planted in large quantities. But failure, or partial failure, is almost sure to confront the cultivator in the first attempt unless certain precautions are taken at planting'time, and of one of these precautions the complaint referred to forcibly reminds us. Nine-tenths, perhaps, of the Narcissus planted each year are newly imported bulbs, for which we have to depend upon dealers who get them with their other bulbs in fall, and by the time these get to the planters the season is far advanced and sharp frosts are upon us, rapidly robbing the soil of its store of warmth laid up during the summer. Such was my own experience last fall when planting an extensive permanent bed of Narcissus in the open ground. Fortunately the difficulty was foreseen, and, after planting, a covering of twenty-four inches of dry leaves was placed over the whole bed, and it was scarcely completed before snow was upon us, and hard frosts. It was a long time before the thick blanket of leaves was wet through, and consequently the soil did not freeze, and an examination to-day proves that the growth made by the bulbs is ample at the root to support the leaves and flowers when the time comes for them to appear. There is no doubt that the covering of leaves served as a protection from cold above and prevented the escape of warmth from the soil. As soon as the weather permits the covering will be carefully removed and the bulbs will be in flower a very short time after, as they are now pushing through the soil. There is one other way to ensure success with a new planting, and this is by obtaining American-grown bulbs. In this way the beds may be planted as early as the middle of July, and better at that time than later, for, owing to the strong sunshine, the foliage will have already turned yellow, and root action will have ceased. This action begins again, however, about the end of August, and it would be better to buy imported bulbs than home-grown ones lifted after the roots have commenced to grow, as the best roots and the principal feeders would be injured beyond help by removal, and a second start would have to be made at the expense of the vital forces stored up in the bulb. To a beginner the difference in shape and size of homegrown Narcissus bulbs and imported ones is perplexing; the latter have very short necks, while of those grown here such kinds as Sir Watkin and Horsfield's often have necks that make the bulb measure six inches in length; this is brought about by the different systems of planting. Our climate makes it necessary to plant much deeper than is the custom in Europe. If we planted as shallow here the plants would be above the soil in fall, owing to the much greater heat here at that period. As already mentioned, our planting is intended to be a permanent one. And in summer, plants of annual duration will be planted between the rows, such as Mignonette, Asters and other kinds for cutting, and in fall, when the first sharp frosts have killed these, the beds can be cleaned and a good top dressing of well-decayed manure spread on them. The heavy fall rains will wash this down to the roots and nourish them when they are most in need of help. It will be found necessary every third year to lift, separate and replant the bulbs, owing to the rapidity with which they multiply. In heavy soils the bulbs would soon become so cramped in the soil as to render them flowerless owing to imperfect development, but in lighter soils this would not be so likely to occur. There should be no excuse for a scarcity of Narcissus-flowers in gardens, when it is well understood how perfectly they are adapted for permanent planting, either for naturalization or for the decoration of flower-beds and borders. With a proper selection of varieties they can be had in the open ground from Easter onward for six weeks. The earliest kinds might be so planted that the protection of a frame could be given, and in this way Easter flowers might be assured even in late seasons, but last year there were plenty in the open ground from newly planted bulbs without the least protection. South Lancaster MA, O. Orpet.

25 March 1891
To the Editor of GARDEN AND FOREST
Sir. I wish to ask through your columns for advice as to the protection of trees, young and old, deciduous and evergreen, from the depredations of field mice. We have had snow on the ground for fourteen weeks, and, as the last of it is now disappearing, the ground is covered with a complete network of their runs. Their nests have been made of the grass under the snow, and they are now easily seen, but the late occupants have migrated. Their work, however, remains. Apple-trees, twenty-five years old, are completely girdled by them so that not a vestige of bark remains where they have been at work, but worse damage has been done among choice trees and shrubs recenly planted. A fine young Copper Beech is stripped of bark for quite two feet above the ground level. The damage was not visible until the snow cleared away, and then the ruin was beyond repair. South Lancaster MA, O.O. [A good way of protecting trees from mice is to tramp the snow hard about the trunks after every storm during the winter. The mice cannot push through the snow when it is packed. If the bark of the tree is washed late in autumn with some preparation distasteful to the mice this will often answer as a protection. Aloes, gas-tar, carbolic acid and sulphur are used for this purpose. After the injury has been done scions are sometimes laid over the girdled space, with their thin ends inserted under the bark above and below and carefully waxed and wrapped. This conservative surgery will in many cases save the tree.-ED.]

8 April 1891
Ipomcea pandurata
This plant is going the rounds of the catalogues as the " Perennial Morning Glory," and it will probably be widely distributed this year. It is quite safe to say that all who buy the plant will also buy experience. It is also true that the plant is very beautiful, a perennial and quite hardy, being a native plant, and, according to Gray, found from Connecticut to Illinois and southward. I well remember finding it wild for the first time and bringing specimens to the late Dr. Thurber for name. His words I repeat as nearly as my memory will permit: " Don't plant it, or if you do, don't try to dig it up, for if you do you will have a task that will last for years." His advice sufficed for me, and it was left to ramble over its native hedgerow where it was very ornamental. The plant lhas a very thick root which penetrates deeply, and every particle of this root, when broken off, will grow, so the more one tries to dig it up the more persistently does it appear over a wider area. But if one plants it where it is to remain to be gazed at for a lifetime, it would probably not spread or cause trouble. But there comes a time, in the history of most plants, when it seems best to remove them, or replace them with something else, or to dispense with them altogether. When that time in this Ipomnea's history arrives, trouble is to be apprehended. The moral is to plant the vine on a back fence or hedgerow, and not in any dressy part of the garden. S. Lancaster MA, O. O.

6 May 1891
Garden Annuals
However valuable perennial plants may be, some, like the Oriental Poppy, die down early and leave a gap, while others do not make much show until late in the season, and it is just here that the annual plants help out and contribute their share toward the summer display. A garden planted with perennials will still have room for patches of Mignonette, a group of China Asters, various in color or all alike, as the fancy is, or some Helichrysums, which, if cut when fully open and before they are discolored by the rain, will keep bright until more may be cut next season. One who tries to grow all the good perennials will still have room for all the good annuals; and a model flower-border is one that combines the best of both classes with hardy bulbous plants.
Our Narcissus are of necessity planted in a wide bordernin rows eighteen inches apart, and between the rows will be planted later on a quantity of Asters of various kinds for cutting; this will save despoiling the flower-garden proper, for.although Asters make a brave show while they are in flower, a heavy rain gives them a sorry and bedraggled look, and they should never be employed except in a secondary place, where they will aid in forming a display.
Zinnias are entirely different, and may be used alone or dotted about in groups among other plants, because they blossom continually until frost, are not hurt by rain, and are excellent for cutting. In these three respects they excel the old bedding Geranium. In a wide border, or in any place where it is customary to plant the Geranium, Zinnias will answer the purpose admirably, and one has not to provide room for them all winter. In sowing Zinnias it is best to get separate colors, as in the mixed seed there are so many displeasing shades. Good colors and true to name can now be obtained, and if you want the " finest mixed" buy the colors you like and make your own. The same remark applies to Stocks.
Another annual plant, not half so well known as it should be, is the "Yellow Corn Flower,' Centaurea suaveolens. In shape it is similar to the blue one, differing only in color, which is bright yellow. As the flowers are borne on long stems they have already attracted the attention of florists for winter cutting. The plant succeeds well when sowed in the open ground in May.
The Marguerite Carnation is one of the most valuable of recent introductions for those who cannot grow the ordinary florist Pinks, for, in a comparatively short time, good strong plants can be raised from seed and flowered, and it is surprising how really good the flowers are. The percentage of single flowers is very small. A florist of my acquaintance planted a lot of these on his benches last fall, with other pinks, and they gave an immense crop, many of them being beautiful in color, and all were fragrant. After a little more careful selection this Carnation will be an indispensable garden plant. Sweet Peas should be sown by this time, and wherever they may be planted provision should be made for watering in dry weather, or failure is certain. Last summer six weeks of dry weather deprived us of these flowers, and this season we took the precaution to dig a trench eighteen inches deep and place plenty of manure at the bottom, filling in the soil and sowing the seeds. In hot dry weather the rows will also be mulched and watered, and in this way a constant supply will be maintained. Do not buy mixed seed.
Mignonette is so much liked, and there are so many sorts offered, that one does not know which to sow out in the open ground. While all may be good in-doors, few will stand our hot sun and dry weather. We have found Machet the best it produces good stout spikes of fragrant flowers until the fall.
Nasturtiums are often planted in rich soil. This is a mistake, for very few flowers are then produced; but when sown in poor soil they will flower abundantly. The same rule holds with Salvia splendens, now often treated as an annual. The Poppies, of which there are so many kinds, are very showy. They do not last long, but if cut when about to open they will last several days, and are useful for large vases for room decoration. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

13 May 1891
Tulips
The skill of the cultivator with one division of this family, that is, the Garden Tulip, is well known. At this season these plants are in bloom in the open ground, and we shall see them in flower again in the stores of florists, painfully out of season, in November, with short stems and scant foliage. When Garden Tulips are properly planted in the fall, with a sprinkling of clean, sharp sand around the bulbs, there is no reason why these should be renewed annually, if one does not object to seeing the foliage ripen off naturally in the beds. The summer occupants should be planted without disturbing the bulbs of the Tulips. When frost kills the tender summer plants, such as Coleus, Geraniums or China Asters, these should be cleared off and a good top-dressing given to the bed, and the second year's flowers, from the same bulbs, will be better than the first. The only objection to this system is, that Tulips are usually planted in the most conspicuous place in the garden, and the foliage, when ripening off, would look somewhat out of keeping with its surroundings.
And now, a few words in favor of some of the natural forms of the Tulip which are, to many, even more interesting than the highly developed products of garden art. T. Greigi has bright, flaming-red flowers, with a yellow bordered black centre and leaves with distinct brown blotches, not unlike those of a Dog's-tooth Violet in the markings. This plant is hardy, easy to grow, and, with proper care, will flower every year.
For several years past I have had a great deal of satisfaction from the cultivation of that charming species, T. Turkestanica. The pretty, though not showy, flowers of this little Tulip may be found on the first bright day after the frost is out of the soil. It is peculiar in bearing several flowers on a branched stem; I have seen as many as five. The leaves of this species are developed above ground in fall and are never injured by cold. It deserves to be more widely known. Another attractive species is T. cornuta, the horned Tulip. This is a robust species which flowers every year without assistance. The petals, instead of overlapping each other and forming a cup-shaped flower, are'narrow and taper to a point; they are about four inches long and usually yellow, striped with red. This Tulip is seldom grown, though cheap and easily obtained, and is worthy a place in every garden. The bulb of T. Oculus-solis, the Sun's Eye Tulip, is of itself remarkable. Between the bulb and its outer covering is a beautiful lining of cotton-like hairs, so interwoven as to be a complete protection. The flower is bright red, with a red and yellow centre, and, although very beautiful and perfectly hardy, it is too rarely met with in cultivation. T. Gesneriana is interesting as one of the recognized parents of the Garden Tulip. This species has a very good flower, though not as showy as its progeny.
T. Gesneriana Dracontia is the parent of the varieties known as Parrott Tulips, which are difficult to succeed with in pots, although their flowers are pretty, curious, and in some varieties, as Monstre Rouge, really showy. They should be staked, as they are weak-stemmed, and fall down on the ground unless supported. They will not force at any season; as I write, pans that have been brought on slowly in cold frames have a number of flowerless bulbs. We shall try them in the open ground next season in poor soil.
There should be no difficulty with the culture of the species of Tulips any more than with the garden varieties. They are natives of Algeria, central Asia and the south of France, and this suggests the need of a somewhat dry soil. This is especially true during their resting season-our summer months. Very seldom does a summer pass when there is not enough dry weather to ripen them thoroughly and enable them to make a vigorous start again in the fall. If the species now in commerce were more generally grown, many others now known in European gardens would soon be obtainable here, and our Tulip-beds in spring would not all be of one invariable pattern in regulation bedding colors or made up of the still worse "mixed Tulips in fine variety." South Lancaster MA, E. O. O.

20 May 1891
Hardy Narcissus
The Narcissus season is now closing in, and, so far as one can judge at present, has been a complete success. Apart from the newer varieties tried this year for the first time, there are several other points worth recording. It has been fairly tested and proved here that Irish-grown Narcissus are better ripened, and, in consequence, flower better than Holland-grown bulbs. The bulbs received from Ireland were not remarkable for size, but from most of them two flowers, and from many three flowers, were produced, and good flowers, too. This fact may be of use to those who force Narcissus largely, for complaints are common this year of the flowering of bulbs grown in Holland. As to the covering of late-planted bulbs, as heretofore advised, one point should have been emphasized more strongly, which is, that after planting it is absolutely necessary where field-mice abound, as they do here, to allow the frost to penetrate to the depth of two inches in the soil. This will keep the mice above ground, otherwise the Narcissus-bed would be a perfect paradise for them, with the covering of dry leaves to nest in.
One of the best of newer kinds tried this year is NA bicolor brcecox. This is in flower with the earliest kinds, almost two weeks before N. bicolor Horsfieldii, and in shape and color is almost identical except that it is smaller; but one cannot have too many bicolored varieties, especially when they are as good as Grandee or Grandis, which is equal in every respect to, Horsefield's variety, and the one bulb gave us three perfect flowers. The perianth is pure white with a pale yellow trumpet, and the flower is of good substance. I had always thought that Empress and Emperor were tender and hard to keep, but with us they are the most vigorous, and the size and substance of their flowers are unsurpassed. Duchess de Brabant is one of the Eucharis-flowered section and is known as pure white, but there is a tinge of creamy yellow in the flowers, which are two or three on a stem. This is a very pretty variety, dwarf, and useful when cut. Of the Poet's Narcissus the earliest is the variety Angustifolius. It flowered ten days before Ornatus, the well-known early-forcing kind, and is equally as good in its way. The true variety, Poetarum, is distinct, for, instead of the centre being margined with red, it is wholly of a deep orange-scarlet or saffron. We received a lot of other bulbs under this name which were nothing more than the N. jpticus, which is easily distinguished by the coloring of the cup.
Ard Righ, or Irish King, is a very early Trumpet variety, and forces well, and makes a better plant for this purpose than Trumpet Major. Countess of Annesley, also a Trumpet variety, is equal to Golden Spur, and very desirable. It was found in an old Irish garden, as were also many more charming kinds, where they have been hidden for years past, but have been hunted up since the development of what may be considered almost a craze for these flowers. Some of the newer sorts certificated at the London Conference last year command prices which testify to the demand for novelties of this sort among wealthy amateurs. Twenty-five dollars is the modest sum asked for one bulb, and if the flower is as goodas described it may be as many years before it will be cheap or common; but this is an exceptional case. Good showy kinds can now be purchased of most dealers in fall, and even the cheapest are good to commence with, and then, again, some of the more expensive sorts are really cheap, they increase so rapidly. Sir Watkin, for instance, is one of the most profitable kinds ever introduced; where one bulb is planted three may be dug the following year, it multi-plies so quickly by offsets. The depth at which to plant has been, and is still, a vexed question both here and abroad. Mr. Gerard takes exception to the depth recommended by me, and practiced very successfully in his own locality and in this, but the difference lies entirely in the nature of the soil, which with him is a red clay, while those with which I have had to deal have been of a sandy or gravelly nature, warm and dry in summer, and porous in winter. Had I his soil to deal with it would be necessary, perhaps, to plant differently and to leave the beds bare during summer, but here even the more delicate and even tender kinds do well under the treatment I have described in these columns.
European catalogues often add in their descriptions of Narcissus the dates at which they may be expected to bloom in the open ground. It need hardly be said that this is not of any use to us here, as when spring opens a week of difference there may become something less than a day here, but perhaps if they were grown in pots in cold frames there would be a greater interval between the kinds. Pot-culture, however, is scarcely to be recommended, as even when well grown in pots the plants become so drawn out of all character that it is very difficult to distinguish the varieties. Such was the case at the spring show of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society, and the same may be said of nearly all hardy plants, they lose one of their special charms, their hardiness. S. Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

10 June 1891
Myosotis palustris semperflorens
Why is it we do not see more of the Forget-me-nots in gardens? Several of them are really good, such as M. alpestris, M. dissiliflora and others, but the ever-flowering variety I have named is to be relied on to flower for six months of summer, and is just now as beautiful as a Forget-me-not knows how to be. Our long borders were edged with cuttings rooted and planted in September last, where they grew rapidly in the fall, and they now form a band eighteen inches wide around the garden that is very pleasing, and the more so as they will flower all summer. This variety is perfectly hardy, roots rapidly either as cuttings or where it grows in the open ground. M. alpestris and its white variety flower about two weeks earlier, and then they are past for the rest of the season. The white Forget-me-not is not worth the room it occupies. What is known as the Giant Forget-me-not (Ompfihalodes verna) is a lovely plant where it succeeds well. I have heard of its becoming perfectly at home in old gardens in Massachusetts, but I could never persuade it to make itself contented, but propose to try again as the opportunity to secure plants may occur. S. Lancaster MA, O. O.

17 June 1891
Alstromeria pelegrina
Last year I noted the beauty of the white form of this plant, which is also known as the Lily of the Incas, though, of course, not a Lily at all, but one of the Amaryllidaceae. The white variety is beautiful certainly, but the typical form is proving itself equally good, and much more showy than its variety Alba. The color is a soft pink, with a shade of green, and red lines. A small root imported last fall has produced many flower-sprays, and they last well when cut. This Alstromeria is not to be recommended for out-door planting, but as an in-door pot-plant. It is easily raised from seed, as these germinate much more readily than those of other kinds, but I have a suspicion that it depends not so much on the species, whether the seeds germinate readily, as upon their being recently gathered, for I know that in the seeds of the same species in the hands of different persons there was a great difference in the period between sowing and germination. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

24 June 1891
Hardy Flower Garden
At no season of the year does the garden present a prettier appearance than at this season; the gorgeous Oriental Poppies, and the Iceland Poppies too, are at their best, with Paeonies, German Iris, Dictamnus Fraxinella, with its flashlight in the evening when fire is applied to it. The Pyrethrums, double and single, are also now showing their full beauty, and the recent exhibits at the meeting of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society indicate plainly that they are fast growing in favor. It is often stated that double Pyrethrums cannot be raised from seed, and this may be true of some seed, but last fall I sowed two packets of seed and the plants were grown on in pots. They are now all in flower, and fifty per cent are double, the rest being single, and many are as good as imported named kinds. The seeds cost about twenty-five cents and were obtained from Germany. For cutting purposes these " Painted Daisies " are valuable; they last a long time, and, when mixed with sprays of such plants as Gillenia trifoliata, have a pretty effect. Dodecatheon Meadia is blooming finely, and these American Cowslips are well worth growing, even in the most select borders, but care should be taken to secure bright-colored forms, as those of a pale, undecided pink are not worth the space they occupy. In some localities this Dodecatheon can be obtained of a bright rose color, and this is worth growing. Much can be done, however, toward improving the color of the flowers by applying burnt soil or refuse.
Helianthus divaricalus, Artemisia Pontica and some other plants which dealers persist in advertising spread rapidly and crowd their way among their neighbors, and are most difficult to get rid of. Heliopsis laevis is another weedy subject which seeds abundantly in fall and appears everywhere the following summer. Dealers in hardy plants should never disseminate such subjects without a full explanation of their habits. Stocking a garden with persistent weeds is rather worse than selling us hardy plants altogether unfitted for outdoor cultivation, a practice not altogether unknown.
Of Aquilegias there is not one prettier than the Rocky Mountain Columbine, A. coerulea. It is a pity that it is not a better perennial, for, with the best of care, it does not live long in gardens. If good seed could be obtained fresh from its native localities there would be plenty of purchasers both here and in Europe, as seed of this species is dearer than any other of the older kinds, and it often germinates badly or turns out to be not true to name. After A. Canadensis, A. coerulea was the first to flower with us, and it is still very beautiful. S. Lancaster MA, O. O.

15 July 1891
Hardy Plants
It is, perhaps, true that no doubt now remains as to the hardiness of Heuchera sanguinea, but it ought to be known that there appear to be varieties in cultivation that are scarcely worth planting, being but poor in comparison to the better form that every garden should possess. If any reader is disappointed with his plants it is quite possible these are poor varieties, and, as seed is produced so freely, there is considerable variation in the seedlings, both in foliage and flowers, and some plants have been raised of exceptional merit.
One of the prettiest Campanulas we know is C. junctata, which has been in bloom several weeks; its flowers are large, on stems eighteen inches high, and are prettily spotted within; it is a nice companion plant for C. macrantha, with large, deep, blue flowers, and C. Van Houttei, with flowers of a paler blue. These three Bell-flowers are all in bloom together, are hardy and good perennials. C. Van Houttei does not seed, as it is said to be a hybrid, and must always be propagated by division. A charming little Pea is Lathyrus tuberosus. It is now flowering abundantly, and the clusters of deep red flowers are very pretty. I am indebted to an English correspondent for my plants, and they seem perfectly contented and may prove hardy. The roots are tuberous, and much resemble those of the Ground Nut, Apios tuberosa. L. tuberosus appears to prefer to trail rather than climb; it is at present not more than eighteen inches high, and covered with flowers and buds.
We read much of hardy Gladiolus, but there are few indeed that are quite trustworthy in this respect. I have found G. Saundersii to be hardy and to come up and flower year after year when established. This, I believe, is well known, but we have had, during the past month, a pretty clump of G. Byzantinus in flower from bulbs that were planted in a border last fall and not protected in any way. The flowers of G. Byzantinus are very pretty and showy, and always early; in fact, the plants resemble G. Colvillei in every way excepting the color of the flowers, which is crimson, with white stripes on the lower part of the flower. Bulbs can easily be obtained in the fall from dealers, and, when once planted, need no further attention. Nice clumps of the pretty Himalayan Primrose, P. rosea, were sent here last fall, and one of these was risked in the open ground in moist soil, and I fully expected this would be the end of it; but in May, after the potted plants had been past several weeks, thee little rose-colored flowers began to peep above the ground, as is their way before the leaves grow, and our entire stock will be left out another year alongside of a little colony of P. denticulata nivalis, for which I am indebted to Herr Max Leichtlin, who sent me seeds last fall. Many of these plants are now in flower, which are pure white. The typical plant is well known to be hardy in Massachusetts, and is also of Himalayan origin, and we therefore have reason to hope that the variety will prove to be useful.
Achillea serrata plena, The Pearl, which gave promise last year of being a desirable border-plant and of great use for florists' work, has this season usurped more than a square yard of space to itself and will certainly have to be removed, for at its present rate of increase one can hardly contemplate its progress for another year without alarm. The danger is more threatening when we remember that last year each plant bore about three flower-stems, while now there are at least fifty to each clump, and this without any special cultivation or attention. It is a plant that must be placed where it cannot elbow its feebler neighbors out of their rightful places. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

22 July 1891
Hardy Flower Garden
Owing to the genial growing weather and cool days, hardy plants of all kinds are rapidly occupying the space allotted to them. It is a good plan to make notes of any desired changes, and it is none too early to begin, for many of the earlier-flowering plants and bulbs have already died down, and, where this is so, the places must be carefully borne in mind or marked, so that when replanting is done in fall such plants may not be disturbed. Unless hardy plants are placed in position with the greatest care by one acquainted with the nature of each plant, it takes a season or two to get them so arranged that, by the contrast or the blending of colors, each one may produce the best effect, and none may thrive at the expense of its neighbors. Polemonium fauciflorum is now in bloom with us, and, for a Polemonium, is very distinct, owing to its tubular yellow flowers, but as a garden-plant it will probably go the way of all the other species; there are none that are really worth caring for, now that we have so many better garden-plants.
Mr. Barker's note on Heuchera sanguinea fully corroborates my statement that there are inferior varieties in cultivation. He describes the flowers of his plants as "salmon-red," which is, no doubt, correct. Our plants have flowers of the most brilliant crimson, and this should be the proper color of the flowers as first described. An English writer describes this plant as the best hardy plant sent out for years; certain it is that seedlings vary a great deal in flower and leaf. Once in a while an extra large and bright flower is obtained, but much oftener the reverse. A remarkably good variety is said to have been produced in Ireland.
Aquilegia chrysantha alba seems, beyond question, to be the plant already known here as A. caerulea alba. It is identical with the blue Rocky Mountain Columbine in all but color, and it flowers at the same time. It is useless to depend upon seeds bought in Germany to produce a good-named collection of Columbines; the plants come fast enough, but it will save a lot of trouble and disappointment if they are left without labels. Columbines, of all other plants, need careful isolation to produce seeds that will come true.
We have six varieties of Lemoine's hybrid Montbretias, also AM. crocosmioefora; they were kept growing all winter in a cool house, and are now all flowering. The merits of the various kinds have been already commented on in GARDEN AND FOREST, and it is only necessary for me to add that all of the varieties we have are quite distinct, and some are much more showy than the parent plants. A large group of the Montbretias, Kniphofias and Arundo donax versicolor are planted together, and promise to make a fine display later on. The Kniphofias, or Torch Lilies, are already showing flower-spikes.
Young plants of Phygelius Capensis, raised from cuttings last winter, are flowering freely and make excellent borderplants, and, even should they not prove hardy, may easily be wintered in a cold frame. Of annuals, the Marguerite Carnation will be an indispensable plant for summer-flowering. Ours are just commencing to flower, and it would appear as if the strain has been improved upon since last season, as there is a much smaller percentage of single flowers, and all are flowering, while last year there were many plants which would not keep the promise to flower in a few weeks after sowing. When wintered over, however, they flowered this spring. We owe a great deal to the raiser of this pretty and precocious race of Carnations. So. Lancaster MA, O. O.

5 August 1891
Hollyhocks
These favorite old-fashioned flowers have for some time past been at their best, and they are very attractive at the back of a wide border. The Hollyhock disease has done much to discourage growers in this region, where it has prevailed, and therefore success is the more pleasant. We used to have much satisfaction from the named collection of some two dozen varieties, which were mostly Charter's kinds. Some of these Charter Hollyhocks still live, and are well worth growing when they can be obtained. As Hollyhocks come true from seeds, in some sections there would be no difficulty in keeping the varieties year after year. Situated as we are, it is best to obtain fresh seed each year, and start a new lot to secure a good display of stems six to eight feet in height. As perennial plants they are very uncertain in our colder states, and only a part of the crop will survive even the first winter. There are three periods at which seed may be sown with about equal success, the difference being principally in the amount of trouble and space involved. Seed may be sown early in January, and if the plants are grown on without a check they will flower the same year, but the trouble is that a warm greenhouse is indispensable, and so also is plenty of space at a season when space is scarce. Seed may also be sown in March, and the seedlings planted in the open ground in May; they will make strong plants and flower the following year. Plants grown from seed sown in July, or very early in August, should, when they are large enough, be set out in a bed of rich soil. When cold weather comes the plants should be covered with a few dry leaves and protected by a frame of rough boards. In early spring they may be uncovered and planted in the places where they are to flower. From this method we have had the best results with the least trouble. Hollyhocks like rich soil, and should be watered well in dry weather; strong stakes are necessary to protect them in rough winds. I am not aware that any remedy has been found for the disease, but if there has been, many lovers of these flowers would be glad to know of it. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

19 August 1891
Hardy Plant Notes
The successful cultivation of Iris Susiana out-of-doors (see GARDEN AND FOREST, vol. iv., p. 357) is rather unusual, but I think it can be explained. The cultivation of this Iris in Holland has apparently been better understood of late years, and, as I have before stated, seven out of twelve rhizomes, purchased last fall, flowered this spring. This success is also unusual, but is owing, perhaps, to the very fine roots the Dutch growers sent us last fall. The principal reason for advocating pot-culture is, that all of the Oncocyclus group of Iris enjoy a thorough baking in the sun after the flowering season is past and the leaves have died off. Our plants are now undergoing this treatment in a cold frame, and after this thorough ripening will start to grow vigorously next fall. I have never heard of any one who has successfully grown this Iris in the open air any length of time. Our experience has been similar to that of Mr. Barker's in the Harvard Botanic Garden, and a good round number of roots have been used to experiment with.
We hear much of the new Iris Gatesii. It belongs to the same group as I. Susiana, and is, we are told by Herr Max Leichtlin, the largest-flowered Iris known, and exceeds the Mourning Iris in beauty; let us hope that the plant may soon be common. I. Iberica is, to me, quite as beautiful as I. Susiana, and I think the markings are much more delicate and refined. The plant itself, when in flower, does not exceed six inches in height. With me it flowers perfectly well in the open ground, but we do not often see it in bulb lists. I quite agree with Mr. Gerard (vol. iv., p. 334) that it is "difficult to understand why, cultural skill being equal, Irish bulbs should be better than others," but certain it is that in Ireland the Narcissus has found a most congenial soil and climate, for any one who has seen them there will find it hard, as I did, to believe they are not indigenous. But the fact is, that many of the commonest weeds here in New England are not native, and yet they grow with more vigor than in their original homes.
Mr. Orcutt's notes on the new Californian Poppy suggest the query why the lovely Romneya Coulteri is scarcely to be had here in the east. I have repeatedly purchased seeds and sown them with all care, but have failed to raise anything besides weeds. I sent to California for plants last fall and received nothing but excuses in return. A leading eastern firm to whom I applied "did not have it," although it was advertised in their lists. It is common in England, and I suppose the only way to get it is to send there, for American plants are appreciated there as they deserve to be; even the common Rudbeckia hirta is there thought worthy of two synonyms, and the number of these may sometimes be taken as a fair index of the popularity of a plant. So. Lancaster MA, O. Orpet.

23 September 1891
Border Flowers in Autumn
Erythrolaena conspicua
This plant, the "Scarlet Mexican Thistle," as it has been styled, promises to be useful for sub-tropical bedding, for, though only a thistle, it has an imposing appearance when well grown, and when in flower arrests attention at once by the bright-colored bracts of the flowers. From a packet of seeds sown in February we obtained three plants, which were liberally treated, and one of these is now flowering. It is six feet high, with branches. overshadowing a square yard of ground. The plant is distinct in habit, and, when in flower, very ornamental. It is necessary to sow the seed early in the year to get the plants to, flower the same summer, as our seasons are too short, and, as it is, we shall not be able to obtain any seed this year.
Helianthus mollis
Of the many species of hardy Sunflowers this is one deserving of front rank as a hardy gardenplant. I know of no species that flowers with such persistency, for since it began in July we have always had an abundance of bloom, and there are still many to follow until frost comes. Part of our plants were obtained from Tennessee, where it is said to occur occasionally in a wild state, and is often cultivated in gardens even there. Other plants were received from another source, which, I believe, was said to have been originally New Mexico, and this is quite probable, as this species has a wide distribution in the southern and south-western states; consequently there were doubts in my mind as to its hardiness, and a plant was left out in a cold wet border last winter. It came through safely, so there need be no doubt about it in the future, for in the same border strong and established clumps of H. orgyalis were completely killed, and so was the double H. multiforus, so often catalogued as being perfectly hardy, which it certainly is not here. H. mollis grows about five feet high in good soil. The flowers are large, bright yellow, of good substance, and can be cut with long stems for vases, and when it is offered to the public and becomes better known will surely be appreciated as one of our very best hardy Sunflowers.
Helianthus grandiplenus
This is our first season's experience with this new form of the common double H. multiflorus as introduced by Hartland, of Cork. There are said to be other forms distributed under this name, so care was taken to procure the true variety direct from the introducer. The difference in the individual flowers is not very apparent except by comparison, when it is seen at once that in the variety Grandiplenus the outer row, or guard petals, are not present, as in the older variety, making it quite distinct in that respect. Our plants, also, are much taller than in the older variety. One clump has grown eight feet high and is much more spreading in habit, the flowers also can be cut with longer stems; but these three traits may all be due to liberal treatment. It is to be hoped it will prove hardier than the older variety. Judging from the plant as it is, it is a question if there is any great advance made from the old double H. multiforus, of which there are several very good single forms which do not seem to have gained popularity as they deserve, for they are as beautiful as single medium-sized Sunflowers for cutting purposes. South Lancaster MA,. O. O. Orpet.

30 September 1891
The Planting of Hardy Bulbs
Our public parks and gardens have shown us for years the possibilities of floral decoration with plants of a bulbous nature. The great majority of these are spring-flowering, and, in consequence, die down early in the summer, and need replacing with other suitable plants. I would like to offer a few remarks upon the culture of bulbs which are really desirable, and, at the same time, hardy in the eastern states.
The best soil for bulb culture is that of a sandy nature, but a stiff clay soil may be used with good success provided a liberal quantity of sharp sand or grit is mixed with it and also placed immediately under the bulbs. I was shown recently some soil taken from one of the bulb farms in Holland, and it was composed almost entirely of white sand enriched by large applications of thoroughly decomposed cow manure, the remains of which, on shaking the bottle, were easily seen on the surface of the heavier sand. It is evident from this example that there cannot be a soil too sandy to grow bulbs successfully, if it is well fertilized and sufficient moisture is assured, until June at least. If the soil is heavy, plenty of sand must be added. Naturally moist soils, with no means of draining, would offer the worst condition for bulb culture, assuming that the bulbs are to be planted, not for one season only, but permanently. I am satisfied that this can be done with the majority of bulbs, with the exception of Hyacinths; but, although these bulbs are perfectly hardy, and will flower for several years, the bloom of the first season will never be equaled.
Of strictly hardy bulbs there is no genus that will give so much real pleasure as the Narcissus, of which much has been already said in the columns of GARDEN AND FOREST. The long lists that bulb-dealers are offering to their patrons, and the number of communications received concerning Narcissus culture, indicate the growing popularity of this flower. In a list recently received from an American dealer the genus is subdivided into the different sections, as in the lists of the large European dealers who make a specialty of thle Narcissus. Our experiments with Narcissus, begun last fall, were distinctly successful, as was the large bed of Asters planted between the rows this summer. We shall now give the bed a moderate top-dressing, and shall expect double the quantity of flowers next spring. There has been just one incident to mar the entire success of the plan. A zealous but unintelligent assistant, after removing the Asters from the bed, proceeded to pull up the labels he found there, which, of course, belonged to the Narcissus.
We intend to double our planting this fall. The bulbs were ordered early in July, and August delivery insisted upon, but they have not yet arrived. Directly after they reach us they will be planted in rows six to eight inchies deep, and six to eight inches apart in the rows, according to the variety, the rows themselves eighteen inches apart. This allows of hoeing and keeping the beds clean until the annuals are planted between them in summer, when the weeds must be pulled by hand. Writers have differed as to the depth at which Narcissus should be planted, and have doubted the advisability of growing other plants over them in summer. It is only necessary to add that our soil is light, with a gravelly subsoil, and our success has always been certain with deep planting in soils of this nature. I do not anticipate any harm to the bulbs from the planting over them, as their roots are dormant when the other plants are growing, and, in a wild state, they always grow in pastures where they have a perennial covering of herbage above and around them. 1 have an idea that premature ripening of the foliage, which often occurs here during a hot and dry season, is considerably lessened by the partial shade afforded, both to the soil and foliaoge of Narcissus, by the summer occupants of the beds. Narcissuis are equally good for massing in beds, as is done with TuIlips; but for this purpose the commoner kinds should be used, and these should be planted about six to eight inches apart each way. These need not necessarily be removed in summer, as there will be ample space between them for the insertion of Coleus, Vinca, Geranium, and other bedding plants. South Lancaster MA,. E. O. Orpet.

7 October 1891
Planting Hardy Bulbs
When it is desired to mass Narcissus for color effect, as in flower-beds, it is obviously necessary to plant those kinds together that will be in flower about the same time. The flowering season lasts over a much more extended season in Europe than in America, owing to the more gradual approach of the spring season. With us Narcissus-flowers can be counted on in two weeks after the frost leaves the soil, and the different varieties may be had in abundance for about a month if the yellow kinds are used. The white varieties of the Poeticus section extend the season two weeks longer. One who wishes to plant yellow kinds can select a few of the most reliable kinds, like Princeps, which is cheap, early and good. N. obvallaris, the Tenby Daffodil, one of the best for any purpose, with N. rugilobus, N. incomparabilis and its variety Stella, which has white perianth and yellow crown, and N. spurius, the Trumpet Major of catalogues, are well-tried and reliable varieties, and we were much pleased with Ard Righ (Irish King) last season, although it is hardly cheap enough yet to enable us to use it in quantity. All these flower early, and are suitable for naturalizing.
Of the Poeticus varieties, of which there are now many, a very interesting bed might be planted, the first of which to flower would be the variety Angustifolius, which, with us, is two weeks earlier than any other. Next comes Ornatus, followed by Poetarum, a variety with a rich orange-scarlet eye, a very desirable and cheap kind and distinct from all others. The typical N. poeticus is followed by Majalis and Recurvus, which flower in May and last, here, until after Decoration Day, when they are often invaluable to florists. The Poet's Narcissus are elegant when naturalized in grass or under trees. They never deteriorate under these conditions, and I have never yet found any reason to complain of flowerbuds failing to develop, although I have often heard this lament from others. When planting for naturalization it is best to do so by taking out a good breadth of soil, about six inches deep, and placing the bulbs on the ground. The soil should then be filled in, and, when leveled, a little grass-seed should be sown over it and all will be well.
While the above-named kinds are all easily procured, even by those of moderate means, there are varieties which are much more expensive, and many of them are very beautiful. Among these are the hybrid varieties raised in gardens, such as Horsfield's, which have never yet been equaled, and for which we are indebted to a Lancashire weaver, John Horsfield, whose name will be perpetuated for many a year by this striking flower, with its creamy white perianth and its rich yellow trumpet. N. Horsfieldii will never be cheap, although it is a kind which every one wants and ought to have. Grandee, or Grandis, belongs also to the Bicolor section and is a noble flower, as is also Empress and a kind known as Maws Bicolor. We were much pleased with N. bicolor praecox last season; it was the earliest plant of the Bicolor section to bloom, and was quite two weeks earlier than Horsfieldii. It was in the vanguard with N. pallidus praecox and Ard Righ.
Of the Trumpet Daffodils, Golden Spur is among the earliest and a very fine flower, and with the true Maximus, Henry Irving, Princeps, Countess of Annesley and Obvallaris should be planted by all, if only one bulb of each variety. The latest of the Trumpet section is Abscissus, or Muticus, and desirable on this account, while Emperor is well described as a magnificent flower, and it has proved perfectly hardy with us and is increasing threefold. There is this satisfaction in growing Daffodils, that where one plants a bulb at least two, and often three, may be found the following year. There never was a more profitable bulb grown by dealers than Sir Watkin, which is surprisingly prolific, but many are disappointed on first seeing it flower; indeed, there are many better ones.
Of the Swansneck section of drooping flowered Narcissus, some are very elegant, and most of them are nearly white. Among the best are Leda, William Goldring, Pallidus Praecox, Cernuus Pulcher, and N. moschatus, a lovely white variety. All the above varieties are found hardy here, and can, no doubt, be grown almost anywhere in the United States. We have planted forty-two kinds this fall, and hope to be able to report later as to their behavior here. There is no end to varieties, but if one only chooses the most distinct of each section to commence with, the others can be added as time goes on and the love for them increases, as it surely will. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

14 October 1891
Hardy Bulbs
If not already in the ground, the bulbs of Tulips and Hyacinths, in the colder states, should be planted as soon as possible, or by the end of October at the latest. Tulips, as seen in our public gardens and parks, are gorgeous while they last, and are eminently suited to such places, and they are often planted largely in private places, and this is the reason that other bulbs have been so long in the background. Tulips are often planted for one season's display only and then thrown away, but it is a very easy matter to plant them somewhat deeper when they can remain in the beds permanently. The bulbs will increase and the quantity of flowers will increase annually if a good top-dressing be given to the bed in the fall, as recommended for the Narcissus. In light soils a depth of six inches is ample for Tulips, but an inch less is better if the soil be of a retentive nature. If it is desired to plant the bulbs in geometrical or other designs the soil must be entirely removed from the beds to the necessary depth, leaving the centre of the bed higher than the margin, just as the surface will be when the bulbs are covered, otherwise the centre bulbs would be covered deeper than the others and they would not flower together. Care must be taken not to tread the soil too hard while planting, or a free root-action will be hindered.
If it is necessary to enrich the soil in the beds it is best done by adding the fertilizers after the bulbs are just covered with soil and before the top-covering of soil is laid on. Most bulbs are very impatient of being brought into direct contact with manure. I always like to place it over them, that the roots may have the nutriment washed down to them by the rains. If there is the least germ present of what is known as the Lily disease, or basal rot, in Narcissus, it seems to me highly important that decaying animal or vegetable matter should not be allowed to come in contact with the bulbs. In cold heavy soil a good sprinkling of sharp grit, or sand, should be placed underneath the bulbs, and the young roots will start out with more vigor and spread rapidly. Bulbs of any description, indeed, cannot be grown in a soil that contains excessive moisture in winter or sunmmer; under-draining is in such a case imperative. Care must be taken that all the manure used is thoroughly decomposed, for in such material as half-decayed stable-manure field-mice are apt to find a happy hunting ground, and they are exceedingly fond of Tulips and other choice bulbs.
All these directions apply equally well to Hyacinths also, with the exception that Hyacinths, though they flower for two or three years, are never so good as they are the first season, and cannot be relied upon for permanent planting as Tulips and Narcissus can. It is scarcely necessary here to name varieties, as these are always well described and classed as to season, height and color in all bulb-catalogues, and it would be but a repetition here, but I would like to suggest a trial of the species of Tulips, even if only a few of each be planted. They are quite distinct; many are both curious and beautiful, most of them flower late, and all are worth growing. I refer to such species as Tulifia Gesneriana, T. Greigii, T. Turkestanica, T. Oculis-solis, T. cornuta, T. lutea, T. Clusiana, T. Florentina, and a few others. T. Greigii, the "Oueen of Tulips," is especially beautiful in flower and foliage. The Parrott Tulips, though they are unfitted for in-door culture, are very much admired and useful for cutting. These succeed well in the open ground when the soil is not too rich. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

21 October 1891
The Hardy Plant Garden
Quite a number of perfectly hardy bulbs succeed best when planted in fall and allowed to remain in the soil all winter. Although not a bulb, strictly speaking, the Lily-of-the-Valley usually should be planted as soon as it is received. There are many gardens that have a shady corner where this plant would be perfectly happy for generations, in places where it is difficult to get grass to thrive, as, for example, under trees and near shrubs that have become bare at the base. All that is necessary in planting is to cover the crowns, or "pips," about three inches deep and mulch annually with well-decayed manure to insure an abundance of these lovely flowers. Another plant, not bulbous, which should be planted now is Mertensia Virginica, the "Virginian Cowslip." No garden is complete without this early spring flower, which is far more sought after in England than here. The Mertensia has large fleshy root-stocks that send up shoots in early spring, and these bear flowers of the most intense blue, which last a long time in perfection even when cut. It is at its best here the first week in May. The Dodecatheons, also, should be planted now, as they flower early too, and if they do not flower the first season mark the spot where they are in June when they die down, and another year, when stronger, their pretty Cyclamen-like flowers may be enjoyed. There are several varieties of Dodecatheon, and all are pretty, though there are some forms sold as D. Meadia, that have a poor washed-out pink color, which may be improved by the addition of burnt earth or refuse. Collectors tell us that where prairie-fires pass over a locality the Dodecatheon-flowers are always of a much deeper color. If this is so, we have a very simple way of improving a pretty garden plant.
If every one had courage to chronicle his failures as well as the successes the world would be much wiser today. Certain it is that the beautiful Anemones that thrive so well in Britain cannot be made to feel happy here, and after trying various methods we have now transplanted what are left of them to a cold frame, where they may flower in spring. We hope they will, as they are beautiful when cut and last a longtime, but it is not wise to speak of them as hardy. I am inclined to think that Anemone fulgens is much more hardy than the varieties of A. coronaria. We planted them out once in a cold frame and merely protected them with a sash, simply to keep off the rain and snow, and they did better than any I have ever grown in pots. It is very difficult to procure a good strain of A. fulgens now; nearly one-half of them are apt to turn out mere abortions, the flowers being a mixture of green and scarlet shredlike petals. There is a form in cultivation known as Graeca, which is the best of all, with broad Tulip-like petals. In districts south of Washington A. fulgens would be perfectly hardy and a beautiful border-flower when planted in light rich soil.
Calochortus, again, cannot be considered hardy. We tested them several ways last winter, but our only success was with those in cold frames planted in pans. These flowered beautifully in spring, and were very pretty when cut. In the garden now we have Colchicum autumnale in flower, a singular plant, which attracts attention always. Colchicums should be procured early, as the flowers often develop before their arrival here from Holland. In any case much must not be expected the first season, but in spring a good growth of foliage may be looked for, and in fall they will flower abundantly. They are often called autumn Crocuses. The winter Aconite is one of the earliest heralds of spring, with yellow flowers borne on a fringe of foliage just above the ground. A clump of this is gladdening to the eye, as the bright flowers open as soon as frost loosens its hold. Botanically the plant is Eranthis hyemalis.
Chionodoxa scarcely needs an introduction, so much has been said of it, but it has never yet been over-praised. The bulbs are small, but even if planted a foot deep they will come up and flower just as early. None except those who have tried know how difficult a bulb this is to attempt to dig in quantity; one is sure to leave as many behind as are taken up. The Chionodoxa is charming in any situation for early spring display, and with it comes the deeper blue Siberian Squill. These are both cheap, perfectly hardy, and should be planted about six inches deep. Iris reticulata, one of the bulbous Irises that flower early, is not difficult to keep, and is almost as fragrant as a Violet. A little breadth of this Iris is very pretty in early spring, as the flowers open with the Snowdrops. The best Snowdrop is Galanthus Elwesii. This seems to do better year after year than G. nivalis, the older kind, and flowers much earlier also. But of the time of flowering for spring bulbs very little can be said, as so much depends upon the weather. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

11 November 1891
The Hardy Flower Garden
Whatever work remains to be done in this department should be pushed forward with all speed, as the soil is rapidly losing warmth, and the planting of herbaceous plants is dangerous if delayed too long. They do not take root in the cold soil, and are often lifted by the action of frost and killed before one is aware of it. Too much stress cannot be laid on the fact that for a considerable period in fall the soil is much warmer than the atmosphere, as may be easily ascertained by testing the matter with a thermometer, and this condition is very beneficial in establishing fall-planted bulbs and herbaceous plants, and, although herbaceous subjects are planted in larger quantities in spring, it is by no means the best season, as in spring root-action commences as soon as the frost leaves the ground, and it is more or less interrupted by transplanting at that season, however early it may be done.
When Lily-planting is contemplated the present time is the best possible if native-grown bulbs are to be used, but if imported bulbs are desired they cannot be had for several weeks, as the new stock has not arrived, and, in fact, does not arrive until too late for planting in the majority of cases, as, for instance, the Japan varieties, which are more in request than other kinds, and, taken as a class, imported ones are much more satisfactory, with perhaps one or two exceptions, as, for instance, Lilium auratum, which no one has taught us as yet how to grow and keep. With the exception of L. auraturn, home-grown Lilies may be planted now, and better flowers will follow than if later plantings are relied upon. The sooner the bulbs are planted the stronger will be the root-action from the base of the bulb; this is always poor when planting is done in spring, as the bulb has then to depend largely for subsistence upon the roots formed along the stem, and these have plenty to do to nourish properly the stalk and flowers. The depth to plant Lilies must depend largely upon several details which it is well to consider here; but, at the same time, it must be admitted that there never was a truer word spoken than that horticulture is necessarily "empirical." Experience does teach, and it is not all gained in a day, and seldom is Lily-culture fully mastered. I have noticed that some varieties with small bulbs will succeed well with shallow planting, as for example, L. Wallacei, L. callosum, L. elegans, and, emphatically, L. Philadelphicum, which always grows near the surface when found wild, while others with small bulbs, as, for example, L. Columbianum and L. tenuifoliumn, need deep planting.
A well-known Lily-grower once told me that people thought that because L. tenuifolium came from Siberia it would stand any degree of cold; but they forgot about the deep covering of snow by which the bulbs were protected on the approach of winter. Hence the saying that this beautiful Lily is best treated as an annual. L. tenuifolium, however, is not nearly as good as L. pomponium, which is not so well known, but produces more flowers of the same color, and fragrant, too, and it improves year after year under cultivation, so that we can well spare the Siberian species. L. Columbianum comes from the Pacific Coast and succeeds but poorly here in the east. I have only flowered it when planted ten to twelve inches deep, and the same remarks apply to L. Washingtonianum and L. Humboldtii. They are both beautiful but are seldom seen. Even when once planted in the garden they have a provoking way of lying dormant for eighteen months before trying to flower, and they usually die in the attempt. L. excelsum is a very distinct Lily, and is regarded as of hybrid origin as it has never been found growing wild. It should always be tried as it sometimes succeeds as well as L. candidurn, while the color is unique among Lilies - a light buff. L. Szovitsianum is another beautiful Lily seldom seen, though it sometimes succeeds well, but when it does it is not soon forgotten; the flowers are bright lemon-yellow. L. Martagon is another difficult Lily to grow, but I believe it needs stony soil, preferably elevated, as on rock-work, to make it comfortable. It is the true Turk's-cap Lily.
While the foregoing may be regarded as the shady side of Lily culture, there is still a bright side and a very sunny one it is. We must thank Japan for it to a great extent, for most of the Japan Lilies are perfectly at home here, and in some cases, as with the Tiger Lilies, we may often see them naturalized as escapees from gardens. L. speciosum and varieties, L. tigrinum and its varieties, L. Batemannae, L. Thunbergianum (or elegans), L. Hansoni, L. Japonicum and its variety Brownii, with perhaps L. Leichtlinii, constitute the majority of Lilies that can be grown outdoors here, and all are of Japanese origin. It is not generally known that the well-known Easter Lily can be grown and flowered in the open border equally as well as in the greenhouse if the bulbs are wintered in a cool cellar and planted out in spring. I refer to L. longiflorum and its variety Harrisii. L. candidum, the Madonna Lily, is perfectly hardy and needs no commendation. There are still three native Lilies that are worth growing in the garden as they improve so rapidly when given a moist soil and are very ornamental - L. superbum, L. Canadense, and L. pardalinum, the latter a western Lily but perfectly hardy here. As to planting, one cannot do wrong with those noted since they grow well here if they are planted eight or ten inches deep even where the soil is heavy, for this will save the young shoots from injury from frost in the spring; but with those that do not succeed well in all places it is best to try them in all positions available, being assured that when success is attained it will be worth recording. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

2 December 1891
Eulalia gracillima univittata
This fine ornamental grass should not be confounded with the well-known varieties of E. Japonica. The newer plant has been extensively catalogued as E. univittata, and the tendency is to associate it mentally with the older kind, and therefore it has not been so widely distributed as it deserves, for it is quite distinct in appearance, and it may be employed in places where the older E. Japonica would be quite unsuitable. E. gracillima does not exceed four feet in height under the most liberal treatment, and this is one of its most useful characteristics, for it can be used as a centre plant in large vases to the best advantage. Its foliage has a tendency to assume a horizontal position when fully matured, and this, with the white midrib of the leaf, gives the plant a very distinct appearance among ornamental grasses. Our plants were originally obtained from Monsieur Lemoine, Nancy, from whom so many desirable plants have emanated, but the native country of E. gracillima is, without doubt, Japan. It has been described as perfectly hardy in the United States, but this needs confirmation. Perhaps some reader may be able to enlighten us. Our own stock has hitherto been too limited to risk losing it by leaving it out during winter in these colder states, and there is so little trouble involved in lifting the roots and storing them in sand in a cellar that we usually adopt this method and plant them out again in newly enriched soil in spring. According to Bentham and Hooker, we must no longer call our plants Eulalias, the proper name being Miscanthus; but probably the garden name will be Eulalia for a long time.
Dahlia imperialis
This is at present one of the rarest of Dahlias in cultivation. Why this is so is not easily understood, for there is no other Dahlia so worthy of a place as this species, if space can be given it at this season, in a greenhouse. The word space means a good deal here, for, while two square feet of pot-room is enough for a well-developed specimen, it must have at least eight feet of head-room. Our plants were grown out-of-doors until frost came, when they were about five feet high; they immediately showed flower-buds, while the plants rapidly grew three to four feet higher. The first blooms are now open, and we shall have a succession of them all winter. They are very suitable for cutting, as they last a long time in water. While most other Dahlias have a flat outline, the flowers of the Imperial Dahlia are broadly campanulate, and resemble a Lily much more than a Dahlia in outline, the flowers often measuring eight inches across, and the petals being over an inch across and pure white, except at the base, where they are pink. The anthers and pollen are bright orange, forming a pretty centre to the flowers. Dahlia imperialis, in common with most of the other species, is native of Mexico, whence the plants were originally introduced into Europe over a century ago, and were at first grown for the tuberous roots, which were said to be edible, but they never found much favor with man or beast, owing to their acrid or medicinal flavor. All the species of Dahlia are single, the double varieties being the result of the gardener's art.
Montbretias (Tritonias)
In a recent article in GARDEN AND FOREST Mr. Barker says that, so far as he is aware, M. crocosmoeflora is the only hybrid in cultivation in the United States. But Mr. Gerard and others have noted on more than one occasion some half dozen others of Monsieur Lemoine's productions, such as Etoile de feu, Bouquet parfait, Drap d'or, Rayon d'or, Tigridie, Transcendant and others, all of which are distinct and equal in merit to the original M. crocosmoeflora. It is a mistake to treat Montbretias as hardy plants, for they certainly are no more hardy than the Gladiolus here in the eastern states. I have known after a mild winter a few stray bulbs to come up here and there in a feeble sort of way, precisely as do Gladiolus-corms of Monsieur Lemoine's so-called hardy kinds; but there seems to me no sort of reason for risking Montbretias in this way when it is so easy to take them up at the same time that Gladioli are dug, and store them away in a cellar in sand or earth that is moderately damp. To grow these plants well requires a rich soil, the richer the better, hence one of the advantages of transplanting every year to a new position. There are, I know, several others who cultivate the newer kinds. My own were received partly from a correspondent in Oregon and partly from another in Indiana. It would be interesting to have the experience of these western growers. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

16 December 1891
Cattleya labiata
This new old Cattleya, the rediscovery of which has caused such a sensation in Orchid circles, is now being distributed by several firms - a decided advantage to the purchaser, and, what is satisfactory to all, the supply does not seem to diminish but to assist also in the introduction of other new and desirable plants from the same district. In future, there is no reason why Cattleya-flowers should not be as plentiful in November as in the flowering seasons of C. Trianae, C. Mendelli and C. Mossiea, from early spring onwards. It was my privilege a few days ago to see some ten or twelve varieties in flower in the gardens of H. H. Hunnewell, Esq., at Wellesley. The plants in question were bought a year ago for C. Warocqueana, and are obviously the true C. labiata, and of the many plants in bloom no two were alike; all are distinct, resembling in this respect the favorite C. Trianae. We are told that this Cattleya is easy to grow, and certain it is that owing either to the inherent vigor of the plants or Mr. Harris' skillful treatment, or perhaps both, all of them were perfectly happy and growing and flowering vigorously in their new home. One could not help wishing a long life to C. labiata, for the lives of some of the very best are all too short under cultivation.
Scabiosa Caucasica
Now that the seed catalogues are in process of construction it may not be out of place to protest against the way that seeds of choice hardy perennials are persistently omitted. True, some of the commoner kinds are sometimes included, but for the really good and choice kinds we must send to the seed-growers in Europe and these, in their turn, will sometimes refer you to their wholesale buyers here, whose lists, you know, do not contain the desired seeds, even if the dealers are aware of the merits of the plants in question. It is quite time that some firm here took up this branch of the seed business and made the fact known. There is no doubt that they would be supported by the flower-loving public now that perennial border-plants are better known than ever before. It was with considerable difficulty that I obtained seeds of Scabiosa Caucasica last spring, and they grew and flowered well. During the last week of November I was much surprised to see some of the bright blue flowers expected in the open border that had many times been frozen, but which were still unhurt. Many complain of this Scabious as being difficult to cultivate, but it is not so here. In moist heavy soil they thrive and bloom the first year, and are perfectly hardy, though the plant is said to be indigenous to arid places in the Caucasus and Armenia. Hardy, or even annual plants that possess this pleasing shade of lavender-blue are rare, and should be made the most of in gardens, especially where cut flowers are desired in quantity. South Lancaster MA, E. O. O.

6 January 1892
Primula Auricula
P. Auricula is known as the Alpine Auricula to distinguish it from the fancy or exhibition kinds which have originated from the same source, but are the result of many years of careful cultivation and selection. Of the fancy Auriculas we have no need to speak here further than to say that they are not in commerce in this country, and probably never will be, as their constitution is much less vigorous than that of the parent P. Auricula, and, as a result of a generation or two of coddling, they are less hardy and much more liable to insect pests than the original stock. Fortunately for us the species has been preserved, and we still can cultivate it and enjoy its distinct beauty and fragrance. The best way to secure a stock of Auriculas is to get seed of a good strain, for there are marked differences in the quality of the flowers and the germinating power of the seed. The best time to sow the seed is the present month, for, as the seedlings are of rather slow growth in their earlier stages, it is much better to get them up to a good size before the heat of summer is upon us. Weak plants melt away under a hot sun, and the efforts of a whole season are lost. If seed be sown now the plants will be large enough to pot off in March, and by May or June they can be planted out in a frame, where they can be shaded in the hottest part of the day, as heat is much more trying to them than cold. If the young plants have partial shade they will grow more or less all summer, and in fall will make rapid progress during the cool nights, and by the time winter sets in they should be thoroughly hardened off to withstand the cold. They will become hardened naturally, unless kept covered with sashes when there is no necessity for them, and when cold weather sets in a few dry leaves or Pine-needles may be spread among the plants, and shutters may be put over until spring, when the plants will start to grow, and flower as soon as the covering is removed. The plants are not hard to suit in the matter of soil. Loam, with leaf-mold and a little fertilizer, will be found satisfactory. Auriculas are fond of moisture, and during the growing season must have plenty of water, hence the difficulty of growing them in pots. When the foliage is large and thick the pots are covered and water difficult to applv. so we prefer to plant them out in frames, from which they may be lifted and potted in the flowering season, if wanted for indoor decoration, for which they are well adapted, as they last well and have exquisite color and a pleasing fragrance. The only real difficulties in the culture of these Auriculas are the heat of summer, for which shade is an easy remedy, and the freezing and thawing of the winter season. If kept dry overhead frost does not injure them, but frost and wet combined often rots them, hence the need of covering and a space for the circulation of air, when the plants will winter well and flower the spring after they are sown. Those who have only the convenience of a cold frame will find great pleasure in cultivating Auriculas, as there are almost always some in flower where plants are grown in any quantity. Unfortunately, few attempt to grow them. I can sympathize with those who are discouraged, for some of the seed I used last spring proved disappointing. It is a great point gained if the seeds are authentic. We are told by dealers that Auricula seed has a trick of waiting a year, or oftener two years, before it germinates, but I find that if the seed is good, all that has not given plants ready to prick off at the end of three months is not worth waiting for any longer. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

20 January 1892
Seed-sowing
January is a dull month as far as garden operations are concerned. The days are so short that growing plants are almost at a standstill, so there is very little potting that can be done; but it is an excellent time to sow small seeds like those of Begonias and Gloxinias. It is well known that seeds germinate well when kept darkened, and partly owing to this, and because the temperature is under control at this season, small seeds will now germinate evenly and well, and they are not so liable to be washed out by overwatering, because, if they are properly sown, little water is needed until they are above ground. To destroy all insects and weed-seeds in the soil intended for use it is a good plan to prepare it, sifted, ready for use, and then place it in a tin vessel and bake it for half an hour in a hot oven. This treatment will forestall all trouble with worms or weeds. When sowing a lot of Australian seeds some time ago I tried the solution of copper, which is said to prevent pots from becoming green, and this, with baked soil, seemed to be a good way to reduce the growth of moss on the soil to a minimum, as perfectly new pots were used. The pots, however, became as green as if they had not been treated with copper, and I am apprehensive, therefore, that we have not yet found a sure remedy for this trouble. Last year from a twelve-inch pan and one packet of seeds we pricked off over 200 Gloxinias, about half of which flowered in six-inch pots in July-that is, in about six months from the time of sowing-and there is nothing unusual about this if good seed be used and temperature of sixty degrees be maintained at night. Many amateurs think that it does not matter much what sort of a night temperature prevails in their greenhouse so long as frost is excluded, and often, too, on a mild night it may be ten or fifteen degrees higher than it was the night before, and then they wonder why tender seeds damp off or never come up. It should be made a point to maintain the right heat from the time the seed is sown, or if this cannot be done in the coldest weather, then no more seed should be sown for another month. In most greenhouses, fortunately, there is a warm corner where a small frame may be placed to put seed-pans in and keep them at a little higher temperature than that of the house itself, just to coax the seed a little at first. After they are up even, and large enough to prick off, lift with a small forked stick and transplant. As to soil suitable for seeds, there are two cardinal points to be observed. Enough decayed leaf-mold should be added to the loam to prevent it from caking or becoming hard, and enough sand should be added to guard against its becoming sour or water-soaked. Soil of this quality and texture is suitable to receive any seed, large or small. Fertilizers are not desirable in the seed-pans or in the soil used for pricking off into boxes; but when the time comes to pot the young plants -a richer soil will be beneficial, for they need nourishing as they gain strength. Such small seeds need very little covering; the pans should be filled to within half an inch of the rim, and a little very fine soil should then be sifted over the surface. If the' pans are then well watered and allowed to drain for an hour, the seeds can be sowed evenly and a slight sprinkling of sand should be sifted over them. In watering care should be taken not to wash the sand. A fine sieve suitable for seed-sowing may easily be made with a piece of wire mosquito-netting tacked on to a shallow cigar-box after removing the bottom and the lid. This sieve will be found useful for cleaning seed, especially if wire-netting of different sizes can be procured. South Lancaster MA, O. O.

17 February 1892
Perennial Plants from Seed
For those who have greenhouses the time for seed-sowing is at hand, and a choice must be made at once of the plants upon which we are to rely for the display of the coming season. It may be a trifle early for many annuals, but all perennials of hardy kinds should now be sown if the convenience of a glass-house and a night temperature of fifty degrees can be provided. If their seed is sown now, most hardy perennials will flower this year like annuals, and will be in a way to give much better results another year. The proper method of sowing seeds has been often described in GARDEN AND FOREST, but there are minor details concerning which some caution and counsel may be acceptable to amateurs who wish to raise their own plants. Some persons may question the wisdom of going to the trouble to sow seeds when a plant can be obtained as cheaply as a packet of seed, and all the trouble incident to raising the plants avoided. I can only reply that a true lover of plants enjoys such difficulties and uncertainties as challenge his patience and skill. But there are some plants which do not produce seed. Veronica longifolia subsessilis, Dicentra spectabilis, Lychnis viscaria splendens, the double Lychnis Chalcedonica and Lychnis vespertina are cases in point. The three last named are doubleflowered forms, and the reason is plain, but in the two first named plants it is not so easy to understand why seed is never produced here. Dicentra eximia yields abundant seed at home, in Tennessee, but very seldom in New Jersey, while here again it seeds abundantly. The flowers of Dicentra have to be punctured by bees to obtain the nectar within, and perhaps the agency of various insects may explain this case. Among the plants that may be sown now to flower the first year are most of the Coreopsis, many Campanulas, Centaurea montana, Scabiosa Caucasica, Delphiniums of the formosum and grandiflorum type, including all garden forms, Doronicunms, Dracocephalums, Echinacea purpurea, Globularia trichosantha, Kniphofias, Linum perenne, Lathyrus latifolius, Lychnis Chalcedonica, L. Haageana, Platycodon Mariesii, P. grandiflorum, Polemoniums, Primula auricula, Pyrethrum uliginosum, P. roseum, and the double-flowered forms. Of the kinds that will make good plants this season to flower well the next are Aquilegias, Aconitum, Agrostemma, Dianthus, Dicentra, Echinops, Geums, Gypsophilas, Helenium Hoopesii, Heuchera sanguinea,Lobelia cardinalis, Morina longifolia, Pentstemons, Saponaria ocymoides, Thermopsis Caroliniana, Statice latifolia and other varieties, Asphodelus luteus and A. albus, Primula rosea, P. Japonica, P. Sieboldii and the perennial Lupins. There are some kinds that require special treatment, such as freezing, to induce them to germinate well, and it is not wise to sow any seeds of these kinds now; if sown in September many months of care and attention is avoided. Trollius, Hellebores, Gillenia trifoliata, Anthericum liliastrum and its variety, major, are all better after freezing. Aquilegia caerulea, the beautiful Rocky Mountain Columbine, often comes poorly from seed, and it is necessary to sow every year a little seed, as the plant is a poor perennial; of one hundred plants about seventy-five will prove biennial, or die during the first winter. The seeds germinate better after freezing, but are very difficult to obtain true, and any one who is in a position to collect seed from wild plants would obtain speedy sale for it both here and in Europe. It is difficult to understand the lack of vigor in A. caerulea, while A. chrysantha, which occurs in the same region, is the most vigorous Columbine we have. These two Aquilegias, with A. Canadensis, occur together in a wild state, but never or rarely mix, because there is a month's difference in time of flowering, but when they are planted in gardens near European kinds their individuality speedily becomes lost if they are perpetuated by home-saved seed. Many of us are still hoping for the re-introduction into cultivation of the rare A. longissima, figured in an early number of GARDEN AND FOREST. Dictamnus Fraxinella seeds freely, and should be sown directly it is ripe and placed in a shady place away from frost, when it will germinate in the spring following, and the same is true of all the Alstromerias, though these latter when purchased are often old, and then sometimes take longer than one year to germinate. I have never been able to determine the exact rule of their conduct. Sometimes the seeds germinate freely when not freshly gathered, but oftener the reverse is true. Seed of A. aurantiaca gathered last fall and sown at once is now coming up nicely, while purchased seed sown a year ago is only just appearing. Romneya Coulteri is a plant that has puzzled many who have tried to raise it from seed; but a correspondent in California writes that it will not germinate until two years after sowing, whether the seed be fresh or not. I have from the same source seeds, both old and new, sowed in the same box, hoping to test the matter. If seeds sometimes fail it is not always the fault of the dealer, but the lack of knowing just how to treat them. Very small seeds, such as those of Campanula Carpatica, are good, as a rule, for one year only, and will not grow when kept longer. They seem to become moldy in the moist atmosphere of dogdays. There is always abundant room for study in the matter of seed and seed-sowing, and the more one learns with regard to perennials the more learning seems to be at fault. In old times, if seeds failed to grow, we used to blame the dealer, and the matter was settled, but sometimes after throwing out the pans a few seed that chanced to be washed over begin to grow, and then we wonder why. Any one with a garden loses half its charm if he does not grow plants from seeds and watch them develop. Our best Orchid-growers say buy newly imported plants. You have to wait longer to see them flower, but you have the pleasure of doing your own selecting, and so it is with all plants raised from seed, whether they are annuals, perennials, tender or hardy. South Lancaster MA, O. O.

2 March 1892
Pyrethrums
Within the past few years both the double and single varieties of these fine border perennials have been improved to such a degree that it is hard to decide which ones to choose out of the long lists catalogued by dealers, especially since the new and high-priced varieties are naturally described as the best ever offered. It is always safe, however, to begin with welltried kinds, and add the newer ones later if they are desired. Pyrethrums have met with much favor among hardy plant growers quite recently, as it is not very long since the fact of their hardiness was announced as a discovery in some gardening papers. There need be no longer any doubt as to their ability to winter in safety, but the way to insure this is to plant them in spring, so that they are well established by fall. The one thing Pyrethrums dislike of all else is disturbance of the root; once established and let alone success is certain. They seem to have little preference as to soils. I have grown them equally well in heavy soil and in a very sandy and dry one. The single varieties, especially the colored ones, are most in demand now, and for use as cut flowers they are far preferable to the double kinds. Even for border decoration the double varieties have a somewhat lumpy appearance when in bloom, and the first rain gives them a disheveled air, while the single flowers stand up fresh and bright. For both these reasons the double varieties are gradually making room for their more natural and graceful relatives, which present at the same time the oldest and most recent phases of the development of Pyrethrum roseum. The original is a native of the Caucasus, and is one of the plants from which is obtained the insect powder of commerce. Some brief notes on propagating the most desirable varieties will explain the system which I have found satisfactory. By using it 300 plants were obtained from twenty in one year after they had been imported, and each of the 300 was better than the originals at the time of receiving them; for Pyrethrums are extremely difficult things to import successfully. As soon as frost leaves the ground these plants are among the first to show signs of growth, and when the first small leaves are developed the clumps should be lifted carefully and the soil shaken or washed off the roots, when it will be seen that all these young shoots may be easily severed from the rootstock, many of them with roots attached. Others may have no roots, and these may be placed in the propagating bench, where they will speedily root, and when they may be potted in three-inch pots and carefully nursed for a few weeks before planting in the open ground. Those shoots that have roots when detached from the parent plant may be potted and placed at once in a cold frame, where they will grow on as if nothing had happened, and will even produce flowers in their season, but these are best pinched off as soon as they show, as this will induce the plant to make side shoots and become a much stronger plant for the next season. This method of propagation is very simple, and with a cold frame even a novice may increase plants in this way if he begins in time-that is, before the plants have made too much growth. If the work is delayed until the leaves are more advanced, and the sunshine is stronger, the plants will require shading, which will weaken them. The winter cold has few terrors for established Pyrethrums, but a hot dry summer after first planting them is most trying. Pyrethrums, like most other hardy plants, may be easily raised from seed, and is a good way to form a collection quickly where they are required in quantity for cutting purposes. Named kinds may be acquired as chances offer. It seems scarcely necessary to name any kinds as being better than others. I have found that both French and English raisers have a set peculiar to themselves, and there is very little, if any, choice between them. A list taken from all would be too large for the needs of most gardens. It is quite difficult to obtain a good named set without importing them, which is perhaps explained by the fact that the annual demand is so great that growers find it hard to increase their stock rapidly enough to meet it. When the first cost is considered and the usual losses added, it is not surprising that so few are grown to name. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

23 March 1892
The Flower-garden
In the best gardens it is found that hardy perennials alone are not as satisfactory as when plants of other characters are judiciously mingled with the permanent occupants of the border. Many hardy plants flower early and die down at midsummer, and something must be provided to take their place, if for no other purpose than to cover the ground for the remainder of the season. The easiest way to do this is to sow, or plant, annuals in the vacant spaces, to fill up the gaps, and perhaps to render other services which we have not taken into account. On this side of the Atlantic we have as yet heard nothing of the dread disease that attacks Narcissus-bulbs, known as basal-rot. No doubt our drier summers, which prevent superfluous moisture around the bulbs during the resting period, enable them to enjoy a marked season of rest after the foliage begins to die down. To do this, European growers sometimes have to lift their stock of certain kinds to ensure thorough ripening and complete rest, and American cultivators sometimes ask if it is necessary to lift the bulbs annually, the impression that it is being probably derived from foreign periodicals and practice. It has never seemed to me essential to lift any bulbs except for purposes of division; and perhaps on retentive soils, which hold considerable moisture even in dry weather, the planting of annuals over them may have an excellent effect by appropriating this surplus water and such nutriment as the bulbs are unable to assimilate when at rest. Last year China Asters proved a complete success over the Narcissus-bulbs, the latter commencing to make new roots when the heavy fall rains came that put an end to the Asters. The basal-rot is, unfortunately, only too common here among certain species of Lilies. When lifting a refractory kind we have too often seen it tumble apart, leaving but a few of the inner scales adhering to the root-stock. Lilium excelsum, L. Brownii, L. Pyrenaicum and the non-rhizomiferous Californian species are well-known instances, as too many of us can testify. This disintegration must not be confounded with the Lily disease proper, which is quite another thing. If planters would try these delicate Lilies among other plants, even among the dwarfer shrubs, where they would have to fight more or less for an existence, the results would be far more satisfactory. I have seen L. Pyrenaicurn (a most refractory kind) naturalized among rank grass, holding its own year after year and filling the air with its fragrance. Lilies are not exacting in their demands, and I think we usually err in kindness to them. We give them rich soil when decayed leafmold would be better, and we keep the soil about them religiously free from plants that would shade the surface of the soil, and keep it moist in hot weather, and absorb by root action any superabundance of moisture when the bulbs are resting. Besides strictly bulbous plants there are many herbaceous ones which die down early, such as the beautiful Corydalis nobilis, so rarely seen in gardens; Mertensia Virginica, the Oriental Poppies, all Trilliums, some of the Dicentras and Ranunculus. With a little forethought and less trouble, at least two distinct effects should be obtained in a border planted with hardy plants. The plants to use will readily occur to those who wish to try the plan;-Asters, Zinnias, Stocks, Mignonette, Candytuft, annual Poppies and Larkspurs, with such summerflowering bulbs as Gladiolus, Tigridias, Milla biflora, Tritomas and Montbretias, these latter being lifted and stored in the cellar in fall. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

30 March 1892
Flower Garden Notes
It is in season to note a few of the desirable plants for the summer garden, both annual and perennial. We have many plants that are perennial if wintered over where the space can be spared for them. One of these is the beautiful Grass, Pennisetum longistylum. Last summer, when planted the length of a wide border in front of greenhouses, it was very attractive, and it will be better known in future, though it is by no means new. Pennisetum grows about two feet high, and can easily be raised from seed of good quality, but it can also be easily propagated by dividing the roots and starting them in small pots in spring. Our plants are now stored in a cellar with other tender plants and must now be divided and started into growth to produce good effect early in summer. The same is true of the Cannas, called dwarf, the more recent varieties of which are distinctly in advance of all others. The Star of I891 is now a fine sight in full flower in the greenhouse here. We have eighty plants from one obtained last spring, it propagates so readily by division. A bed of this Canna alone, seen last summer, was very attractive and worthy of reproduction by those who have the plants at their disposal. When planted out, the Canna Star of I891 grows to a height of about five feet, but under potculture it becomes a handsome plant, rarely more than three feet high.
The newer strains of Dahlias are to be recommended, especially the dwarf ones, both single and double. The staking, which is usually necessary with other kinds, is not needed for these plants, as they make a handsome bed of themselves. In this locality Dahlias are a complete failure after the Chrysanthemum fly appears. These insects sting the growing tips of the shoots and buds and that is the end of the display for the season. I have noticed in cottage gardens by roadsides, where the Dahlias can hardly be recognized for the dust that covers them, that they flower freely and the insects do not trouble them.
The Marguerite Carnations are rapidly gaining in favor, and have already passed through the "novelty" stage or crisis, which means usually fifty per cent single flowers if double ones are promised. These carnations, now offered in separate colors, are fragrant and free-blooming, but to get the most out of them they should be sown at once in heat, if this has not already been done, to be pricked off singly and transferred later to the place where they are to flower. They will need careful staking to prevent them from becoming storm-beaten when in bloom. Of China Asters tried last summer, Queen of the Market proved the best of all for cutting purposes, and was also the earliest to flower. The stems were stiff and of good length. Peach-blossom is a pretty shade of pink, and when grown in quantity produced a very pleasing effect, as did also the dark crimson General Jacqueminot, quite the best dark Aster I have met. With Mignonette, the Giant Crimson has proved the best and most vigorous variety indoors and outside in summer. The spikes are large, of a pleasing color and as fragrant or more so than any other kind. Mignonette requires a moist soil or plenty of water applied to keep it going all the summer, and then the more they are cut the better the plants will flower, and the same is true of Sweet Peas. There is a threatened scarcity of the supply of Sweet Pea-seeds, and the price has been raised accordingly by some dealers. These should be among the first seeds sown out-of-doors, so that it is wise to obtain them early. If the flowers are picked clean every day they will continue to appear until frost comes. When once allowed to seed, then flowering is over.
For forwarding the numerous tender annual seeds nothing is better than a gentle hot-bed. When the fermenting material used is four to five feet thick and covered with about six inches of soil, the pots and pans may be plunged in it and receive a gentle warmth that will greatly help germination, and afterward serve as a place for forwarding the young seedlings when pricked out until time for planting out. Those who have only a cold frame in winter should excavate within it to the required depth, and fill this in the spring with fermenting material that has been mixed with leaves a day or two and allowed to become warm. It can then be trodden firm in the frame and used at once for sowing seeds if six inches of soil has been placed on top. This is the best place for sowing seeds of Asters, Stocks, Zinnias, Tomatoes, Peppers, Eggplants and many more of a like character. The frame may be used in summer for Cucumbers or Melons in places where these do not thrive in the open, as, for example, in this section. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

20 April 1892
Narcissus Bulbocodium
It is a matter of surprise that this Narcissus, the Hooped Petticoat Daffodil, is not more generally known and cultivated by those who grow bulbous winter-flowering plants; while many others are grown in immense quantity, these little gems are seldom seen. When trying to obtain some bulbs last fall I was told they could not be found to the number required in any of three large cities, and they had to be imported before an order for 500 could be filled. No bulb gives more flowers in proportion to its size, as it is quite common to see five flowers to a bulb, so that when planted thickly in shallow pans the effect is very pleasing. It is possible ihat many have failed with this Narcissus because of attempts to force it. Under this treatment nothing but leaves will be produced, as is the case with the Snowdrop or Crocus. After being potted they should be wintered in a cold frame until the end of February, when the flowers will be produced with very little heat in a greenhouse or in a sitting-room window. N. Bulbocodium is of a bright yellow in the typical plant, but there is a variety known as Citrinus that has flowers of a lovely lemon-yellow, but this form cannot yet be obtained in quantity at reasonable prices. This last remark applies also to N. cyclamineus, the Cyclamen-flowered Narcissus, which to me is the prettiest of the whole genus. Its dainty and quaint appearance, so different from all others, makes one wish it would live longer in cultivation, but complaints are common that after once flowering it dwindles away, and such has been my experience. Mr. Barr, the Narcissus specialist, tells us it needs a moist situation when planted out; but, then, a New England winter is vastly different from that of Portugal, and planting outdoors here is not to be thought of. This kind was lost to cultivation for over one hundred years, owing possibly to the difficulty in growing it, and now that it is rediscovered there is a danger of its being exterminated by collectors unless better success is obtained with it under cultivation. South Lancaster MA, O. O.

4 May 1892
Flower Garden Notes
These are busy times in the hardy flower-garden; all protective coverings have been removed, and plants are coming up vigorously. No time should be lost in moving plants now, as the less growth they make before they are planted the more certain the success the coming season. Some plants never do so well as when planted while small where they are to remain, and I am convinced that this is one of the secrets of success with that beautiful Columbine, Aquilegia glandulosa. Many people prefer large plants, and it must be admitted that, in some cases, they are desirable, but many of the more robust sorts, such as Delphiniums, Campanulas, Aquilegias and Phlox, grow with greater vigor if they are transplanted when small. The first flower in the garden this season was Primula denticulata nivalis, the white form of a well-known Himalayan Primrose. The spikes of flowers come before the foliage, as in P. rosea, and are pure white, with a yellow eye. These were raised from seed a year ago and planted in a shady corner in a group with P. rosea, which is now also in bloom. The typical P. denticulata is also perfectly hardy, and the flowers are lilac-colored. P. cortusoides is also in flower, and is a pretty little species, often said to be the same as P. Sieboldii, but there is a vast difference from a garden standpoint, the last-named plant being much better, the numerous varieties making a charming group in themselves. We are so accustomed to seeing P. Sieboldii grown indoors in pots that we are apt to forget how well it thrives outside in a shady moist situation if slightly covered in winter, as the roots are rhizomatous and easily lifted by frost. Those who possess a rock-garden would do well to try these Primulas, selecting for them moist shady nooks. The sun in summer is more distressing to them than the cold of winter. Auriculas are now in full beauty in cold frames. These are so easily managed in this way that they ought be taken up by many who can afford a frame in a shady place in summer. A bunch of Auriculas when cut makes a sweeter and prettier nosegay than almost any other Primrose. The old-fashioned double white Primrose has been in bloom more than a month, and is now turning pink, but it has been in bloom in good condition for a longer time than usual with Primulas. This was wintered with the Auriculas, and is very easily propagated by division; seeds are not produced. The long-continued dry weather is somewhat unusual at this season, as we have had no rain for four weeks, and the consequence is manifest in the Narcissus-beds; the flowers are coming short-stemmed, and water is sadly needed at the roots. This season, as last, N. bicolor praecox was in bloom a week before any other kind, and a few days ago it was the only kind in bloom, but Ard Righ, N. obvallaris, and Golden Spur soon followed, and we have now over a dozen kinds in full bloom. There is a great future for Golden Spur and Countess of Annesley (the Castlewellan Daffodil), the last being especially free-blooming and vigorous, increasing threefold annually. By the time this is published the best kinds will all be in bloom. Salvia argentea is a plant usually grown as an annual for the beauty of its foliage, and in the early part of the day when sparkling with dew it presents a pretty picture in the front row of a border. It was a surprise to see plants set out last year coming up strong and unharmed by the winter, as there are no other Salvias that will live out unhurt in this locality, and even the garden Sage has to be treated as an annual. Every spring one is tempted to ask why Mertensia Virginica is so seldom seen in gardens, since there is nothing more beautiful in its season. It is very plentiful and easily obtained in some sections, but rarely seen in gardens. The beautiful blue flowers last well when cut. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

11 May 1892
Euphorbia Jacquiniaeflora
This plant, a very old inhabitant of our greenhouses, is more correctly known as E. fulgens, but to the present generation of gardeners it will be the more familiar by the old name. Like E. pulcherrima, which is also better known as Poinsettia, it is a native of Mexico, and both are naturalized in Florida in the Orange belt, and makea gorgeous display at Christmas-time out-of-doors. It is well known that it is the colored bracts of the Poinsettia which make it so conspicuous, but in its near relative it is the flowers themselves that are ornamental. These are produced in short axillary racemes at the extremities of the shoots, and the quantity of flowers depends entirely on the strength of the shoots. For this reason we prefer to grow the plants on quickly to a single stem, not pinching the tops out at all, as one good stout spray twelve to eighteen inches in length studded with bright orange-scarlet flowers is much preferable for cutting purposes to smaller sprays, even if more numerous. Under pot-culture, E. Jacquiniaeflora has a rather bad reputation, it being somewhat liable to die off just above the soil. Too much or too little water will produce this result, but we find that when planted out in benches in an ordinary Rose-house temperature a vigorous healthy growth can be obtained, with very little danger from the trouble referred to, with an abundance of bloom at a season when cut flowers are in great demand. Another feature of this plant is, that the flowers will be produced on the plants in succession for more than two months, so that there is no trouble in saving them for any special purpose or occasion. It is well known that Poinsettias wilt badly when cut and put in water, but if cut and the whole stems submerged in water, and the bracts allowed to float for about twenty-four hours, this difficulty may be entirely overcome, and the same treatment can be given to the Euphorbia. This was discovered quite by accident, when a lot of wilted branches of Poinsettias were placed in a bath-tub to preserve the bracts; the sterns are capable of absorbing a quantity of water and storing it for use. We find Euphorbias root easily when the young shoots are taken off close to the old stems, or "with a heel," as it is termed by propagators. These are potted up when rooted, and grown on into four-inch pots, and from these transferred to their permanent places in benches wherever there is root-room. The growth made is somewhat slender, and does not shade or otherwise interfere with other occupants of the house or benches, and the temperature and soil of a Rosehouse suit them admirably. South Lancaster MA, O. O.

25 May 1892
Aquilegia Stuartii
Tbis Columbine has been described as the most beautiful of all cultivated kinds, and as the plants are just flowering with us for the first time from seed, I wish to add my testimony to its excellence. Its parents are said to be Aquilegia ccerulea, a North American species, and A. glandulosa, which is of Siberian origin. The plant shows plainly by its very dwarf foliage the influence of A. glandulosa, but the flowerstems are longer than those of that species, although not more than eighteen inches high, while the flowers are large in proportion, being four inches across. The petals are dark blue and the centre white, so that in general appearance the flowers resemble a good variety of A. ccerulea, but the spurs are shorter. Taken altogether, A. Stuartii is an improvement on its parents, both of which have a rather doubtful reputation as good border-plants. A. coerulea has a provoking way of dying after flowering, and sometimes before, and A. glandulosa rarely does well in gardens unless raised from seed and set out where it is to remain. Stuart's Columbine is probably the only authentic hybrid from A. glandulosa, the seeds of which differ from all others, being of a dull opaque black, and the seeds of A. Stuartii are similar, while the seeds of other Columbines are of a bright shining black. A. Stuartii, we believe, was raised in Scotland, and was first distributed by Mr. Wm. Thompson, of Ipswich, England. It should be remarked, also, that this Aquilegia is very early in flower; there was no other species in bloom when it first opened, not even the native A. Canadensis, and now all other varieties will be sacrificed as they flower to be sure that seeds can be saved true. In this way only can Aquilegias be perpetuated by seed. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

8 June 1892
Hardy Narcissus
Thw season of these spring-flowering bulbs commenced here about the 20th of April with N. bicolor praecox (Hartland). There were blossoms of this variety open seven days before any other. These were quickly followed by Ard-Righ, Countess of Annesley, Golden Spur, Henry Irving and General Gordon. All of these varieties are Ajax or Trumpet Daffodils, and they are also all yellow. With us these kinds came into flower in the order named. I learned after the bulbs of ArdRigh were planted that "garden-soil kills them." Ard-Righ, Leda, and the white varieties, N. Moschatus, N. cernuus pulcher, N. pallidus precox and William Goldring, require conditions different trom those under which the rest of the family thrive. They are hardy; the trouble appears to be with their digestion, and rich soil seems too strong a diet. N. Moschatus is fast dwindling away. Next fall all these varieties will be planted among grass. The flowers of N. cernuus pulcher are very chaste and beautiful, as are those of William Goldring, which is later flowering than the other varieties of the section known as the Swan's-neck Daffodils. Leda was a complete failure; from the few bulbs planted not one perfect flower was produced. Of the Ajax varieties Countess of Annesley is the best with us; it is almost as early as ArdRigh and Golden Spur, and has a much more expanded trumpet. It does remarkably well in ordinary garden-soil, and it has also the merit of being cheap. The old N. trumpet maximus is perhaps the richest-colored Daffodil grown, and is good in every way. Tlough not an early-flowering kind, it comes in with Empress and the best of the Bicolors. N. rugilobus is free-flowering and does well. Bulbs planted two seasons have this year produced five to seven flowers to a bulb. This variety resembles Emperor, but is smaller; the outer edge of the trumpet is beautifully set at right angles as if hammered out.
The Saragossa Daffodil is an early-flowering variety, but is much too dwarf for border-culture, the first showers bespattering the flowers as they scarcely reach more than three inches above the soil. It would be a good variety for pot-culture, owing to its earliness, and planted in a rock-garden it could be brought more on a level with the eye. This variety is of Spanish origin, and flowers freely. King Umberto is distinct from all others in having a deep yellow stripe down the centre of a paler yellow perianth; the trumpet is large; it is a desirable variety, though of no use for cut flowers. Golden Plover, General Gordon and Emperor may be called secondarly varieties, as they flowered about May Ist. It is curious to note how differently plants behave in this climate from that in which they were grown for sale. N. bicolor praecox came first, but in regular order, but N. muticus, which was expected to be the last, was a very close second, and was in full bloom with the earliest kinds.
It was intended to have a nice lot of very late-flowering bicolors, and one hundred bulbs were planted. Our compensation lies in the fact that no two of the flowers were alike; some of the perianths were twisted, some were not, and the length-of the rich yellow trumpet varied a good deal. All were alike in being cylindrical and cut off abruptly at the end. In this variety the flowers developed somewhat before the foliage, but next season they may behave differently. It is a very interesting kind to grow both on account of the shape and variability. The N. Johnstoni varieties are high-priced, and will probably never become popular even if cheap. Mr. Johnston once sent us a small importation direct of what he called N. Johnstoni. There are now several varieties of this type, and the kinds vary in themselves almost as much as between one another. Mr. Johnston stated that the bulbs should be protected from frost, but they are quite hardy, and do well in the open ground. It is scarcely necessary, in this connection, to say much regarding Emperor, the finest yellow Trumpet kind we have. Our spring season has been one of exceptional dryness, there having been only one slight shower during six weeks. The flowers have consequently lacked substance, and in some cases the coloring was deficient, more especially in the Leedsi and Barri sections, where the cups are stained with orange in the normal coloring. South Lancaster MA, O.

22 June 1892
Hardy Plant Notes
The hardy perennial borders are now in their best condition, since the season, though late, has been favorable for all plants of this description, and none have been injured by late frosts, as is often the case. The Oriental Poppies are now in their glory, and force all other flowers in the background with their strong color. The true Papaver bracteatum, though considered a form of P. orientale, is by far the best Poppy grown as to color. Carefully selected seeds of P. bracteatum will not come true, but will revert to the common P. orientale, so that it is necessary to propagate it from rootcuttings. Pieces of root an inch long are a suitable size. If taken when the plants die down soon after midsummer, these should be dibbled into sand to start them and may be planted out in fall or wintered over in a cold frame, and they should flower the next season. A variety obtained in seed as P. bracteatum praecox is no earlier and differs in no way from the common P. orientale, though we had hoped better of it. The variety sent out some time ago as P. Parkmanni does not seem to be any different from an ordinary Oriental Poppy, though distributed at a high price and with a great flourish. It is well to remark that Oriental Poppies vary more than is supposed from seed, and it is difficult to find any two that are exactly alike, both in color and in the markings at the base of the petals.
Lindelofia spectabilis praecox, we are told, is often sold in Europe for Mertensia Virginica, our beautiful native Lungwort, though it is difficult to understand why, as the plant has nothing in common with Mertensia except that it belongs to the same order, Boraginaceae. The Lindelofia is perfectly hardy, though a native of Kashmir, and bears a quantity of bright blue flowers for several weeks at this season. Seeds are very slow to germinate, often taking several months, and they always come unevenly. This is a monotypic genus, and the flowers of L. spectabilis are said to be purple-red, a very different combination from that of our plants, which are of a real Gentian blue. Flowers of a different color, even on the same stem, are common in this family, as in the Borage, Mertensia, and in a plant now in bloom called Caccinia strigosa. This plant is a native of Afghanistan, and has wintered out safely; its chief beauty, however, lies in its foliage, which is of a decided glaucous or grayish color, and at once arrests attention in a border of mixed plants. In this plant different flowers are both pink and blue at the same time. Our plant is not strong, but in time may improve and gain vigor, since it is now flowering for the first time from seed.
Iris Troyana belongs to the rhizomatous section of Iris, with such varieties as the German Iris, and is quite distinct in color from most of these, though of the same habit and time of flowering. I cannot find any account of the species published, and am at a loss to know more of the plant, as it is hardy, and is in bloom in eighteen months from seed, quite an unusual occurrence for an Iris.
I wrote of Lathyrus tuberosus last year as a very pretty hardy tuberous-rooted Pea, all of which is true, and it is equally true that this Pea, like Apios tuberosa, has the remarkable ability for coming up in all places but the one in which it is planted. Though the plant is exceedingly pretty when in bloom, it is not fit for a flower-border, as it spreads too rapidly and takes hold of other plants and chokes out. But if planted where it could be left to its own way of growing, as in a wild-garden, it would be a thing of beauty many weeks.
Adlumia cirrhosa, or Climbing Fumitory, is a graceful twining plant in the second year of its growing, with small inconspicuous flowers of very little value, but we find the plant of much use when raised in spring and planted out where it will quickly form a dense mass of most elegantly cut leaves, which makes a good substitute for Maiden Hair Fern with cut flowers, and lasts much longer. We used these leaves all last summer, and saved the Fern for winter use. The second year the Adlumia loses all its tufted habit and throws up tall'stems that need support, as it is a true climber. Unlike most of this family, the Adlumia is readily obtained from seed sown early in spring. Another of the Fumitory family recently noted in these pages is Corydalis nobilis, a truly noble border-plant when well grown, but very seldom seen in gardens. It needs to be left alone when once planted, as the roots have the appearance of being half-decayed. These are easily obtained in fall from Holland with the Dutch bulbs. C. nobilis is the finest of the genus, and well deserves to be much better known. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

6 July 1892
Actinidia polygama
When visiting the Amherst Agricultural College recently, Professor Brooks pointed out two fine specimens of the true Actinidia polygama growing on his dwelling-house, which he brought home with him on his return from Japan after a twelve years' sojourn there. It appears that the species of Actinidia now in commerce, and called A. polygama, is A. arguta, a very different plant from the one here noted. A. arguta is a rampant grower, and when used on a dwelling house soon shuts out all sunlight from the piazza, and then gets on the roof and displaces the eave-troughs in a way which renders continual cutting necessary to keep it within reasonable limit. When this plant was introduced into this country it was said that cats were very partial to A. polygama in Japan, but the American cat was found to be sublimely indifferent to A. arguta. The true species, however, Professor Brooks has found it necessary to protect about the base with wire guards, for, in his words, it out-Catnips Catnip as an attraction for these animals. This may be a peculiar way of verifying a species, but the evidence certainly seems admissible and to the point.
In appearance the plants have nothing in common. A. arguta is a vigorous grower, with heart-shaped foliage of a deep olive-green, and flowers that are polygamous, a feature which, perhaps, first caused the mistake in nomenclature. The plants of A. polygama, which Professor Brooks has, are not rampant, but vigorous enough for any decorative purpose where a twining plant is required, the principal beauty being in the foliage, which is for the most part of a beautiful peagreen, while about' one-third of the foliage is suffused (not variegated) with an indescribable silvery lustre, often covering the whole leaf, but sometimes only a part of it, and beginning always at its base. When I first saw the plants with the sun shining on them and glistening in the light, I was compelled to ask if this was caused by the sunshine, but was soon shown that the color was permanent. Were the whole of the foliage silvered in this way the effect probably would not be half as beautiful.
The flowers of A. polygama are about the size and color of an Orange-blossom, but with a sweet perfume peculiarly their own. It is much to be regretted that the nomenclature of Japanese plants gets so badly mixed up, as years will pass before the names of the Actinidia can be trusted as correct in catalogues. The plants of Professor Brooks are certainly of great ornamental value.
Among other things brought over by the Professor are a fine young specimen of the Japanese Lacquer-tree (Rhus vernicifera) and many beautiful varieties of Japanese Maples, especially the cut-leaved kinds. Some very dwarf forms of Retinosporas were here also - peculiar reminders of a peculiar country. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

20 July 1892
Perennial Larkspurs
After a long waiting and vexatious experiences with seed, Delphinium Zalil is now in flower in the garden, where it was planted in the spring of last year. This novelty is one of Dr. Aitchison's discoveries in Afghanistan, and when first described as a lemon-yellow Larkspur hardy-plant lovers were all asking for it, but as it was distributed by means of seeds, and these germinate only when fresh-gathered, many were the disappointments. Our own plants are from fresh seeds kindly sent me by Herr Max Leichtlin in the fall of 1890. These germinated readily, and were wintered over in the greenhouse and set out in spring, where they grew freely for a time, and then disappeared to come up vigorously again and flower this year. I mention this as a recognized authority has described D. Zalil as an annual, which it certainly is not, neither could it be called a biennial, for, supposing that the plant completes its existence after flowering, of which I am not sure, even then it takes more than two seasons' growth to get it strong enough to flower. D. Zalil belongs to a section of Delphiniums which has many representatives in the United States - namely, those that spring from a fleshy root-stock and die down as soon as seed is matured to spring up again the following year. These are not well known in gardens, though some are well worthy of cultivation, such as D. tricorne, which is widely distributed through the southern and western states. D. azureum is another species of which the same may be said. The specific name of D. Zalil is the native name. Since a yellow die is extracted from the roots in Afghanistan, another name, D. sulphureum, was given the plant when first distributed, but D. Zalil has priority, though the synonym describes the color accurately. With us the plants are three feet high, with much-branched flowerstems, while the flowers resemble those of D. cardinale and D. nudicaule in shape. The habit of the plant is slender and the foliage very finely divided; more so than in any other known species. As a garden plant D. Zalil is insignificant compared with the beautiful double forms of the garden Larkspur, and would be passed by without remark by many, still it is of much interest to those who love for other aualities than mere showiness.
While on the subject of Delphiniums, has any reader had experience with the Larkspur disease, or smut? It attacks the flower-spikes and completely blackens them, in some cases crippling the unopened flowers so that they never develop at all. It is getting to be a question here whether we can have Larkspurs or not. Two years ago there were infected plants in the garden that were purchased, and in this way the disease was introduced. These were all destroyed, and a new lot raised from seed, and this year it is apparent in many plants again, and my experience teaches that next year Larkspurs will be a complete failure here. The old reliable, D. formosum, is as liable to it as any others of garden origin. This smut has much the same effect as that which attacks the Corn, and is probably an allied species. Certainly the disease should be investigated by some mycologist. D. Cashmirianum is a species that is perfectly hardy and distinct from all others. It has dense panicles of large flowers, but the color is not a pleasing one, being a dull purplish blue. It is not very desirable as a garden plant except as a single specimen. A short time ago a so-called white form was distributed, and this proves to be of a decided greenish white, and even less attractive than the typical plant.
Too much cannot be said for the Larkspurs of garden origin, especially the double varieties, and it is worth repeating, now that they are in flower, that if the double varieties are marked when in bloom, and seed saved from them, this will produce fully seventy-five per cent of double-flowered plants. Named varieties are very short-lived, as hardy-plant dealers know, and have to be reimported often from Europe, as they cannot be raised true from seed, and, indeed, seed is but sparingly produced from double flowers, but the seedlings are usually strong enough and able to withstand the climate here where the parents fail. Larkspurs are gross feeders, and need a rich soil that never dries out, and therefore the heavier the soil the better. In a damp position they will grow six to eight feet high, with long spikes of flowers, which may be cut as soon as they fade, and another crop of flowers will come on later. Seedlings flower the first year, but do not attain full strength until the second season.
A word should, perhaps, be added with regard to D. Przewalskyanum, now in flower for the first time here. It was sent out a year ago, and grew vigorously last summer and wintered out well, and is now about four feet high, with spikes of pale creamy white flowers that are small, and in no way attractive from a garden point of view. The foliage is ornamental, being prettily cut, of a deep green, spotted with a paler green. It is of Asiatic origin, and, like a species from Yunnan grown last year, without name, is rather disappointing. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.
[We have received specimens of the diseased Delphiniums, and the trouble seems to come from a mite and not from a fungus. Professor Halsted thinks that if the affected plants are wet with cold water the increase of the mite will be checked.-ED.]

10 August 1892
Hardy Narcissus
The time is at hand when Narcissus bulbs may be transplanted with safety, and often with benefit. The individuals in old-established clumps of these plants are often so cramped for space that only the outside bulbs flower at all, and often when these are lifted and replanted no flowers are produced the next season for the reason that there had not been room enough for the proper development of the flower-buds in the bulb. Some persons have therefore concluded that their bulbs came of poor stock or had deteriorated, but a season of good growth will usually put them in a condition to flower profusely. Any one who wishes to move bulbs of the Poet's Narcissus, whether of the type N. Poeticus, or any of its varieties, should do so as soon as the foliage begins to turn yellow, and not wait, as is best with other kinds, until the leaves have died off completely. The reason for this is simple, and it is important that it should be understood; the fact is, that this Narcissus is never completely at rest, for new roots are produced before the old ones have decayed, and several weeks before the leaves have died down completely. Our bulbs of N. Poeticus and its varieties are lifted already, and in a cool airy place, where they are rapidly drying off, when they will be replanted in another situation among grass. The flowers of this section are not desirable for room-decoration in a cut state, owing to their powerful fragrance; consequently they are removed from the border and placed where they will require less attention, and also to make room for the other kinds, most of which have increased threefold in two years from planting. When planting Narcissus I find it is a great advantage to place at least a handful of coarse sand under the bulb; the difference between bulbs so planted and others planted in the ordinary way is very strongly marked when lifting-time comes. Those planted with sand have not a trace of decay at the base, while others do show symptoms of this dread disease, though there appear no actual losses therefrom, although I was rather apprehensive of danger before taking up the bulbs in our collection of over seventy kinds. When we consider how great are the ravages of this disease in Europe, this is a matter for congratulation, but past experience has led me to the conclusion that the long dry periods we experience during the resting-season of Narcissus is a safeguard against attacks of basal-rot, and that the bulbs will remain perfectly sound if no disturbing element in the shape of decomposing fertilizers be admitted to contact with the bulbs when planted. If the texture of the soil be correct - that is, of a porous nature - then fertilizers can be applied as a top-dressing in fall, when rootaction commences, and the rains will wash it down to the roots. August is the best time to obtain bulbs when new plantings are to be made. Narcissus should be in the ground and making roots about the usual time of purchasing them - that is, when the Dutch bulbs arrive here. There is no reason why we should not obtain Narcissus as early as we do Roman Hyacinths or Lilium Harrisii, and dealers would be quick to respond to inquiries for Narcissus were they made at an earlier date than is the custom, and to the purchaser the results would be far better than when planting is delayed until October, for all root-growth is suspended in November on account of frost, before the bulbs have got fairly to work. If late planting must be done, a covering of dry leaves may be put over the beds, and these will keep out any but the most severe frosts almost to the end of the year in ordinary seasons, but this covering must be removed as soon as frost and snow will permit in spring, so that all growth above ground may have light and air. The question may be asked, is it necessary to keep the bulbs out of the soil for any length of time when lifting in summer, as is the custom with English growers at their annual lifting? It will bear repetition, that there is no need of lifting Narcissus annually here, but only for the sake of division. The bulbs, after drying gradually for a few days, may be cleaned of old roots and foliage, separated with care, and replanted at once, since the soil here is warm and usually dry in August, and is, therefore, a better place for storage than we could give them above ground at this season. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

24 August 1892
Francoa ramosa
The Francoas are natives of Chili and belong to the Saxifrage family. There are but three species, and all are perennial but not hardy here, though they might be successfully cultivated in the more favored sections of the eastern states as they are in some parts of England and Ireland, where they are grown as border-perennials. These introductory remarks are necessary, as I know of no firm in this country that offer either seeds or plants of any of the species. Our seeds were obtained from Mr. W. Thompson, Ipswich, England. The popular name given to the plant in question is Bridal-wreath, owing to the long-branching sprays studded with pure white flowers, and it is surprising that florists have not taken the plant in hand, for it would be invaluable for summer cutting, either for indoor use in vases or for any other purpose for which cut flowers are desired. Francoas are best grown from seeds which germinate readily, and the plants may be potted off separately and grown on to seven or eight inch pots, as they may require. The treatment given Calceolarias and Cinerarias would suit them well for the winter months. During the following summer the plants will bloom freely, producing as many as twelve sprays to a plant in a vigorous specimen, each spray being about three feet long and flowering for two-thirds of the length. For grouping among other plants, either in the open ground or in the conservatory, nothing can be more admirable than Francoa ramosa, the flowers of which are pure white. F. appendiculata is another species with flowers that have a tinge of red with the white. The sprays are not so erect as in F. ramosa, but spread more freely and produce a very pretty effect when blended with other plants.
The only other species is F. sonchifolia, with which I am not acquainted, but it is said to be equally good, resembling F. appendiculata in the color of the flowers.
The season of flowering has lasted over two months with us, and this is a good time to make cuttings of the offsets from the old plant, many of which can be procured with roots. They may be treated as young seedling plants in every particular, and should flower next summer. Seeds are also produced freely here and may be sown as soon as gathered. As they are small, they may be treated in the same way as the seeds of the Calceolaria.
Melianthus major
I see Mr. Gerard notes the beauty of Melianthus major as an ornamental foliage-plant. Too much cannot be said in its favor for this purpose. A word should be added as to the way to obtain or propagate the Melianthus. Only those who have tried cuttings know how difficult they are to root. It is rare, indeed, for any one to succeed in raising them in this way. I find that the seeds germinate as readily as those of the Castor-oil-plant, and make fine young bushy plants for use the same season. Our seeds were procured from the same source as the Francoas, and produced a nice batch of plants, one of which was left out last winter in a Rhododendron-bed and carefully protected with leaves, but it died.
In Ireland the Melianthus is perfectly hardy, and it probably would be equally so in many parts of the United States. It would pay some one in the south to cultivate the plant for the production of seeds, as with the Grevillea robusta. There would be a ready sale for the seeds when the plant became better known for use among summer decorative planting. Old roots lived over with us in the cold frame last winter after being lifted and cut back, and are now in the open border. With regard to Grevillea robusta a reliable English firm states that "seedlings are easily raised by those who can exercise patience, but we do not know any seed - not even the Auricula which is so long and so capricious in germinating." They probably have to depend on seed from New South Wales, while seeds obtained here from trees growing in Florida germinate as freely as Radishes. Seeds that are imported from the antipodes are difficult to manage, and rarely germinate well, if at all. We have tried many kinds, but with indifferent success. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

21 September 1892
Kaempfer's Iris
This Iris is more correctly called Iris laevigata, but is better known as I. Kempferi in gardens of today. These plants seem, in common with many other gems from Japan, specially adapted to American gardens. They like the sun, cold does not hurt them, and their only enemy is the rose-bug, which infests the plant during the blossoming-season. It is surprising that these Irises are not more common in gardens, since failure is possible only when the roots have not been supplied with sufficient moisture, and, indeed, they may be grown successfully as sub-aquatic plants, for if covered with ice through the winter they come out in the spring all the stronger for their stern discipline. They like best mud or a rich black soil, though they can be made to grow in the poorest soil if plentifully supplied with moisture through the summer months. They are at their best in July. There are no flowers in the hardy flower-garden through the whole season which surpass them in beauty, and it is probably to this fact that they owe their popular name of Poor Man's Orchids. The best time to plant the Japan Irises is in the fall. When the foliage begins to turn yellow they may be divided and reset. Care must be taken to give them rich soil, as they are permanent plants, and need lifting only when the clumps get too large and are starved by remaining too long in one place. The best way to divide them is to lift carefully, and use the spading-fork to separate, not cut, the plants asunder. Treated in this way they will grow stronger and flower more freely the next season. These Irises may also be planted safely in spring if grown in one's own garden, and needing transference only from one position to another; but when the plants are obtained from a distance, it is safest to procure them in the fall, as they start to grow early in the spring, and one locality varies much from another, both in the time when plants are in active growth and the time when it is possible to plant them elsewhere. Both to those who have already a collection of Japan Irises, and to those who have none, the question of what sorts to plant is of great interest, for when they were introduced to the United States and Europe, varieties were, of course, named in each country, according to the fancy of the possessor, so that we can buy sets from different dealers and stand a good chance of getting duplicates though a different name be attached. In order to avoid this it is best to make a selection at flowering-time, as growers of hardy plants are usually glad to send cut flowers of different varieties for selection. In making a collection it is best to avoid the plants which produce flowers of large diameter, as the petals of such flowers lack substance. Preference should be given to plants producing flowers of good substance or the double-flowered varieties, the blossoms of which last are beautiful and durable when cut. When buying from a catalogue the mixed varieties must be avoided. It is better far to pay the price and get good ones to start with, and then by careful selection and seed-saving to raise seedlings at home, which will flower when two years old if the seed be sown in boxes when ripe, brought on in the greenhouse in spring, transplanted when large enough indoors, and later in the open ground. Plants thus treated will all flower, and the poorest of them will be better than low-priced kinds. Indeed, I have raised as good double varieties from seed as could be found among forty sorts imported from Japan. As with many other plants, the more highly developed the flowers the less of seed we get, and the double varieties of Iris produce seed sparingly. The seed should be gathered when ripe and taken out of the capsule and cleaned, as there is a small worm that finds these seeds a comfortable place for winter quarters, feeding upon their substance as the days shorten.
The poor varieties weeded out from a lot of seedlings should not be thrown away, as they are admirably adapted for naturalizing in waste places where the soil is moist. In such positions the Japan Iris will hold its own against all other plants or weeds, and will flower year after year and reproduce itself from seed. Another point worthy of remark is, that when transplanting in the fall we should resist the temptation to cut off the foliage. The mature grass-like leaves are a great protection to the dormant buds below, and where appearances are not studied too closely the foliage should remain on the plants all winter, more especially if they have been moved, and the same remark applies to many other plants, such as Eulalias, Arundo donax and all Lilies. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

28 September 1892
Hardy Lilies
The list of Lilies that may be called perfectly hardy is a fairly large one, even after eliminating those that may possibly flower once and then disappear. Among these latter class are many very beautiful varieties, including several northwestern American species, such as Lilium parvum, L. rubescens and L. maritimum, three species with small bulbs and of dwarf habit which dwindle away under cultivation, even though most tenderly cared for. L. Columbianum, L. Humboldtii and L. Washingtonianum are tall-growing kinds in their native Sierras, and the two last-named produce immense bulbs which often lie dormant a whole year only to put forth a feeble stem that rarely flowers here in the eastern states. Deep planting has been recommended for these Californian Lilies, but it does not make them thrive; indeed, it is necessary to plant them at least twelve inches deep to prevent their premature appearance above the ground where they are cut off by late frosts in spring. Evidently there are some necessary conditions which we do not comprehend or cannot give, to make such lovely plants at home here. For the amateur, therefore, it is safe advice to plant very few of the six kinds named above. Of other Lilies that I have hitherto failed to keep, L. tenuifolium, a Siberian species, flowers once and then dies, though it is the easiest of all Lilies to raise from seed, but L. ponponium is so much superior to it in every way that it need not be further considered. L. Pyrenaicum, which should be perfectly hardy here, has always failed with me, the bulbs decaying at their base and eventually disappearing, but at its best L. Pyrenaicum would be an undesirable kind to many on account of its heavy odor. L. Martagon, the typical Turkscap Lily, with its white variety and the so-called black variety, Dalmaticum, are sometimes grown successfully in the United States, though I have never managed to keep them. It is said that they prefer a poor, stony soil. If they could be grown, the three kinds of L. Martagon would form an interesting group, and they flower early in the year. It is dismal work to have to record so many impossibilities, but it must be remembered that I am simply recording my own experience. Other persons may succeed with them, but it would be safe advice to novices to make trials of other kinds in preference at the outset. It is with a sigh that I include L. Szovitsianum with the foregoing, for, to my mind, it is the most beautiful of all Lilies, though not the most gorgeous, but the beautiful canaryyellow flowers with their deep red base never greeted my eyes but once. Their beauty is not forgotten, nor can I forget that out of a dozen bulbs but one flowered, and that was the first year after planting. The next year no bulbs were there to flower.
And now, as we consider the kinds that may be planted with hope, it must be remembered at the beginning that it is difficult to state just when they flower, because, in every locality the time would vary. L. Hansoni with me has always flowered first, and it is a beautiful Lily; the petals are thick, almost leather-like in texture, bright orange-yellow, with red spots; the plant is vigorous and free-blooming. L. pomponium, as stated before, should be in every garden, instead of L. tenuifolium, because its flowers are of the same bright orange-red, and there are many on a stem varying in number with vigor of the plant. The flowers appear early, too, and are pleasantly fragrant. L. croceum is the old-fashioned orange Lily, and is a good kind to plant where a permanent group is wanted. It is usually about three feet high when in bloom with umbels of erect orange-red flowers. L. elegans is similar in habit but not so tall when fully developed; the flowers are similar in color hut vary in different varieties, of which there are many in catalogues, but the mixed bulbs, as grown by the Dutch, give a pleasing range of color and are exceedingly cheap - in Holland. It should be stated that L. elegans is often grown under the name of L. Thunbergianum, but L. elegans is the older name. The dwarf habit of this species makes it valuable for margins of Lily-beds or borders where shrubs are planted. All are familiar with L. candidum, the Madonna Lily; it is perfectly hardy, but we grow it in pots, the same bulbs year after year, for piazza decoration in summer, and the bulbs improve in size. They are rested after flowering and repotted in July, just before growth commences, for in fall this species has green leaves all winter. L. Harrisii, the Easter Lily, and L. longiflorum are both hardy in sheltered situations with a covering of leaves in winter. The tendency with these two kinds is to start to grow the first year in fall, but after a year or two they forget all about it and come on naturally in spring. Tiger Lilies are well known as hardy, but the older variety should only be grown to complete a collection, as the kind known as L. tigrinum splendens is so much superior to it. The double variety is good for its durability when in bloom, though many do not admire the double flowers. L. excelsum of catalogues, more correctly L. testaceum, has flowers of a different color from that of any other Lily. This is a light brown or buff, and it is very distinct and ornamental. This Lily should always be planted in a collection, though it sometimes deteriorates in rich soil. In habit the plant resembles L. candidum. L.Chalcedonicum, the scarlet Turk's-cap Lily, is a native of Greece and is somewhat tender, but in favored localities it should succeed and produce its bright scarlet flowers freely enough.
Of the Japan Lilies, L. auratumn is, perhaps, the best known, and little needs to be said of it except that I never knew any one to grow the same bulbs long in such health and strength as we receive them in from Japan. The bulbs are cheap, however, and are sure to pay for themselves the first year after planting. There are many varieties of L. speciosum (often called L. lancifolium), but the best kind is that known as Rubrum, which we get from Japan direct, the Dutch variety being much inferior to it in color, and may be considered as being the typical L. speciosum. Of white-flowered forms, Album praicox is the best, because it always flowers early. The old white kind flowers later, and is sometimes killed by frost while in bud. This section of the Lily family includes varieties among the handsomest of the genus. They are perfectly hardy, increase under cultivation, and are indispensable to the hardy-flower garden. There are other varieties of L. speciosum which are but slight variations from the two named, which are the best of the section. L. Batemannae should be named in connection with L. tigrinum, which it resembles closely, except that the flowers are not spotted, but are of a clear apricot color, and desirable for that reason. The dwarf L. Wallacei has also flowers of a similar color, but does not exceed eighteen inches in height. By some it is considered but a variety of L. elegans. The bulbs are always small, but they usually flower freely and increase rapidly. L. Browni is a rare variety, with flowers similar in shape to L. Harrisii, but larger, white inside, and purplish brown outside the petals. It is exceedingly fragrant, hardy, but rather expensive, but when once planted in suitable soil does not die out. L. Krameri is a species possessing a refined beauty peculiar to itself, the flowers being of a delicate rosy pink, and borne usually one on a slender stalk. This kind requires careful nursing to induce it to do well, but it is possible to grow and flower it in sheltered positions. Lilium pardalinum is the only native western Lily that will thrive in the east, but it grows so cheerfully and luxuriantly that it really seems to be making an honest effort to atone for the bad behavior of its companions of the Sierra Nevada. With us it is as free as L. superbum, which it resembles strongly, although it flowers earlier. All of the species found in the eastern states, L. Canadense and its varieties, Rubrun and Flavum, L. superbum and L. Philadelphicum thrive well when planted in the garden, but the last-named should be planted in a dry soil not more than three inches deep. When planted the usual depth L. Philadelphicum will surely perish. Of the noble Himalayan L. giganteum, I cannot record any success, and have never seen it in bloom, but Mr. Ellwanger's experience with it, as recorded in GARDEN AND FOREST, ought to encourage others, now that we know it can be grown. The bulbs are very large, and often remain dormant a year after planting, but should start to grow the second year, although with me they did not. Of another East Indian Lily, L. Wallichianum superbum, usually considered tender, it is worthy of remark that last June, in Mr. Hunnewell's gardens at Wellesley, I saw a clump that had been outdoors in the open ground all winter, and the growth was vigorous, and promised well for bloom. If Wallich's Lily proves hardy it will be a'great addition to the Lily-border, for, under pot-culture, it usually languishes. This and its first cost has had much to with its rarity in gardens.
Lilies generally do not require a rich soil, in the usual acceptation of the phrase, but a soil rich in decayed vegetable matter is eminently suitable. Hence a compost of good loam and decayed leaf mould made porous is what is desired. There are some kinds such as L. tigrinum, L. speciosum, L. candidum and L. Harrisii, that like manure both in the soil and in the water given, but these are the most vigorous of all Lilies, and the same would not suit any of the more delicate species. The depth to plant Lilies should vary with the size of the matured bulbs. All the larger kinds may be planted the depth of the spade, about nine or ten inches, bearing in mind that the roots that do the most of the work are produced up the stalk between the bulb and surface of the sod, and if the bulb rests on the subsoil it does not matter, so long as the top soil is right. When manure is applied to the soil the bulbs should first be covered with soil free from it, or decay may be brought on by contact. The richer soil should be used for the stemroots to feed upon. The ideal position for a Lily-bed is among Rhododendrons. Where these will thrive the Lilies will, the taller kinds being used to come up through them, and the dwarfer ones near the margin of the beds. The leaves used to mulch the Rhododendrons in winter are a fine protection for the Lily-bulbs, and afford when decayed all the needful fertilizer, while the shrubs shade the surface of the soil and keep it cool and moist in summer, which is a great advantage. A bare surface soil, which radiates heat in hot weather, turns many of the leaves of Lilies yellow, and causes premature ripening of the stems.
In common with all other cultivated plants, the Lily has a disease of its own. Some collections, to my knowledge, have been completely exterminated by its ravages. It attacked our Lilies this season. It remains to be seen what the results will be next year. Rusty yellow patches on the stems and leaves tell of the work going on, and soon the stalk dies off, and the bulb is weakened for next year. I have had no opportunity for comparison, but the symptoms are unmistakable. Apart from this disease, there is no reason why we do not see more Lilies grown in gardens. Enough are forced in one year for Easter to plant bulbs in every garden in the United States, and yet how seldom do we see this family represented, except, perhaps, by a clump of Tiger-lilies that have been undisturbed for a generation, and yet live to flower and plead for attention and encouragement. South Lancaster MA, E O. Orpet.

16 November 1892
Dendrobium formosum giganteum
This Dendrobium has long been known both to science and cultivators as the finest of that section of the genus to which it belongs - namely, the Nigrohirsute, or those whose stems are clothed with short dark hairs, as in D. Jamesianum and D. infundibulum. Although D. formosum has been known to gardens for over fifty years, its cultivation in Europe does not seem hitherto to have been very successful. It is widely distributed through India and Burma, and is never found at any great altitude, but usually on the plains, where high temperatures are the rule both in winter and summer, with rain in some districts eleven months in the year. From these few facts, made known by those who had seen the plants growing, it has been hitherto thought necessary to grow D. formosum in the hottest house the year round, and we may add that it is fortunate that the plant is plentiful in India, otherwise we should not be able to procure it at such a low rate as we can at present. All plants need a season of rest, and, even though they come from the hottest regions of the globe, nature has provided for this period of rest in various ways. In Veitch's Manual we are told that "the plants are sometimes exposed to a temperature of 110 degrees, Fahrenheit, in the shade, when the stems are much reduced in size by the heat." During the growing season we keep the plants suspended in the house where Calanthes are grown, which is now kept at seventy degrees at night, and our plants have done remarkably well this season; the old bulbs made in their native woods are in some cases surpassed in size by those made this year, and they are now commencing to flower freely. After the flowering season the plants will be wintered in a temperature of fifty degrees at night in a cooler house, until signs of growth are apparent next March or April, when all the heat and moisture available will be given and maintained until the flowering season is passed. Under this treatment Mr. George MacWilliam, of Whitinsville, Massachusetts, has grown and exhibited in Boston, perhaps, the finest D. formosum ever seen in cultivation, and this fact appears to be due to the long rest given in the cooler temperature. D. formosum is an exceedingly ornamental plant when in bloom, as the foliage of the past and present year is often retained on the plants as a set-off to the large pure white flowers, which are sometimes four inches in diameter, the lip having a conspicuous yellow blotch, varying in some plants from bright orange to pale lemon-yellow. The flowers are very durable, lasting several weeks in perfection. As the plants seem to grow best when suspended from the roof of the house, basket-culture or perforated pans seems the best treatment for them, as the roots like to ramble, and seem to resent confinement in pots. I have seen it stated that wood-lice do not feed on living roots of Orchids, being content to live on decayed portions, but I am satisfied that they are very partial to the roots of this Dendrobium, and for this reason the plants are often plunged in water a few minutes to drive out the wood-lice, when they are easily caught. It should be stated that this species flowers with the completion of growth, hence the rest is given after the flowering period, while in the majority of Dendrobiums the resting season precedes the flowering time. The statement of some eminent authorities that horticulture is necessarily an empirical art, seems to be supported by the fact that it takes a temperature of 110 degrees to rest this plant in Burma, while we can accomplish the same result by reducing the temperature twenty degrees from normal, while we could not imitate the conditions noted under which the plant grew at home. South Lancaster MA, O.

16 November 1892
Potting Soils
Here in New England, as in most eastern states, it is highly important that a supply of potting material be laid in under cover for the winter's use, and there is no better time to see that the main supply is sufficient to last until after midsummer next. Rose-growers and others are beginning to appreciate the importance of laying in a stock of loam suited to their purpose, and placing it where it can be thoroughly well frozen during winter. I am puzzled to know which are the worst foes of the gardener and florist - those of fungoid origin or insects and true worms after their kind. Of this animal class I feel sure we should have less to dread if our soils were carefully laid in when convenient, and not stacked up in heaps to exclude frost. If its kindly influence were rather invited and allowed to penetrate every inch of the soil, we should hear less of root-gall and eel-worms on Violets, Roses, Carnations, Cyclamens and other plants. Where it is not possible to freeze soil, and insect foes are prevalent, the other extreme must be adopted, and a system of heating the soil should be adopted. There is nothing new in heating the soil to kill insects in the egg and in other stages of growth. I well remember when a boy seeing my father bake his leaf-mold before he dared to use it for choice plants and Ferns. Our most careful attention should be given that the loam is of a good texture; we can make it as rich as we please afterward. Above all, we should see to it that we are not driven to scrape around to get enough soil together at the last moment for our needs. Here is where the trouble begins, which develops and spreads with such fatal effects later on. While I do not advocate storing soil for any length of time before using - six months is long enough - it is a great gain to have all the vegetable matter thoroughly well decomposed before handling it, for in this way much labor will be saved which would otherwise be needed in future weeding.
It was once considered necessary to the successful growth of the commonest plants, as the Carnation or Auricula, to have a great number of ingredients in the soil and in the most exact proportions. Much of this care in compounding soils has passed away with the old-school gardeners who practiced it. We can grow just as good Azaleas today in loam and leafmold as were ever grown in peat. Ericas and Boronias also thrive in a like compost if made porous. Good well-decayed leaf-soil is invaluable to the gardener, and great care should be taken when storing the leaves to throw out the sticks or branches, for these encourage fungus-growths. Where Pinetrees are common it is well, also, to avoid mixing in the pineneedles; the resin they contain prevents rapid decay, and is in itself injurious. The use of sand in potting composts is not so generally appreciated as it deserves to be. The value of silica in soils as plant-food is small, though appreciable, when compared with its value in rendering available all other plant-foods contained in the compost. If a soil becomes sour it is at once poisonous to plant roots, but given a liberal addition of coarse sand the most adhesive soil may be made fertile by its more perfect aeration. The water will pass through readily, and the air take its place until again replaced by water, and thus a perfect system of sanitation is maintained. The quantity of sand necessary must be determined by the texture of the loam.
Where Orchids are grown Fern-root is an essential for the winter's work. The large tufts of Osmunda, common in pastures, produce the best medium known today for the successful culture of Epiphytes. The tufts should be grubbed up from above the surface level and stored for winter, when it may be prepared at odd times by separating the rhizomes of the Fern from the fibrous roots. It is well, also, to keep the brown fibre separate from the coarser, because older, black portions which underlie the Ferns as they grow upward. Osmundas grow in wet, swampy soil as well as in drier uplands. The fibre is best when obtained from the latter source. This so-called peat is now largely exported to England for Orchid culture there.
Sphagnum-moss is also an essential in most establishments, and to have it in a condition to start growing freely when used it should be gathered as late in the season as possible and stored where it will freeze. It can then be thawed out, cleaned and used at any time; it is a great mistake to be without it, as it cannot be procured here until April, when a great portion of the work is done for which it is required. Sphagnum needs a rest, like everything else that grows, and, if gathered late, it has already gone to rest and can be stored without injury if moist enough to freeze. South Lancaster MA, O. O.

23 November 1892
The Cultivation of Cattleyas
Looking backward forty years, in the garden literature of that period, nothing is more striking, when we compare them with the periodicals of today, than the absence of Orchid notes. Collections of these plants were unknown outside of a few botanical gardens, and their cultivation was so little understood that the plants rarely lived long. Now that we adopt a more rational system, the majority of plants can be made happy for a number of years, if not an indefinite period; for, while it is possible to grow Cypripediums for all time if their wants are supplied, the same is not true of some other genera and species, and cultivators well know how difficult it is to maintain in vigorous health some of the Cattleyas, Dendrobiums, Phalaenopsis and others. Rapid communication with the tropics has made the importation of Orchids much easier than ever before, and it is now possible to purchase, at a low price, within the reach of all, fresh imported plants that, with ordinary care, will start to grow at once, and should flower within the first year of their growth here. We have an admirable climate for the culture of Orchids in America, with a most suitable material at hand to grow them in, that is, the fibrous roots of the ubiquitous Osmunda. The season of importing Orchids is now here, and a few remarks on treating Cattleyas may be useful to those who may wish to grow a few of the more popular kinds, such as C. Trianae, C. Percivalliana and C. Mossiae. All Cattleyas are kept dormant during transit here by lack of moisture, and the consequence is that directly the plants are received and placed in a genial atmosphere of 60 to 65 degrees, with moisture supplied by syringing once a day, they will commence to put forth roots in a very few days, and it is well to anticipate this by potting them as soon as ever they show signs of growth, using pots half-filled with crocks, Just large enough to contain the bulbs, and the new ones that are about to be made the coming year. If all goes well, the pots will be full of roots in a year and need more root-room, and this is preferable to the use of pots too large at the outset, for the plants will never thrive if over-potted, or if a quantity of organic matter be placed about the roots. Good Fern-root, combined with a little sphagnum, is the best material to use in potting. The sphagnum is not necessary to the plant's well-doing, but is an excellent index to the condition of the plant as to moisture and a reminder when to apply it. All Orchids should be potted firm in the beginning, and to make sure of this stakes should be used to secure the plants, that when they make roots they will not be broken or injured by oscillation. These stakes may be removed when roots are formed, as these soon attach themselves to the pots and keep the plant firm. A night temperature of 65 degrees will suit newly imported plants, but for those established 55 degrees will not be too low as a minimum. All plants of Cattleyas that have finished their growth for this season should be kept a little drier at the roots than when in active growth, though it is never advisable to keep Cattleyas quite dry for any long period, or the bulbs will shrivel and lose vigor and the flowering period will not be such a gay one. Plants of the old C. labiata will now have passed flowering. This is one of the finest of all winter-flowering Orchids, being exceedingly vigorous, a free bloomer, with a large percentage of good varieties; but its chief merit is that of flowering at a period when so few other showy kinds are to be had in bloom. After flowering the plants should be kept quiet, for it must be remembered that this plant takes its rest after flowering instead of before, as in many other kinds. The most perplexing feature of newly established Cattleyas is the way they have of starting to grow in and out of season, or just when they please. I have often been puzzled to know what to do with plants that start into growth when the resting period is at hand. The cause seems to be excessive vigor, and after a season or two, under good treatment, the plants settle down to a regular succession of rest and growth, which is a most desirable condition of things. All Cattleyas should have the full benefit of the sun at this time of year; the foliage will beconme well ripened by its influence, and less moisture in the atmosphere is required while the plants are at rest for the next three months. The time to repot Cattleyas varies with the variety or species. We have recently potted plants of C. Jaskelliana that had begun to root freely, as these do not flower until next summer, but the majority of kinds may safely be repotted soon after they begin to push forward young growth in spring. Many kinds are rooting freely now, but it would be unwise to disturb them just previous to their flowering. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

7 December 1892
Winter Protection
In almost every garden there is sure to accumulate a number of plants which one comes to consider indispensable, although not hardy enough to be left outdoors during the winter in severe climates. The cellars of dwelling-houses are not always available for storage, being either too hot or too cold, and the question naturally occurs, What are we to do with them? It is not advisable to place such plants in a heated structure, as they need rest, and should not start to grow until they can be safely planted outdoors in spring. The one place of all others for all half-tender border-plants is the cold-frame, but the term is perhaps an unhappy one, in that we do not build a frame and invite the cold to enter in because it is a cold frame; on the contrary, the frames are well protected in winter by a lining of dry leaves, packed tight outside and kept in place by boards, and the sashes are covered with mats, and shutters to keep the mats dry. In this way we manage to keep out the frost, and rarely do we get the plants frozen. Lily-ofthe-Valley for forcing, Astilbe, pot Roses, Freesias, Ixias, Ranunculus, double Anemones, Anemone fulgens, Pansies, stock-plants of Chrysanthemums, Violets, Hollyhocks, Foxgloves, Narcissi, Bulbocodiums, and, in fact, the whole of the winter-forcing bulbs may be safely stored in cold frames of this description. Chrysanthemums stored in this way produce excellent cuttings, stout and vigorous in May, just when they are wanted for growing on for pot-plants of medium size, or for large flowers. Freesias may be kept until March in this way, and will not have the weak habit of those brought on earlier in heat. All plants that have green tops must be exposed to the light on all favorable days and given air during sunshine, but bulbs and plants that have no top-growth may remain covered until required for use elsewhere. There is a good deal of labor incidental to the management of cold frames in the covering up and uncovering daily, but this is offset by the little attention necessary in watering as in a greenhouse. Very little water is required in winter; theless the better, as long as the plants do not suffer, as one's greatest enemy is the tendency of such plants as Violets to damp-off; these must be carefully watched and decaying parts renoved at once, or the plants will surely and rapidly die. In the spring-time these frames can be utilized as hot-beds. for the production of early vegetables, such as Cauliflower, Lettuce, Radishes, Beets and the raising of a host of tender seeds, such as Tomatoes, Celery, Zinnias, Asters, Stocks and many others. The use of the hot-bed was much better understood in the old days than it is now, but it is still the best of all ways to raise seeds and to grow on the young plants in a sturdy, vigorous way. We take out the soil to the required depth and place bricks under the corners of the frames to prevent their settling down, and fill in with the fermenting material, covering this with soil about six inches deep. When the Lettuce-plants are set out Radishes are sown between the rows, and as the Lettuce is used from alternate rows, Cauliflowers are set in their places. Beets take long to mature, and are given a frame to themselves. In a word, there is no end to the ways in which cold frames can be utilized. We have sixty sashes, six by three feet each, all arranged on frames, three sashes on each. In this way they are easily moved from one place to another, and winter and summer these frames are always fully occupied. Mice are sometimes to be found with snug winter quarters in the bulb-frames, and a happy time they have until Felis domesticus comes on the scene. The moral is, examine the frames regularly, even if they are not opened daily. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

11 January 1893
Decorative Plants in Winter
After the season of Chrysanthemums, there is a scarcity of winter-blooming plants for the greenhouse until the natural blooming of spring bulbs; and forethought and care are necessary to provide a supply of decorative plants for use during the winter months. It is not a difficult thing to have Hyacinths and Tulips flowering in pots or pans, and the methods of hurrying them on are generally well understood. But it is a mistake to crowd them into bloom too early, and the results are usually meagre and disappointing. It is far more satisfactory to have a good stock of other plants to carry through until February, when bulbous plants may be had with long flower stems and ample foliage. To fill this void, we grow Linum trigynum to follow the Chrysanthemum. The plants are rooted from cuttings in the spring. These are set out in the summer and lifted in the autumn, beginning to bloom in November. They are brightness itself in the greenhouse. L. trigynum is very susceptible to coal-gas and is liable to the red-spider when grown indoors, but occasional syringing will keep it clean. The more recent name for the plant is Reinwardtia.
The various strains of Chinese Primulas seem to be almost perfectly established; one can obtain seed of a given color of flower and form of foliage and rely on the results almost to a plant; the colors are very rich and the foliage abundant, and it seems almost impossible to improve on the single varieties. The double ones, as obtained from seed, like the double Cinerarias, need a great deal of improvement. It is, indeed, a question if they are desirable, the single kinds are so much more beautiful. To have good large plants of Primulas, the seed should be sown early in spring; about the end of March seems to give the best results if the plants are carefully tended. To obtain plants of the blue variety, which is very pretty by contrast with the others, it is necessary to sow the seed even earlier, as this strain seems to lack the vigor of the other colors. The Chinese Primroses succeed best in the cold frames in summer and may remain there until there is danger of frost and damp; the latter evil is more to be dreaded than cold, but at this period they need the warmth of a greenhouse, where they will soon become gay with flowers. I find there is a tendency with sonme strains of Primroses to flower during early autumn. This is a decided disadvantage, as the flowers are a very poor color at that time, besides being out of season, and the plants do not give good results in winter, even if the flowers are picked off in summer. The Chinese Primrose seems to flower to a certain extent and then the display is past, and the period is governed by the time they commence. Early flowering may be obviated by the later sowing of those kinds that have this tendency.
Poinsettia pulcherrima, an old and very showy winter decorative plant, is indispensable. There are several varieties of this species, which is a native of Mexico. The double variety, so-called, is very poor as compared with the typical plant; it seems impossible to keep the foliage on, even when the plant is small, and the bracts never make a good display. The white form is attractive, though seldom seen. Old plants of Poinsettias when kept dry, after flowering, may be kept at rest until summer and then cut down and two or more shoots allowed to grow. For most purposes cuttings taken in summer with a heel and rooted any time between May and July, will give plants of various sizes. All of these are useful, as the bracts are much more persistent and durable than the leaves. To make Poinsettias last well in a cut state they should be cut several days before they are needed for use, and the stems immersed in water their whole length, when it will be found that the foliage will not fade when used for decoration, as it will when fresh cut from the plants.
Of berried plants for winter use there is none so valuable as the Jerusalem Cherry, though why this Solanum should be so widely known by this name is a mystery, as the plant is a native of Brazil. The Jerusalem Artichoke is also a native of America. The best strain we have seen is that of Benary's, called Solanum capsicastrum nanum. It is a dwarf comnpact kind that needs no pinching to make a very compact bush, which is laden with the bright berries in profusion. As decorative plants for the greenhouse they are good for three months, but for the dwelling-house they are not so valuable, as they soon shed their leaves and berries. To have good plants of this Solanum with the least trouble, seed should be sown this month and planted outdoors in June, where they will remain until fall comes, and with it the time to lift and pot such plants. I have noticed that the larger the berries of this Solanum the less freely they are produced, and in this respect this dwarf strain is the best I have ever seen, though the berries are small compared with those of other strains. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet

18 January 1893
Gloxinias
It is not too much to say that no summer-flowering bulbous plant makes such a grand display in the greenhouse as the Gloxinia. Begonias are not at their best during summer in the greenhouse, for very hot days sometimes cause their flowers to drop, and it is not until early fall that they are at their best. They should be treated accordingly, that is, kept back without artificial heat, not started before their own proper time, and kept cool during the summer. Begonias will come in as a good succession to Gloxinias, which are essentially summer-flowering plants and are most difficult to obtain in good condition later than August. Gloxinias are also admirably adapted for decorative purposes, either as pot-plants or as cut flowers. It is surprising how long the flowers will last when cut, but they cannot be sent any distance, as the least bruise disfigures them. When well grown as pot-plants the rich deep green foliage often completely hides the pots, and the richly colored flowers make a great display. There are two distinct strains of Gloxinias, the thick-leaved, or G. crassifolia, which usually has flowers with solid colors; the strain that produces spotted flowers has thin and comparatively narrow foliage. These strains are so distinct that the difference is easily recognized in the seed-pans. It might be supposed that the two strains were of different specific origin, but I can find no reference to any other species than G. speciosa as the parent of the present race of Gloxinias, though the first seminal variations that occurred under cultivation were all distributed under Latin descriptive names. These might easily, now fifty years later, be taken for distinct species, which they were not; this emphasizes what has so often been urged in GARDEN AND FOREST, that mere garden forms of cultivated plants do not merit Latin names to distinguish them, though the practice too often prevails to our confusion. It should be stated that Gloxinia speciosa had drooping flowers of a purple color, and it is quite a common occurrence for seeds of good strains to revert to this original type and color, though the pendent flowered section is by no means as ornamental as are those with erect flowers. Any particular plant of a desired color can be perpetuated as easily by seed as by leaf-cuttings as usually practiced. It is only necessary to fertilize the newly opened flower with its own pollen to obtain a quantity of seeds which will come true to the parent, and the foliage will be as characteristic as the flowers. It is now, consequently, an easy matter to select desired colors when purchasing seeds. The best time to sow Gloxinia seeds is in January, if a minimum of sixty degrees can be secured. The seeds, being very small, should be sown on a layer of sand and sprinkled with a fine sprayer, without any covering of earth. The pans should be covered with a piece of glass, leaving a space for air and moisture to escape. It will not often be necessary to water again before the seeds have germinated, which will be in about three weeks. As soon as the plants are large enough to handle they should be transplanted into other pans or boxes, and, later, potted in small pots. At this period the young plants grow very rapidly; seedlings may often be potted to advantage in six-inch pots during the first season and give fine results. Loam and plenty of decayed leaf, with enough sand to make it porous, is the best soil for Gloxinias. The plants may be potted on at any time before the flowers begin to develop; after that time no advantage is gained, but liberal treatment in the way of liquid-manure is beneficial until the flowers are fully open. A good brisk, moist heat is necessary to bring Gloxinias along to the flowering stage, when more air and less moisture will produce better flowers and they will last longer. The two important points essential to success with these plants are that they should not be exposed to direct sunlight, and, if they are, should never be watered or sprinkled over the foliage. The plants are liable to be attacked by thrips, and these minute insects speedily ruin them for the season. We fumigate regularly for thrips until the flowers open, but no longer. The work of these insects can easily be detected on the flower buds and foliage, and remedial measures must be taken at once. After the flowering period is over, the plants must be cared for and the foliage kept green as long as possible by careful watering and shading; if forced to rest prematurely the bulbs will be inclined to start into fresh growth. In winter we store the bulbs under the benches or in a warm cellar until they start to grow again; the earliest have just been repotted and will be potted on as they require it; they will begin to flower in May and will continue through the following months. In the hottest weather a heavy shading is necessary, or the flowers will fade in the heat of the day, recovering usually at night. Of the various strains now offered, too much cannot be said for Emperor Frederick; it is brilliant crimson with a pure white margin, and is a vigorous grower. Defiance has a vivid coloring, but lacks vigor and is very difficult to grow. Coelestina is a very large white flower flaked with blue, and is very robust. Of the strain sown as G. alba, every plant came pure white; it is evidently a selection from the spotted strain. A good white, with foliage like G. crassifolia, would be an acquisition in form, size and substance of flower. Corona is another of the spotted class. The purple and red coloring can always be obtained in plenty from a packet of any strain of seed which, with the erect-flowered G. crassifolia, would form the basis for a collection, which can be increased or dimninished at pleasure, for we always find some varieties that are worth perpetuating and some that may easily be spared. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

22 February 1893
Romneya Coulteri
The question has been often asked why this plant is so seldom seen in gardens in the east. Seeds are easily obtained from California, where this lovely Poppy grows, both wild and cultivated. I have often, in previous years, sown the seeds, but never succeeded in securing any plants. In response to the inquiry regarding R. Coulteri, in GARDEN AND FOREST, vol. iv., p. 392, a correspondent in California sent me seeds of I890 and I891, with the remark that they would probably take two years to germinate. It seemed a long time to wait, but they were sown in the fall of I891 and have been kept watered ever since and wintered in a cool house. To my surprise, a few days ago, I found a few seedlings already up. Since giving a top-dressing of sand to kill a growth of Moss that had covered the soil, and a little extra warmth, the plants have come up in numbers, and I hope to grow and flower them here.
Much has been said of the beauty of this American plant in English periodicals, and it is not difficult to obtain the plant in England. I have not been able to procure it in the eastern states, presumably because the seeds sown did not come up as expected. I would advise those who have sown seed to wait patiently, for after two winters they are almost sure to germinate. It saves much trouble to know just when one may expect seed to germinate; seedsmen would confer a favor to their customers in stating this fact so far as they are able. At another time I should sow the seed in sound boxes, cover the soil with porous bricks and place the boxes under the benches in the greenhouse. This would prevent loss of seed by careless watering, and when they were expected to germinate the boxes could be placed where the young plants might have light and air.
It may be well to say here that the seeds of any plants that have been exposed to frost in cold frames may now be brought into warmth in the greenhouse, where they will germinate with certainty. This applies especially to seeds of Trollius, Anthericums, Gentians, Aquilegia glandulosa, A. coerulea and their varieties; also to Dicentra eximia; all of which are perennials that should be sown only in fall, as nothing is gained by sowing now, and they would require care and attention all summer. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

29 March 1893
Cypripediums
It may be safely presumed that Cypripediums are sure to be represented in even the smallest collection of Orchids by one or more of the very many kinds now in existence, and the taste for this easily grown class of plants is rapidly developing, both here and in Europe. There are several reasons why cultivators, once interested, go on from small beginnings to the larger collection of species and hybrids, the principal one being that the flowers last many weeks in perfection without apparent injury to the plants; indeed, it is quite possible to have flowers of Cypripedium insigne lasting, in good condition, from Christmas till Easter. The plants themselves are handsome when not in bloom, even to the casual observer. Of all the known kinds at present in cultivation, there are but very few that can be called poor growers, and it is safe to say that Cypripediums are the safest of all Orchids as an investment for beginners. There is no difficulty in meeting their demands, chief of which is a plentiful supply of water, as they need no season of rest, but should be kept moist at the roots continually. But, perhaps, the greatest incentive to the culture of Cypripediums is the ease with which seedlings can be raised and flowered. Some of the best work in this field has been done by amateurs, and one often finds promising lots of young seedlings coming on in the hands of both professional and amateur growers.
Newly imported plants of this family establish themselves rapidly from nice plants. A single growth of C. Chamberlainianum obtained last June has, since that time, become established, and produces four promising young growths. A lot of C. insigne, obtained as imported plants in the fall of I891, are now fine plants in six-inch pots, and will flower freely next winter; many were strong enough to flower last winter, but as we desired to obtain strong plants they were kept in a warm house and they did not stop to flower, but kept on growing all the time. Many Orchids, when newly imported from their native country, are best kept out of pots until they show signs of life and begin to root, but Cypripediums are best when potted up at once, as they start quicker and the foliage begins to freshen up from this time forward, while if the plants have but few live roots they may be placed in pots with small pieces of broken pots to keep them in position until they begin to make roots, when a little Fern-root and moss may be placed in the pots over the crocks.
If plants at any time become unhealthy they may be taken out of the old soil and the roots and leaves thoroughly cleansed with tepid water. The live portions should be placed in crocks like newly imported plants and kept moist by frequent syringing, and in this way they may be speedily brought round to a healthy growing condition. It is quite possible to repot Cypripediums at any season if care is taken not to mutilate the roots, but it is preferable to do this as they are about to start into growth with the returning warmth and sunshine of spring. Ours have all been taken in hand and either repotted or the surface of the material carefully removed and replaced by fresh moss and Fern-root in about equal portions. Many advocate the use of loam in the material for some of the more robust-growing sorts, such as C. insigne, but we have always succeeded well without it. Others again recommend the use of moss alone mixed with broken pots, but with the capacity of moss to retain water very careful attention is necessary to avoid over-watering. We recently received plants that were potted in moss alone, and their condition was anything but desirable; they have all been repotted in Fern-root and moss. Sphagnum, even the best, has a tendency to decay rapidly, and when used in any quantity it soon decomposes, and, therefore, should not be used near the roots, but rather on the surface, where it will speedily grow and become green, making an excellent reminder when water is needed. The "Fernroot" named is that of the several Osmundas, common in the United States, preference being given to those growing in well-drained soil. Two distinct grades of fibre can be obtained from the same mass; the more recently formed will be brown and spongy and is excellent for the thick roots of Cypripedes to run through, while the older and wiry portions will suit Cattleyas equally well. It used to be the rule to elevate the plants above the top of the pot when repotting, but this renders the operation a little more difficult, and is altogether unnecessary, as the plants succeed equally well, and in some cases better, when placed in the pots as other plants are.
There are few Orchids that are so easy to satisfy as to other conditions. Most Cypripediums will thrive admirably in a temperature of fifty-five degrees at night, and some will stand a much lower temperature, while, again, others need more warmth, these being such as come from the islands of the Malay Archipelago and their offspring. But a house that can be maintained at sixty degrees at night in winter, with a corresponding rise by day, will suit those that come from those warmer countries. Those kinds that have tessellated foliage need shade from bright sunshine at all times, or the leaves will lose much of their healthy green coloring, and this means loss of vigor, as Cypripediums, being devoid of bulbs, do not store up vigor. The green-leaved kinds will stand much more sunshine, though from this time forward shading is desirable for them also.
The taste for Cypripediums in most cases appears to be the result of education; few take to them at first as they do to the more showy genera of Orchids, but all are almost sure to acquire a growing appreciation of their refinement and elegance as time goes on. A careful selection of a dozen kinds would give flowers every day in the year and a pleasing array of foliage always. The hybridist has done much to improve and refine the quality of these plants, and if I were to select a limited number of the best kinds the majority would be of garden origin. Great advancement is possible in this direction, and proofs of this are constantly visible. The introduction of a single species new to science makes possible innumerable combinations out of which much progress is sure to be made. Rigid selection must begin very soon, or what will be the condition of the nomenclature of Cypripediums a few years hence? South Lancaster MA, O. O.

19 April 1893
Amaryllis
There are few places in America where the showy and useful kinds of Amaryllis, which flower in spring and early summer, receive the attention and prominence which they deserve. The reasons why they should become popular are many. Apart from an annual repotting in spring, they need very little attention besides watering, for after the flowering period is past we place them in cold frames to grow all summer, and they mature both the foliage and bulbs thoroughly in the frames and are stored away in the greenhouse under the benches all winter until signs of growth appear in spring. Re-potting is always done before leaf-growth has advanced, as the leaves are very liable to be injured when young, and if bruised they need staking to preserve their normal habit. The chief hindrance to the making of a collection of Amaryllis is the first cost, bulbs of choice varieties being very expensive, and those of common varieties, from which the good ones have all been selected, are by no means cheap; but there is one way in which one can get together a very interesting lot of plants, and that is to raise them from seeds. Some may say that it takes too long to bring them to a flowering size, but I have found by actual comparison that it takes quite as long to establish a dry imported bull), such as are sent here in the fall, without roots, as to sow seeds and flower the bulbs. We are now flowering a nice lot of bulbs from seeds sown in November, 1890. The seeds of Amaryllis are peculiar in structure and lose their vitality quickly and should be obtained as soon as ripe, about midsummer, from a specialist who supplies seed, and when received should be sown at once in a warm greenhouse. A packet containing sixty seeds was sown June 30th last, and we have now fifty plants well-rooted in four-inch pots, and these, if grown on all summer, will some of them, perhaps, flower next spring. Seedling Amaryllis do not require any period of rest until they reach maturity. When they have flowered and begin to develop offsets they may be kept rather dry throuch the winter as witht older bulbs, and when a quantity are grown they may be brought on in succession or grown to form a display at one period as suits the cultivator. Thrips are very liable to disfigure the foliage when young, but as we grow them indoors at this period an occasional fumigation of tobacco smoke will put an end to this pest, the only one that is likely to give any trouble.
This section of the Amnaryllidae is now more properly known as Hippeastrum, and the genus is peculiar to tropical South America. The original parents of our present garden forms were several, and their individuality is now almost lost, as the hybrids themselves easily intercross. It is rather singular that to a Lancashire weaver, John Horsfield, we owe the most beautiful Narcissus, and so also to a Lancashire watchmaker do we owe the first hybrid Amaryllis, A. Johnsoni, perhaps the best known variety in gardens today. It was raised in I799, and the parents were A. Reginae and A. vittatum. There is a wide field open for the further improvement of garden Amaryllis. In the southern states growers could cultivate them in the open air altogether, and they could be sold at very remunerative prices if the strain were carefully selected and only the best kinds used to start with. European growers realize high prices for their bulbs, and even then it is sometimes difficult to supply the demand. South Lancaster MA, O. O.

10 May 1893
Hardy Ferneries
There are many situations in which it is difficult to make plants or grass thrive, owing to shade from trees or other causes. In city yards, too, where the surroundings are not under control, it is necessary to take these into consideration, and to plant such things as are likely to thrive. I have in mind a limited space at the back of a city house which was transformed into a most interesting spot by planting Ferns alone. Besides attention to moisture, these require hardly any labor after the planting is completed. For situations of this kind the numerous Ferns of the eastern states should be depended upon mainly, as only the native Ferns are entirely hardy. Others, such as British species and varieties, can sometimes be used with advantage. These are distinct, in many ways, from any of our native kinds, the original type having been changed through the continued raising of seedlings and selection. The varieties of almost all the principal types have become so numerous as to tax the ingenuity of the raisers to name them. It should be noted, however, that British Ferns are not reliably hardy, and should be given a secondary position.
Many Ferns grow only on rocks, while others are found in stony soil; some are sub-aquatic, and, again, some favor rich black vegetable mold. All Ferns, however, will thrive in mold, provided other conditions are similar to those in which they are found wild. The common Polypody (Polypodium vulgare) is always found growing in tufts on rocks where but little soil can accumulate. P. incanum is not unlike P. vulgare. It is only found in the southern states, though it is hardy in the east. It also grows in similar positions, and sometimes on trees where moisture is assured. These two species should be planted among stones to secure ample drainage, with very little organic matter about their roots. Cheilanthes vestita, another rare and beautiful Fern, also grows in the clefts of rocks. This is sometimes called the Lace Fern, owing to its elegant fronds; it is perfectly hardy. Camptosorus rhizophyllus, the Walking Fern, grows in similar situations, and is a most interesting Fern, peculiar to North America. Young plants are produced at the tips of each frond as they arch over and touch the soil; these take root, and the plant is thus propagated. Asplenium Trichomanes, the Maiden-hair Spleenwort, is a desirable Fern, though not common in cultivation; its culture is simple, similar to that of C. rhizophyllus. This is also the case with Wall Rue (Aspleniurn Ruta-muraria), a very small, but interesting, species often found on old walls and in clefts of limestone rocks. Old mortar rubbish should be added to the soil to insure its well-doing. These Ferns all need stones or rocks about their roots; they are of dwarf habit, and must not be associated with any of the more robust kinds, but should be planted in nooks by themselves. Though no elaborate arrangement of stones or rocks is necessary, they are a decided advantage in a fernery, and furnish a diversity of positions, and also assist in making a more natural and informal effect. The well-being of the plants must, of course, not be sacrificed for the sake of the rocks, and there must be a good supply of soil to contain moisture for the support of the plants, or failure is certain.
Among Ferns that should not be included in stocking a fernery is Struthiopteris Germanica. It spreads rapidly and should be confined where it cannot ramble at will and crowd out other Ferns. It is commonly known as the Ostrich Fern and is very handsome and most valuable for naturalizing.
Some Ferns need a great deal of moisture, such as Woodwardia Virginica, W. angustifolia, all the Osmundas, Aspidium acrostichoides, Dicksonia punctilobula and the Maiden-hair Fern (Adiantum pedatum). Among kinds that succeed well in drier positions are Aspidium marginale, A. Goldianum, A. cristatum, A. spinulosum and its varieties; also the species of Phegopteris, such as P. polypodioides, P. hexagonoptera anc P. Dryopteris. The Hartford Fern (Lygodium palmatum) must not be omitted. Its climbing habit should be encouraged; it takes some time to become established and is of a rambling disposition at the roots. The Botrychiums and Ophioglossum are very interesting, owing to the bunch-like, fertile portions of the fronds which have given them the name of flowering Ferns.
There is one beautiful exotic Fern that should be known by all growers of Fern; this is a species from Japan, Asplenium Goringianum pictum. It is beautifully variegated with red, gray and green, and is quite hardy. But few forms of native Ferns, which vary from the types, are known in gardens. This is due to the lack of observation and interest in these plants. I found beautifully crested forms of two species which I was collecting. One plant, Aspidium marginale, was surrounded with numerous smaller ones, all of which were crested at the end of each division of the frond. If Ferns were more sought for, and cultivated, we should soon hear of seminal varieties exceeding their parents in beauty. It would add much to the interest of a fernery if some of the native Orchids were planted among the Ferns. The conditions would be suitable for all the Cypripediums, Habenarias, Orchis spectabilis, Spiranthes, Goodyeras and Pogonia. Indeed, every species of native Orchid could be grown in such a situation, excepting, of course, the southern Epidendrum conopseum, which is epiphytal. The soil should be composed largely of decayed leaf-mold, with loam added. Fertilizers are unnecessary and would, in some cases, be injurious both to Ferns and Orchids. Two things only are necessary, shade and moisture, either natural or supplied in some artificial way. Exotic varieties may be added by way of experiment, and it would be very interesting to the grower and others interested in Ferns to know which are reliably hardy in the colder sections of the United States. Most Ferns die down in winter, and a top-dressing of leaf-mold would be of great benefit as a protection to the crowns and for nourishment to the roots. The catalogues of dealers in native plants give sufficient directions for planting. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

17 May 1893
Spring Flowers
In this late spring season the display of the earliest spring flowers in the mixed border of hardy plants is still meagre. Among those which have appeared are some familiar flowers that peep out early each year and are the advance guard of the season. They are always in bloom with the Crocus, which is a, perhaps, more definite statement than any dates, considering the difference in seasons and latitudes. There appear to be, so far as I have noticed, but few hardy Primulas. The bright, early-flowering P. rosea once promised to be hardy, and has lived through our winters, but it has largely died out and is now seldom seen. P. denticulata, which was planted with P. rosea, has proved to be reliably hardy. Without any special care or protection, it comes up strong and flowers annually, along with the pure white form known as P. denticulata nivalis. The latter variety is snow-white and has been making an attractive display for some days past. This Primula likes a moist soil, with shade from midday sun. It thrives amazingly, making a strong growth after the flowering period. It is a native of the Himalayas. A new Fritillaria, tried for the first time this season, is F. aurea. The figure given in Nicholson's Dictionary of Gardening, under this name, is evidently in error, as the segments of the flowers are shown recurved, as in F. recurva, while the flowers of F. aurea are the same shape and size as F. Meleagris. The ground color is clear yellow, checked with brown on the inside of the flowers. It is the prettiest Fritillarv I know, and has proved perfectly hardy here, flowering a month earlier than F. Meleagris. It is of dwarfer habit, scarcely exceeding nine inches, though a few tried in the greenhouse were twice the height of those in the open. The plant is a native of Asia Minor, and is offered by growers of bulbs in Holland. The flowers grown indoors lasted two weeks, and the colors were brighter than those in the open ground. Scarcely any two flowers are alike in the markings or tesserae. Puschkinia scilloides, the Striped Squill, is somewhat rare, and is similar to the Scillas. It is always among the earliest garden-plants to bloom. The segments are white, with a blue stripe down the centre of each. This pretty spring-flowering bulb once planted will appear every spring, requiring no special care. The earliest Daffodils were in bloom here a week ago, and were the first flowers from the open garden useful for cutting. Of the many hundred bulbs in the borders, notwithstanding the severe winter, there are no breaks in the rows, and it is certain that in our climate severe cold does not injure them. Many kinds appeared above the soil last fall before the cold weather came, and they will flower as if nothing had happened to them. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

28 June 1893
Hardy Flower Garden
Poppies, Paeonies, Spiraeas and a host of other less showy plants are now flowering profusely, and the garden is at its best. The season has been most favorable for the growth of plants, and their vigor this year is in many instances astonishing, some plants having increased so much as to make division necessary another season. Vincetoxicum acuminatum, an Asclepiad commonly called the Mosquito-catcher, is now very attractive. Its myriad of starry white flowers secrete a viscid substance that attracts mosquitoes, and these insects are oftentimes trapped by the flowers. It is a good garden plant, lasting in bloom many weeks, and can easily be increased by division. Cuttings can be rooted, but they seldom make buds below the soil, and usually perish in winter. Pyrethrums, which deserve more general cultivation, are most useful for cutting, and last well. We find the double-named kinds less vigorous than the seedlings raised from seed of double kinds; these in their second season give a quantity of useful flowers that-cannot be overpraised. The plants die out somewhat in winter, our annual loss being about ten per cent. But selfsown seedlings are always plentiful in the borders to make good these losses. Pyrethrums with us thrive equally well in wet and dry soil.
Scabiosa Caucasica, one of the choicest border-plants we have, is coming into flower. Like the Pyrethrums, it has a tendency to die out in winter. It is not of a biennial nature, as I supposed, as our plants are now flowering for the third season. There has been a plentiful supply of seed every year to make good all losses, and we always have a nice bed of it in reserve to cut from. The color is a pleasing lavender-blue, rare in the flowers of hardy plants.
Of many varieties, our earliest Campanula to flower is C. punctata. This is more beautiful than ever this season, and its spreading habit produces a dense mat of green, from which spring many stems covered with white flowers, spotted with brown inside. It is a choice border-plant, growing about eighteen inches high, much like C. Van Houttei, and there is no trace of weediness, as in some of the taller and more robust kinds of Campanula. I have raised seedlings of C. nobilis, said to be a synonym of C. punctata, but the former is stronger growing, spreads rapidly, and is inclined to be weedy. From a garden standpoint these are very different plants.
During a recent visit to Mr. H. H. Hunnewell's gardens at Wellesley, I was surprised to find a fine specimen of Erernurus robustus in bloom. The spike was about six feet high and had been beautiful for a long time, and I was assured that no protection had been afforded in winter. This opens up a new field for hardy-plant lovers, as the plant in question had been but two years planted. There are several other species of Eremurus, all beautiful and stately plants, natives of Asia. These will be a welcome addition to our gardens should they prove as hardy as E. robustus. I have found these plants to be very impatient of root-disturbance, and when once planted they should not be disturbed in any way.
Thalictrums are not very ornamental flowering plants, but have finely cut foliage in all cases. This is especially true of T. minus adiantifolium, which is as pretty in leaf as the common Maidenhair Fern. T. Fendleri, a species from Colorado, is just now highly ornamental, more so than any other species with which I am acquainted, though there is a Japanese plant that resembles it somewhat. T. Fendleri does not grow more than two feet high and thrives in almost any position. The Columbines are mostly past, and I am sorry to say that many of the best species have disappeared entirely, and in their places we have a nondescript lot of self-sown plants that defy classification. Aquilegia ccerulea, A. glandulosa, A. Stuartii, and even A. chrysantha can scarcely be called perennial, at least they are not always so with us. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

26 July 1893
Midsummer in the Garden
Larkspurs are just now very much in evidence, and given a wide border with a rich soil that does not dry out, there are few plants so satisfactory. Our Delphiniums were all raised from seed and many of them are fine double and semi-double varieties, equal to the named sorts. These double kinds last longer on the plants, and when cut, than the others, and are, therefore, more desirable and just as easy to obtain from seeds as the more common single Larkspurs. Another fine object just now is the Japan Groundsel, Senecio Japonicus. This plant is sub-aquatic, but will thrive in any situation other than a dry one. A plant with about twelve flowerstems and a quantity of the brilliant orange-colored flowers is just now very striking, the more so as it is too early for the majority of the Compositae. If this Senecio flowered later it would be eclipsed by the Sunflowers and Silphiums. Another name is also attached to the Senecio Japonicus; it is the Erythrochaete palmatifida of many Dutch plant lists. Last summer every flower was carefully allowed to remain on the plant in the hope of obtaining seeds, but out of the quantity saved only about one good seed was obtained from each flower head, and though this was sown at the time of ripening only one plant came up and that six months after the seed was sown. It is easily increased by division and is perfectly hardy.
Morina longifolia is a beautiful garden-plant, seldom seen, and usually considered tender in northern latitudes, but we have had it for three years in the garden without the least protection, and it is now in flower. The plant itself is quite Thistle-like, but the flowers are arranged in whorls on the stems. The flowers, on opening, are pure white, but gradually turn to a deep crimson before they fade. It is a very interesting plant for a border of really choice things. It is often called Morina elegans in seed lists and is a native of Nepaul. The herbaceous Spiraes are just now very showy; the dwarf kinds are past and the tall kinds are at their best. S. ulmaria and the two variegated silver and golden varieties are good gardenplants, also the S. Kamschatica, or gigantea. S. palmata is a pretty bright rose-color, but the best of them all is our native S. lobata, or Queen of the Prairies. This is also soft rose-colored and grows about five feet high. It is the best garden Spiraea we have that has colored flowers, but, strange to say, it is very seldom seen in gardens, though why not it is hard to understand.
Alstroemeria aurea is the only hardy species of those I have tried, and all the available kinds have been tested, including A. Peruviensis, A. psittacina, A. pelegrina and its white variety, A. Brasiliensis, A. haemantha and A. Chilensis. There is a decided uncertainty about Alstroemeria names as they are known in gardens and as they are sold to gardeners, but one thing is fairly certain that A. aurea (or aurantiaca) will be sure to survive and grow apace without special care if the soil it grows in can be kept dry in winter. It is a most beautiful subject for cutting, as it lasts so long and is altogether so different from most garden plants. A. pelegrina, the true Inca Lily, is not hardy, but will well repay pot-culture, especially the white form. These two kinds only grow about eighteen inches high, and die down at midsummer. We had a nice lot at one time, but they all died in the frames in winter when subject to only a few degrees of frost. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

30 August 1893
Seasonable Notes
The cool nights already prevalent indicate that we are on the verge of autumn, the season that, next to spring, brings with it most anxieties to the cultivator. Our first preparation for fall is to get the Violets under glass as soon as practicable, and at this time every plant of the winter flowering double kind Lady H. Campbell is safely under glass, either in the frames or in the heated house. The showery weather, and consequent humid atmosphere, give the exact conditions favorable to the development of disease, traces of which are already visible. This removal of the plants enables us to keep off overhead moisture. I have tried every known means to circumvent this disease, but have come to the conclusion that there is no cure for diseased plants in an advanced stage, and it is a waste of time and labor to try remedies. Much can be done, however, to keep healthy stock from becoming weak by taking off all the runners at this season. These should be put in as cuttings in boxes of sandy soil and kept in cold frames all winter. A moderate freezing will not hurt them; ours were frozen for two months last winter. In the spring they were potted singly in small pots and kept in frames until planted out in May. In this way a single sash will hold a thousand runners, and one need not propagate from stock forced to produce to their utmost all through the winter months. In fact, the plants we have now have never known artificial heat. I am also of opinion that partial shade is of decided benefit to plants during the summer season; in infected districts the strain is not so great on the plants, and their constitution is not weakened so much in consequence where shade is afforded by trees or other means at midday.
Poinsettias are invaluable decorative plants for winter, and are particularly seasonable at Christmas. Our plants have been out-of-doors until now, but will be placed in the Rose-house at an early date. As soon as the cool nights give the foliage the least signs of wilting in the morning, just so soon do they need warmth to maintain the foliage on the plants until the bracts are developed. Poinsettias struck this season will make very useful little plants moved into four-inch pots to flower, but their chief value will be in the second season. If kept dry after flowering until midsummer and then started outdoors in frames, there will be several branches to each plant, each producing a good head. A night temperature of fifty-five degrees is most suitable to prevent a weak and attenuated growth. The so-called double Poinsettia is not worth growing. It is weaker in habit, does not retain the foliage so well, and the duplicate row of bracts is, in most instances that I have noticed, purely imaginary. A few plants of the white-flowered form are desirable wherever the typical plant is cultivated, for the sake of variety. The white form is equally as robust as the scarlet, and makes a pleasing contrast.
It has often been a matter of surprise to me that Lavender is not more generally grown in gardens. A single bush will produce a quantity of fragrant flowers, which are pleasing whether fresh or dried. In New England the plant is doubtful as to hardiness. I have known it to survive a winter, but much more often to die. We always lift the plants after the first few frosts have arrested growth, and place them in a cellar, the roots being covered with soil. In the spring they are taken out and replanted in rich soil, and three good cuttings of blossoms are obtained during the summer. These are laid in an airy shed to dry slowly, and are then ready for use. Lavandula vera is the kind grown. It is sometimes known as L. Spica, and is the kind mostly grown to produce the oil of commerce. It is also known as English Lavender, although, like the term English Iris, the plants have in either case no real claim to the name English, except that at various periods they have been largely cultivated in England, for they are not indigenous to that country. The French Lavender has a much broader leaf; it is more tomentose, and is, therefore, often known as L. lanata. The flowers are equally desirable for use, but for distillation they are of little value as compared with those of L. vera. Lavender is easily propagated by means of cuttings taken from a plant placed in a warm greenhouse. Only a very small percentage of cuttings from out-of-door plants take root, as the wood is too hard. Two-year-old plants ought to produce about one hundred spikes of bloom, and these should be cut as soon as the first flowers are open on the spike. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

20 September 1893
Timely Hints on Lilies
It is only too true that in this climate one is never quite ready for frost, no matter how late it defers its first visit. In our section it is never safe to leave tender plants out after September has come round. This season frost visited this town the first week of the month, though this is unusually early. The bulb season has arrived, and no time should be lost in obtaining those necessary for outdoor planting while there is natural warmth in the soil; there is nothing gained by delay, and much is lost, for the sooner the bulbs are planted the more growth they make before frost comes, and the better display they are able to make next season. This especially applies to the Lily family. Lilium speciosum and other Japan Lilies do not arrive here until after it is too late to plant in the open ground, hence the advisability of obtaining good American-grown bulbs of such kinds as thrive well in this climate. L. auratumn, L. Harrisii and L. longiflorum are best obtained, as newly imported bulbs, especially L. auratum, while L. tigrinum, L. Batemannme and all the varieties of L. speciosum grow so well here in the open ground that they are easily kept over by dealers, and can be supplied in good-strong bulbs at this season. The European Lilies come in at this season from the Dutch growers, and should be planted without delay, whether for the planting of new bulbs or the separation of old clumps. Lilies make considerable roots in the autumn from the base of the bulbs. These roots go to strengthen the shoot that comes forth next spring, and the stem, when well started, puts forth roots to support the flowers, so it is obvious that the more roots in the fall the better the growth next year.
It has always been my opinion that L. auratum could not be grown on year after year with its native vigor maintained, and this had been stated in the columns of GARDEN AND FOREST, when a correspondent sent me bulbs of a variety called L. auratum macranthum, which he said were perfectly easy to grow on year after year. This kind is also known as the variety Platyphyllum, owing to its broader leaves more resembling the Speciosum section, as do the bulbs themselves, and it is a pleasure to be able to state of this variety that it is a most satisfactory Lily in every respect, especially the flowers themselves. Importers of Japan bulbs would do well to make a note of this variety, for I do not know of any place where it can be procured in this country. Mr. Brydon's great success with L. giganteum will, no doubt, encourage many to try this noble Lily, and I would warn all such to be careful and not pay high prices for bulbs of this species unless they are guaranteed true. I know of an instance where the commoner L. cordifolium was supplied last season, though the large price paid ought to have guaranteed the purchaser against any mistake, whether intentional or not. L. giganteum being a Himalayan Lily, is best obtained from European dealers. Dutch bulbgrowers catalogue it, but I question if any growers here have it to sell. It is true that the flowers are of small size in comparison to the stature of the plant, but I know of no garden plant that has such a distinguished appearance when seen as it was at Yarmouthport this season.
None the less remarkable were the fine stalks Lilium Wallichianum superbum was throwing up, for they surpassed all others I had seen for vigor, and promised great beauty later in the season. Mr. Brydon assures us of its hardiness, and also of the fact of its producing small bulbs in the axils of the leaves, like L. tigrinum, and he showed us some in boxes that were flowering when two years old. There is a great future for this fine Lily, judging from the way it is behaving in every place where I have seen it, though its height is against it for pot-culture.
One thing this season has taught us, with considerable emphasis, is that Lilies must be sure of moisture at the roots at all times; there is no difficulty about this in moist localities, except during a dry time in summer-just when they need water most; hence many failures. As I have tried to explain, there is no period of the year when the roots of Lilies are inactive, for as soon as the stalk begins to decay the new roots begin to push forth from the base of the bulbs to fortify them for the work of another season. Lily-stalks should never be pulled out, no matter how well ripened, or water will be conducted direct to the heart of the bulb and trouble will begin at once.
In planting Lilies, and, in fact, all other bulbs, the manure used should never come in contact with the bulbs, but they should be covered first with soil and the manure should be put on afterward. The older this is the better; decayed leaf-soil is the more suitable, if free from fungus, but Lilies like a rich soil. The old idea was, never to give Lilies manure or manure-water, but this theory must be considered obsolete. One of the largest growers of L. Harrisii in Bermuda told me that no farmer there would willingly grow a second crop of Lilies; it impoverished the soil more than any other crop, a fact which Lily-growers here should bear in mind. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

4 October 1893
Autumn Planting
After such a protracted dry season it is fair to assume that there will soon be a good deal of wet weather, and the intending planter has, therefore, no time to lose. Thinning out old plantings or making new ones should be attended to at once, and a large majority of herbaceous plants will become established in their new locations before the ground freezes, and will start away better in the spring than if planting is left until that season.
The autumn planting of Roses in the open in New England is, however, in my opinion, a mistake. Unless the wood of established Roses is thoroughly matured, especially the late growth, even these are liable to be killed down to the roots, as was proved last winter with a lot of year-old plants of Hybrid Perpetual Roses on their own roots. They were well protected with straw, but the shoots were vigorous and immature, and the result was that all died. A similar lot this year will be lifted and the roots placed in sandy soil in the cellar, to be replanted in April as soon as the ground can be worked. About three hundred American-grown Rose plants were used in our fall plantings in 1890 and 1891, some on their own roots and others budded, according to variety. The plants were earthed up with soil just before frost came, and covered lightly with straw. In each case one-third of the plants were either killed or so badly injured that they had to be replaced in the spring. I have no doubt that others have had the same experience, but a great deal is still heard about planting Roses in the fall, as though it were the most approved season for this work. Believing that orders were filed by the growers in the order of their receipt and that the best plants would go to the first purchasers, our orders were placed early, so as to secure good plants. This plan I should again follow, but on receiving the plants they should be heeled in, either in a cool cellar or cold frame. If in a cold frame, the tops should be covered with dry leaves. In the spring they will come out bright, with the buds just beginning to swell and the roots in good condition.
As to the value of budded plants, compared with own-root plants, it has always seemed to me that the best and quickest results are obtained from budded plants. The wild Brier has to be looked out for, but shoots from the Brier-root can be detected at a glance and removed, and as long as these intruders are under the soil they will do no harm. We grow several hundred Hybrid Roses for forcing; all the best are kept in flats about six inches deep. Some are on their own roots, others budded, and others again grafted on the roots of the Baltimore Belle. Those on their own roots are the weakest, and the last-named are by far the strongest, making growths over six feet high. These are now thoroughly ripened by keeping the soil rather dry when growth is finished, and in rainy weather the boxes are stood on edge. The plants treated in this way are started when the Chrysanthemums have finished flowering. We get one crop of excellent Roses in March, and as they are not pruned low down the lower buds start and give a second fine crop later; sometimes a scattering of good blooms is gathered later in the season from the plants treated in this way. These Roses require considerable care during the summer as to moisture, but the results are so satisfactory that we shall grow fewer in pots in the future, and then only for later crops. The growing of Roses in boxes has much to recommend it, for few private establishments can spare a house for hybrid Roses the year round, when there are so many uses tor a glass structure in summer. To have good Chrysanthemum-blooms, these also must be grown entirely under glass. The culture of Violets in frames may also be counted among the lost arts unless some better means can be devised for fighting the dread disease than those we now possess. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

11 October 1893
Orchid Notes
We have just passed through the period of the greatest scarcity of Orchids in flower, and are now entering upon the season which brings with it the finest display of the year. Much has been done in recent years to add to the charms of Orchid-houses in the autumn months, and we are reminded of this fact by the opening of the first Cattleya labiata. This new-old plant has been lavishly praised, perhaps, but when we consider the time of its flowering, its freedom of growth and its free-blooming habit, the commendation can hardly be called extravagant. We have in all twenty plants, and eighteen of these are flowering this season, and the other two were weak to begin with. All were repotted in shallow pans last spring, and many are producing four flowers from a growth, and one has five flowers open on one stem. Next season we may look for even more luxuriant growth. It must be admitted that, taken collectively, the flowers of C. labiata vera are not of such uniform excellence as those of other varieties of this species, such as C. Mendelli, C. Trianae, or even C. Percivalliana. The two best we have were bought with the collector's description attached and are good varieties, but the remainder are not remarkable for individual worth, except for the season at which they flower. C. labiata likes plenty of light, and it thrives well when grown in shallow, well-drained pans suspended from the roof. Another fine Cattleya, now in bloom, is C. Bowringiana. This belongs to a totally distinct section of the genus, and is by some considered to be a variety of C. Skinneri, which it certainly resembles when in flower, but in habit it is quite distinct. This also is of very free growth and is one of the very few Cattleyas that may be said to improve year after year; indeed, ours have grown so freely that they have been repotted every year. Care is taken to use only the best fern-root when repotting Cattleyas, as this will keep sound many years. Very little sphagnum moss is used with it, just enough to indicate the condition of the plant as to moisture, and it is then a simple matter to crack the pot in which the plant is growing and take off the pieces carefully, having ready a pot of suitable size in which to place the plant with as little root-disturbance as possible. In this way Cattleyas receive no check from repotting if it is done just as they are about to start into new growth. Cattleya Bowringiana is liable to be attacked by thrips during the growing season, and a close watch must be kept or the growth will be irreparably disfigured. In this respect it is similar to others of the two-leaved Cattleyas, as C. bicolor, C. amethystoglossa, C. Leopoldii and C. intermedia; it is also liable to receive injury from water lodging in the young growths, and in this respect is singular, so far as I have observed. We keep all the above-namned plants at the warmest end of the house and sponge them frequently with Fir-tree oil during the growing season.
European cultivators lay great stress on the desirability of preventing Cattleyas from starting into a second growth the same season, and their writings at times are perplexing to American growers. I fancy the climate here hastens the maturity of the bulbs and increases the tendency to second growth, but it is also a common occurrence for the plants to flower from both bulbs at the same time, a fact due in part, I believe, to the greater amount of sunshine here; but whether, in allowing this to take place, we are burning the candle at both ends, time alone will tell. One of the best English growers has just asserted that the average life of a Cattleya there, in full vigor, is about six years; after this it taxes the skill of the best cultivators to keep them in vigor, especially if they have flowered freely. One thing is fairly certain, that the system practiced there of keeping Cattleyas dry for a long period to induce rest, would here cause their deterioration, as the material we use for potting holds far less moisture than the peat used almost entirely abroad. This question of premature growth has been a source of anxiety to me and also to others, but on mentioning it recently to one of the largest importers of Orchids he told me that Cattleya Trianae in Colombia was found in flower almost every month in the year, and that their collector had noticed this variety in bloom whenever he had passed through that region. This in part explains the apparently erratic behavior of newly established plants in our glass houses. So far as my observation goes, it takes Cattleyas of the Trianae section about six years to settle down to a normal season of rest and growth.: Perhaps some will call this a sign of deterioration, but let us be hopeful, at least, until a wider experience shatters our belief that the American climate is better suited to Orchid life than that of the Old World, even if temperatures do get beyond our control in summertime. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

18 October 1893
Mushrooms
There are few gardens containing special arrangements for the culture of Mushrooms, as caves and houses specially built for this purpose are not often seen. But places that are suitable for the production of a crop without any expenditure, except for the material and labor, are quite common in almost every garden where the greenhouses are built on the modern plan with benches or stages in the interior. We have a house wherein are two centre benches of Chrysanthemums; the benches are about three feet from the ground, and under these is the natural soil or gravel floor. By placing hemlock-boards on edgeagainst the legs of the benches we have at once as good a Mushroom-bed as can be desired, and hitherto have not failed of a crop. One cart-load of manure is available a week, and this is spread out-of-doors to dry, and is turned over every day once or twice. At night it is heaped up and shutters are placed over it in case of rain, and in a week it is dry enough to make into beds indoors. I like to have it so dry that the hands are not soiled by contact, and that it does not contain moisture enough to cause it to stick to the bricks used to make the beds firm. The old-time plan of mixing loam with the manure is a good one, especially if a heap of perfectly dry loam is prepared and covered up during summer. The loam will then act first as an absorbent of ammonia, and, besides this, as a regulator of the heat of the newly made beds, for whenever a bed heats violently-say, over 100 degrees Fahrenheit, the heat is rarely sustained as long as desirable to promote a healthy spreading of the mycelium, or spawn, through the bed, without which there cannot, of course, be any success. As soon as it is certain that the heat will not be violent we plant the spawn and cover with loam when the heat is on the decline, and if the temperature of the bed is still decreasing about six inches of hay is put on as a covering. This brings the heat up again through the spawn to the surface of the bed. Our first-made beds stand now at eighty-five degrees, and will not vary more than five degrees until the crop appears.
After the first crop is gathered a good soaking of manure-water is applied - that from the cow-barn is best - and we get a second and sometimes a third crop from the beds before the warm days of spring make it too hot a place for success. It should be stated that the minimum temperature of the house is fifty degrees, and fire-heat is rarely used until the Chrysantlhemum buds begin to show color; after these are past, Violets are grown in the same benches with hybrid Roses, for spring flowering, the side tables being occupied with Pinks permanently.
I fear we are too liable to blame the spawn for lack of success, for there are many other causes of failure, only to be found out by careful watching. Scarcely any two growers agree in the minutiae of their practice, and there certainly seems to be no royal road to assured success. Each season we gather a quantity of the very best Mushrooms from a bench containing Mignonette. We have gathered there already and shall continue to do so, more or less, all winter. The soil in the benches is twelve inches deep and is made very rich; the material, from an old bed is mixed in at the time of putting in the soil, the last week in July, and manure-water is used just as soon as the Mignonette is ready to cut. This season we have spawned a portion of the Mignonette-bed to see how this will result. The cool, moist bed of soil in which the Mignonette grows seems just suited to the development of the best Mushrooms, but it must be remembered that the spawn runs during the period of warm weather, when the bed is not kept so moist as it is later, when the Mignonette requires frequent watering. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

1 November 1893
Autumn Work
A really sharp frost has brought about a decided change in the aspect of the garden, and it is now possible to put things in order for the winter. It is generally acknowledged that to dig over a border of herbaceous plants, with a view to benefit them, is an operation requiring decided skill, an accurate knowledge of the location of each plant or bulb and the manner in which the roots are disposed. This knowledge is not given to all, even if the time to act upon it were at our disposal, hence the fork or spade is never used in our border, except when planting is to be done. Once the border is planted for a permanent effect, if this be done with forethought, there remains very little to do beyond thinning out and transplanting occasionally. But borders need replenishing every year with food for their occupants for the next season, and this can be supplied at this season better than at any other. The growth of most plants is now matured, and can be cut down and all the debris removed, including weeds (and some very good garden-plants attain to this distinction if given an opportunity), and when all is cleared off a good coating of well-pulverized manure or leaf-mold may be placed over the whole border. There need be no fear of smothering the plants; the rains and the worms will carry most of it down to the roots, and the digging-in process may easily be dispensed with, and the plants will thus be saved from the dangers which a spade, especially in unskilled hands, always threatens.
The unusually dry fall weather has retarded all planting operations, and the bulk of this must, with us, remain to be done in spring, hence other work, and, in fact, all possible work, should now be pushed to help out in the spring rush. Where it is intended to plant, the ground can be prepared and dug deep. I always like to double-dig-that is, twice the depth of the spade-by keeping a wide open trench where it is intended to plant for a permanent effect, adding the manure as the work proceeds. This breaks up the subsoil. If this is poor, however, keep it at the bottom, but enrich it, and the roots of trees, shrubs and plants will go down and feast there and be out of the reach of temporary drought.
Vacancies will occur even in well-managed gardens, and, whether of trees or low-growing plants, it is equally true that there are each season gaps that require to be filled and in these emergencies the nursery garden, advocated before, is a very helpful adjunct. I have found that evergreen trees, when brought from a distance, do not always take kindly to new surroundings, especially if set out where it is presumed they will remain, and it is often best to set them where they can be carefully tended for the first year and allowed to make a second year's growth in the same position, and then a careful removal to permanent positions can easily be made with greater satisfaction to those concerned, who have had an opportunity to study their habits and requirements as to soil and exposure. After a tree is finally planted on the lawn its greatest enemy is the mowing-machine, and it is surprising what an amount of persuasion it takes to stop the machine just in time to miss the young growth at the tips of the lower branches, especially of fine young Conifers. We have been obliged to cut away a circle of sod underneath the branches, and around each tree, and put on a neat mulching; this also is of great benefit to the tree, it keeps the surface soil open and accessible to every drop of rain that falls, and while, as in the past season, the surrounding grass has been parched for want of rain, on removing a little of the mulch the soil under the trees always showed a damp surface, and not a tree suffered, except where the roots of Elms intruded. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

8 November 1893
Dendrobium Phalaenopsis Schroederianum
The introduction of this fine plant two years ago was an event in Orchid history, the importance of which, at that time, was hardly appreciated. Indeed, those who saw the first plants offered at auction had serious doubts as to the chances that some of them would ever recover from the effects of their long voyage from New Guinea. But it is now quite evident that there is no Dendrobium which rallies and becomes established so quickly as this one, and it is now apparent that the second season's growth under cultivation has advanced in most of the plants beyond any made in its own native wilds. This fact is the more remarkable as the sub-section Speciosa~, under which division D. Phaloenopsis is included, is remarkable for the difficulty of keeping the plants in good health. Hence, this is not only the best of its section, but one of the finest of all Dendrobiums in cultivation. To the grower no experience is more absorbing than the arrival of what appears to be nothing more than a bundle of dried sticks, and watching to discover what sort of a response this unpromising material will make to warmth and moisture. The dormant buds start from points where least expected, but in every case there is a start, though sometimes it is from the tops of the stems. These growths made from the tops of the bulbs should be allowed to mature, and when the time comes for them to start again they may be taken off a few inches below their union with the parent stem and potted up in small pots, or, better still, in shallow perforated pans. I have noticed also that the plants start better when suspended near the roof glass of the warmest house. When on the benches they do not thrive nearly as well, and snails are very partial to the young growths and roots. Thrips also are troublesome enemies, and must be got rid of by fumigation or sponging with soapy water as soon as they put in an appearance.
Dendrobium Phalaenopsis appears to grow mostly on trees, as most of the imported plants have pieces of bark still attached to the old masses of roots, and for this reason the roots do not seem to like a mass of material to bury themselves in, It will be found that the less material used the better, and frequent syringing will be all that is necessary to keep them in robust health during the growing period, which is the present time, with a quantity of plants obtained last June, but those obtained from an importation two years ago have already settled down to growing in the summer, and are flowering now, and will shortly be at rest.
The decorative value of this plant can hardly be overpraised. We use the flowers individually for boutonieres, or they can be used as a spray if desired. They keep in good condition for at least three weeks if not placed in a cooler temperature than the house they grow in. A reduction of heat seems to render them liable to spot and decay. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

8 November 1893
The Kitchen-garden
Celery, when put away in winter quarters, should have a place where plenty of air can be given on all favorable occasions. A celery-pit such as the large growers use is the most convenient place, and gives the best results with the least trouble. Celery-rust has troubled us more this year than usual, especially on the earlier crops, but another year we shall grow only for first and second early two sowings of White Plume, with Giant Paschal for storing away. This last is practically rust-proof, and the White Plume is the least liable to it of all early and mid-season kinds. Roots of all kinds - beets, turnips, carrots and salsify - should not be allowed to freeze severely in the open ground. Rather, lift them a little before winter comes in earnest, and store them in a cellar, where they will keep plump if covered with sand. Ruta Baga, if the leaves are merely trimmed off and the crowns left, start away freely if placed in a warm house in winter, and if the tops are covered with soil to blanch them, they make excellent vegetables for winter use. All the strong flavor seems to be lost in the blanching process. The earliest-made Mushroom-beds are beginning to show now, exactly six weeks from time of spawning, in a temperature of seventy-two degrees. We expect to have mushrooms from now on until the early spring months under the greenhouse benches. South Lancaster MA, E. O. O.

15 November 1893
Epidendrum radicans
This species, the most beautiful of its section, if not, indeed, of the whole genus, is not considered easy to flower by some growers, and partly on this account it is not often seen. There is no difficulty, however, about growing the plant, and it is really one of the easiest and quickest of Orchids to grow and increase. On the 20th of February, 1891, a small branch or cutting was obtained, which has developed into a plant that now has seven growths that are showing flower spikes, with many other secondary ones that should flower another season. Epidendrum radicans is a native of Guatemala, where it grows among long grass in full exposure to the sun, so it seemed perfectly rational to place the plant in the Rose-house at the end, where it would get the full benefit of the sunshine all summer, with frequent syringing in hot weather. This treatment was evidently agreeable, but smaller plants should be placed in a warmer house the first year, to induce rapid growth, as they should have some size before being placed in the sun. This species does not form bulbs as other Epidendrums do, but the slender stems grow upward for about four feet, roots being sent out from below each pair of leaves, which grow downward until they reach the sphagnum growing on the surface of the pot. The roots then strike deep into the potting material, and hold the plant in position, so that in appearance it is always striking to the most uninterested observer. But when the large heads of brilliant scarlet flowers are produced there are few Orchids that surpass this Epidendrum in brilliance of display. It is also known as E. rhizopharum. South Lancaster MA, E. O. O.

22 November 1893
Lachenalias
As the flowering season of these pretty Cape bulbs comes round each year, it is always a matter of surprise that the Lachenalias are so little known and cultivated. For the window-garden, or, indeed, for any purpose where other bulbs are grown in pots, these are in every way satisfactory, the more so that they can be grown year after year and increase rapidly with ordinary care. The kinds that are best known in gardens are those of the larger-growing species; many of the smaller-growing kinds are, it is true, more curious than beautiful, but it is a mistake to apply this phrase to the whole genus, as is done in one work on Bulbs recently issued. L. pendula is with us the largest and earliest to bloom, and is now, with cool treatment, in full bloom. The scapes of flowers resemble the Roman Hyacinth somewhat, but the flowers are bright red, yellow and green-tipped; the foliage of L. pendula is broad and green, while in L. tricolor it is distinctly spotted with round black spots, as is also L. Nelsoni. This last is the brightest-colored of all, the flowers being of the clearest golden-yellow, with scarlet margins. Lachenalias need a long period of rest after flowering, and as soon as the foliage dies down we shake them out of the soil and sort the bulbs in sizes and store them away in dry sand until August. The largest are then potted in six-inch pots or eight-inch pans, and the smaller ones are put in boxes to grow on to the flowering size. All are then placed in cold-frames until cold weather comes, when they are brought into the cool greenhouse. The treatment usually given to Freesias will suit the Lachenalias admirably, both being natives of south Africa. It is not too late to procure bulbs now for later spring blooming. South Lancaster MA, E. O. O.

29 November 1893
Oncidium ornithorhynchum
Mexican Orchids for the most part take very kindly to cultivation here in the United States, and this Oncidium is one of the most tractable. It appears to thrive equally well in the cool-house or in a warmer one, and our success with a plant originally presented induced the purchase of twelve others, more especially because of their agreeable spicy, but quite undefinable fragrance. The original plant was obtained two years ago in a four-inch pot, and owing to the way the plant has of making two growths each year from the last-made bulb, it is now in a nine-inch pan and a fountain of charming pink flowers; the spikes are much branched, many of them two feet long and the foliage of a rich green. There is a white form of this Oncidium, at present extremely rare in cultivation, but very beautiful. O. ornithorynchum is an easy plant to grow and appears to need no resting period, as the young growths start before the flowers have faded each year, and the bulbs increase in size until they become as large as hens eggs, and these produce two the next season. Repotting is done directly after the plants have past flowering, that is, during the fall months. We have had plants in bloom now for three months, and the small sprays are very useful for boutonnieres because of their airy grace and fragrance. The specific name of this Oncidium has reference to the peculiar appendage to the anthers, which seem to resemble a bird's beak. South Lancaster MA, E. O. O.

6 December 1893
Greenhouse Work
After the Chrysanthemums are past, a reorganization of the greenhouses is generally necessary; the space lately taken up by those plants is now vacant and available for the regular winter occupants. Our whole stock of old plants of Chrysanthemums is taken out of the beds and pots and planted in cold-frames for the winter. Last winter these were frozen for two months, but we never had better cuttings than we had this spring; they appear to like the complete rest. In planting, care should be taken to leave a good space between the rows, as some kinds are apt to throw out underground shoots, and the varieties may become mixed when the time comes to take cuttings. For late cuttings for bench-planting in June these stock plants will bear topping in April; this will give another crop in May, the second or third week. It is preferable to keep the scarce varieties in a cool greenhouse, so that they can be propagated during early spring. Now that the one-bloom system is so much in favor, the carrying over of considerable stock is absolutely necessary to enable one to take such a large quantity of cuttings at a given period.
All tender plants that have been in frames should now be removed to the greenhouse and placed in winter quarters - Azaleas, Ericas, Primulas, Cinerarias, Freesias, Cyclamen, Calceolarias, Lachenalias, and all such plants that are liable to injury from cold, such as we may experience any time now. For fumigating plants that are liable to aphides during winter we have for some time used the tobacco-leaf instead of the stems or mid-rib. The leaf is a damaged grade that costs from eight to twelve cents a pound, and is the cheapest fumigating material we have found yet, inasmuch as a very small amount of this tobacco is sufficient to kill the insects, a smaller volume of smoke is required since it is so much more pungent, and in our experience of over two years with this material not a plant has suffered from scorching, an occurrence quite common when so much smoke was needed to kill. A slight periodical smoking, say, once in ten days, is far more effectual than waiting until the insects are very abundant. During the winter months the conditions are very favorable to the increase of green fly, and these give place in summer to the black fly, which is much harder to kill by fumigation, but is very susceptible to a weak solution of Fir-tree oil.
During the past year or two the Carnation rust has been pretty well disseminated throughout the country; indeed, it is very hard to secure a good stock of Carnations free from disease. We bought the rust two years ago with a new variety, and our experience is by no means unique. The easiest way to check it that we have tried is spraying with Fir-tree oil, using the mixture warm and of the same strength recommended for mildew. This same solution has proved an effectual cure for one of the worst cases of mildew on Roses I have ever had to deal with.
Where a number of Rubber-plants are used for decoration, there are always some that have lost their lower leaves and look dilapidated; these should be topped now and the portions of the stem having foliage can be cut into lengths and propagated, and at least two-thirds will root if put in at this time. It is a good plan to place the newly made cuttings in dry sand for a few hours, when the milky sap will coagulate and seal over the cut and aid considerably in root-formation. It will be found also that the more abject the old plant the better the cuttings taken from it will root. Strong, unripened wood of Rubber-plants rarely root freely; cuttings taken a year ago are now most serviceable plants, about two feet high; after rooting the young plants need liberal treatment, as they are gross feeders.
Poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) are now developing their bracts, and need abundant liquid nourishment to develop them to perfection and to enable them to retain their foliage. The Poinsettia is a very valuable plant for Christmas decorations, and repays any care bestowed on it. When used in a cut state they should be cut three days before they are wanted, and the stems immersed their whole length in a tank or bath. Enough water will be absorbed in this time to make them keep fresh through any ordinary period, and the same treatment will apply to E. Jacquinmeflora equally well.
The garden varieties of Amaryllis are now becoming very popular, and will be even more so as their merits are better understood. This is a good time to obtain seeds of a good strain and sow them in a gentle warmth. Seedlings will flower two years from now if treated liberally and grown on without check. After the flowering period is reached an annual rest will be necessary at this time. The pots should be placed in a temperature of about fifty degrees, and kept moderately dry until growth commences in spring, when they will need potting in new soil, the old exhausted soil being shaken out. A packet of Amaryllis-seed, costing one dollar, will give about fifty plants. I have found that imported bulbs take as long to establish them as is needed to raise and flower seedlings, and the quality of the latter is far superior. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

20 December 1893
Oncidium Gravesianum
This plant is one of the latest additions to the already long list of Oncidiums known to cultivators, many of which, however, have proved very short-lived under artificial conditions; this species, however, appears to have no weakness of this sort, and increases every year. It is a native of Pernambuco and was discovered and imported with Cattleya labiata by Sander & Co. There is a figure of O. Gravesianum in the Gardeners' Chronicle, May 21, I892, but it does not do justice to the variety in bloom with us, being much more star-like in outline and suggesting that the flowers were poor ones borne on newly imported plants. Our plants, when received, were thick masses of copper-colored bulbs, just as they had been torn from the branches of trees in Brazil, and these are now flowering from the second season's growth made in this country. There is a very strong resemblance in the flowers to those of 0. crispum, and a variety of this now in bloom is almost identical in color with 0. Gravesianum. The resemblance ends with the flowers, the growth being very distinct. The whole flower is a rich dark bronze, the inner half of the lip being bright yellow; there are over twenty flowers on each of the three panicles borne on the plant, and they appear to last a long time in good condition. 0. Gravesianum thrives well at the cool end of the Cattleya-house, where a temperature of fifty degrees at night during winter seems to suit it, and prevents the tendency to premature growth, which is apparently a habit of this species when cultivated. Messrs. Linden's collectors state that in the district where the Cattleya labiata was rediscovered no rain had fallen for ten years, the plants being wholly dependent upon the heavy dews for their supply of moisture, and this bit of circumstantial evidence gives us a clue to the treatment of our acquisitions from this region, which all bear, more or less, the appearance of having been exposed to a fierce sun, and a thorough ripening process, such as a scanty supply of water would naturally bring about.
The Orchid-weevil
When writing recently of Dendrobium Phalaenopsis I quite omitted to speak of the danger to cultivators of introducing that dread pest the orchid-weevil, which has left unmistakable evidence of its ravages on most of the plants as they were imported. The fact is, I had not found any of the insects since the plants came six -months ago; but the other day there were two plants whose bulbs were discolored and felt soft to the touch. A dissection disclosed several of the grubs in each bulb. While there is, perhaps, no reason for alarm when one is forearmed, it would be disastrous if, through oversight, this pest should gain a footing in the Orchid-houses throughout the country. There is no known remnedy except to cut off the affected bulbs and burn them. This is harsh treatment, but it must be rigorously followed up if we would keep our plants in health. I believe it is easier to detect the insect in the bulbs of a Dendrobium than in those of a Cattleya, as they are slender, and a cavity is more evident to the touch, hence we need have no fear of being able to control these invaders in the case of this Dendrobium. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

27 December 1893
Early Cauliflower
Early vegetables are always appreciated, and there is little difficulty in having Cauliflower as early as the first week in April without elaborate preparation or appliances. The delicate flavor of Cauliflower at this time of the year is not equaled at any other season, excepting, perhaps, late in autumn. During hot weather the flavor is usually strong, so that it is advisable to make an effort to have this vegetable when at its best. There are many strains of Cauliflower now that are all equally good when obtained from reliable seedsmen, but preference should be given to the dwarf-growing kinds for early crops, as they take up less space and produce nice heads to each plant, with not more than five per cent of failure to head up. The first sowing should be made in the greenhouse on the first of January, and as soon as the seeds are germinating they must be placed close up to the glass in a house kept at about fifty degrees at night. By the last of the month these will be ready to pot up singly in two-inch pots, and a second pinch of seed should then be sowed; in three weeks the earliest will be ready to put in four-inch pots, and the last sown ready to pot off, and by the tenth of March the largest may be put into six inch pots, as their growth is very rapid at this season. About this time we begin to get the cold frames empty, to fill again as hot-beds; many of the Violets may be spared, and other winter occupants, such as bulbous plants and Roses, will all have been taken into the greenhouse, so that considerable space is available. The hot-beds are generally finished and ready for planting by the 20th of March, and a warm day is chosen to move the Cauliflower from the greenhouse to the frames, and they are taken out of the pots and planted. A good watering with tepid water is given at the time, as drought at any period is liable to make them head up prematurely. In preparing the hot-beds, two feet of fermenting material is sufficient; half of this is composed of leaves that have been placed round the cold-frames in winter, so that one load of manure goes a long way, and the heat being less violent it consequently lasts longer when the leaves are mixed in.
About six or eight inches of loam is used to plant in, and if the material of a spent Mushroom-bed is available there is nothing better than this for mixing with the loam, ior it not only lightens up the soil and makes it porous, but very often another crop of Mushroomrs will appear in a few weeks after planting in Cauliflower, the fermenting material giving the spawn a stimulus that will start it again into activity. The second and third sowings of Cauliflower are potted and treated like the first, except that they are planted in frames out of four-inch pots, the principal point being to take care that the young plants never receive a check, from want of room or water. Later sowings are made at intervals of three weeks, for the home table demands not so much a large supply as a regular one until the outdoor crops begin to mature. These later sowings are planted in the open ground and protected, if cold nights prevail, as they sometimes do, even late in May, in this section.
It is pretty well known, but will bear repetition, that the Cauliflower will repay any extra attention, and is one of the few vegetables that quickly respond to watering with fertilizers even in the open ground. This was evident last autumn, when a large patch of the plants were at a standstill owing to dry weather, and it was extremely doubtful whether they would head before frost came. Nevertheless a good soaking of weak manure-water brought them along rapidly, and scarcely one failed, as the later ones were taken up and the roots laid in a trench with the heads close together, and at night straw was thrown over them to protect them from frost. For earliest sowings we use Early Dwarf Erfurt pot-grown seed; for the later sowings, Snowball, Danish and Krouk's Perfection are good varieties. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

10 January 1894
Work in the Greenhouse
With the arrival of the new year comes a quantity of work that is best done at this period, and seed-sowing and propagation can now be carried on under exceptionally favorable conditions. Small seeds, such as those of Gloxinias, Begonias, Streptocarpus and many others which are slow to germinate, are best sown now. Small seeds, such as those named, should never be covered with soil, but sown on the surface after the soil has been made moderately firm and quite level, and after it has been thoroughly watered. A gentle heat under the pans or boxes will materially aid germination and assist the young plants in the earlier stages of their growth. It is often recommended that a sheet of glass be placed over the pans or boxes after the seed is sown, and this is beneficial when care is taken to guard against the fungus-growth peculiar to boxes of choice young seedlings; unless the condensed moisture is carefully wiped from the glass every day, the result of much care is sometimes swept away in a few hours.
If Cyclamen seeds have not been sown earlier, no time should be lost before doing this work. Seeds sown now and grown on without a check all summer make neat plants to flower next winter, but sowing in September is preferable. Where old plants can be carried over safely through the summer, if they do well they are better than young ones, as a greater number of flowers are obtained to a plant. Seeds of herbaceous plants sown now will come up well, and, if transplanted before they become crowded in the seed-boxes, will make strong plants to set out in spring. Most of them will flower next summer, although some will not do so until the second year, no matter when they are sown, while seeds of Iris, Paeonies, Hellebores, Dictamnus and others take at least three years before flowering size is reached, and, indeed, if these are not sown as soon as gathered they often remain dormant a year before germinating, so they should always be sown as soon as ripe, when this is practicable.
We commence propagating Carnations about the tenth of January, this being a good time to root them, and the weaker growing sorts, such as Lizzie McGowan and Grace Wilder, are secured first. There is a tendency in the flowers of this latter kind to come streaky in color, and this may be avoided to a great extent by taking all cuttings from the plants that do not show this tendency. Daybreak is now recognized as a standard kind, but to secure well-shaped plants at lifting time, cuttings should be taken as late as possible, and as Daybreak roots more easily than any kind I know, it is possible to take cuttings as late as May and to have fine plants at lifting time. Carnation cuttings do not like sunshine or drought; plenty of water, shade and gentle bottom-heat will secure success.
Among greenhouse plants, Ericas, Boronias, Dipladenias, Luculia gratissima and Rubber-plants can now be propagated with more success than at any time; when Ficus cuttings are made we place the cut ends in dry sand to heal over for a few hours before putting them in the cutting-bench, and when the cut is thus healed very few fail to root. Bouvardias are best increased by root-cuttings at this time, and it is also preferable to raise new plants each year, as these give better flowers, though, perhaps, fewer in number. Peperomias make ideal plants for house-decoration, and a few leaves taken now and rooted in the same way that Begonia Rex is treated, will soon form useful material for use later on.
If seedlings of Ferns are coming up in various places in the greenhouses they should be carefully lifted and pricked off in pans, to be potted later; these make nice plants for jardinieres during the summer or to grow on. Adiantums do not come so spontaneously as many others do, and to secure a quantity of these a sowing of spores at this time will give a good supply. Old plants, divided into small pieces and started in the propagating-bench, will also make good plants, but they are never as shapely as seedlings are. The colored-leaved Dracamenas, when used for furnishing the house, soon lose their bottom leaves and become unsightly. If the tops are very highly colored, after making cuttings of them, they will root far better if placed in bottles of water than in sand, a little charcoal being added to keep the water sweet. The cuttings should be potted as soon as roots form, which will require about a month if the bottles are stood in a warm place. The stems may be cut in lengths of two inches, to be placed in a flat and covered with chopped sphagnum moss and sand. If the flat is placed on the hot-water pipes to get a good bottom-heat, every piece will grow, and these make the best plants, although they require a longer time than the tops. The tops are earlier in showing color. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

31 January 1894
Chinese Primroses
Few plants have been taken in hand by old-time cultivators which yielded to improvement so readily as Primula Sinensis. We are forcibly reminded of this by the rediscovery of the wild plant in the mountains of Ichang by Dr. Henry and others, after the lapse of seventy years or more. In the original plant the petals are deeply lobed in the centre and perfectly smooth at the edges, but through the selective skill of the cultivator these features are eliminated, and in their place we have a perfectly round flower, the petals thick in texture, exquisitely fringed, and of almost every conceivable shade of color except yellow. It must be remembered, also, that all of this is due to training and selection alone, and none of it to hybridizing, for P. Sinensis has hitherto refused to cross with any of its relatives; that we have pure white, deep red, crimson, pink and lavender shades of this flower from the original color, and that a poor one is a result which helps us to appreciate what can be accomplished by patient striving with a definite aim in view.
At all events, we have secured a most useful winter-flowering plant within the reach of any one who can command the use of the most modest greenhouse. Our summer weather is rather too warm to be exactly adapted to the needs of the Chinese Primrose, but in a cold frame, placed in a shady position, the plants grow well during the hottest weather, especially if the sashes are removed at night to give them the benefit of the night dews. These Primulas are most useful from November to February, a period when there is always a dearth of good pot-plants in flower, and to have good plants at this time an early start must be made, so we always sow seed the last week in March. The seed germinates slowly, and often unevenly, so that it is best to take out the largest ones as soon as they are of sufficient size to be moved, and this will give the weaker ones a chance. For potting material, good loam, leafmold stacked one year and chopped fine, some material from a spent Mushroom-bed, and plenty of sand added, make a compost that Primulas, Cinerarias and Cyclamens delight in. It rarely pays to pot Primulas in pots larger than a six-inch size unless huge specimen plants are required. For such a purpose the most vigorous plants may be selected during summer and grown on as vigorously as possible. Plants from seed sown earlier than the date recommended often flower prematurely, and the colors are never good until the cool winter months, neither are they seasonable. As has been said already, a cool place in summer is desirable for the growth of Primulas, but on the approach of cold damp weather in fall it is best to remove the plants to a cool greenhouse where a temperature of at least fifty degrees can be maintained at night, with a rise of a few degrees by day. Careful attention to watering is essential during the dull months of winter, or the plants decay at the level of the soil.
The so-called blue Primulas are more delicate than those of other colors; so much so that to secure good plants it is best to sow the seeds at least a month earlier than the other kinds. More warmth, too, is required in the autumn months to do them justice; but any extra attention is well repaid for the shades of lavender showing up most attractively among the intense crimsons and pure whites. Special varieties are so numerous now that it is impossible to keep account of them, but we have been much pleased this season with Rosy Queen, a beautiful soft pink, the color being uniform and the foliage Fern-leaved. Gipsy Oueen is also distinct, having deep purple at leaf-stems and pure white flowers, a striking contrast that is noticed at once.
There is also an improvement in the double varieties one can obtain from seed, and these flowers last longer than the single ones, but are not so effective. A race of perfectly double Primulas was formerly cultivated and perpetuated by means of cuttings each year. These were known as Gilbert's strain, and very beautiful they were, but we do not hear much about them now, though I remember them as being very handsome, although not easy to propagate. We have heard much during the last two years of the " Moss-curled" section, varieties that have foliage much crisped at the edge, and are novel in this respect, but the flowers are poor and small, and neither single nor double. The single ones with plain foliage are far better for all purposes.
Chinese Primroses can be relied on to come true from seed if procured from good sources, and this is a great point in their favor. On the contrary, it is most difficult to obtain a good strain of Cineraria-seed. On one occasion I had such a strain, and attempted to perpetuate it by careful isolation and use of a camel's-hair brush, but the results did not warrant the attempt again. There would be a great demand for a reliable strain of Cinerarias if good seed could be obtained as readily as that of Primulas, Gloxinias, Cyclarnens and Calceolarias. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

7 February 1894
Greenhouse Work
The busy period of spring potting and seed-sowing is rapidly approaching, and it is good practice at this time to get a quantity of soil ready for use, so that it may be in proper condition when it is wanted. Loam, leaf-mold and sand are the basis of our potting composts, with ground bone added for all such plants as are to remain in pots for a long period, as, for example, those that are potted annually. Hard-wooded plants do not like bone in the soil, and when potting Azaleas, Ericas, Boronias, greenhouse Rhododendrons and plants of like nature a separate compost is made up. It is a safe rule to follow, that plants of strong root-action need more loam and less leaf-mold, and vice versa.
Of the stock of Amaryllis all that are starting have been repotted, as also all the seedlings of the past year. Those that are still dormant are left until later, so as to provide a succession of bloom. The Amaryllis which are evergreen do not need so decided a period of rest as the deciduous varieties; this is the best time to repot these before root-growth commences.
Gloxinias have now started. The largest plants should be potted on, to be followed later by other plants as they require it. The worst enemy of the Gloxinia is thrips; where these get a footing all chance of bloom is lost, and the trouble is often unsuspected until too late to remedy it the same season. The white Orchid-thrips are the worst to get rid of. Continued fumigation sometimes proves a remedy, but this cannot be done after the flowers open, or some of them will be spoiled. We intend this season to dust the plants frequently with tobacco-powder during the earlier stages of growth.
In a few days we shall begin to pot all the warm-house plants. Crotons, Dracaenas, Marantas and other foliage-plants will all be looked over, cleaned when this is necessary, and repotted. When this work in the warm-house is finished it will be time to begin to pot the plants in the cool-house. These are better potted on a month later, as growth does not begin as early as it does in the warmer house. Where Nepenthes are grown, and they have ceased to produce pitchers on the last-made leaves, the plants must be cut down to within an inch or two of the base. If less water is applied for a week or two, new growths will soon start, and these will develop their characteristic pitchers. If the soil is in poor condition the plants should be shaken out and potted in a compost of sphagnum-moss and fern-root. A mixture such as is used for Cypripediums is best for them. Cuttings of Nepenthes may be rooted in a brisk bottom-heat if they are taken off at this time and put in small pots, with moss and fern-root tied round the base of the cutting to keep it firm. From two to three months are usually required to establish the roots, and after this the plants grow rapidly.
Young Cyclamens from seed sown last fall should now be large enough to pot off into small pots. The smaller the pots, the better to start with, for Cyclamens are very impatient of overpotting at any season, and more especially at this time of year. The soil should be made porous, and plenty of sand must be added or a little powdered charcoal. Charcoal is always a desirable addition to potting-soil, or soil for seedsowing, as it keeps it both sweet and loose. Old bulbs of Cyclamen when past flowering should not be dried off. This is sometimes done to the great injury of the bulbs for the next season's use. They may be placed under the benches, not altogether out of sight, and water must be supplied as long as the leaves remain. In spring a cold frame will suit them well. If leaf-mold is sifted over them so that the spaces between the pots are filled up, and about an inch of soil put over the bulbs themselves, little water will be needed, but In wet weather the sashes must be put on. By June some of the bulbs will have started, and these may be taken out and potted, and the remaining ones treated likewise as soon as they start to grow. We have had good success with old Cyclamen-plants under this treatment.
A very useful plant to have in small pots is Asparagus tenuissimus. This species roots easily from cuttings. It is a good time to put them in now, and they will be rooted in about six weeks. A. plumosus will not root from cuttings, but must be obtained from seeds or layers. When the latter plan is adopted, care must be taken to let the end of the shoot remain out of the ground to continue growing; young plants will then start from each of the branches along the stem. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

28 February 1894
Carnation William Scott
Those who are in search of a good pink Carnation would do well to try this variety; it is similar to Grace Wilder in habit, and resembles it in color, too, when at its best. There appears to be no tendency in William Scott to burst its calyx; the petals are beautifully fringed and the blooms are well built up in the centre. It has taken a long timne to produce a good Carnation that would take the place of Grace Wilder, but there are several candidates now that promise well, and hereafter there should be no excuse for ragged flowers or those poor in color. There is great difficulty now in knowing how to select from the many new ones sent out each year, and unless one has some knowledge of the history of a new kind, it is best to wait until it has stood the test of the first year after distribution. This plan, of course, would be bad for the disseminator, but would generally benefit the cultivator. New Carnations are either overpropagated when put on the market, or else extremely local in their good behavior, this latter trait even showing itself in the same town or locality. English-raised varieties seldom do well in this climate, but we are much pleased with Winter Cheer, tried this season for the first time; it is a good scarlet of bright color and does not turn dark as some do; the habit is dwarf and very vigorous; thus far no rust has attacked it. As a potplant it is the ideal variety, as the stems are stiff and need no support. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

7 March 1894
Dendrobium Phalaenopsis Schroederianum
I have spoken of this valuable new plant in vol. vi., p. 467, of GARDEN AND FOREST, but I am prompted to say more of it now that the plants are in full bloom. This is not the usual period of flowering. Established plants generally flower in the dull autumn months and are very useful then, but those now in bloom were obtained last June as dried imported plants, and consequently started late. They all grew well, and every plant is now showing flowers. There is a wide range of color in the plants already flowered, some being dark and others pure white, with rose shadings over the petals and lip. The paler forms are cer tainly the more pleasing and seem to predominate. When this Dendrobium becomes fully established and makes a growth equal to that of the imported plants, we shall be surprised at the number of flowers to each spray. Full exposure to the sun in winter is necessary to mature the growth, especially where this has been made late, and also a position in the warmest house, with a minimum of sixty degrees at night. It is essentially a warm-house plant. Even when in bloom it does not do to move the plants to a cooler temperature, as the flowers soon spot and quickly decay from damp. Another point worth noting is that a very small portion of potting material is sufficient about the roots, at least until the plants become well established. We pot them in shallow pans with holes in the sides, and suspend them close to the roof glass. Thrips and red spider are very partial to the young shoots, but in the growing season frequent spraying will keep these pests in check and benefit the plants also. South Lancaster MA, E. O. O.

14 March 1894
Imantophyllum miniatum
This is a plant more often seen in old gardens than in those of recent origin; in other words, it is considered an old-fashioned plant. There are too many such that we rarely meet, although they are sometimes made popular by a sudden freak of fashion, and every one then sees how real merit has been unsuspected or forgotten. Clivia nobilis and C. miniatum are very old-garden plants, and under these names were much grown at one time, then almost forgotten, until a set of hybrids of improved color and size appeared to awaken fresh interest in them. Clivia is still the correct name, but as Imantophyllum has become so well fixed in gardens, it has been retained for every-day use.
The newer varieties are as yet quite rare, owing to the slow means of propagation, by division only, and the consequent high price. It also happens that as soon as they become known, the demand equals the supply, and this helps to keep the price high. It is easy to raise seedlings of a plant impregnated with its own pollen when in flower; it takes about a year, however, to mature the seed, and three or four years more to get the plants to flowering size, but it is interesting work, and gives one something to look forward to. The Imantophyllum belongs to the Amaryllideae, but will not cross with the Amaryllis proper. At least, such has been my experience, while others have succeeded in raising hybrids from Eucharis and Urceolina, both genera of the same order.
As decorative plants the Imantophyllums rank high. The broad, dark green, strap-shaped foliage is ornamental at all seasons, while the bright orange-red of the flowers, which are produced in the early spring months, are most useful, owing to their lasting qualities, distinct color and long stems. An ordinary greenhouse temperature of fifty degrees is best suited to these plants, though young ones may be nursed along in a warmer house. Strong sunshine is injurious even at this time of the year, and causes the foliage to lose its healthy dark green color and to become a sickly yellow. A shady position is, therefore, essential. We sometimes place them under the benches when not in active growth. Repotting is best done in spring, but the plants should not be disturbed often at the roots. A good sound potting-soil is best - a mixture of loam, made porous with powdered charcoal and sand, with a little bone-meal added as a fertilizer of long-lasting properties. Young growing plants require repotting annually, but those of flowering age may be examined once in two years, and this will be found often enough, unless the drainage is found to be at fault. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

4 April 1894
Work in the Flower-garden
Protective coverings for flower-beds have not been of so much value during the past winter as in some seasons, owing to the heavy coat of snow that has remained on the ground all winter. The ground did not freeze at all in many places, and the growth of all bulbous plants will consequently be well advanced. To-day I examined some Lilies in the Rhododendron bed, upon which a mass of leaves had been placed, and growth above ground had already begun, so that great care was necessary in removing the litter. The same is also true of the Narcissus bed; formerly a covering for these plants was not thought needful, but some of the Spanish Daffodils do not come up strong after a hard winter, and we now cover the whole bed in the fall after the ground has frozen a little.
In this section but few plants have yet begun to move in the borders, but as soon as they do, any transplanting that needs attention should be done without delay. It is best to wait until plants start to grow before disturbing them, as they then start off more freely after the shift. Herbaceous plants raised under glass must be carefully hardened off before setting them out, for indoor treatment makes them tender.
In the cultivation of Hollyhocks, we find it best to raise a new lot each year and to set them out in their permanent places in spring in well-prepared soil. There is thus a chance to protect them in the fall; no loss is sustained from winter-killing, and there is little check from spring transplanting. After Hollyhocks flower once, they are easy victims to severe cold alternated with thaws, and they are not to be relied upon the second year. The sowing for the following year's display should be made in the latter part of July. The same treatment applies to Canterbury-bells and Pansies; these are now being transplanted to the open borders where they are to flower, and between each, later on, will be planted annuals, such as Zinnias, Asters, or Stocks.
The larger portion of our Japan Anemones are grown in pots for the greater security of the bloom in fall. These are stored away in a cool cellar, and they often freeze during the winter; this does them no harm, but checks very early growth in spring. They are all starting now, and will soon be taken outdoors where a little protection can be given them on cold nights. Tritomas (Kniphofias) are treated in the same way; this early start assures an early blooming season and escape from premature fall frosts.
Sweet Peas can never be sown too early, though the mistake is often made of sowing them too late. They should be put into the ground at once. It is often difficult to carry Sweet Peas through the hot season, as they are very susceptible to drought. This was our trouble last year, and in trying to avoid a repetition we have dug a deep trench, and after taking out the sandy subsoil, replaced it with clay and filled in with good manure mixed through the better top soil. With occasional watering, we hope in this way to overcome the effect of the hot weather. Great advances have been made of late years in the quality of Sweet Peas; the difficulty now is to know which kinds to choose out of so many. We never depend on novelties, but always take well-known kinds of desired colors, when results may be counted upon.
An old but fine bedding-plant, too seldom seen, is Perilla Nankinensis. The rich dark foliage makes a fine background for a wide border, and the color keeps good throughout the season. A packet of seed will provide a large number of plants, and it is as easy to raise as most annuals. The foliage is a rich dark purple, and it is beautifully laciniated.
Roses have wintered better this year than I have ever known them to do; few gaps need filling, and even such kinds as La France and Duchess of Albany are in good vigor without any protection whatever, though their lack of protection was an oversight last fall. Spring is the best time for making new Rose-beds. Experiences in fall planting, even of American grown Roses, have only served to emphasize this fact. Where large beds of hardy Roses are grown in the flower-garden it is always best to keep a few in the reserve border to supply any losses; these should all be lifted and replanted every spring, so as to keep their roots from spreading too much. Frequent transplanting will keep a Rose in fit condition to move for years, and this is especially true where they are wanted in fall for winter forcing in pots or boxes. Outdoor Rose-culture is rather discouraging at times; rose-bugs seem to get the upper hand each year, no mater what is tried by way of prevention, and I am satisfied there is no cure; nothing seems to avail except hand-picking.
Cannas take a prominent part in all outdoor flower-gardening, and their full value is only beginning to be recognized. The newer kinds that have appeared in the last year or two will give a great stimulus to their use; such sorts as Star of 1891, Madame Crozy, Alphonse Bouvier, Florence Vaughan, Captain Suzzoni, Charles Henderson, J. D. Cabos, Paul Bruant and others have rapidly made names for themselves, especially at the World's Fair last summer, where they made one of the principal horticultural features. Roots ought to be started now, ready for planting out in June; the best results are obtained when the roots are well established in six-inch pots before planting-time. There is then no delay after planting, and they quickly furnish the space they are to fill. Cannas also make ideal subjects for planting in tubs or boxes for summer use near the house. For this purpose only the dwarf large-flowered kinds should be used, taking care to have rich soil and to feed them liberally as the season advances, for they are strong feeders. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

11 April 1894
Dendrobium Dalhousianum
This is one of the most vigorous of all East Indian Dendrobiums, and one of the most easy to grow; it is very free-flowering, too, since flowers are produced from the same stems for several years in succession. Our plants were obtained as newly imported dry plants. We have grown them for two years, and each year a quantity of racemes have appeared from the apparently lifeless stems that were made in India, where they had also flowered. The peculiar fawn-colored flowers have two rich maroon blotches on the lip, which renders them very striking even to any one not interested in Orchids. The plant requires the warmest house when in bloom, and a cooler place for a few weeks when growth is over. It is always late in finishing up the long stems in autumnn; our season is never too long for it, and, therefore, the resting period is shorter than with most Dendrobiums. The old stems should never be cut away until they are decayed and useless, for, as long as there is vitality in them, flowers will be produced in spring.
Fritillaria aurea
Last spring we took occasion to note the value of this early and beautiful spring-flowering bulb, and this, the second spring after planting, further proves its value for the open border, as it is perfectly hardy and needs no coddling. There was a fine colored plate of this Fritillary in the London Garden of July 23d, 1892, but the picture failed to do justice to the beautiful way in which the insides of the flowers are checkered with brown. It is also noticeable how the flowers vary, no two being marked alike inside, this probably being due to the fact that the bulbs are fresh from their native locality, the Taurus Mountains, in Cilicia, where it grows in alpine pastures. It is one of the earliest outdoor flowers with us, coming in with the first Narcissus. For its introduction we are indebted to Herr Max Leichtlin.
Double Hardy Violet
When all indoor Violets are past, and the single and double ones in the frames are about to finish flowering, the value of this variety when grown in frames becomes manifest. It is the darkest blue of all the varieties, is not liable to injury from disease, and is perfectly hardy even here. What the real name of the variety is I am by no means sure. It is known locally as the Cape Cod Violet, and has been sold as the double hardy Russian, but that it is an old variety which has survived its name appears fairly certain. It would be interesting to know what it really is. The only objection to it is that the stems are often very short, especially when grown outdoors, but this is easily overcome when grown in frames by encouraging a free leaf-growth. South Lancaster MA, E. O. O.

2 May 1894
Tulips
In a bed containing a number of species of Tulips, Tulipa Kauffmanni is the first to flower, and it is very distinct and beautiful. The large flower, borne on a short stem, is clear creamy yellow, with petals orange at the base, while on the outside they are bright crimson. There is no more distinct Tulip than this, and it is well worthy of cultivation where other species are grown. It should be more generally known that there are many of these Tulips that are both beautiful and hardy in the open ground, and that they will flower year after year when once planted. Of these we have the Parrot Tulips in quantity, T. elegans, T. cornuta (the Horned Tulip), T. Greigi, with prettily spotted leaves; T. Gesneriana and its many forms, T. Oculus solis (the Sun's-eye Tulip) and many others. We have several that are new to me, of which I hope to make note later.
The so-called Darwin Tulips belong to the late-blooming section, and they now look strong, with promise of good bloom later. Their chief value to us is that they come in so late in the season, and as they have very long stems they are useful to cut and put in vases for house-decoration. They are, if anything, hardier than the early-flowering section that are so much in use as bedding Tulips, and while the colors are not so gorgeous as those of the early single Tulips, they are much more varied and of softer hues. The term Darwin Tulips is of quite recent origin, though applied to a very old race of garden Tulips, heretofore known as Breeders, in the language of the old Tulip-fanciers. Once the value of these flowers is known, they cannot fail to become popular as hardy border bulbs, for in many respects they are capital plants for open-air culture in American gardens. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

2 May 1894
Caladiums
Among greenhouse-plants grown for their foliage alone none are more beautiful than the ornamental-leaved Caladiumrns. They are most serviceable as house-plants during summer, as they last well, and do not require the constant changing that flowering plants do when used in the dwellinghouse. The more recent varieties of Caladiums, known here as the Brazilian kinds, are most beautiful, and I never remember seeing better ones than those exhibited at Chicago last year. Some of the sorts have little green in the leaves, the texture being thin and transparent, delicately tinted with rosecolor on pale creamy white grounds. These are very handsome, but liable to injury by exposure to the direct rays of the sun in the greenhouses. In Florida, I am told, these plants are hardy, and it seems that where Crotons can be used as summer bedding-plants, Caladiums may also be expected to do well and to make a good effect, if given a shady position and rich moist soil. In this state neither the Crotons nor Caladiums are a great success as outdoor plants, and cannot be grown as I saw them in Washington last year, where, in the Botanic Gardens, they were as happy outdoors as they are in greenhouses here. The nights are too cool here, even in summer, for them to be used successfully to any great extent.
This is a good time to obtain good dry bulbs of these plants if they can be started in a nice warm house and be grown on without a check. But if a good heat cannot be had early in the year, it is better not to start them until later on. A rich light soil is desirable; loam and the material from a spent Mushroom-bed, made porous with sand, makes a rich soil that these plants delight in. They will be greatly benefited by manurewater later in the season. In the fall, when the leaves begin to decay and show signs of ripening off, is a critical period, and the plants then require the same careful attention or the bulbs will not ripen properly. They must have a good sunny position, even when no longer ornamental and when all the leaves have died off. I find it is best to shake the bulbs out and store them away in dry sand in a warm place. Last year they were put in the boiler cellar, and they came out in fine condition this spring. A temperature below fifty-five degrees for any length of time is fatal to these highly colored and delicate varieties of later introduction. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

9 May 1894
The Onion Maggot
We fought a losing battle with this enemy for several seasons until kerosene was tried, and we have had good crops ever since. Half a pint of kerosene is well mixed with a pailful of some dry material, preferably woodashes, but sand, sawdust, or even dry soil will do fairly well, and after the plants are well up and the trouble is at hand a sprinkling of this mixture along the rows about twice a week during the time the fly does its work will be found a sure preventive of the trouble. With us this is from the beginning of April to the end of May; after this there is little danger, as the onions are of a good size and not so liable to injury. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

16 May 1894
Flower-garden Notes
In this most delightful season of the year herbaceous plants of all kinds are starting into growth, many of them with surprising vigor, and most of the hardy bulbous plants are in bloom. The Narcissus season is about past; only the later forms of the Poet's Narcissus are to follow, and these will not be over until after Decoration Day, at which time they are always highly useful. It is a matter of regret that the many new forms of Spanish Daffodils are so uncertain in their behavior. With us they promised well the first year, as the flowers were strong and of the most varied forms of any section, but the next season they did not do so well, and this year very few have put in an appearance. The conclusion that I have reached is that they are not to be depended on for our northern latitude, and intending cultivators should be cautious about planting them in any section until they have been fully tested. In sharp contrast to these Spanish kinds, the older and well-known sorts have been better and stronger than ever, and are among our choicest spring-flowering bulbs, as well as the most satisfactory. This is especially true of Countess of Annesley, all the bicolors, not omitting M. Foster, the latest of all in this section and as good as Emperor or Horsfieldii. The Incomparabilis varieties always do well, and so do the Leedsi and Burbidgei, for each have half the blood of N. Incomparabilis in their parentage.
Some very beautiful species of Tulip are now in bloom. Tulipa Greigi has been undisturbed for three years, and is as good as when first planted. It should be more often seen in the border, for it is one of the most ornamental of spring flowers. There came among the bulbs of T. Greigi a single bulb that has similarly spotted foliage and a bright yellow large flower, the outer petals of which are marked with crimson. This is unknown to me by name; it might be a yellow variety of the latter, but it is more robust, and I do not know of a yellow one being in commerce.
The Mertensia Virginica has been a pretty sight again this spring, and it seeds freely in the borders here. Young plants are coming up about the old plants and will soon have to be taken out, they are so plentiful. It is not often that this plant seeds in cultivation, or at least the plants do not usually come up spontaneously, but this may be accounted for in the fact that the borders are never forked over, all weeds being pulled by hand as the best way to avoid damage to the plants. This practice encourages the generation of self-sown seeds of all border-plants, and makes it easy to fill up gaps.
Paeonia tenuifolia is now in full beauty, and it is one of our best early spring flowers. Both the double and single varieties are good. They are rather scarce, and more expensive than the older herbaceous Paeonies, but are well worth having, as they soon form nice clumps and flower freely. The tree Paeonies will shortly follow, and these in turn will be followed by the herbaceous kinds. This is a well-marked period, for as soon as the herbaceous Paeonies open their flowers the rose-bugs will be here, and there will not be more than a day or two of difference either way. If these pests would but stay away a week or so, the Paeonies would have a chance to show their full beauty, but we know no way to prevent their coming.
Aside from the Funkias, there are very few good borderplants with variegated leaves that are hardy, or will keep their color all the season. An old plant, Centaurea nigra variegata, not often seen, would make a good edging to a border where such plants are desired. It is easily divided, and keeps its color throughout the season. Its habit is dense or tufted, the leaves being margined with bright yellow. If the flowers are kept cut off it improves the leaf-growth, and the blossoms are the least desirable feature, and easily spared.
Scabiosa Caucasica is a valued border-plant on account of its pretty lavender-colored flowers, a color rare in hardy plants. The plant is also rare in borders, due, I believe, to its dying out for some unknown reason. It has been suggested that S. Caucasica is a biennial, but it is a true perennial. It seeds freely, and a quantity of young seedlings generally spring up that will flower the same season if carefully transplanted in the spring. We grow our plants in a plot by themselves, as they are much used for cutting; at this time a quantity of seedlings are coming up.
Many hardy plants are of a very weedy nature, and insist on a great deal more space than was intended for them in the beginning. Many we could not well do without, so they must be forked out now when we can best determine a good place for them. The Achilleas, Monarda didyma, Spiraea lobata, Helianthus rigidus, Boltonias, Anemone Pennsylvanica and many others will suggest themselves as being offenders in this way. These need annual thinning out to keep them from appropriating the whole border. So much for permanent border plants; but we must now prepare for those of annual duration, for these are indispensable. Asters, Stocks, Zinnias, Gladioli, Mignonette and other old favorites will have to be dotted in to take the place of those that flower early and then die down. It is never safe to begin setting these out before the end of May in this section, but they should now be in readiness for planting then. Annuals should be carefully hardened off in cold frames. Cannas, Geraniums and all plants of this description pay well for a careful hardening off also, for if taken out of the greenhouse and put in the open sun they are apt to scorch and look rusty for a week or two after being set out. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

30 May 1894
Sobralia macrantha
This is one of the oldest inhabitants of Orchid-houses, having been introduced to cultivation fifty years ago. It has been neglected in recent years, partly on account of shy flowering and partly in favor of other Orchids which take up less space in the greenhouse. Its reputation for shy flowering has not been altogether undeserved, but now that the wants of Sobralias are better understood as more species are introduced, there is no reason why they should not, with one exception, flower with as much regularity as a Cypripedium. We have a plant now bearing sixty-one flowering stems, and all of these are showing flowers. Last vear we had but one flowering growth on the same plant, and the reason is worth recording. Two years ago this Sobralia was wintered in thie warmest house, and did not flower, but kept on growing because it had no resting-period. Last winter the plant was placed in a cool house where Cinerarias and Primulas were grown, and the result is every stem is now flowering. The plant makes a fine appearance, and the flowers areas large as those of a Cattleya and very fragrant. The color is rich crimson-purple. Since the introduction of the lovely white-flowered Sobralias, there has been a decided interest taken in the genus. They are not so tall-growing as the older varieties, especially S. Cattleya, a species that has never been known to flower in cultivation, though it is said to be the king of the genus and of very robust habit. The Sobralias are natives of Mexico, Guatemala and various parts of South America, extending as far south as Peru. They require pot-culture, as they are terrestrial Orchids with thick, fleshy roots that reach out a considerable distance in the potting-material, if supplied with a suitable compost. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

6 June 1894
Seasonable Garden Flowers
One of the earliest and best of the composite family to flower in the early summer is Helenium Hoopesii, a true perennial, a native of the western states from Montana to New Mexico. It is the best garden-plant of the genus, H. Bolanderi ranking next, and after it H. autumnale, a somewhat common species here in the eastern states, and a useful autumn-flowering plant.
Helenium Hoopesii is now coming into bloom, and makes a fine show, besides being a very useful plant for cutting and for house-decoration at this season. Seeds are freely produced in favorable seasons, and the plant is also readily propagated by division of the strong root-stock. The only drawback to its cultivation is the frequent attacks of white aphis on the roots. If, as often happens, the plant looks unhappy, and an examination of the roots reveals the fact that insects are doing the mischief, it should be transplanted into fresh soil after the roots have been.washed in an insecticide.
Cypripedium pubescens is in bloom again on the shady side of the Rhododendron-bed, where it has flowered for the past four years. It is doing better this year than ever before, in larger clumps, showing that it will increase in cultivation under proper conditions. C. spectabile is thrifty, also, in a similar situation. In a rich vegetable-mold, with shade and moisture, these beautiful hardy Orchids can be successfully grown in our gardens.
In the Rhododendron-bed the Lilies are also coming up strong. Every kind has appeared, even the newly planted Lilium giganteum and L. cordifolitim; though these will not flower this year, it is gratifying to know that they have taken kindly to their new conditions. L. auratum platyphyllum was sent to me as a variety superior to the old L. auratum and as a Lily that would increase year after year in the garden without any special care; all of this is true and worth making known, for most of us have had vexatious experiences with L. auratum. Bulbs of L. auratum are so cheap that it consoles one somewhat for the loss of them after the first flowering, but it is still unexplained'why they cannot be grown here during successive seasons as they are in Japan, and as most other kinds of Lilies are grown in this country. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

20 June 1894
The Herbaceous Borders
The recent cool, showery weather has been most favorable to herbaceous plants, and I do not remember ever to have seen the borders look better than they do now, and there is abundant promise of growth and beauty during the next few weeks. The perennial Lupins have been, and still are, very showy. The variety grown here is L. polyphyllus, in various colors, from pure white through the different shades of lilac to deep purple. These are all seedlings from what was supposed to be seed of L. polyphyllus albus, but if the different colors are grown together, no one color can be depended upon to come true from seed. Lupins like rich soil, and do not bear transplanting when once established, and it is advisable to sow seed over again rather than transplant old plants. It has been told me that the common L. perennis, so plentiful here in a wild state, cannot be taken up and be made to live in a garden; this seems to be only half the truth, and that it is much easier to raise seedlings to secure the same results appears to be the other half.
The herbaceous Paeonies are just opening their first flowers, and, true to their past record, the rose-bugs arrived here the same day. It is a regret that we cannot enjoy these sumimer flowers more, and the question suggests itself, why are not the Tree or Mountain Paeonies more often seen? These have been fine for nearly three weeks, and the flowers are as handsome as the later herbaceous kinds, though, perhaps, of a more limited range of color, but they are much more rarely seen in gardens than the universally grown herbaceous kinds. There once was a suspicion that the Tree Paeonies lacked hardiness, but here, in one of the coldest parts of the eastern states, they thrive without any protection. It is true that these plants are not easy to obtain from dealers, but should the demand increase the supply will probably be equal to it,-as houses importing Japanese plants offer as many as fifty distinct varieties, and even propose to send colored plates of all these kinds for inspection and selection. Among such a large number of kinds there should be a good assortment of colors to relieve the monotony of the various shades of pink and rose usually offered.
Eremurus robustus, received last fall from Holland; has now a fine spike of bloom on the plant, and as the flowers open in succession, it will last several weeks. The pretty pale pink blossoms on a cylindrical spike about five feet high are really ornamental, and as the seeds are produced freely in this cli mate, there is no reason why the plants may not soon be seen in many gardens. E. Himalayicus was also planted, but this year it has made two crowns, and in consequence has not flowered; but another year it will be a fit companion plant to E. robustus. No special care appears to be needed in their cultivation. The thick fleshy roots are produced in a whorl from the crown, and these need to be carefully placed in the soil. No covering was given as a protection to our plants, though this was due to an accident, since heavy snow fell before the work was done.
Lindelofia spectabilis is one of the best blue-flowered perennials in bloom now, and it has been good for some time past. This is one of the introductions of Herr Max Leichtlin, from whom we received the seeds. It is a near relative of the Anchusa, Mertensia and Borage. South Lancaster MA, O. Orpet.

27 June 1894
The Hardy Flower Garden
The Lupins are about past, and the only remaining relative is Thermopsis Caroliniana; this would pass for a yellow Lupin to a casual observer when in bloom, but the resemblance ends with the flowers, the foliage beihg entirely distinct. Gray tells us that the name Thermopsis is taken from Greek words meaning resemblance to a Lupin, and the species under note is a native of the mountains of North Carolina. To the gardener the plant is of interest for its bright yellow blossoms and tall habit, for when fairly established it grows tall enough to be put at the back of the widest border, and, like all plants of the family Leguminoseae, should never be disturbed when once planted. It is preferable to start with a small plant or seed rather than to plant larger roots that resent disturbance.
We have had a plant under the name of Baptisia exaltata in the garden for several years, and it is quite the best of all the Baptisias. It is a tall-growing kind, as tall again as the better known B. australis, with flowers proportionately larger and of a brighter blue. It is a fine garden-plant. The seed came originally from Kew, and -B. exaltata appears to be well known in England, but, though the genus is North American, I fail to find any reference to it in any of the text-books at hand. It may be of garden origin, but those having access to Sweet's British Flower Garden can possibly ascertain more about the plant, as it is figured in that work.
Thalictrum Fendleri is the showiest of all the Meadow Rues when in bloom, though the foliage is not so finely cut as some of the others. It is very rare in cultivation, and is a native of the Rocky Mountains. In habit it is not so tall as the common Meadow Rue of the eastern states. It seldom exceeds two feet in height, and is remarkable for the beautiful white flowers that are profuse in their season. Our plant has formed a nice clump now, and is a pretty object every summer at this time. T. Fendleri is one of the choicest border-plants; and it is a pity that it is not more often seen.
The Centaureas have a rather bad reputation as border plants, and few are really good, especially those of perennial habit. C. Ruthenica is a notable exception, being elegant in all its ways. Our plants were obtained from seed supplied by Haage & Schmidt, of Erfurt, but the plants produce seed sparingly each year now that they have begun to bloom freely. C. Ruthenica is one of the most beautiful hardy-foliage plants; the leaves resemble those of the Cocos Weddeliana, being finely cut and of a deep green color. The flowers are pale yellow in color and last some time in blossom. Our plants are seldom out of flower during the next two months from this time. It is one of the uncommon hardy plants that are well worth having; judging from the name it is a native of Russia.
Salvia argentea is not usually regarded as a hardy perennial plant. It is often treated as an annual for the beauty of the foliage, which is covered with a silky down; under this treatment half the beauty of the plant is not seen, for it is the finest hardy Salvia of all when in bloom, and when not flowering it is worth having for its foliage alone, as already stated. We have had it in the garden for three years and it has taken care of itself in common with the other plants. It was originally planted for the one season's effect, but it has lived through each succeeding winter, bloomed regularly, and is now beautiful. The flowers are pure white on large branched panicles. It is much superior as a garden flower to S. pratensis, or even the so-called hardy native species S. Pitcheri and S. farinacea, all of which are tender in cold seasons. South Lancaster MA, E.O. Orpet.

18 July 1894
Garden Strawberries
More trouble is often taken in planting the Strawberry bed for home consumption than is really needed. It has been our experience that a bed is not profitable after it has borne fruit two years, and therefore it is hoed over at this season, and late Cabbage and Cauliflower are put in the place after the soil is well manured and dug. At the same time the plot from which crops of early Beets, Beans, Turnips and Lettuce have been taken is prepared for the annual planting of a new bed of Strawberries, and in this way no ground is left idle at any period during the summer, and the greater portion of it produces two crops. As soon as the crop of fruit is gathered, the best runners are all taken and layered in pots plunged in the soil between the rows, and in about a month these are ready to be taken and set out in the new bed, where they are kept watered for a few days and well hoed through the autumn months, all runners being picked off as they appear. These young plants make strong crowns in the three months of growing weather, and never fail to give us the following summer a full crop of large-sized fruit - larger, indeed, than we can get from the bed that is two years old, but not in such quantity. It is the old bed, therefore, which furnishes the fruit for preserving, while the young one supplies the table.
Where the Strawberry-weevil is troublesome it is a wise precaution to set the plants three in a hill, in a triangle, about a foot apart, but since adopting the plan of limiting a bed to two crops we have had little difficulty from this pest, and we set the rows straight. Some twenty-two kinds have been tried here in four years, and we have settled down to three kinds that are all to be relied upon here to be of good flavor and sure crop-Michel's Early for the first, Parker Earle for the main crop, and Gandy to produce fine dessert fruit. Some day we hope to try the Marshall; it is a wonderful Strawberry, but times must be better, or the Marshall Strawberry cheaper, before it can be planted to any extent. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

25 July 1894
Perennial Sweet Peas
Now that the annual varieties of flowering Peas are so popular as garden-flowers, the thought occurs that those of perennial duration are also among the best of garden- quickly ruined by the attacks of the green aphis. After the plants that are easy of growth, and they do not require half the care and attention that is necessary to get the best results from the annual sorts. All of these hardy kinds can readily be raised from seeds, but where a special variety is wanted, or perpetuated, it is best to rely on cuttings taken in fall after the flowering period is past, or early in spring from cuttings taken from old plants stored in the greenhouse for that purpose. An old root will furnish a large quantity of good cuttings, and ninety per cent of these will root and flower the same year if planted in the open ground. Peas, in common with all others of the Pulse family, require a good soil, one, above all, that is moist in summer, or that can easily be watered in such dry weather as we are suffering from now.
The most useful species, so far as we have found, is Lathyrus latifolius; it is also the most often seen in gardens along with its white variety called Albus. The latter is a valuable garden-flower, specially useful for florists and others who require white flowers in quantity in summer, as there are frequently five and six flowers to each stem, and these last well when cut. There is a variety of L. latifolius called Splendens which may be regarded as the best type, but one that cannot be depended upon to come true from seed. In this respect it resembles the white form, so that it is best to obtain plants instead of seeds of these two kinds. It is rather unfortunate that there should be a mere variety called Splendens when there is such a fine species of the same name.
It has more than once occurred that when trying to obtain the latter the other has been sent instead, and the error was not discovered until after considerable time had passed. I am in serious doubt whether this Californian L. splendens is really hardy in the east, for it never seems to have survived the winter here.
There is another good species called Lathyrus grandiflorus or biflorus. It is the largest of all in size of individual flowers, but it rarely happens that there are more than two flowers on a stem. It is quite hardy, a good perennial, and should be grown where the others are appreciated.
Lathyrus sylvestris is also a perennial plant, but much inferior to all the others named. In habit it resembles L. latifolius, but the flowers are smaller and paler in color. Of L. tuberosus, we have had a good opinion for several years. It is the smallest grower of all, the vines being very slender, and produced from a tuberous root not unlike a small potato. It also has the peculiarity of coming and going as it pleases; sometimes it is in one place, and then in another, as it spreads from the roots, but not to such an extent as to make it objectionable, for the flowers are very pretty and abundant, though small. It is a plant that will take care of itself in a semi-wild situation, and be sure to flower every year. It never grows more than two feet high, though it requires support, as do all the others, and this is best afforded by planting near a fence or even against a building, where the shoots may be trained upon wires. If grown in borders the plants must have a few Pea-stakes neatly set for their support; but a semi-wild garden suits them, where they may ramble at will. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

5 September 1894
Kniphofias
Some two years ago we were favored with two packets of Herr Max Leichtlin's own hybridized seeds of these Torch Lilies, and though some flowered last year, the majority are in bloom for the first time this season. We have heard a good deal lately of the advances recently made by this noted raiser of choice hardy plants in the varieties of Kniphofia (Tritoma), and those now in bloom here go far toward illustrating the fact that the old introduced species are surpassed in vigor and beauty by these garden hybrids. There is a species called Kniphofia Leichtlinii, which comes from Abyssinia, and is very different from all other kinds, being deciduous, of dwarf habit, the tube of the flower shorter than usual, and the stamens and anthers being exserted, so as to give the spike an appearance quite distinct from all others. Another peculiarity is that the blossoms commence to expand from the top of the spike down, reversing the order of all other species that I have seen, and it is an advantage, as the spike is fully developed before the flowers begin to open. In the hybrids mentioned a large number are the result of crossing K. Leichtlinii with the older and more robust growers, and we have a distinct gain in every way in larger spikes of bloom and in varied colors. They still retain the deciduous habit, and this enables us to lift and store them in a very small space in the cellar in winter, there being no foliage to keep green. The hybrids with this parentage are easily discerned in fall, for after the first frost the leaves all turn yellow and mature at once, so that the plants can soon be lifted and stored, for in this section none of the family is hardy enough to stand the winter.
The parentage of the other seedlings is difficult to trace, but there are very few poor ones among them all, and some are of great beauty; one especially, now in bloom, has a flowerspike over a foot long, with four side branches, the flowers being of a clear bright yellow, with no red shading, while others are of the brightest possible vermilion-red.
Kniphofias have a distinct place in the flower-borders that they are well qualified to fill. At this period there are few plants in bloom among true herbaceous or hardy plants, the month of August being the poorest of the summer months, and this is when the Torch Lilies begin to come into bloom, and they last until frost has killed all outdoor bloom. In very favorable years we can harvest seeds, but more often they do not mature satisfactorily, but seeds can easily be purchased, and these germinate readily in the greenhouse in spring; the older plants may easily be divided when it is desirable to increase any particular variety, for we have found that seed cannot be relied upon to come true if saved from plants among a mixed collection, the flowers being a great attraction to insects, and in this way they become crossed. South Lancaster MA, E.O. Orpet.

19 September 1894
Seasonable Work
We are passing through a period of unparalleled drought in this section and it has been a difficult matter to keep plants alive. When rain comes it will probably be abundant, but the planting season will be a short one this fall, and all preparations should be made for it, so that no delays may occur after the needed rainfall. It is useless to lift plants or trees when the soil is so dry that it will not stay on the roots, and it is likewise useless to plant in dry soil, even if it is watered after planting, for it is difficult to soak a dry, parched soil, especially after it has been disturbed. A year ago we transplanted a large number of evergreens at this season, with such satisfactory results that we shall hereafter move any of the hardy trees and shrubs, especially the Conifers, in autumn. Magnolias are best moved in spring, as are also Rhododendrons, though we are preparing the beds for these now that there may be no delay in spring when the plants arrive. For the Rhododendrons we are using soil from a piece of intervale land that was formerly submerged; it is of a black peaty nature and was laid up some years ago when drains were cut through, and is, therefore, well sweetened by exposure to the weather. With the addition of leaf-soil and the natural loam this will make a good soil for the finer-rooting shrubs, such as Rhododendrons and Kalmias. All the Conifers like a strong soil, with plenty of manure added; the latter heightens the color and induces vigorous growth as nothing else will, provided there is sufficient moisture in the natural soil.
The planting of herbaceous plants in autumn is equally important, and the soil should be prepared for them at once. As these are to remain permanently they need liberal treatment to insure good results for a long time to come. If the location is a poor one, and the natural soil lacking in depth or moisture, it is well to prepare the place by digging double the usual depth and mixing in, as the work proceeds, plenty of manure and good soil. Perhaps readers may tire of this constant insistence upon the necessity of furnishing the roots of plants with abundant food in such a form and under such conditions that it is readily available for their use, but this is the only way to get any comfort out of a garden. No matter how rare or costly or beautiful a plant is, its first charm is that of vigorous health, and when starved and stunted it can never be anything other than an object of commiseration. A few plants well fed and well cared for will prove far more satisfactory in the end than ten times as many carelessly handled. Our greatest trouble here is from the encroaching roots of large Elms which grow near the borders. Sometimes we have to lift all the plants in the large borders and cut off the Elm feeders which spread throughout the bed. This has to be done at least every two years to be of any service, and the borderplants have only time to get established before it is necessary to lift them again. A rule to be rigidly remembered is, never to plant a border of flowering plants near Elm-trees, or, indeed, any other large trees, for there is sure to be injury to the plants sooner or later.
Bulbs may be planted now, and Lilies especially should be put into the ground at once, so that the set of roots made in fall may become well established. Lilies are never inactive, but soon after flowering is the most suitable time for transplanting, since directly after the flowers fade a new set of roots is sent out from the base of the bulbs, and on these depends the strong growth that is to produce flowers the next year. If planting is delayed until spring the bulbs have a double task to perform - that of getting established and of maturing the flowers; bad results are more likely to be seen the second year after planting than the first. American-grown bulbs are preferable to those grown in Holland, where the growers lift the Lilies and subject them to a system of drying before shipping. The effect of this treatment is seen in the pink tint the bulbs usually have on arrival here, and with every particle of the roots cut off many bulbs die before getting established. The Japanese know their business better, and encase each bulb in a clay covering; they are then closely packed with dry soil sifted in between. Japanese bulbs come here in fine order, often with a mass of live roots ready to start into growth as soon as they are planted, and losses are thus reduced to a minimum.
Those who intend to plant permanent beds of Tulips should now prepare places for them. The new Darwin Tulips are a decided acquisition to the garden, perfectly hardy, of rich coloring, having stout stems for cutting, and they will flower year after year. The Parrot varieties are also admirable in the border, but are not so good for cutting, owing to their weak stems; the colors are brilliant, with unique and fantastic shapes. Our Parrot Tulips have flowered for three years in the same bed without disturbance, and promise to do equally well next season. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

10 October 1894
Orchid Notes
Epidendrum Godseffianum
This is the newest addition to the genus Epidendrum which has been brought into cultivation, and it is named in honor of the manager of the great establishment at St. Albans, from which so many fine things have been distributed. The plant came in with large importations of Cattleya labiata, and from this it is safe to assume that the treatment adapted to this Cattleya should also suit the Epidendrum, and so it has proved with us here. Epidendrums are the oldest of known Epiphytes, and at the beginning all such were called Epidendrums by Linnaeus, but, as material came in, it soon became evident that a division was necessary, for even Dendrobiums were included, until at least nine species were known to science at the time the name was given by Swartz, himself a pupil of Linnaeus. Epidendrums, as a class, are not much in favor with cultivators, there being but few that are showy enough to meet the popular demand at the present time, and it is to be feared that E. Godseffianum will not be much sought after, unless the fashion changes. The flowers, about an inch in diameter, are produced sparingly on long branching stems, and all their parts are of a pale olive green, except the lip, which is white, faintly lined with purple. This Epidendrum is a very free grower when placed on blocks, with a little moss to hold the moisture about the roots. It is not easy to place the plants in pots as the bulbs have a habit of ascending as they grow each year one above another, evidently on trees in their native country, Brazil.
Laelia praestans
Last fall we received a number of small pieces, newly imported, of this dwarf-growing Laelia, and as they seemed to possess but little vigor they were all pegged on to a piece of Fern-root, hung up in the cool house and left to take their chance. All that was done was to spray them occasionally with the hose; they started at once, remaining in the cool house until a little heat was necessary to complete growth in the middle of winter, when they were removed to the Cattleya house until spring. Then a new growth commenced, and this is now producing a number of flowers, many of the bulbs having two-flowered scapes, and others one each. They are still in the cool house, but will be removed after flowering, to complete their growth and ripen. Laelia praestans belongs to the L. pumila section, of which it and L. Dayana are regarded as being mere varieties. L. Dayana flowers a few weeks sooner than L. proestans, the flowers are smaller, the lip is richer in color and they both thrive under the same treatment, that is, a cool house in summer and a little more warmth in winter. It is a pity that L. praestans is not more common in collections; it has always been rare in a cultivated state, but is, perhaps, more often seen in this country than in Europe. The flowers are very large in comparison to the size of the plant itself, the leaf and bulb do not exceed four inches in length, while the flowers are over three inches across, round in outline, owing to the breadth of the bright rose-colored sepals, while the lip is a rich purple in front. It is worthy of remark that the plants have thriven on the block of Fern-root far better than if they had been put in small pans or pots, where, in hot weather, the trouble of keeping them watered is considerable. The roots have penetrated a mass six inches in thickness, and are fast appearing all over the block.
Dendrobium Phalaenopsis Schroederianum
There is little danger of noting too often or commending too highly this plant, with its free growth and flowers of varied and beautiful coloring, ranging from rich dark purple to the most delicate tint of pink, and produced on long and gracefully arching sprays. We now have more than fifty plants justcoming into bloom, and the growth made this past season is of the kind to make glad the heart of the cultivator, for it is a great deal stronger this season than last. Old bulbs that flowered several years ago are now pushing flower-spikes again, even though they have traveled more than half round the world. It is quite a common occurrence for young plants to be produced from the upper parts of the old bulbs, and these can be taken off when matured, and if potted in small pots or pans and suspended in a warm house they soon make good flowering plants. We have many that were taken off last spring, and all are now about to bloom; for this reason it is safe to say that this Dendrobium will never be lost to cultivation. The smallest-sized pans are the best to grow the plants in, as we have found that if the material becomes the least sour or overwatered the young growths soon rot off in dull weather in summer. It is risky to water them overhead in the growing season for this same reason, except in the morning of a very hot day, when quick evaporation is assured. D. Phalaenopsis is essentially a warm-house plant, and those who do not have a house that can be kept at a minimum of sixty degrees in winter had better not try many, or loss may occur. It is best to suspend the plants to the roof where the air is more buoyant, and the snails are then easily kept away from the roots; wood lice should also be looked after in the flowering season, as we find that they sometimes eat the blossoms themselves. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

24 October 1894
Violets
These plants should all have been housed and well established by this time, and possibly flowering freely for the past month, as ours have been. One of the best features of the Lady Hume Campbell Violet is that it may be brought to good condition by the middle of September every year. Violet plants are now making a quantity of runners, and it is the custom to pick them off and throw them away, depending on those produced in the spring for the propagation of stock for next year. A better way, and one that we have practiced successfully for some years, is to save all of the last crop of runners made in the fall and to put them in flats, in a mixture of equal parts of sand and leaf-mold. The flats should be placed in a shady cold frame, where they soon take root, and where they may remain until next May - that is, until planting out time. Several advantages result from this plan; the Violet plants that have been kept and forced to produce to their utmost either in frames or houses are weakened thereby, and are unfit for propagation, and may be thrown away. The stock we have in frames is never subjected to fire-heat, and the plants are sometimes frozen for several weeks at a time, but this does not seem to hurt them if they are not thawed out until the weather has moderated. Cold-frame space is also of less value than that of a heated house, where all spring propagation must of necessity be carried on, and this would be quite an item in a large establishment of a commercial grower, where it is necessary to handle the young stock several times. But the principal point in favor of this plan is that the young stock is strong, sturdy and not predisposed to disease, and, as a matter of fact, we have never had any disease on plants treated in this way. I am speaking now of the newer Lady Campbell; it has long been impossible to grow any of the Marie Louise in this locality, but our plants this year are a picture of health and better than ever before. This seems to be largely due to the variety used and to fall propagation, but getting them into their winter quarters by the last of August is important. Our heavy night dews about that time favors the spread of the dreaded spot, for which there is as yet no cure, if the attack is a bad one. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

14 November 1894
Plants under Glass
The inactivity among greenhouse plants, which is very plainly seen during the dull period which follows the Chrysanthemum season and continues until the new year, ought to be encouraged by every cultivator. Less moisture is needed in the houses then than at any other time, and temperatures must be kept down to the winter level, especially at night. It is not only a waste of fuel, but a waste of the energy of the plants, to excite them into growth. When such premature movement occurs plants will start late in the spring instead of making a vigorous growth after the resting season. Many plants in the warmer houses are evergreen, and show no appearance of being at rest even in the depth of winter, but they are, nevertheless, inactive, and they must be treated accordingly, and not urged into growth.
Climbing plants of all kinds are now resting, and for the most part may be cut back, so as to let in all the light on the other plants, for while shade is desirable in summer, it is detrimental to the last degree in winter. Before cutting plants back it is well to keep them dry for a week or two, when there will be less bleeding or loss of sap, and the cuts will heal over more quickly. Dipladenias, Allamandas, Bougainvilleas, and all plants that flower from the wood made the same season, may be cut back hard, so as to encourage a strong start next year, from as near the base as possible, but Stephanotis, Inga pulcherrima, tender Jasmines, climbing Roses, and plants that flower on the growth made the preceding season, must have only the weak shoots thinned out, so as to give the stronger shoots a chance to ripen and bloom well next year.
The hybrid Amaryllis, or Hippeastrums, as they are now called, are now without foliage, and should be kept dry for about three months, or until they begin to grow again. Most of the roots are lost each season during rest, but if a strong growth has been made in summer the flower-buds will be matured in the bulb and ready to develop as soon as the plants are repotted and the roots are formed. There is a great future for these splendid flowering bulbs when they are better known. Very little heat is required to grow them if they are started as late in the spring as possible and put into frames to mature after flowering time in summer.
Achimenes have become indispensable to us, and contribute no small part to the summer display. There is sometimes difficulty in wintering the bulbs. We shake them out of the soil they are grown in and place them in dry sand in a warm part of the potting-shed, and have had no trouble with them. Care must be taken that they do not start to grow prematurely in spring before they are placed in soil, or the young shoots will get a severe check at starting-time. All the ornamental-leaved Caladiums should be treated in the same way as soon as the leaves dry off, for if they are left in the pots they grew in during the summer they are very liable to decay at the base of the bulbs; and if the soil becomes damp where they are stored in winter, decay also follows. It is, besides, a great saving of storage-room if bulbs are shaken out in this way, and this is an important consideration in many instances. If there is decay in any of the bulbs the diseased part must be cut way and the sound parts washed, dried and a handful of powdered charcoal placed under the bulb when it is put into sand.
Gloxinias and Begonias are best wintered in the pots in which they grew in summer, if room can be found to store them, but, failing this, they may be placed in sand in flats. A temperature of fifty degrees will be found a safe minimum, or ten degrees lower than Caladiums can safely endure, as these are most sensitive to cold both when growing and at rest. So many Chrysanthemums are now considered indispensable even to private gardens that it has become a problem how to store the stock-plants after they have bloomed, so as to get strong cuttings in spring. Those wintered in the greenhouse are apt to become weak and drawn. For several years after cutting down the plants we have placed the roots in cold frames, arranged together, each sort being carefully labeled. They are covered with mats in cold weather; the roots are sometimes frozen for weeks at a time, but this never hurts them, and a strong start is obtained in spring. We sometimes have to top the plants and take the second crop of cuttings in May for large blooms grown on a single stem.
Japan Anemones and Lilies that are grown in pots for decorative purposes should now be placed in a cellar for winter. If a little frost reaches them it is all the better for these plants, as it will prevent a too early start in spring, and when the weather is warm enough in spring they can be placed directly out-of-doors. The bushes of Lavender, Tritomas and plants of doubtful hardiness are heeled in sand in the same cellar, but Hydrangeas must be placed where no frost will reach them, or the flower-buds are liable to be killed. Canterbury-bells, Hollyhocks, Pansies, Primroses and Foxgloves, all of which are doubtfully hardy here, must be stored in a cold frame, or, at least, part of them, so that there may be no chance of failure. If the Japan Lilies have not already been repotted this fall, it is high time they were seen to, as they root freely in fall after the old flower-stems have died down, and will continue to make roots all winter if potted now. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

28 November 1894
Lily-of-the-valley for Outdoor Planting
A well-grown lot of Lily-of-the-valley is seldom seen out-of-doors, and when these plants have any place at all in the garden they are usually relegated to some out-of-the way corner, where the roots of shrubs and trees appropriate the nutrition they need, so that there is only a meagre exhibit of flowers in May, when there ought to be an abundance of strong spikes. For some reason there seems to be a prevalent idea that imported German forcing-crowns are not hardy in the open border in this section of the eastern states. This mistaken notion is due to the fact that they are generally used in greenhouses, but no more suitable crowns could be obtained for outdoor planting than these specially prepared German crowns if they can be had early enough in the fall to be planted in the beds prepared for them. The situation of the bed is, perhaps, the most important point for insuring success; fully exposed, hot, dry situations are to be avoided, or failure is sure to follow. The beds should have a position where they are shaded through the heat of the day by overhanging trees or a building, or even a fence is sufficient to break the force of the midday sun in the heat of midsummer. There are few gardens that do not afford such positions, and the difficulty often is to know what to plant in just such places where grass refuses to grow, and many of the shade-loving plants become weedy and possibly difficult to eradicate when once established. If suited as to soil and situation the crowns need to be lifted every third year, and to be replanted over a larger space; otherwise the crowns do not develop fully, and the flowers are small. If it is not desirable to cover more than the original space the crowns can be used for forcing in winter, and will be found to give good results. The roots can be preserved without mutilation, and mats of them can be used which will give a better spike of bloom and more foliage than is usually obtained from newly imported crowns. The situation being decided upon, the soil should be dug out to a depth of one foot, and plenty of manure mixed with it, or if it is poor a better soil should be substituted. The bed should be filled in to the depth of six inches, and the crowns set about six inches apart each way, the roots being carefully laid out, since they do not penetrate deeply, but spread. After filling in the rest of the soil it is well to give a top-dressing of manure to protect the newly made beds from severe frost. The older beds we cover annually with a good coat of finely chopped manure as a fertilizer for the coming year. This is allowed to remain on the bed, and it is surprising to see the vigor of the foliage that pushes up through it in the spring, the blades broader than the palm of one's hand, with spikes of bloom in proportion, many with more than twelve bells to the spike. The chief danger to guard against is drought in summer; with moisture the Lily-of-the-valley will thrive in sand if well enriched. We are hearing a good deal now about the new Russian form of Lily-of-the-valley, and this strain is being tried on a large scale this year for forcing under glass. Whether it is a distinct form or whether it is obtained by extra cultivation is at present uncertain, but the introducers claim that these crowns are grown at the foot of the Hartz Mountains, and are altogether superior to the general stock in cultivation. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

28 November 1894
Dendrobium Phalacnopsis
Mr. Watson's note in GARDEN AND FOREST for October 3ist, as to the home of this superb Orchid, is interesting, more especially since we were treated to such a fanciful story concerning its discovery in New Guinea. But is it not possible that the plant has been found by different collectors, both in that country and Timor Laut? Messrs. Veitch say distinctly enough in their Manual that the plant is indigenous to both islands, and, moreover, the flora of New Guinea is strongly influenced by that of the Indian Archipelago, of which Timor Laut is part. To the cultivator, however, this is not of much consequence, as the requirements of Dendrobium Phlalaenopsis are now pretty well understood, and are easily ministered to in modern greenhouses, as it is the easiest to cultivate of all the Australian group to which it belongs. Long sprays have been in bloom here more than three weeks, and the first flowers that opened are not fading yet, though some of the spikes carry as many as twenty of them. The secret of its keeping qualities are, however, due to the fact that it has been kept in the warm house wherein it grew, and that has kept moisture off the flowers. We have found that if the plant, while in bloom, is removed to a cooler house the flowers soon decay, and the same result happens if they are dampened. The flowers are most useful for boutonnieres, and a spray laid on Asparagus tenuissimus makes a rarely delicate combination. Asparagus plumosus is far too rigid to blend well with the blossoms. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

19 December 1894
Greenhouse Work
We are now passing through the dullest part of the whole year, at least plants seem to improve less between the time of Chrysanthemums and the new year than at any other period. But this will soon be changed, for once in the new year the days soon lengthen, the sun gains power and work comes on apace. No work that can be done at this time should be neglected, for any headway made now is all clear gain when the busy season comes. All pots that have been used should be washed and stored away, each size separate. This seems hardly worth the telling, but we so often see a heap of dirty pots piled away, all sizes together, and most likely a fourth of them cracked or broken when they are wanted. We also make a practice at this season to get from the woods straight twigs for flower-stakes next summer. Cut and pointed at this time these are more durable than they would be if cut with the sap in them. After all, there is no plant-stake so inconspicuous as a young sapling, and the smallest twigs should be saved for staking Achimenes and other slender-growing plants. Such stakes as these are not of much value after one season's use and may be thrown away.
All bulbs that are stored away for the winter should be examined now. Begonias, Gloxinias and Amaryllis do not like a temperature lower than fifty degrees. We have had serious losses some years from too low a temperature, and on the other hand a relatively high temperature is harmful, because a proper season of rest is not allowed. Caladiums need a hot, dry place, and do well stored in a warm boiler cellar; if shaken out of the pots and put in dry sand, space is economized, and the pots can, meanwhile, be cleaned. Achimenes, too, can be treated in this way, but should not be kept so warm.
It seems early to begin propagating, but we always get in a few Carnation cuttings in December for early fall flowers. These are allowed to come in in the early part of October, or as soon as the outdoor supply of flowers is cut off by frost, the indoor Carnations not flowering until after the Chrysanthemums are past. Frame-grown Carnations are very useful in early autumn, but, to have them good, early propagation is desirable. We like to get in the main stock of plants for next winter bloom as near to the tenth of January as possible. The cuttings root readily then; they can be well hardened off after being rooted in preparation for transferring to the frames.
Small Ferns in most private gardens are a great help in all sorts of decorative work, but there is always considerable trouble experienced first in getting them, and afterward in keeping them small enough for dinner-table work. Last year we sowed a flat with spores of Adiantum cuneatum, and raised over a thousand plants. The spores were sown in January from fronds taken off old plants and laid in paper to dry; the flat was filled with the soil worked out of the Fernroots used for Orchid potting; the top was sifted very fine and well watered, and the spores sown the next day. All this is simple enough, but the trouble begins when the young plants are large enough to be transplanted into other flats; however, with care, the loss will be very small and the gain considerable. The varieties of Pteris are common enough as selfsown plants, and it is only with the rare kinds, that it is worth while to take the time and trouble to raise plants from spores.
If plenty of heat is at one's disposal it is better to get in cuttings of Crotons soon. They take some time to root, and will make fine plants in a season if the cuttings are taken early in the year and grown on rapidly. Crotons make fine decorative plants for the house and stand well in such conditions. They light up well and show most brilliant colors if grown with plenty of light in the growing season. They are not of much value in this state for outdoor decoration in summer, but farther south they are superb; I have seen them especially rich in color, in the city of Washington.
Seeds should now be selected from well-berried and shapely plants of Jerusalem Cherry, and sown the first week in January to produce good plants of a serviceable size for next fall. We have grown Benary's dwarf strain for several years, and these plants are most serviceable at this time of year. They are all thrown away when their season is over, and the older plan of cutting back and keeping over is superseded by sowing seed early and planting out-of-doors in summer.
Hybrid Roses that are wanted for early spring must now be put in a cool house, where the temperature does not exceed fifty at night for a start. We have adopted the plan of growing all in boxes now, and find this much the better way. It the plants have been two years in the same soil they may be taken out and planted in fresh material before starting them. The change does not cause much check if the work is carefully done, and if, as is most likely, the boxes are in an unsound condition. We are using Cypress lumber now for all boxes for use in the greenhodse. It is as cheap as good Pine and lasts much longer. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

9 January 1895
Laelia autumnalis
Mexican orchids take kindly to our system of cultivation under glass. They flower freely, make satisfactory progress each year, and in many instances the bulbs made here are superior to those made in their native land. There are but few exceptions to this rule, Cattleya citrina being, perhaps, the most noticeable. Laelia autumnalis is one of our best autumn-flowering Orchids, and, among Laelias, ranks next in importance to the varieties of L. anceps. A few years ago a white-flowered form of L. autumnalis was unknown, but there is now a fine plant in the collection of C. G. Roebling, Esq., of Trenton, New Jersey, and as it appeared the other day it is worth going a long distance to see. There were two spikes bearing six flowers each, their color pure white, with no tinge of pink. This collection is especially rich in white forms of Cattleyas and Laelias, and no opportunity is lost to make it as complete as possible. Perhaps the best of the colored forms of Laelia autumnalis is the one known as L. atrorubens. This is a rich carmine, and fades less than the commoner kinds. They are all worth growing, since they last so long on the plant, although when cut the flowers of L. autumnalis and L. anceps keep poorly, presumably on account of the wiry nature of their stems. When left on the plant they may be enjoyed for three or four weeks. Laelia Arnoldiana seems to be little more than a well-marked form, probably geographical, of L. autumnalis, which it closely resembles. It flowers at the same time of year. All of these Laelias may be had in bloom at Christmas-time without any trouble.
Mexican Laelias like plenty of light in the growing-season; a very light coat of white lead, thinned with kerosene, and, if desired, tinted with chrome-green, is a good shading medium, as it comes off readily in the fall. A green-tinted shade is not so conspicuous in the landscape as a white one. If shade has to be provided early in the year, it is better to thin the white lead with turpentine, as this dries rapidly, and is not liable to be washed off by rain or evaporated moisture, as may happen when kerosene is used. In summer, when the kerosene dries quickly, this objection to its use does not hold.
We use no material but Fern-root for these Mexican Orchids. The resting period in winter, and the consequent drying out of the material, soon kills moss, if it is used, and makes it unfit for the roots, but if Fern-root alone is used, water can be abundantly applied all through the growing season, and with an airy house there is no trouble in growing these Orchids and in producing bulbs as large as are made in Mexico. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

23 January 1895
Shall we have an Orchid Society?
To the Editor of GARDEN AND FOREST: Sir, Cypripediums are grown more frequently in American collections than any other members of the Orchid family, and they bid fair to become as popular for decorative purposes here as they are in Europe. Their flowers show great variety in form and color, and have lasting qualities that are unequaled. Some Orchids are favorites at once, but the taste for Cypripediums seems to be an acquired one, and one that usually comes after experience with other Orchids. Never theless, they are already so popular, and the raising of seedlings has become so general, that questions of nomenclature have become important. If the present ratio of increase here in new varieties continues long, we certainly ought to have some authority recognized on this side of the Atlantic as competent to give certificates of merit and stability of names to such seedlings or hybrids as are worthy of perpetuating. It seems to be unfair that our growers should be compelled to send material for such judgment to Kew, not only on account of the delay, but because of the difficulty in getting the material there in good condition. If we had an Orchid Society established here its certificates would add value to new plants raised here and give authority for naming them. Our growers of seedlings and hybridizers sometimes feel that they do not receive due credit for their work, and this would not be the case if such work were passed upon by a society of recognized rank, whose proceedings would be published, copied and spread abroad over all the civilized world. We should know little of the work done by amateur and professional cultivators in Europe were it not for the societies which give awards for this work, and these awards are, as a matter of course, published in horticultural periodicals. It seems evident that an Orchid Society here would do, to a certain extent, for American growers what similar organizations in Europe are doing for the producers of new and improved varieties in Cypripediums and other Orchids in Old World gardens. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

6 February 1895
Treatment of Amaryllis
In visits to other gardens it is noticeable that the Amaryllis or Hippeastrum is more generally cultivated than heretofore. This is not surprising when one considers how easily they are grown, and the great improvement that has taken place of recent years in such strains as are sent out by Messrs. Veitch and others. Some visitors who were here recently were most enthusiastic in their praise of the display of Hippeastrums at the Chelsea Nurseries. The question was asked if they did not take a great deal of heat, and it was a surprise to them to find in the coolest house over one hundred flowering bulbs that had been raised from the strain they had admired when in London. We are trying a few this winter in the cellar to see whether it is possible to keep them there when at rest, and the experiment so far seems a success. If they can be kept in a cool cellar after the foliage has died off it will be a great gain of storage-room in the greenhouse.
It has been noted previously that the best way to obtain a good strain of Hippeastrum is to sow seed as soon as it can be had fresh, which is in August. As the germinating power is soon lost, it is best to wait until fresh seed is harvested, when it should be sown as soon as it arrives. If this has already been done, the young bulbs must be grown on without any check until they are two years old. The foliage will then dry off naturally, and the bulbs will be best kept perfectly dry, until there are signs of growth in the early months of the year. We have already picked out a few that were starting to throw up flower-spikes, but the majority of them are still at rest, and will remain so as long as we can keep them dormant, for we want them most during May and later.
After the bulbs reach flowering strength they are as truly deciduous as a Hyacinth, losing both foliage and roots each year. They must of necessity be potted in new soil as soon as signs of growth commence, to avoid check to the young roots just starting out. After potting, a warm greenhouse is all that is needed to keep them growing until the warmer days of spring have come. After flowering we put them in a frame out-of-doors to mature the growth, and give them all the sun and air in summer, since, being natives of South America, our sun in summer is not too much for them, and serves well to ripen and insure a good bloom the next year. It will be seen that it is necessary to grow these bulbs in the greenhouse on stages for three or four months only; the space occupied during that time is not such a great consideration when we take into account the decorative uses of the plants when in bloom. The most suitable soil is one that is rich and porous; we use charcoal freely, and loam, leaf-mold and a little manure, preferably that from the sheep-pasture, seems to suit them best. The bulbs should be potted in the soil to about half of their depth, leaving the upper half uncovered.
Thrips are the only enemies of these plants that seem to trouble the cultivator, and their ravages are soon apparent by the red color of the under sides of the foliage. We use Firtree oil to spray with when it is too late to apply tobacco-dust as a preventive; but it is best to keep a sharp watch and take this pest in time, when tobacco will be found an effective remedy. Amaryllis aulica has been used as one of the parents of some of the garden Amaryllis, with the result of a tendency in the plants to be evergreen. This is a disadvantage if the bulbs have to be stored under the benches, as these need a good light in winter. Many of the evergreen sorts are good, but they are excelled by those that have been obtained from the deciduous species, such as Hippeastrum vittatum, H. equestre and H. reticulatum.
It is too often the case that a plant after it has bloomed is put in some out-of-the-way corner, and left there until the time comes to store it for the winter. But a glance at the bulbs after thev have flowered will show that they are shrunken to about half their normal size, indicating loss of tissue. To replace this the plants should be plunged into some material o keep the roots cool and moist until the time comes to dry them off in fall. A spent hot-bed, old mushroom-bed material, or even leaf-mold, answers well, and there is not so much labor needed to water when the pots are plunged.
We find that very few bulbs need a pot larger than six inches. The young offsets that form after the bulb reaches the flowering size are taken off at each annual potting when they are large enough. Several of these are put in a pot and grown on until they are large enough to bloom. Sometimes an unusually large bulb is put into a seven-inch pot, but the majority are grown in the smaller size, which is sufficiently large and more easily handled than are the larger pots. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

27 February 1895
Violet Notes
Much has recently been written on the Violet and its liability to disease, and it is generally admitted that there is no cure for the dread spot when once it has got well started. We have had considerable trouble in fighting off this disease, and have come to the conclusion that enough runners pulled off in the fall to supply plants required for the next year's crop should be kept in a cold frame all winter. In this way the stock will become strong and vigorous and better able to withstand the attacks of disease should this appear. Our plants are, in every way,- better this winter than we have ever had them before, and the crop of flowers is much larger. These plants have not been subjected to fire-heat for three generations, and we hope in this way to keep them altogether free from disease. It is not fair to subject Violets to the heat of our cool greenhouses even as they are kept in the spring months, and after the plants have been forced to produce big crops, to take off stock for the ensuing winter and subject this stock to the excessive heat of our summers. The boxes of cuttings are frozen for several weeks in severe weather in the frames, but if they have made roots in the fall this does not injure them in the least, and they remain there until planting-out time in May, thus saving much valuable time and space in the greenhouse in the busy spring months. The Violet known as the Farquhar is identical with the kind long grown, both here and in English gardens, under the name of New York, and it would be interesting to know more of its origin. That it is a sport from the well-known Campbell can scarcely be considered, it being in every respect a direct antithesis to that variety, and resembling much more the Marie Louise; indeed, it is hard to distinguish between Farquhar and Marie Louise as usually grown. If Marie Louise will do well, there is no other kind as good. Growers recently had an opportunity of noting their excellence when these flowers were exhibited in Boston by Mr. Mackay, of Framingham, Massachusetts. They had been grown in pots in a cool house and were of superb color, large size, and very fragrant. As long as such fine flowers can be grown there is still a future for the old Marie Louise. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

20 March 1895
Lilies
The sooner work is begun in the outdoor garden the better it will be for many plants next summer. Many herbaceous plants begin to make root as soon as frost has left the soil, and this first start should, if possible, be made where the plants are to grow. This is especially true of Lilies, the fall planting of which is always desirable. But as a large proportion of the bulbs cannot be purchased until winter has set in, spring planting is often a necessity; the Japan Lilies, for example, have only recently been received. Japan and China have contributed to our gardens to a surprising degree, and much that has been credited to Japan has probably come from China, but has been received through Japanese channels. But, whatever their original home, we should seriously miss them from our gardens, and our Lilybeds would suffer greatly if deprived of the species from the east. Some of these do not last long with us, as in the case of Lilium auratum, which we rarely hear of as thriving for more than a season or two at most. I have certainly never seen it established like the varieties of L. speciosum. A Lily more generally seen each year, as its good qualities become known, appears to be a natural hybrid between L. auratum and L. speciosum, and is known as L. auratum platyphyllum, or L. auratum macranthum. It would pass for the true L. auratum in all respects but for its broad foliage, which is quite as broad as that of L. speciosum, and the bulbs live and increase year after year, as do those of L. speciosum, in our gardens. This Lily is more expensive than some of the other kinds at first cost, but once purchased it does not need to be replenished, and it blooms regularly every season. Another good hardy Lily is L. Wallichianum superbum, one of the most beautiful Lilies known, a native of the Himalayas. It promises to be popular, since it is easily propagated, rivaling the old Tiger Lily in ability to make young bulbs on the flower-stems at the base of each leaf, many of which will flower the second year. It is quite possible that we may yet see it grown in greenhouses as generally as the well-known L. longiflorum, which it resembles in some respects. The flowers are tubular, rosy-brown tinted outside, and white, with a rich yellow inside, that has given rise to the name L. sulphureum, which is now regarded as the correct name by authorities on Lilies. While this Lily has proved perfectly hardy in Massachusetts without any protection at all, it is better to give it the usual covering of dry leaves in autumn, as is the practice with other kinds.
Other new and beautiful kinds of Lilies of recent introduction are Lilium Alexandrae, said also to be of hybrid origin between L. auratumn platyphyllum and L. longiflorum. If it is really a natural hybrid some time must elapse before it can be disseminated in any numbers. The new L. Henryi, a native of central China, with the form and rich red spots of L. speciosum, is of a uniform rich apricot-yellow in color. At Kew this fine Lily is said to have proved hardy and strong, making stems over eight feet high, and producing as many as fourteen flowers on a stem. It increases rapidly under the same cultivation given to other kinds, and is, no doubt, a true species, having foliage resembling that of L. speciosum. This valuable acquisition suggests that the interior of China holds many beautiful plants desirable for our gardens as yet unknown to cultivation and to science. For L. Henryi we are indebted to Dr. Augustine Henry, who found it growing in two places only, near Ichang, on grassy slopes, at 200 to 2,000 feet elevation. The probabilities are that it will prove hardy in this part of the United States.
Among rare Lilies should be named Lilium speciosum Melpomene, a very richly colored form, perhaps the richest of all the varieties of L. speciosum. While it is rare in cultivation, other forms being substituted for it, it should not remain so, for it is not much more expensive than the others, costing about one-third more, and is far more beautiful. An importation of this sort is now daily expected, and we hope to have a fine group of this variety and the best of the white forms, L. speciosum album praecox. The latter make a good contrast, and flower about the same time, whether in pots or planted out in the borders. Lilies which have been protected during winter must not be uncovered too early in April, and a little protection is necessary until all likelihood of frost is past. The young growing shoots are very easily injured by frost, especially if there is no protective growth near them, such as is furnished by a Rhododendron-bed. If the shoots are already above ground when the bed is uncovered they should be covered over with a handful of leaves and left to come through naturally. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

27 March 1895
Flower Garden Notes
Alterations are needed in the garden that have suggested themselves during the past season, and if, as often happens, there was not time to make these in the early fall, they should be started as soon as the soil is in workable condition. The roots of plants and trees seem to begin their work before the frost is really out of the ground, and certainly the earlier plants are moved the more likely are they to make a good display.
Paeonies should be moved very early, especially if the roots are to be divided. They are generally considered difficult to transplant, but this is not true if they are moved early enough and all the tubers taken up without damage, a sharp knife being used to sever the parts near the buds, so that they may not be injured. If these details are seen to, the plants will flower as well during the succeeding summer as though they had not been disturbed. The Tree Paeonies are not seen in gardens as often as they deserve. They are perfectly hardy with us; they flower as freely as the herbaceous kinds, and much earlier in the season before the arrival of the rose-bugs; this is a great advantage, for it is difficult to think of the later kinds without associating them with this troublesome pest. The old Paeonia officinalis is also early-flowering, and belongs to a different section, being, indeed, a true species, with several varieties. The old original scarlet is a fine showy plant in the border, coming in soon after P. tenuifolia. P. corallina is a single-flowered early species with coral-red flowers. This plant is rare in gardens, and is a native of Asia Minor. Another good garden-plant is P. Wittmanniana, from the Caucasus, with very distinct foliage, and single creamy white flowers early in the season. P. corallina and P. Wittmanniana are proving quite hardy here, and add much to the interest of the garden early in the season, between the flowering of spring bulbs and the majority of true herbaceous plants. Single-flowered Paeonies are not often seen, partly on account of their rarity in trade-lists, but their beauty is undisputed. P. albiflora is more common, but is grown by few cultivators, though it is a fine companion for the above-named sorts, and is the parent of the race of our numerous garden varieties. It is not commonly known that in California, and I think also in Oregon, a Paeony is found growing wild. This Paeony, P. Browni, is not a showy plant, and for this reason is but little known, but it is a true Paeony, indigenous to the United States.
It is now proven that the Eremuri can be grown here as easily as in Europe, and they are among the most noble of hardy plants. We have three specimens established here, but have thus far flowered only Eremurus robustus; the others will probably flower during the coming season. The long, thick, fleshy roots of the Eremuruses are peculiar in their construction; they radiate from a central crown-bud and spread in all directions, making it difficult to pack them safely. Our roots came from Holland in good condition, and E. robustus flowered the first summer after planting, as noted in GARDEN AND FOREST last year. The other two kinds are E. Himalayacus and E. Olgae. We planted them in a situation that insured dryness in the fall, so that the crowns should ripen after flowering. A thin covering of manure was spread over the soil in fall as a mulch rather than as a protection. Eremurus-seeds seem to be somewhat erratic in their germination. We sowed all that matured as soon as they were ripe, and only two plants have come up, while Mr. Endicott stated in GARDEN AND FOREST some time since that seeds he sowed came up thickly under the same treatment. Eremuri should be planted in the fall, as the foliage dies down soon after the plants flower in summer, and reappears very early in spring; it would, therefore, be unwise to disturb the roots in the spring unless this cannot be avoided.
The stock of hardy Pyrethrums is easily increased at this time, or as soon as the young shoots appear above ground. These may be taken off as low down as possible and the cuttings put in sand. They will root quickly and flower during the coming summer as well as if they were left on the old roots. Old clumps may also be divided, and then there are always some shoots that may be spared for use as cuttings. For the best double kinds it is desirable to have a few reserve plants, since the old clumps sometimes die out if left too long in one place and the soil becomes exhausted. Propagation cannot be done too soon after the shoots show above ground in spring. Old plants of the Oriental Poppies must also be moved at the first peeping of the shoots, as these are early-flowering and strong-growing plants. They need rich soil and fall planting, if this is possible. To propagate more Poppies, as soon as the roots can be lifted they should be cut in pieces an inch or two long and these should be placed in sand in a warm house when they will sprout in a week or two. They will make fine stock to flower next year if these young plants are set out in May in good soil. Root-cuttings are the only reliable means to reproduce any special variety, as from seed scarcely any two will be alike. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

3 April 1895
Onosma stellulatum
It was a great pleasure the other day to see in the nurseries of J. W. Manning, at Reading, Massachusetts, a good lot of this beautiful and rare hardy plant, for this is one of the plants that are never forgotten after they are once seen. The Onosmas belong to the Borage family, and all have the characteristic rough foliage; very few are desirable garden-plants, but O. stellulatumn is an exception, and its drooping heads of bright yellow sweet-scented flowers justify the garden name of Golden Drops, which has been given to it. This same plant is often known as O. Tauricum, and the authorities seem now to regard the latter as a fixed yellow-flowered form of O. stellulatum, the flowers of which vary from white to various shades of yellow. There is a difficulty often experienced in keeping the plant for any length of time under cultivation, and it is caused in most instances by planting it on a level ground and in soil that is retentive of moisture. A sharp sandy soil, not over rich, and sloping toward the sun, is admirably adapted to its culture. After flowering, the first opportunity should be taken to put in a few cuttings, which should be taken off with a hard base and placed in clear sand, where they will root without trouble, and duplicates can then be had to make good a possible loss. Our losses have invariably occurred during a protracted wet period in dog days. Heavy showers will then bespatter the foliage with soil, and the plants fall an easy prey to damp before the danger is noted; hence the desirability of planting in free soil and the usefulness of placing small stones under the plants to keep the earth cool and protect the foliage. O. albo-roseum is an annual species, with which we have never been able to succeed; and we have still another species from seed sent from Asia Minor, but this is not old enough to bloom yet, although it promises to do so this season. Of some seventy species of this genus, the above are about all that are in cultivation now, the rest not being introduced yet. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

10 April 1895
Rose, Marchioness of Londonderry
This comes to us as a new Rose of 1893, and it is one of the fine series which has emanated from the nurseries of Messrs. Dickson, of Newtownards, Ireland, during the past few years, and it has the distinction of having won the gold medal of the National Rose Society. It is hardy, with foliage that is at once a recommendation, being similar to that of the Ulrich Brunner, and quite as beautiful. The stems are also without thorns-a desirable feature in any Rose that has to be handled. The flowers are of the largest size, almost six inches across when fully open, of a most delicate shade of pink in the centre, something like that of the Daybreak Carnation, but paler, and shading from the centre to pure white at the edges. In all the English descriptions that we have access to, this Rose is described as pure white, but the pink shade is quite pronounced as grown here, reminding one of the old Souvenir de la Malmaison tint, and, indeed, it would not be surprising to learn that this plant has some influence as one of the parents of the Marchioness of Londonderry. The fragrance is similar also, and it has the smooth wood of the older kind. There seems to be no doubt that this new Rose will prove hardy, and it is listed as a Hybrid Perpetual, which is equivalent to the term Remontant. Both are unhappy terms as applied to outdoor Roses, as they rarely flower but once in a season. For forcing under glass the Marchioness of Londonderry can be highly recommended as being of a rare shade, pleasing, one of the largest Roses known, and as easy to force as Ulrich Brunner. Those who have seen the new Rose Clio in London speak highly of it as a beautiful new white Rose. It is one of Paul's, and we may expect to hear more of it, since hardy white Roses are scarce. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

17 April 1895
Notes on Orchids
Lycaste Skinneri
This is one of the best-known Orchids, and one of the most satisfactory to grow, being of easy management and semi-terrestrial in habit. There is considerable variation in the flowers, which is quite noticeable when a number of plants are in bloom at thesame time. One of the purest of white Orchids is the white form of Lycaste Skinneri; from this variety the colors vary to deep crimson through all the intermediate shades. A year ago we had some two dozen plants, but they took up too muc'h room on the side benches, due to the spreading habit of the foliage, and we concluded to put them in baskets and suspend them in the cool greenhouse. The experiment has been a decided success; in fact, the plants seem to do much better than when the roots were confined in pots. The baskets are twelve inches in diameter, and some of these have at this time over fifty open flowers. The blossoms are very durable, owing to their wax-like texture, and the plants are especially suitable for room decoration at this season. To grow L. Skinneri well the cool house should be kept at about fifty degrees as a minimum. It is one of the easiest of Orchids to accommodate.
We find that these semi-terrestrial Orchids, Lycastes particularly, will take liquid nourishment at, frequent intervals if applied in weak doses. Under this treatment bulbs of extralarge size are produced, and these bear from ten to twelve flowers each, and sometimes even more. The white form seems more delicate in constitution and needs a little more warmth and less moisture at the roots, or the bulbs become spotted with disease and are hard to grow out of it. A shady position is best during the season of, growth, but in winter, when maturing, we give the plants full sunshine until the flowers commence to open. There is practically no resting period for L. Skinneri, or, at least, no continued period for drought at the roots; they should be kept moist at all times, and it is one of the reasons why the plants do not do so well sometimes when grown in pots.
Dendrobium nobile Allanianum
Of the many well-marked forms of the old Dendrobium nobile, a few are conspicuous, especially among the dark ones. After the variety nobilius, the variety Allanianum is, perhaps, the best, the flowers being of large size, very dark and unique, in having a fine polish over the entire surface of the flower. It is as distinct in its way as C. villosum is among Cypripediums. We find it to be a good grower, much better than D. nobile nobilius in this respect, a great point in its favor, for it is difficult to grow some of the rarest Dendrobes into specimens. We have given up the use of wood baskets for Dendrobes, as this genus resents disturbance at the root more than most Orchids, and it is hard to separate the roots from the wood when it becomes necessary to place the plants in larger receptacles. We use perforated pans and suspend them with wires; it is easy to break a pan and take out the plant. In the Orchid Review some time ago one of the best English cultivators advised that nothing but clean sphagnum-moss be used for Dendrobes, and asked gardeners to give this material a fair trial and report the results. I am in favor of the plan after a year's trial. These plants abhor sour, inert material about the roots, and this fresh living medium seems to be just what is needed. At the end of a year, or after the resting period, this moss is, of course, dead, and we take a Stott sprayer, removing the cap, and with warm water wash every particle of moss from the roots. If the roots are matted about the pans these are placed inside of larger pans with a few pieces of drainage, and the surfacing of moss added. It is surprising how soon the young roots take possession of this fresh moss. We have plants of D. nobile three years old, from an old bulb, that made growths two feet long last summer, and in one instance as many as six leads starting away strong for the present year.
Young plants observed starting away from the upper part of the bulbs of Dendrobiums at this season should be taken off now and potted in small pots, and these placed in a basket and suspended in a warm house. It is surprising how soon these make good plants to take the place of older and worn-out ones. At this time care must be taken that no water gets into the young growths on dull days, or they will soon rot off and the plant receive a check. This is especially true of D. Phalaenopsis. To avoid this trouble we have used nothing but fern-root for potting material; in this instance moss seems to retain too much moisture about the few roots made, and these are very susceptible to overwatering. The best time to repot D. Phalenopsis is now; small pans should be used - the smaller the better - and they should be suspended in the warmest position in the East Indian house. Plants of this species imported last fall are starting away finely hung up close to the light, and will flower sooner than those that were obtained some time ago and are well settled down to a regular period of growth.
Horticulture is said to be full of empiricisms, and even one genus of Orchids affords a study in the needs of each species. We often know nothing of the conditions under which they grow naturally, and when we are able to learn something of these conditions it is often impossible to imitate them under artificial means. So we have to grope along as best we may, sometimes stumbling upon a way in which a particular plant may be grown well for a long period. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

24 April 1895
Flower Garden Notes
The unusually late spring makes garden work a week or two later than in ordinary seasons. Though planting cannot be done now, the preparation of the soil can go on, and when herbaceous plants show signs of activity changes can then be quickly made. The delay caused by the late spring enforces what has been advised before — that fall planting is always preferable for this class of plants, since in most cases one can judge better of the habits and height while the tops are on the plants. We find each year that some kinds will outdo themselves in vigor, and need to be moved further back, divided or thinned. If there is doubt now as to how the alterations should be carried out it is better to wait until another year, and make careful note during the growing period, so that the necessary changes may be made in the fall.
The planting of shrubs and conifers should be done now if they have already been lifted to prevent an early start of the buds. If this provision has been taken there need be no risk in planting until a month later. When planting is well done it is done for all time, and it is best to have the ground well dug at least eighteen inches deep. This can be accomplished by trenching or double digging the soil and mixing the manure well into the bottom, for if the roots are encouraged to go well down there is much less danger of injury from drought in hot weather; besides, trees and shrubs take hold more quickly and thrive better. Magnolias should be planted in the spring. They are often difficult to establish, but when well started are among the best of flowering trees. It often happens that only small plants are obtainable, especially of the rare forms. It is well to grow these on in pots for a year until they are well rooted, and then transfer them to the places assigned to them. The soil should be good to a depth that will make future transplanting unnecessary, for Magnolias are the most impatient of root-disturbance of all our trees. Hot drying winds in exposed places make sad work with newly moved trees.
Young trees or conifers planted in rows to grow on for later use should be moved at least once in two years to insure a good number of young fibrous roots in a compact mass. Young stock grown in this way is worth twice as much as stock that has not been transplanted, and if the room can be spared to shift them, the labor is not too great when the results are considered. We find that this biennial moving does not in the least interfere with the season's growth of evergreens. The check given to the growth of deciduous trees and shrubs benefits them by making well-balanced heads, with fewer strong shoots that have to be pruned out later on. Those who wish to add to their collections new and interesting novelties as they appear, realize the value of this reserve nursery, and know, also, that newly purchased or rare trees are often too small to plant at once in permanent positions. If these are allowed a year or two in a temporary place, so as to become acclimated and of larger size, an opportunity is meanwhile afforded to select the best place for their permanent planting, and the planting of a tree needs careful consideration with a view to its maturity.
A reserve border of herbaceous plants is also desirable, made up of kinds recently raised from seed, and which will not flower for a year or more; of duplicates, others that are on trial as to hardiness or desirability, and new and unknown sorts, as a lot recently raised here from seeds received from Asia Minor. These unfamiliar plants should be kept where, they are not likely to be rooted out by those unfamiliar with their appearance when the borders are weeded. We have to mourn the loss of many plants in this way, but a straight row in the reserve border is comparatively free from this danger. Such a border is useful, too, to fill up losses.
Narcissi are coming on better this year than usual, and we shall soon be able to cut the first flowers from the borders. Hardy Narcissi are more useful than is generally supposed. They provide the first outdoor cut flowers; they have a strength and beauty all their own, and last much longer than those forced indoors, for the sorts that are best as hardy plants are too valuable to be grown for forcing. They have also more substance, with distinct contrasts in coloring. They are for the most part of garden origin, the result of the hybridist's skill, and not mere wild forms, although the wild forms have much to recommend them. The substance of Horsfieldii, Empress, Emperor, M. Foster, Henry Irving and Golden Spur constitutes the value these species have when cut for use indoors. The continued cold of the past winter seems to have suited the Narcissi well. There has been no early start, with succeeding chills, such as occurred a year ago, and the tops have none of the seared look that they took on then. A good display of flowers is promised soon, and a healthy growth of the bulbs afterward.
The newly introduced Spanish forms of Narcissi have disappeared almost to a bulb; they proved unsuited to our climate, while, as already stated, the garden hybrids have the best constitutions and multiply most quickly. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

8 May 1895
Insect Pests
No one knows until he undertakes to cultivate the soil how many evils plants are heir to, and these seem to be on the increase. The insect pests, owing, presumably, to the survival of the fittest, seem to be more highly educated than of old, and it is only by continued watchfulness that successful crops can be grown. It seems to me, after a few years' study of this phase of garden routine, that insecticides are most profitably used as preventives. The process of fumigation is by no means the best method to adopt, especially with houses of mixed plants, such as are generally grown for gardens that exist for the pleasure of the owner, and not for commercial purposes. In the use of tobacco in its various forms as an insecticide we have a great advantage over European cultivators in that we can get an article good, cheap and pure in tobacco-stems fresh from the factory. That they lose much of their strength through keeping and exposure there is no doubt. If fumigation is necessary these stems should not be used, for there is too much heat generated for the amount of smoke given off. A cheap grade of damaged leaf tobacco has been found to be the best and cheapest for the purpose, for so little smoke to kill that it rarely has density or heat enough to burn delicate foliage. It is a long time now, however, since we used the smoke-pot, and this is due entirely to the scattering of the stems on the benches between the pots or on wire netting placed on the heating pipes. If used in the latter way, and damped occasionally, so as to give off a medicated vapor, hot water is almost as good as steam pipes as a vaporizing medium, and the stems will retain their strength for many weeks.
Those who have tried to grow Cineirarias and Calceolarias know how liable these are to the attacks of aphides, and how difficult it is to fumigate without damaging the plants. These plants furnish a striking proof that fumigation is not the best way to kill insect pests. It is barbarous to subject the plants to such an ordeal, to say nothing of the operator, when a sprinkling of stems around the pots, renewed two or three times during the season of growth, will quite clear them of insects, so that there is a real pleasure in growing the plants.
We have always had a great deal of trouble with what is known in common garden language as the Orchid thrips, a little white insect, barely visible to the naked eye, but which, before it is discovered, does great damage to the young foliage of plants. Cypripediums are happy hunting-grounds for these thrips, and there is no insecticide that I know that will check them except tobacco-stems liberally sprinkled between the plants. If badly affected it is well to sponge the foliage with an insecticide first to get rid of the older ones, and the young insects will be killed off as they hatch out. It is said that as the tobacco-stems decay a large amount of ammonia is given off into the atmosphere, producing a healthy green in the leaves, more especially of Orchids. I am of opinion that this is something more than a theory. By taking a bunch of tobacco-stems and damping them it will be found-after fermentation sets in that a pronounced quantity of ammonia is given off into the atmosphere for the plants to breathe. While it might be possible to overdo the matter in the use of too much of the tobacco-stems at a time, I have never had this occur. If their use is not so plentiful as to cause an untidy look on the benches it is safe to say there need be no fear as to damage, and preventive measures are much cheaper than any others. We have lately had for trial a new insecticide, known as Lenmon oil; it is a preparation similar to that called Fir-tree oil, and acts in the same way when mixed with water, but we find that it is not so liable to do damage as the latter, and is of use'for a greater variety of plants. There is no need to wash off the mixture from the roots of plants as it is said to be also a fertilizer of the soil.
Tobacco-dust is now put up by all dealers and is a nmost effectual remedy for aphides. This also is a fertilizer, and if it is necessary to give more than one dusting it will benefit the roots as well as kill the insects. There seems to be a great difference in the quality of this article as put up for sale. We were ind~uced to buy a barrel of it once, the price being low when bought in bulk; this particular lot was practically worthless, and it is reasonable that pure tobacco-dust could not have been sold at the price paid. I have found that the coarser grades are the purest and the best to use.
A word should be said for that best of all insecticides, cold water with a good force behind it. There are few insects that can withstand this treatment, especially if the Stott sprayer is used. We have four of them in steady use, and plant-growing has been much simplified by this invention. When some means is devised for mixing the various insecticides with the water as it comes from the main, there will be little excuse for unhealthy insect-ridden plants in the garden. White scale insects on Orchids are usually very hard to eradicate, especially on Cattleyas, and these are often infested when brought in from their native woods. The Stott sprayer makes clean work, and does not injure even the young growing tips of the roots if used carefully. If the least trace of scale is noticed it is best to apply this cure at once, for it is surprising how rapidly this insect debilitates plants. It should, perhaps, be said that our water-pressure is over one hundred pounds as it comes from the main, but a much less force would be sufficient, though how little would be enough I am unable to say. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

22 May 1895
Narcissus Notes
The flowering season of Narcissus is nearly past now, and only the midseason and late varieties of N. poeticus remain to bloom. The experience of this year has not added to the knowledge of the various kinds in cultivation. One thing is certain, however, in this country, that if the climate or soil does not suit any particular kind of Daffodil it will be surely apparent the spring following the first summer's growth in a weak start and sparse flowering, while hardly a trace of the plants will be left the next year. Of those that have disappeared I cannot call to mind a single kind that I would care to have again, and the best sorts thrive and increase at a surprising rate. Mr. Gerard said, in his last notes on this subject, that a bad memory is a good thing to carry at times in the garden, and this is forcibly brought home to me at times when near the Daffodil beds. It has often been noted in these columns that during summer these beds are filled with annuals such as Asters, Mignonette and others, and last fall when these were past a workman was instructed to clear off the remains, and in his anxiety to clear away everything he pulled up about seventy Narcissus labels. This will explain why a detailed list of losses cannot be given. The better-known and larger-flowered varieties can, of course, be identified, but the bulbs belonging to the Burbidgei, Leedsi and incomparabilis sections had better be lifted and naturalized in the Grass, as has been done with surplus stock of the Poets' Narcissus. In places where many spring-flowering bulbs are used there is abundant room for planting the cheaper kinds in the sod where the grass is not cut until midsummer. We have tried this plan with success in an orchard under the Apple-trees. No care was taken to prepare the soil or even disturb the sod; a spade was thrust into the soil and a bulb put in each place, and I am inclined to believe that if the newer Spanish kinds had been treated in this way they would have lived longer and flowered well, while under the treatment given to the strongergrowing garden varieties they soon died; perhaps from cold, as we never cover the beds in fall unless the bulbs are planted late; it may have been from too generous treatment, as has been suggested.
We have been particularly fortunate in having the so-called white varieties live and do well. Albicans, Colleen Bawn, Moschatus, Leda, Mrs. J. B. M. Camm, William Goldring, have all done well and flowered each year, but we take care not to manure them in fall as we do the others that are grown for cut flowers.
One of the gems of the border is the Irish form of the double Jonquil, with the astonishing name of Narcissus odorus plenus Hibernicus. We have had it four years, and it never fails to bloom, and increases each year. On the contrary, N. capax plenus has disappeared. N. biflorus is another of the uncommon kinds that do well. It is very late in blooming, and resembles the Tazetta section in general appearance, having several flowers to each stem, and these fragrant. Muticus, the last of the Trumpet Daffodils, has taken longer to die than any other, and there are still a few left. These were evidently collected bulbs, as no two were alike, but they did not take kindly to cultivation. We have now a fine reserve stock of bulbs to dig from to grow in pots in winter. Home-grown stock is far preferable to any that can be imported, and after flowering these are replanted in among the shrubs, and in two years are as good as ever. Those who intend to plant Daffodils will do well to make out a plan of the bed after the work is completed, and keep it for reference. Had this been done in our case the loss of our labels would have been less of a disaster. No one can go amiss in planting such kinds as Emperor, Empress, Horsfieldii, M. Foster, Grandee, Countess of Annesley, Princeps, Golden Spur, Obvallaris, Sir Watkin and Henry Irving. Maximus and Ard Righ have not done so well as we anticipated, and have now almost died out.
Border culture has one disadvantage in that after every April shower the purity of the flowers is marred by the earth that has been splashed over them, and there seems to be no way of preventing this except by planting in the grass; this we shall try on a much more extensive way next fall. Regular masses should be avoided, or the effect would be more or less artificial. I have seen acres of the common kind growing wild in pastures in the southern counties of England, and cattle do not seem to eat the foliage, or these wild Daffodils would have been extinct long ago. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

5 June 1895
Miltonia vexillaria
The picture of a fine variety of this plant in GARDEN AND FOREST for May 15th reminds me of the ease with which this Orchid may be cultivated in American gardens. I was told by a distinguished English visitor the other day that we do this plant much better than they can in England, and this is remarkable in that the standard works on Orchids seem to insist on an equable temperature the year through, and it is the more surprising that with our extremes we can succeed so well with a plant enveloped in mists and rain for the greater part of the day in its South American home. We have one advantage over transatlantic cultivators in the tobacco-stems that are so easily obtained for the purpose of keeping down thrips, a pest to which Miltonia vexillaria is specially subjected.
Our plants were infested when received, but a few dustings of tobacco in the axils of the leaves and tobacco-stems spread under and round the plants as they grew, soon cleared them of insects, and insured good, clean, healthy growth. This Miltonia is another of those Orchids that can be counted on to increase both in size and value each year. If carefully placed in the coolest house in the summer months, and at the cool end of the Cattleya house, where a temperature of fifty to fifty five degrees can be obtained in winter, shaded from bright sunshine at all times, except in the depth of winter, they grow without difficulty.
After the flowering period the plants will need a little rest to recuperate, but water must not be withheld, and soon the young growths will start away, and this is the time to repot, which will be about September, when cool nights will insure a good start. For a potting compost we use moss and Fern-root, with a little dried cow-manure from the pasture. They seem to like this and manure-water at every second or third watering after the roots have begun to run through the potting material, but it should be applied well diluted.
There is no form of decoration to which these lovely flowers will not lend themselves, either as cut blooms or in the pots. The graceful, arching sprays of pink flower shades vary from a rich deep rose to the pure white of the unique "Fairy Queen," but even the common forms are beautiful enough for any garden. Many of our plants are producing four spikes from one bulb, and one of these single bulbs has forty-one flowers on the four spikes, so the free-flowering qualities of this Miltonia can hardly be overstated.
Another very fine Miltonia is M. Roezlii, and its white variety. The flowers of this plant are very fragrant and have the same outline as M. vexillaria, but it requires a warmer house than the latter, as it comes from a much lower elevation, from 1,ooo to 2,000 feet, while M. vexillaria grows at an altitude varying from 4,000 to 7,000 feet above sea-level, so that it will easily be understood that a house at least ten degrees warmer in winter is necessary for M. Roezlii, otherwise it is of the same easy culture and flowers at the same time of year.
These two Miltonias used to be and are still known in catalogues as Odontoglossums, but of recent years they have been removed to the genus Miltonia with which they have a true affinity. Owing to the recent introduction of these plants there is a reasonable hope that other large-flowered forms of M. vexillaria will soon be obtainable. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

26 June 1895
Strawberry Culture
We are now in the midst of the Strawberry season, and as our preparation for next year's supply begins as soon as we have gathered the last berries, a few notes on the method adopted are in season. Some five years ago we made an experimental plantation to ascertain which were the most suitable kinds for our soil and climate. About twenty-five sorts were planted for this purpose, only two of which are now grown here, one being Michel's Early and the other the Gandy. Of the remainder there were doubtless many that would be satisfactory in some sections, but they were a failure here; some were winter-killed, some failed to go through the summer, while others were of poor quality for home use, where quality is the first consideration. In garden-culture, where the space is often limited, it is essential to get the most out of the ground, and have none idle if possible. As Strawberries take up a good deal of space, we prepare a plot of ground well in spring. On this we plant early Peas, Spinach, Lettuce and the first sowing of Dwarf Beans, and any other crops that may be taken off before the beginning of August, and this tract is then used for the new Strawberry plantation. We find that it is useless to attempt to take more than two crops off the same bed; by the third year few of the original plants would be left, as many die each year from the grubs at the roots. After the second crop is gathered the plants are hoed off, and when dry enough are burned with the mulching under them right on the ground, and this is then prepared for the fall planting of Cabbage and Cauliflowers. Under this system we have no idle ground to keep clean, and the most is made out of the limited space at disposal. The runners for this year's planting will be taken from the bed planted last year, as there is more space between the rows wherein to plunge the pots. A trowelful of soil is dug up and placed in a three-inch pot, the pot being plunged in the hole made. The runner is then pressed into the pot, and in about two weeks will be fit to take off and plant in the new bed. We have to water a few times during this period if the weather is dry, but as the pots are sunk their depth in the ground the roots are kept cool and moist with little watering.
We adopt what is known as the hill system in planting, making the rows three feet apart and the plants two feet from each other in the rows, and the quantity produced in this way is surprising. The year-old bed produces fully two-thirds of a crop while the older one is at its maximum capacity. We have never kept a record of the quantity gathered, but hope to do so this season.
The soil we have to deal with is very shallow, with a gravel subsoil, making it difficult to keep the plants moist in summer, but we have never had them heave from frost in winter. A good soaking is given just as the first fruits begin to color, and this will carry them through even if we have no rain until all is gathered, when the beds are cleaned and watered well. Plenty of manure is used when preparing the soil for a crop that has to stand two years on the ground. In addition we apply a sprinkling of some good commercial fertilizer near the plants in the early summer before the lawn clippings are placed about them as a mulch.
From experience it seems best to cultivate only a few varieties. There is less liability to get the sorts mixed, and only a good early, a second early and late variety are needed to cover the season. Michel's Early is the best we have found for first berries, although it rarely escapes the late frosts that were so destructive this year. We have the Leader on trial as a possible substitute for it, hoping to gain size. The Parker Earle comes next, and with us is the most satisfactory of the middle—season kinds. It is not overlarge, of good color and flavor, and has the merit of separating most easily from the stem, leaving the berry in good shape, a quality highly appreciated in the kitchen. Were we restricted to one sort we should select Parker Earle. For a late main crop there seems to be nothing to equal the Gandy. It is always in its best gathering about July 4th; the size is very large, as large as any I have ever seen, not excepting the Marshall, and there is a solidity to the fruit that prevents crushing when it is being stemmed. This is the most robust in constitution of any, and the flowers are rarely injured by frost, owing to the large growth of heavy foliage. We have the Marshall on trial, and this year will prove its merits. It will thus be seen that we depend on three sorts wholly, new ones being well tested before they are planted to supersede them. No garden, however small, should be without at least three sorts, not necessarily those named, but some that suit the locality and the conditions that obtain there. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

17 July 1895
Three Good Plants
Clerodendron squamatum
A plant of this semi-shrubby Clerodendron, recently obtained from Japan, proves to be valua. ble for pot culture. It is not commonly seen in cultivation and is a native of China. The foliage is large and handsome, resembling very much that of the Catalpa, the growth being perfectly erect, with terminal heads of brilliant scarlet flowers. The flowers and the calyx are alike in color, so that the flower cluster is attractive before any of the flowers have expanded. The plant is fond of sunlight. It was grown in an unshaded house during all the hot weather we had early in the season. It would be likely to make a fine subject for planting outdoors in the extreme south and also in California. When the specimen was obtained we were under the impression that it was the plant known under this name some fifteen years ago, which was a climber requiring a warm house and bearing bright red flower-heads in the middle of winter, with rich dark green shining foliage. That plant was evidently misnamed. I should be glad if Mr. Watson could tell me if there is still such a plant in cultivation in England or elsewhere. It would be a valuable winter-flowering climber for a warm house could it be obtained.
Hamanthus Kalbreyerii
Though not a new plant, this seems to have been reintroduced into cultivation during recent years in quantity, and it has been possible to obtain this, the best of the Blood-flowers, at a reasonable price. We find that there is no difficulty in growing and flowering it if treated the same as other summer bulbs that are grown in the greenhouse. Ours were obtained last fall and placed in dry soil until spring, when signs of growth commenced. We were soon rewarded with flower-spikes, not so strong as they will be after good cultivation for a year or two, but the plants are growing vigorously in a warm, half-shaded position in the greenhouse, and we hope to have good strong spikes next year. We used to have Haemanthus puniceus, and flowered it several times, but it is not worth the space it occupied in the greenhouse. The flower-stem was short, and the head of flowers not spherical like that of H. Kalbreverii, which is the best of the genus, and worthy a place in any greenhouse where things a little out of the common are appreciated. In Nicholson's Dictionary the height of the plant is given as six inches; this is misleading, for our plants are now about three times that height and still growing. The flower-stems are produced when the plant is about a foot high, and the stems are equal in height to the foliage. This species is a native of tropical Africa.
Crinum Kircape
Through the kindness of Mr. T. L. Mead, of Oveido, Florida, I have a fine plant of his new hybrid Crinum now in bloom. It is a cross between C. Kirkii, a species from Zanzibar, and C. Capense, from south Africa. This is one of the interesting results of the work of this careful hybridist. From the bulb sent me last winter we have already had three strong flower-spikes, each bearing about a dozen sweet-scented white flowers with a decided rose-colored stripe down the outside of each petal. The plant has been in continual bloom from the time the first flower opened, one flower stem coming after the other in quick succession, and the plant has been in the dwelling-house for some time. I am not aware that any attempt has been made before to hybridize with these Crinums. I have raised seedlings myself from C. Capense, and flowered them, but in Florida, where they are hardy and need no special care in winter, they must be beautiful in summer. Mr. Mead has given the plant a compound name, in accordance with the custom now often adopted with the hybrid progeny of Orchids. If, as I believe, the cross has not been made before, there seems no reason why the name is not a good one. In general appearance the plant resembles C. Kirkii more than C. Capense (C. longifolium). The latter parent should, however, give the plant hardiness. The species is commonly grown out-of-doors in Great Britain, and is generally hardy in favorable locations. It would doubtless be hardy in many states besides Florida with a little winter protection. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

24 July 1895
Papaver bracteatum
I remember reading some time since a controversy as to whether the dark form of the Oriental Poppy was a mere seed variation or a well-marked species. It was so long ago that I forget the decision, but it has recurred to me of recent years when seeing them growing together in the garden. I decided to save seed and see whether there was any tendency to reversion to the common scarlet varieties among the plants raised. It has been the impression among growers that the peculiarity of having bracts just under the flowers was nothing to be guided by, that the rich dark color was not constant, that the plant itself could only be propagated by its own roots, and that seedlings raised therefrom would revert to the common Papaver orientale. There is, however, a decided difference in the habit of the two plants, and they can easily be distinguished when not in bloom. P. bracteatum has foliage that is much more rigid and aculeolate than P. orientale, while the flower-stems are perfectly rigid even when in bloom, so that apart from the color there seem to be good grounds to suppose that it is something more than a mere seed variation, or even selection. The results here have emphasized this opinion, for out of a large number of P. bracteatum raised from seed saved without any special protection against insect agency, and growing side by side with the other variety, not one has shown any tendency to revert, but all are true dark-flowered P. bracteatum. P. orientale does vary a great deal from seed; of the many in the garden here no two are alike, some having four petals and some more, as many as eight, while the spots at the base of the petals are eliminated in some cases altogether, and vary greatly in others. Of the two, this variety has proved to be much less constant than P. bracteatum. It is not safe to assume which is the species, and the authorities differ. P. orientale was introduced some time prior to P. bracteatum; hence the former is generally regarded as the species.
Dipladenias
These have been noted before as among the finest of summer-flowering climbers for the greenhouse, and they are now at their best, blooming with great freedom in full sunshine. It is not often that seeds are produced under cultivation, but a plant last season matured a fine seed-pod here, from which we have now some three dozen young plants growing rapidly, and we hope to bloom them next year. There is a wonderful variation even now in the young plants; no two seem to be alike in foliage, and either the shape or tint is different in most of them. We hope to get some good varieties from these. The seed parent was Dipladenia profusa, crossed with pollen of D. Brearleyana. Judging from present appearances, we shall get all the forms known in gardens from this lot of plants. Dipladenias are natives of Brazil. There are but two that are pink and regarded as species. All the others, more than a dozen in number, are of garden origin. The great value of these plants lies in the fact that flowers are produced from the same stems for months in succession. We have picked flowers in June, and as late as October from the same stem, and this free-flowering habit makes them desirable where a brilliant climber for the greenhouse is required. They will stand well in winter in a temperature of fifty degrees, and require far less heat than was generally supposed necessary by the older cultivators. This may account for the unpopularity of the genus at the present time. We grow them in Fern-root alone. Loamy soil is liable to become sour and inert, and the plants speedily die when this is the case. South Lancaster MA, E. O. O.

25 September 1895
Solanum Wendlandi
One of the most promising novelties of recent introduction is this climber, which, although not a new plant, strictly speaking, has only recently been made available to cultivators on this side of the Atlantic. There is an excellent figure of it in The Garden, February 1st, I890, the color of the flowers being, perhaps, a little darker than is the case with plants grown here under a stronger sun. No climbing plant of my acquaintance will cover so much space in a short time as this one. Our plant was a small one, set out in a bench in a greenhouse, and in six weeks covered as many feet each way with a strong growth of rich, dark foliage and many large heads of flowers, some of these over a foot in diameter. The individual flowers open in succession until all have expanded, so that each head of bloom is a thing of beauty for at least a month. The flowers are nearly two inches in diameter and of a pale lavender-blue. I saw it recently growing in the succulent house at Kew, where it was luxuriating in full sunshine and plenty of air, and it seems to me that there is a use for it as a summer climbing plant for outdoor Dlanting in this climate; of course, in warmer sections it should prove hardy, and it would then be a deciduous plant. Wherever this Solanum is used it must have a good rich soil to grow in, as it is a great feeder and cannot be treated too liberally. In the issue of The Garden referred to we are told that "Kew is indebted for this Solanum to Mr. Wendland, Director of the famous Botanic Gardens at Herrenhausen, who sent a plant of it in I882, with the information that it came from the colder regions of Costa Rica." As Director Wendland went to Central America in I858-59 on a botanical mission, it is to be presumed that he brought home this among the many plants collected, and the wonder is that it has remained so long hidden from cultivators; there seems to be no difficulty in propagating it from cuttings made of the least succulent shoots, and we may soon see it largely used as a decorative plant. It should be noted that the flowers close up at nightfall. This defect or peculiarity hinders their use in a cut state somewhat, but it will not be considered much of a detraction from the value of the plant if used as a climber, either indoors or out in the warm months. South Lancaster MA, E. 0. Orpet. [In many of the gardens of San Diego and Santa Barbara, California, Solanum Wendlandi is now well established, growing to the height of thirty or forty feet, and displaying during a large part of the year its clusters of beautiful flowers.-ED.]

2 October 1895
Hypericum Moserianum
All things considered, this appears to be the most desirable of the hardy Hypericums for garden culture, and there is little reason to doubt its hardiness, although it has not been tested here in a large way as yet. A large circular bed at Kew, in the decorative part of the grounds, was one of the principal features there this summer, and for massing in this way it is difficult to imagine anything more striking. The large yellow flowers are produced in great profusion for a long period, with a setting of healthy dark-green foliage below. As has already been explained in GARDEN AND FOREST, this plant is a garden hybrid between Hypericum patulum and H. calycinum, the old St. John's Wort, and in general appearance it resembles the latter, but has lost the coarseness that used to characterize that plant and relegate it to waste corners of the garden where nothing else would grow. At St. Albans, Messrs. Sander have a variegated sport of H. Moserianum called Tricolor, which will be highly prized when it is disseminated by all who admire plants with foliage of varied colors. The leaves of this plant are bright pink, white and green, and it has a vigor equal to that of the parent plant, with which it is identical, except for the color of the leaves. These should not burn in this climate as many highly colored sports are apt to do, since the texture is thick, almost leathery, and this ought to insure it against injury even in the hottest seasons. The happy idea of planting this Hypericum in masses, as carried out at Kew, is worthy of imitation, as individual plants, either of the type or of the sport, are quite inferior in effect to large groups. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

23 October 1895
Lilies
The past season has been more than usually favorable for Lilies in this part of the country. Copious showers at frequent intervals were the rule all the time they were growing, and the long, protracted dry period did not come until the bulbs were mature and beyond injury. For the best success Lilies must be planted in a cool moist soil that never becomes hot or dry, and preference should be given for a spot that is shaded by other growth, either that of deciduous shrubs or broad-leaved evergreens, in which positions most of the hardy kinds flourish for an indefinite period. It has been emphasized before in the columns of GARDEN AND FOREST that fall-planting is always best; there appears to be no exception to this rule, and the reason is plain. If a Lily-bulb be examined at any time soon after flowering it will be seen to have made a quantity of new roots from the base of the bulb, strong, vigorous feeders, that will continue to grow all winter in a favorable place, and when spring comes, and with it the flower-shoot, there is plenty of root-action to give it impetus until the thick matted whorls of roots are emitted from the lower part of the stem itself; these are made to give strength to the plant to produce flowers, and to build up the bulb again after it has made its supreme effort the alternating set of roots come again from the base. It has been part of my experience to unpack large quantities of Lilies just as they arrive from Japan, where the system of packing is a good one, each bulb being placed in a piece of wet clay, which is rolled round the bulb, then dried, and these are placed in the cases, and the intervening space filled up with dry clay soil. If all is perfectly dry, and kept so, root-action is entirely suspended; but if, as sometimes happens, moisture is admitted from some cause or other, the whole mass of soil will become matted with roots, and on their arrival here it is quite difficult to separate the bulbs. Japan Lilies arrive usually just a little too late for planting in the open ground in this section, and, perhaps, in most others, so that dealers keep them over and make them a part of their spring trade; but it would be preferable always to get them as soon as they arrive, and pot them up, placing the pots in a frost-proof cellar until they start in spring, when they can be planted out when the ground is favorable.
Complaints have been frequent lately that Lilium auratum does poorly even the first season after importation; this seems to be due wholly to spring-planting, for if the shoots appear it is often only to dwindle away or become ill-formed, showing clearly that there is no adequate root-action to second the efforts of the bulbs. If these were obtained on their arrival in November and planted in good rich soil in six-inch pots, we should hear much less of poor results the first year. After this, L. auratum seldom makes a strong growth; at least, I have yet to see a planting that has stood the test of years. Some plants that have been reported as flourishing for a term of years have proved to be the broad-leaved form, L. auratum platyphyllum, that seems to have traces of L. speciosum in it, and has inherited the vigor of that species. This plant is also known as L. auratum macranthum from the size of its flowers, which are sometimes over twelve inches in width. There is also an unspotted variety of this called Virginale. It would be well if Japanese cultivators gradually grew this variety to the exclusion of the typical one, for with their system of culture it ought not to take long to get up a large stock. The cost of the variety is now two-thirds more than that of the typical bulb, but once set out there is no need to renew them, for the plants increase and grow better from year to year.
For the past ten weeks we have had a fine show of Lilium speciosum for decorative purposes, and the plants would have lasted two weeks longer but for the sharp frosts of the past week. All the forms of this Lily are well adapted for growing in pots, or if larger specimens are desired, wooden tubs or boxes may be made for them and painted green. Southern cypress is here no more expensive than good pine, and lasts very much longer, so that we are using it for all indoor work now. The Speciosum group is admirably adapted to this method of culture, and it affords alone such variety that it makes others undesirable at the same period. The kind we have always regarded as the best dark form is known in trade-lists as Melpomene. This is a native of Japan, and in no way connected with the kind raised by the late C. M. Hovey, of Boston, which was a hybrid between L. auraturn and L. speciosum. It is possible that the same name has been applied to two kinds, the former not now being in cultivation. As we get it from Japan, this Lily is most vigorous, the flowers are of darkest crimson, heavily spotted, with pure white margin, the flower-stalks being red. There is another variety called Roseum that has green stems, with lighter-colored blooms, and is the next best-colored variety. The variety sent annually from Holland is quite inferior to those we get from Japan in these days, as the Dutch growers seem to keep on multiplying the kind first sent them, and the bulbs are never as large as those from Japan, nor is the growth as strong. Of white forms, the one sold sometimes as Album praecox, or Kraetzeri, is the best of all, being pure white, with dark brown anthers. Among them, however, at flowering time we notice at times plants of the variety known as Album novum, with anthers of light golden-yellow color, which is a constant character. These four are the best of the varieties of L. speciosum, and there are about a dozen altogether offered in lists. Rich soil is essential for these Lilies when planted in pots or boxes, and it is well to add plenty of bone-meal to what would be regarded as a soil good for Roses. The effect of the bone is lasting, and when repotting directly after the flowers are over each year it is not desirable to disturb the mass of roots, but simply to shift them on into larger pots, so that the full benefit of the bone will be appropriated. Liquid stimulants are also given about flowering-time, for the old theory that manure in any form is injurious to Lilies has been exploded. They are, in fact, great feeders, and need an abundance of good stimulants to get them to their best year after year. In order to have them for a long period we store them all in the cellar after they have been potted, and they are brought out in batches as they start in spring, so that we get about six weeks' difference between the flowering-time of the first and last lots.
A good early Lily, and one that might be had at Easter-time in pots, is Lilium pomponium verum, the bright scarlet Turks'cap fragrant Lily. The name verum is of catalogue origin, and is used to distinguish the red from the yellow form, L. Pyrenaicum, which is inferior as a garden plant and is of short duration in cultivation, while the scarlet form is in all respects a good Lily; it is the first to bloom outdoors in early summer, and will thrive in sandy soil. It resembles very much the Siberian L. tenuifolium, but the flowers are from ten to twelve on a stem. It is a native of the south of France, and usually comes with the L. candidum early in autumn. There is a difficulty in obtaining this Lily in quantity now from dealers here at least, such has been our experience lately; but it should become better known than it is, as it is in every way a better garden plant than the L. tenuifolium, so much lauded of recent years. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

6 November 1895
Cattleya labiata
Very few Orchids in cultivation have come so near fulfilling all the claims made for them by introducers as this one, the type plant on which the genus was founded by Lindley soon after its first introduction in 1818. Its subsequent history, too, has added much to the interest it originally excited. Its total disappearance from the original districts from which it was introduced, the casual arrival of a few plants at various times from obscure sources, the futile efforts so long made to reintroduce it, and lastly its reappearance under the name of Cattleya Warocqueana from a province nearly five hundred miles distant from Rio, where it was first seen, all seem more like products of imagination than like reality. The supply of plants seems almost inexhaustible, judging from the number that have already found their way into cultivation from Pernambuco during the last four or five years. The benefits to horticulture are scarcely to be calculated, as this Cattleya flowers at a time when so few other plants are in bloom. The Orchid-houses now are transformed into a mass of gorgeous coloring that is not excelled by the display in early spring, when the other forms of C. labiata are at their best.
To the cultivator, perhaps, the most pleasing fact connected with this Cattleya is the ease with which it can be grown. Many other Cattleyas are of easy culture, but the best cultural skill has failed to keep them in collections for an extended period. C. labiata seems to furnish an exception to this rule. At the time of its reintroduction there were plants in gardens that had been cultivated for twenty-five years, according to the record, and possibly some of the first plants introduced are still living. They had no storehouse in the way of back bulbs made in their native country to draw upon for their supply of vigor, but were growing and flowering freely under the system of treatment that is now adopted by the best growers. We have thus the assurance that C. labiata is not only a free grower, but has the crowning merit of longevity. It may now be bought as cheaply as any other Cattleya, while five years ago it was worth its weight in gold and the supply was meagre. It was formerly used to a necessarily limited extent for hybridizing purposes, but wherever it was so used its influence was potent for good. Some of the best crosses ever made have this plant for one of the parents. All who wish can now have a plentiful supply and make a free use of it, and the result will surely be for the common good.
We now have more of these Cattleyas than of any other sort. Their journey from their native place was a severe ordeal, since they traveled from Brazil to London, and thence to New York to the salesrooms. Many looked almost hopeless, but heat and a genial moisture works wonders under our clear skies, and pieces, with not more than two bulbs when they came, are now flowering, in many cases giving four flowers from the one bulb. Established plants frequently produce five flowers on one stem, and I have seen, in one instance, six flowers on the stem, all of good size and high color.
There is as much variation among plants of this variety as among any other, in that no two are alike, and each flower has its distinctive characters. As yet there is a very small percentage of white forms, and they are evidently not so numerous as we were led at first to believe they would be. Neither is there such radical variation as among plants of Cattleya Trianae and other kinds, but there is a much smaller number of inferior varieties than in any other Cattleya, and I have yet to see one variety that has not some merit.
This Cattleya belongs to the section that flowers directly on the completion of the current year's growth. There is no apparent rest before flowering, and but a slight cessation after, for we find that the most active rooting season is just after the strain of flowering. The plants at once recuperate themselves, so it would be folly to dry them at the roots at this time. In newly established pieces there is always a tendency to make a growth out of season. We have many now that are doing so, but after a year or two this tendency disappears, and they get into a regular habit and adapt themselves to our seasons, which are different from their own in Brazil. There no rain falls for six months, but the night dews must be heavy, or the plants would not be found there. The cultivation of this Cattleya is similar to that required by other members of the same group. After repeated trials we have given up using moss with the fern-root for potting material. There is no advantage from its use, and it too often brings in snails and slugs. It causes the other portion of the compost to sour and hastens its decay, and finally causes the decay of the roots of the plant. If good fibrous Osmunda-roots are used as soon as possible after they are gathered, this potting material should keep in sound condition four or five years. The roots will remain healthy if perforated pots or pans are used. We have given up the use of baskets for Cattleyas. In the first place they are costly if made of cedar-wood; and to take out a plant that is well and firmly fixed in a wooden basket causes so serious a check that it often takes a season or two for the plant to recover. Perforated pans can be easily obtained, and cost about as many cents as the plants are worth dollars. They are readily broken when it is necessary to give a plant a shift without any material damage to the roots if the plant is well watered a day or two before. If shifted at the proper time, when root action is commencing, there will be no shrinkage of the bulbs whatever. For the small-growing Cattleyas and Lalias, such as C. Walkeriana, L. praestans and L. Dayana, we take a square block of fern-root as it is sawn off and peg the small pieces on, suspending this in the usual way. It is amazing how they thrive. C. Walkeriana has made bulbs that far exceed in size any made in its native country, and is now showing for flower freely. To the close observer there is much to be learned in matters of detail; while these are often small in themselves, they go to make up the difference between failure and success. There is an all-absorbing interest in the purchase of dried-up pieces as they come from their native woods and in watching them expand as heat and moisture are supplied. But the greatest interest is at flowering time, when the buds are eagerly watched as they develop. They are oftentimes white until after the first day of opening, when the tinge of pink is almost sure to appear, for true white ones are very rare. Some of these rare white flowers are described as being so beautiful that the possibility of securing flowers of this color is all the more fascinating. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

20 November 1895
A Few Novelties
Scabiosa Caucasica alba
This is one of the most recent novelties sent us for trial, and it is a white counterpart of the type. It is white, too, without any shading of blue in the flower, but it is in no way an improvement on the original. The principal charm of the older plant is its rare shade of lavender-blue and its free-flowering propensity, but the white variety seems to lack vigor as well as color, and it is a question if it ever becomes popular.
Saintpaulia ionantha
It is not often that we are privileged to try a genuine new plant that has so few characteristics in common with others in cultivation, and we are much pleased with this pretty little Gesneriad from South Africa. That it is new is evinced by the fact that a new genus had to be made for it, there being no other into which it would fit, and the name, contrary to expectations, seems as if it will stand the test of time; it is made to commemorate Monsieur de St. Paul Hillaire, who sent it from South Africa to his father, who later distributed it. Our plants were raised from seed sown early last year, and we obtained about fifty plants from a packet. The seeds are small, similar to those of the Gloxinia, and require the same treatment after sowing. We started to treat the plants similarly when growing, but soon found that they liked a cool house with shade from strong sunshine, and when they were moved into four-inch pots they began to bloom about July, and have continued to do so ever since without intermission. The foliage is at times almost hidden by the quantities of pretty violet-blue blossoms, and there are still no signs of their ceasing. There are no tubers to the Saintpaulia, though we rather expected there would be, on account of the close relationship of the plant to a tuber-bearing family like the Gesneriads. However, this plant will root readily from leaf-cuttings, and, after seed, this seems the most simple way to propagate it.
Spiraea Anthony Waterer
A colored figure of this novelty was published in the London Garden for January, 1894, which showed what an acquisition the plant would be if only the color of the flowers were as good as the plate represented them. Spiraea Anthony Waterer is a sport from S. Bumalda, which is itself a variety of S. Japonica, a dwarf-growing shrubby Japanese species, growing about two feet high and having flat or cymose heads of beautiful deep rose-colored flowers. As I saw these in August last at Mr. Waterer's nursery, where it originated, the color was certainly as good as the colored figure, and there can be no question that we shall soon see it as frequently in gardens as the hardy Hydrangeas when it is better known to planters. It is a sport, or bud variation, and was shown first in 1891 and received an award of merit under the name of Beauty of Knap Hill, but later, in 1893, under the above name, it received the additional honor of a first-class certificate from the highest horticultural tribunal in England, and if the color stands the hot sun here and keeps as bright as it does in the gardens of the introducer, it will be a valuable flowering shrub for July, August and September, for it has an extended flowering period. [Spiraea Anthony Waterer flowered this year for the first time in the United States. See page 315 of the current volume.-ED.]
Weigelia Eva Rathke
This may be described as a perpetualflowering Weigelia, producing clusters of bright cherry-red flowers with more or less profusion all through the summer. I saw it in August with quite a show of bloom, and shrubs that flower at that time are not common, but there was a reasonable promise of bloom for the rest of the summer, to judge from the unopened buds, and I was assured that it was as good as its raisers claimed in this respect. South Lancaster MA, E.O. Orpet.

27 November 1895
The Lily Melpomene
To the Editor of GARDEN AND FOREST: Sir, Mr. Allen has done well to call attention to the error that crept in in my notes on Lilies in a recent issue of GARDEN AND FOREST. He is quite right in stating that this Lily is not of hybrid origin, but merely a seed variation from L. speciosum. I had in mind when writing L. Parkmanni, and so the two were mixed mentally. Can any one tell where the true Melpomene of Hovey can be obtained? It does not seem to be in any lists which I have seen, and I have never known it but by repute. L. Parkmanni, I fear, we shall never see again in gardens; the whole stock was purchased from Parkman by an English firm, and I saw the whole stock with them this summer, and they assured me that it was impossible either to propagate it or make it grow in any situation, and it was dwindling away visibly, only a few remaining to mark the spot where it was planted. There seems to have been a preponderance of the blood of L. auratum in the hybrid, or, at any rate, it has inherited this fatal characteristic of that species, and the place that knew it will shortly know it no more. It is a pity that this, one of the reminders of a man of genius, should thus perish, and so soon, but we are fortunate in having other plants, like the Pyrus and the Poppy, which bear his name. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

4 December 1895
Euphorbia (Poinsettia) pulcherrima
This beautiful Mexican shrub is well known as one of the best decorative plants for winter use, especially at this season when there is a dearth of bright color after the Chrysanthemums are gone. The old name is the one by which thle plant is generally known in gardens, and since it has become fast-rooted in garden literature Poinsettia will continue to be the common name of the plant.
In Mexico, of which country this Euphorbia is a native, it forms huge bushes or shrubs that are a mass of brilliant color at the festive season, and so also in Florida, where it is cultivated frequently. After a frost such as they experienced last winter, the plants are killed down to the ground, although they generally spring up again with returning warmth. There are two well-marked varieties of the Poinsettia that are cultivated; one has white bracts with a suffusion of green and is useful by contrast with the type, and the other is called the double form, owing to its having a double row of scarlet bracts instead of the single whorl. Both of these are more delicate in constitution than the parent, and are more liable to lose the lower leaves when approaching the flowering period, and this detracts from their value as decorative plants. We usually manage to have Poinsettias in full bloom at Thanksgiving time every year, and from then onward until after New Year we have a bright show of color for house decoration, for the dinner-table or for vases. Complaints are often heard that the bracts do not last after they are cut from the plants; this is due to the loss of sap and can be easily remedied by having a pail of boiling water ready when they are cut in which to steep the cut parts' immediately and before the loss of sap takes place. Searing the cut with a hot iron acts in the same way, but we use hot water, an old plan not so well known as it should be. For church decoration these plants are very effective and appropriate at the holiday season, but florists do not care to use them if they do not keep fresh.
After the flowers are cut the plants must be kept dry for the rest of the winter, and when there are signs of returning growth in May or June they may be cut down close to the soil, leaving only a joint or two, and these will soon start. They may then be repotted and kept outdoors all summer until cool nights arrive at the end of August. They are very sensitive to cold, and will show the effects of a cool night more quickly than almost any other plant; hence the necessity of getting them under cover first of all plants, giving them an airy house at first to prevent a weak growth, and when the heads of bracts show, an occasional watering with some stimulant will greatly help to develop large heads. We have had them twenty-two inches across, but when as large as this they are not effective for general decorative uses.
Poinsettias are easily propagated by making hardwood cuttings of two or three joints of the ripened wood and placing them in sand; these are preferable to cuttings made from soft, succulent shoots, though even the young shoots root freely if taken off after the plants have been exposed to the sun and air outdoors from the time they showed signs of starting into growth. A good heavy loamy soil is best for them at every stage of growth, and they will thrive well in one that suits Roses. Care should be taken to secure perfect drainage in the pots. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

25 December 1895
Hybrid Perpetual Roses
After the Chrysanthemum season is past there is generally space in the greenhouses for other plants that have been stored in cold frames or other convenient places, and we now place the first lots of hybrid Roses in a warmth of forty-five to fifty degrees to start them into gentle root-action. There is not much gain by putting them in early. December is a good time if flowers are wanted in March, and it seems impossible to have good hybrids too early. We plant in deep boxes in preference to pots. The plants remain in the boxes during the whole year and there is no check to them at any time. The only time when the roots are disturbed is when the boxes decay. New soil should be added and a slight top dressing given each spring after the plants are well started. This treatment, with liberal supplies of stimulants in a liquid form, will sustain the plants in vigor.
No hybrid Rose is so satisfactory for forcing as Ulrich Brunner for crimson. The noble foliage is not equaled by that of any other Rose, and it will stand the strain of early forcing for an indefinite period. We have plants that have been grown in this way for five successive years, and they are again in the greenhouse as good as ever. Gustave Piganeau, a newer kind, has proved weak, and it rarely makes strong enough growth to warrant its early forcing. The same may be said of Susanne Marie Rodocanachi, sent out to excel the Ulrich Brunner. Thus far it has failed to equal the older sort; the color is brighter and the foliage good, but it has also a somewhat weak constitution. Marchioness of Londonderry is a promising new early forcing variety; it is as near to white in color as hybrids come, there being just a tinge of flesh-pink in the centre of the blooms. The flowers are of the largest size, on stout stems, with foliage of the same texture and deep color as Ulrich Brunner, and it is also almost thornless. It seems to be one of the most meritorious of new Roses and belongs to a class that is all too scarce, namely, hybrids of delicate tints approaching to white. Clio is another of this class, but growers say that it also is of a delicate constitution and not desirable for early flowering, but as it is grown by the English growers it would seem not to be delicate. Another season will, perhaps, decide the matter.
Mrs. R. G. Sharman Crawford is one of the newest Roses with a good reputation for forcing. It is also distinct from all others in color, a deep rosy pink, the outer petals shaded with pale flesh and merging into white at the base. It has been one of the sensational varieties of recent years, and will prove, it is hoped, good for indoor work. Captain Hayward is another sort not so well known as it deserves, a bright carmine-crimson of superb form and sweetly scented, and will make a good forcing Rose as far as can now be judged.
To those who cannot devote an entire house to early hybrid Roses during the whole year, there is an easy way to get good flowers quite as early and of equal perfection by planting in boxes at least six inches deep and of length to suit the benches, or long enough to plant four plants lengthwise and two deep. We get two crops of flowers by this method each spring indoors, and a considerable number of flowers during the summer and fall when the boxes are set out-of-doors to make their growth. They need comparatively little water; a sprinkling overhead with the hose serves to keep them both clean and moist, and in the fall the boxes are set on their sides to keep the plants from fall rains and to help mature the wood, which is at this time of a deep mahogany color with prominent buds for next season's bloom. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

29 January 1896
Cultural Notes on Orchids
The close observer of this class of plants, whether a cultivator or a plant physiologist, cannot fail to remark that there are certain periods of rest and activity that are well marked by the plant itself. Sometimes these periods do not conform to our seasons, but, for the most part, the plants adapt themselves to the changed conditions under which they are placed, and respond to a rational system of treatment. It often puzzles the grower to know what to do with a plant that has apparently made its growth for the season early in the fall months and then makes another start, the later growth having to finish up during our winter months under adverse conditions as to light and air, the two most potent factors after warmth and moisture. This is frequently the case with newly established plants which have not quite adapted themselves to the changed seasons. Sometimes it occurs in the case of well-grown plants that have been in a collection, perhaps, for years. We have come to the conclusion that to try and retard this tendency by keeping the plants overdry at the roots is to cripple seriously latent energies; to place them in a warmer temperature with more moisture to encourage this growth results in throwing the whole mechanism of the plant out of gear. We have found it best to ignore the fact that anything abnormal is going on and to let nature rectify its own error, if error it be. Often this seems to be merely a safety valve for the escape of a superabundance of vigor, for, excepting the newly established plants, this peculiarity is confined to plants that are the most robust.
European cultivators, to whom we have been indebted hitherto for our works of reference on this subject, have laid great stress on the ripening up of growths by withholding moisture, but, aside from the fact that this system is not practicable here, owing to the greater amount of sun we get and the much larger amount of artificial heat required to maintain the proper temperature for the plants. All these conditions tend to exhaust the store of moisture, which in the case of a Cattleya bulb, whether old or new, averages over ninety per cent. Aside from these facts, the most advanced cultivators in Europe are beginning to see the fallacy of this system and to teach a more rational treatment.
It is also easily seen by the interested student that there are times when a plant is putting forth new efforts in the way of a bunch of young live roots from the base of the last-made growth. Often this is by way of fortifying itself for the crowning effort of producing flowers, and sometimes of recuperation afterward. In either case it will be found good practice to take advantage of these signs and to give any encouragement possible, such as new material and a larger pot if this is deemed necessary, remembering that decayed inert matter about epiphytal Orchids is death to roots, whether young or old. Care should be taken to remove every particle of decay by directing a jet of water on the mass before placing in new material. It would have been considered bad treatment by the authors of the reference-books to repot a Cattleya at the approach of the dull winter months, but it will be found here in practice that any day of the year is a good time, provided the plant shows signs of renewed activity at the roots, a sure index that will never betray either the plant or the cultivator.
Cypripediums are to be regarded more as terrestrial plants. They will take water freely all the year, and may be repotted at almost any time. This is a good time, as the roots are, for the most part, dormant, or have but few growing tips, and these are not so easily injured as the brittle white roots of the epiphytes. If a Cypripedium holds tenaciously to the pot in which it is, as is often the case with older plants of C. insigne and its hybrids, it is well to soak the roots in water the day before potting, and, if it is necessary, to break the pot to liberate the roots. The broken parts will easily separate when charged with moisture, and this is true of Cattleyas and other genera. It is not economical to spare the pot when the contents represent, possibly, as many dollars as the pot does cents. For such Orchids as require a quantity of water at all seasons it is safe to use sphagnum-moss liberally in the potting material. Cypripediums and Odontoglossums belong to this class. Dendrobiums, we find, do well in moss alone, for it can be easily washed out each year and new living moss added, but for Cattleyas we have for several years used no moss, and only the best grade of Osmunda-root. The moss, we find, only hastens the decay of the fibre, and when the latter is used alone there is no danger from overwatering, and the compost is well aerated at all times, a condition favorable to the development of good live roots, apparently the basis of vigor and success.
Much can be done to render the atmosphere agreeable to the occupants of our plant houses besides the ordinary applications of moisture on the paths. An occasional damping down with some liquid stimulant is desirable, and we have found that a minute proportion of sulphate of ammonia in the water has a beneficial effect, giving a healthy green color to the foliage. A quantity of Oak leaves brought in twice a year and placed under the centre benches helps to give off ammonia. These should be well treated with air-slacked lime to prevent snails and other insects from coming forth, but I am told that the lime would help to impoverish the supply of carbonic acid gas, and in this way not be a benefit, although liberating the ammonia contained in the decaying leaves. Fresh air, as often as available, is one of the chief essentials to keeping a healthy atmosphere. This is not easy when the temperature is far below the freezing point outdoors, but a system of ventilators near the heating pipes makes it easy to warm the air as it comes into the house. Even in hot weather this is the better way to change the air in preference to opening wide the top ventilators and letting out all of the carefully balanced moisture-laden atmosphere we have been at so much trouble to prepare. Greenhouses are seldom constructed with openings in the brick-work for ventilation, but this is most essential for successful culture and should be more insisted upon than it is. Water also that is taken from the supply-pipes direct is far too cold in winter for spraying or watering. Here it averages forty-five degrees in the winter months, and it is not well to use it for spraying a house at from seventy to eighty degrees. We have in part overcome this difficulty by placing on the warmest flow-pipes a cylinder holding sixty gallons, and taking the water from this to the warm houses. The water is let in at the base of the cylinder and out at the top. and in this way we secure a supply of tepid water adequate to our needs at all times when fire heat is used.
White scale is the worst enemy the Orchid grower has to contend with; it comes on the plants as they are received from the woods, and increases at a rapid rate, but a fine jet of water, as from the Stott sprayer, will, if used with a good force, effectually rid the plants of this pest, and without the least injury to them.
In successful plant-culture it is the trifles that tell. Sometimes they are inappreciable to the cultivator himself and a puzzle to others, but more often they are wholly at the will of the careful student who avails himself of the signs given by the plants themselves. A system that is haphazard is likely to give results that correspond. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

12 February 1896
Amaryllis
Upon looking over the stock of mature bulbs of Amaryllis at this time I find that many need encouragement as the flower-spikes are just showing up. It is sometimes desirable to have them come on in succession, and in this case it is best not to repot all the bulbs now, but only those that are most advanced, starting the others later as they require. We have found, however, that it is not well to retard Amaryllis-bulbs to any great extent beyond their natural flowering time. Last year the display would have been of little value to us before May, and an attempt was made to keep them for this time, but the spikes received a check, and were not nearly so fine as if encouraged to come on steadily from the time they were potted. Indeed, many did not develop beyond the bud-stage. On the other hand, if started now and kept in moderate warmth until warm weather this early start will give the bulbs a long season of growth, and the foliage will be sufficiently matured on the arrival of frost in autumn to allow that the pots be put on their sides under the stages, or in some convenient place in the greenhouse of no special value for other plants. If the pots are stood on an earthen bottom after the leaves have died off it will be found that very little water will be needed during winter, as the pots will absorb enough moisture from the earth to keep the roots from becoming too dry. Amaryllis of the hybrid section, such as are generally grown, are almost truly deciduous; but a few roots are sure to remain in a living at this time, and the more there are the better will be the start made from this time on. The effort the plant is required to make in producing the large flowers is considerable, as may be easily seen by the shrunken condition of the bulbs that were plump and fat before starting to grow, and it takes them all summer to recuperate and lay a foundation for the following year. At potting-time it will be found that there are a number of young offsets clustered around the parent bulb. It is preferable to keep to a single bulb in a six or seven inch pot after the flowering size and strength has been attained, and these offsets may be planted around the edge of other pots to grow on separately. If space is limited, later on in early summer they may be planted out in the open ground, where they will make a good growth if carefully protected from frost, to which they are most susceptible both in spring and fall. Flowering-size bulbs may be planted in pots of large size, several in a pot, but I am of opinion that for decorative purposes they are more serviceable when dotted in among a groundwork of green, owing to their scant foliage. A setting of Adiantum cuneatum is especially useful for this purpose. Another reason why pots of a small size are to be preferred is because of the ease with which these can be stored in winter. They will stand on a very narrow margin next the walks under the benches, not too near the heating pipes. It will have much to do with the popularity of Amaryllis when it is realized how easy it is to store the pots when the benches are crowded with other occupants.
For potting material we use a good sound loam made rich with the addition of bone ground moderately fine. Bone-meal should not be used, this being apt to close the pores of the soil and prevent proper aeration, a most important point in the culture of all pot plants. To assist aeration we use coarse sand and charcoal dust, and if the loam is naturally heavy or retentive some leaf-mold or material from an old Mushroom bed to lighten it. Amaryllis have thick succulent roots and like a rich, free-rooting soil.
It is also desirable to place the pots where the soil contained in them will be at least as warm or a little warmer than the temperature of the structure in which they are. To accomplish this the great English growers place them in a gentle bottom-heat of some fermenting material until the flowers are developed. But this is not necessary if the pots are placed on a bench over the heating pipes, and some non-conducting material, as sand, put between the pots. A part of a propagating bench is as good a position as one could desire. The roots will start and grow without any check, and sometimes the quantity of bloom is doubled by this means.
Thrips are the one enemy to be avoided in Amaryllis culture, and their work is shown by the under sides of the foliage turning red in spots. A wash with any approved insecticide will banish them if followed up once or twice at intervals of a few days. No shade is needed at any time, except to prolong their beauty when the flowers expand, the Amaryllis being a native of south Africa and a sun-loving plant.
This is a good time to sow seeds of a good strain. These have a peculiar black envelope like tissue-paper. The germ is small in comparison with the envelope, and the whole is easily lost from overwatering before germination takes place. To avoid loss, the seeds should be pressed into the soil on edge when sowing them, covered lightly with very sandy soil and placed in a temperature of seventy degrees, Fahrenheit, until they are well up. Seedlings will be found to keep their foliage during winter until the flowering stage has been reached; this varies from two to three years. As soon as the plants are strong enough to bloom the leaves will die off each year in autumn. Young bulbs must, therefore, be given encouragement during winter and summer from their infancy until they show signs of maturity, and after that they must have an annual rest of four to five months. There are evergreen species of Amaryllis in cultivation that have been derived partly from A. aulica, which is evergreen, and from a packet of seed it is often noted that some plants are obtained whose leaves never die down. These are the exceptions, and must be treated accordingly, as an attempt to dry off the foliage will most likely result in no bloom the following year. South Lancaster MA, O. Orpet.

19 February 1896
Dipladenias
Each recurring season reminds us of the value of these Brazilian climbing plants for the greenhouse, and there is a possibility of their soon becoming much used for planting outdoors in summer, since there is every reason to believe that they will be as well adapted for this purpose as for indoor use. Full sunshine is indispensable and rain will not injure the blooms, and in a warm position, with light soil, they will be sure to succeed. We have a batch of seedlings from seed saved last year, and as some of the plants have already bloomed we look forward to seeing them all flower during the coming season. Seeds are not often produced in this genus, but I have personal knowledge of three instances where it has been secured and plants raised from it. It is also an easy matter to propagate Dipladenias from cuttings of one or two joints each, made from well-ripened growth. When rooted they must not be potted in material that will become impacted. We use nothing but fern-root fibre to grow them in. With this it is impossible to overwater the plants, and it holds enough moisture in suspension to satisfy their needs. We use manure-water when the plants are in active growth and bloom. Loam in the soil has been the cause of more failures than anything else. It is necessary to grow the plants in full sunshine, even in the hottest summer months, and plenty of water should be used to spray with, as insects are liable to increase rapidly if they once get a foothold. It used to be considered indispensable to keep Dipladenias in a warm house at all seasons, especially when at rest in winter; the temperature of the Rose-house in summer for daytime, and fifty degrees, Fahrenheit, during night in winter, is best suited to them. It is difficult to imagine a prettier sight than a low span-roofed house with the roof covered with Dipladenias. The sprays of bright pink flowers shade off to crimson as they get older, the same sprays blooming continually from May until November. The growth of Dipladenias is not so rampant as is that of most tropical climbers, and is easily kept within reasonable limits. Last summer Roses were grown successfully in the benches underneath, and there are positions in every greenhouse where these plants would do well. We grow D. profusa, D. amabilis and D. Brearleyana, all of which are good, the latter the richest-colored and largest-flowered of all. We cut the plants back at the close of the blooming period each winter, when they go to rest naturally, and keep them drier until they show signs of starting again at about this time. They are then repotted in pots or pans a size larger. At potting time it will be seen that these plants have large tuberous roots, not unlike Dahlia roots in shape, but more woody. These are the reservoirs of vitality and are easily injured, but if handled carefully there need be no check to the plants. Water should be applied with great care until active growth begins in the warm spring months. When the plants are grown in full exposure to the sun in an unshaded house, the pots containing the plants ought to be shaded by a layer of moss or other non-conducting material to prevent injury to the roots from the heat. We also put a layer of moss on the surface of the potting material in hot weather to show the condition as to moisture, and find this beneficial. South Lancaster ma, E. O. Orpet.

26 February 1896
Pentstemons
The old-fashioned border flowers are no longer so carefully tended as they once were by the specialists, and it is a rare thing now to find a good collection of Tulips, Auriculas, Carnations or Picotees. In the old days the number of plants in cultivation was small in comparison to what it is today; the limits of horticulture were circumscribed for those of moderate means, and the result was that these classes of plants were taken in hand by enthusiasts who became identified with one or more of each and made a close study of them, with the result that they were improved to the utmost limit, and there are no better kinds today than there were a generation ago. The old-time exhibitions have largely died out, too; many, if not most, of the plants formerly displayed it would be impossible to obtain now. This must not be considered a retrogression altogether, but rather an indication that gardening is too broad a subject to be restricted to exhibition limits, and border Carnations, Tulips, Auriculas and Pentstemons are grown now to be enjoyed in the garden instead of on the show board with the regulation frilled white paper collars round each bloom.
It is more especially of the Pentstemon that I wish to speak as I saw it at its best in English gardens last August. At Kew especially, in the public parks and everywhere in home gardens, large beds were devoted to them, and the colors were as brilliant as those of Gladioli, and with about the same range of colors, too, but with more elegantly shaped flowers. The flowers were as large and the spikes as tall as well-grown Foxgloves, and admirably adapted for house decoration when cut. The season of bloom, too, lasted for two months I was told, and it seemed there were few plants that could give such returns for so little trouble. When asking about the sorts I was told that they were in all cases seedlings raised from a sowing made early in the year and set out in summer, the plants being treated as annuals instead of perennials; in this way winter storing was dispensed with. Seed was saved from the best flowers each year for the display to follow. Now, it at once occurred to me that the progenitors of this race of garden Pentstemons are all north-western American plants, the dominating blood being that of Pentstemon Hartwegii, its brilliant scarlet being very evident, while the more sombre purples and blues were derived from P. Coboca and others. As now grown, however, they are distinct enough in themselves to lose any identity with any particular species.
There seems to be no reason why we cannot have beds of these fine border flowers as easily as they are obtained in Europe. There may be cultivators of Pentstemons here, but I have not seen them. Here we have made a start in the right direction by securing seeds from several sources and the plants are well up now; the results will be noted later in the summer, but there seems to be no reason to doubt that the experiment will be a success. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

25 March 1896
Garden Annuals
It is now generally admitted that for the best and most continuous display of flowers during the whole of the summer season annual plants are essential. Perennials can be relied on for early flowers before tender annuals can be even planted out, and they will also furnish a late fall display after the advent of frost. The most approved practice, therefore, is to so combine the two that there be no intermission, and this is not difficult if a little care in selection and a little foresight in planting be exercised. We have this week made such sowings of the earliest annuals as may be deemed necessary, and at a later date, say at the end of this month, the general sowing of all such seeds as are planted each season will be made, and this will be found a good time if a hot-bed or a greenhouse be at hand to place them in after being sown. The old-time plan of sowing in a hot-bed is not today superseded. There is no better place to obtain the proper conditions that insure even germination and a sturdy aftergrowth than a hot-bed of moderate heat if an inch or two of earth be spread over the fermenting materials to prevent an excess of steam. This is also a good place for plunging the pots or pans, but a warm greenhouse is most generally used where it can be commanded, although it is not at all essential.
For the sowing of all seeds it is well to compound the soil in such a way that it will neither become hard on the surface so as to prevent the young cotyledons from pushing through, nor dry out too quickly. No mistake is more fatal to successful germination than allowing the soil to become dry just as the seeds are about to sprout, and to avoid this we set the pans or pots altogether in a warm place and cover them with paper until germination takes place, when they are taken out as fast as the cotyledons are well developed and set apart in a lighter position; this covering will prevent too rapid drying, will also tend to guard against extremes of temperature, and is altogther the best way to save labor in watering and get the best returns for work and care. Soil for seed-sowing must always be made light in texture as well as weight by the addition of plenty of leaf-mold, and if the compost from a spent mushroom-bed is available it is well to add at least one-third of this, sifting the whole well, and after the seeds are sown covering them with soil that has passed through a sieve with a mesh no coarser than one-eighth of an inch. A sprinkling of sand over the surface of the top will prove a good index as to state of the soil as to moisture, as it is then possible to see at a glance if water is needed. These little details may seem frivolous, but are in themselves the secret of success in getting good returns from seeds that are either slow to germinate or of weak vitality.
It may be well to name a few of the annuals that we have found to fill all the requirements for display in the garden and to be at the same time available to cut for house decoration; and it may be added here that if a plant does not produce flowers that are fit for this latter use it is hardly worth while to grow it. There are so many plants now that are good for both purposes that we have a sufficiently long list of these alone to choose from ordinarily. Zinnias we regard as indispensable to even the smallest garden; they have done more toward filling the place of the scarlet Geranium than all the other forces together; they are easily raised from seed, and give a profuse and abundant bloom for at least three months; we use the tall and dwarf strains — a double row, one of each, makes a fine effect in a long border, or if used in the mixed borders they may be planted in groups where other plants are likely to die down early in the season, as sometimes happens with early-blooming perennials, and they will cover the ground and give a bright effect just when it is most needed, during the early fall months. Good Asters are as essential as Zinnias, but we here also prefer the tall kinds with long stems, such as those known locally as Boston Market, for early use, and the new branching kinds which are admirable later. There are so many strains of Aster now on the lists that it is perplexing to know just which to select, but it is safe to add some each of the old standard kinds from the Paeony and Victoria sections, for example, as these are as good as any for a display, and they also have a good length of stem.
There has been an amazing improvement of recent years in the Antirrhinums, and seed of good strains will produce flowers that would hardly be recognized as the old-time Snapdragon. They are continuous bloomers from the time they begin until after frost, and may be even taken up and put in the greenhouse for a winter crop if kept from flowering for a few weeks before lifting, when they will give a spring crop of bloom that is most acceptable. The annual Scabious are good, too, for cutting, and give a great profusion of bloom; these may be sown outdoors when the soil is warm and will do best in this way, but a few started now will give earlier flowers.
The new Japanese Ipomceas are well worth a trial if a good strain is secured, but there are some that are inferior, and this has brought into bad repute a most interesting novelty among summer flowers, one of the best of its kind for a number of years. The flowers are of almost all shades of blue, purple, crimson, pink and many other intermediate shades, all of silkiest lustre; many of them, too, are double, and the foliage is in many cases beautifully marbled or mottled with silvery white, or golden bronze. These Morning Glories are perennials, but are better raised from seeds each year, unless some specially good variety is worth keeping over in the greenhouse. The seeds are hard-shelled and need to be scratched through the outer shell with a knife and put in water for a few hours till they swell, and if planted then they will germinate in a day or two. These plants are useful for fences, piazzas, arbors and any other place where a climber of quick growth is desired for the summer months.
The Celosias are worth trying; in fact, they have been successfully tried in some places as summer annuals in the border. We hope to make trial of them more extensively this year. Though they have generally been grown in pots, they will do much better in the open ground if strong when set out, and the season of bloom is so long as to make them specially valuable in the border. Care should be taken to save the weak seedlings, as these often carry the best plumes, the strong vigorous growers often making no plumes worth the name even in pots where root-room is restricted. Last summer I saw the new Nemesia strumosa splendidly in bloom in Mr. Chamberlain's garden, at Manchester, and when well grown, as these were, there are few annuals so showy for a sunny position. They have been somewhat disappointing here, but this was evidently due to a failure to understand all their necessities. The seed must be sown in pots to insure germination, they are so small.
In a dry, sandy, poor soil, which must sometimes be occupied, there are a few annuals that will do better than in richer compost; indeed, I have failed altogether to flower the scarlet Salvia in the ordinary border, where they never stopped to bloom, but kept on growing until frost cut them off. In dry positions, however, where the soil is poor, they will produce a blaze of color, and are not to be despised as cut bloom for house decoration. Petunias of the improved strains are also well adapted to such soil, where they grow rapidly and flower profusely, and a margin of Portulacca will complete a pretty effect in a spot not easy to make beautiful under other treatment. With Sweet Peas, as with Asters, it is a difficult matter to select the kinds to grow from such a long list, but, given the colors that are desired, they should be planted as soon as the frost is out of the ground and it is possible to work it conveniently. We do not like to plant in the same place year after year, but always take out the soil to the depth of at least eighteen inches, placing at the bottom of the trenches good manure, filling up to within six inches of the top and then sowing the peas. It is then possible to add a little more earth later on at staking-time, and still leave a trench to pour on water when it is needed. They are very thirsty in the flowering-time, and we leave the hose running in the trench all night, to their great delight. The annual sales of Sweet Pea seeds have come to be one of the most remarkable features of modern horticulture. They are grown by the ton in California, and no better samples are to be found. There is no excuse for foreign-grown seeds, and, indeed, we hear little of them now, compared with what we heard a few years ago. Even English novelties are now sent to California, where they are grown to secure stock for selling. The climate is well adapted to them, and their cultivation has been reduced to a profitable system. I find that other seeds grown in California as well as Sweet Peas are well acclimated, and thrive better here than those of European origin do. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

1 April 1896
Caladiums
It is not surprising that bulbs and other tuberous-rooted plants occupy so prominent a place in decorative gardening, for without these there would be a great loss of decorative material. Plants which accumulate nutriment for another year in bulbous or tuberous roots can be stored away during their resting season in a very small compass, and the advantage of this is obvious. It is necessary to prepare each year for considerable summer decoration, and at the same time provide space in the greenhouses for the growing of cut flowers. No plants are more useful for summer decoration than the fancy-leaved Caladiums. There has been quite a revolution in this class of plants since their cultivation was taken up in Brazil by skilled operators under the best possible conditions. At the World's Fair in Chicago an education was afforded by the fine examples of Caladiums seen there, and which showed brilliant colors and excellent cultivation, the fine effect being obtained in but a few weeks and continuing throughout the season. The newer kinds, to that time practically unknown to us, were made familiar, and these are no more difficult to grow than the older kinds of less brilliant coloring. We have fairly tested this new Brazilian set of Caladiums for several seasons. The cost is reasonable, and they are very effective. A set to be found in English nurseries surpasses them in one respect, that of dwarf habit. I am told that this habit was brought about by crossing the larger highcolored varieties with the dwarf red variety Caladium minus erubescens that we grow as a companion to C. argyrites. The resulting progeny is superb in coloring, dwarf in habit, and excessively high in price at present, but some day we hope they will be obtainable. Among other things we have noticed that the varieties that have foliage of pale color and thin texture, often without a trace of green in their composition, are also very sensitive to sunlight, and practically of no value for general decoration such as we need for terrace or piazza, and are of little use except in the greenhouse, owing, perhaps, to the lack of chlorophyll. But as conservatory plants they are very beautiful; the transparency of the leaves, through which it is possible to read a newspaper, gives them interest in a collection. The varieties of higher color are all that one could desire, and there are, I think, as many as sixty in all. We had the set complete at the start, but many of them were practically identical, and more were undesirable owing to the dull tints, and the original number is reduced consequently. But the distinctive character of the collection is due to the influence of this Brazilian strain. It is to be desired for us that are not Portuguese scholars that the raiser in future give to his infants names that could be pronounced by an Anglo-Saxon tongue. I shall not attempt to put the names in type here, for they can be seen at a glance in lists of Caladiums, and there is the consolation that the plants are at least as distinct as their nomenclature.
A few remarks about their cultivation to those who wish to try them: Caladiums are distinctly tropical, being found directly under the equator, and cannot be treated to too high a temperature as we understand this particular in greenhouse work. It is in the manner of resting the tubers that manv fail, but we always shake the tubers out of the pots in autumn and place them in the warmest part of the boiler-room, each kind being provided with a new label and placed in dry sand in small pots or in such as are large enough to accomodate the tubers. In this way a large number may be stored in small space without the loss of a single individual, care being taken a when they are shaken out to clean all decayed portions away and to rub on a little charcoal-dust if there is any sign of decay. Since we have taken the precaution to place a handful of sand under the tubers at potting-time they have almost entirely escaped from the rot that used to give a great deal of trouble at their bases. To be of the most use to us Caladiums must be started early in the season, so that they shall be well grown in the early summer months and the foliage well developed and in a condition to stand exposure at that season. We start them early in the year for this reason, and this makes it possible to store them away under the benches at the time in fall when all plants must be got under glass, and the space occupied by a collection of Caladiums is needed for winter-flowering plants. This early start, therefore, gives us a twofold advantage. But those who have not a warm house commanding at least a temperature of sixty-five at night had better wait until later in spring, when it is attainable, for a good brisk heat is necessary to get a free growth of large well-colored foliage. Caladiums like a light rich soil. We add a large proportion of spent mushroorn-bed material to a compost of leaf-mold and loam, made porous with plenty of sand, and later in the season, if necessary, liquid stimulant is given. The aim is to produce the greatest leaf-development, and, on the whole, it is easy to accomplish.
I am glad to find that there is an operator at work in Florida on this family of plants, and we have now in course of trial some two dozen or more varieties raised in that state, where they thrive outdoors with great vigor. It is not too much to expect that we may have in the near future a race of American Caladiums equal to those we have hitherto received from abroad. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

29 April 1896
Flower Garden Work
Spring has opened very late this season, and now, on the tenth of April, frost is still in the ground in many places. Outdoor work has been considerably retarded, but if steady warm weather sets in soon this will make a more prosperous year than early warmth followed by hard frosts.
It was feared that the losses from severe cold would be great owing to the low temperature early in the winter before much snow had fallen. This fear has proved well founded with the hardy Roses, at least, and many gaps will need filling up. This work should not be delayed longer than need be after the soil can be stirred, and dormant stock is the best to procure. We used to think that Roses on their own roots were best, but subsequent experience of the New England climate has disproved this, and there is no doubt that where a gardener is sufficiently intelligent to distinguish between the brier-shoots that will sometimes sprout from the stock, that the grafted or budded Rose is the most vigorous and the hardiest, and will produce better returns in the garden than Roses that are on their own roots. Another mistake often made is the planting of too many kinds in the hope of getting up a large collection of hardy varieties. Our experience has been that of the known kinds of reputed hardy Roses not more than one in ten is to be relied on year after year in this climate, and it is safer to use fewer kinds and plant more of them. Pruning is again reduced to a very simple operation this season. It consists in cutting out the dead portions and leaving the live ones, and this in most cases is too hard pruning to get the best returns.
The Narcissus border looks well and promises a good show of bloom soon. We feared that lack of protection had hurt these bulbs, but there is every prospect of as good a show as in former seasons of the kinds regarded as suitable for this climate. It is well to go over the beds and stir the soil up a little as soon as it is dried up sufficiently to close up the surface left open by frost. This will help to retain the moisture that is in the soil for future dry periods. If it is intended to use the blossoms for indoor decoration it is wise to put a slight mulch over the beds to prevent April showers from splashing the flowers with soil. This often happens, and a slight mulch saves the blooms from disfigurement.
Mixed herbaceous borders should be looked over now to see that none of the smaller growing plants have suffered from frost. It happens frequently that these are raised out of the ground by the action of frosts, and they will need to be replaced carefully and made firm. Mertensia Virginica has seeded freely here in the borders, and the young plants are often lifted out of the soil in this way. It is one of the prettiest of spring flowers of which too many cannot be had, but they need this attention at this season. Primula Sieboldii that are planted outside are covered in the fall as are the Polyanthus, and they then winter over well, but all coverings must now be removed to anticipate growth which will soon follow.
Beds of Lily-of-the-valley not covered with manure in the fall will be helped now by a covering of some good material, not too lumpy, so that the young shoots can come through freely. This will enable them to build up a strong growth for the next year's flowering. We always cover these plants in the fall, and the covering acts as a mulch as well as a fertilizer. It is not removed in spring, but left to enrich the plants permanently. It is surprising how the plants show their appreciation of this little attention. This is a good time to make a bed of the Lily-of-the-valley. The best Berlin pips or crowns should be procured and planted about eight inches apart each way in good soil in a position shady during the heat of the day, and they will be sure to give entire satisfaction in after years.
Any other planting in the mixed borders should be deferred until the plants already in place have made a little start, or some plants will be disturbed that should not be. After such herbaceous plants have made a little growth the root-action will go on with little check and will make a strong growth the coming year, provided the soil is well prepared beforehand. Plants that have been raised from seed with a view to transplanting in the garden must be well hardened off before setting out, as, though they may be perfectly hardy under normal conditions, they have been rendered as susceptible to cold as if they were of tropical origin and are as easily injured at this season. A few weeks in the cold frames, with plenty of air on warm days and nights, will make them sufficiently hardy to plant out in their permanent positions at the end of this month, or a little later in some localities. It is a part of each year's work at this time to look carefully through the borders to take out all self-sown seedlings that are not needed. These will come up in quantity all over the beds, and are usually weedy, poor variations from the type plants, so much so at times as to give rise to the suspicion that good forms of some garden plants revert to the original types. But more often it is because the better and weaker plant has been made yet weaker by seeding freely, and its place is soon taken by a host of its progeny that in many cases are worthless. Phlox, Aquilegias and Larkspurs are plants of this description, and seedlings should be rigidly excluded from the borders other than those in semi-wild places. Here they may be allowed to care for themselves, and it does not take long for them to revert to the original types if left to their own devices. The strongest survives, and in most instances it is the weediest. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet. [This article was written before the untimely warm wave of mid-April, and should have appeared last week. Its suggestions, however, are still seasonable.-ED.]

6 May 1896
Spring-flowering Plants
The recent exceptionally warm weather has brought into bloom most of the early spring flowers with magical rapidity, and in a week the face of nature was transformed from winter here to the bloom and beauty of spring. Fortunately, cooler days have followed without frosts to injure this growth, and there is promise of a favorable spring season. The past winter was exceptionally fatal as to plant-life, and many of the shrubs considered hardy have been injured sadly. Magnolia Soulangeana has all flower-buds killed, and many other of the smaller plants of various Magnolias have been severely killed back. I observed today the first flowers open on the plant of M. Kobus (Thurberii). This plant is quite an old one, and was presented to Dr. Thurber when it was named, but it has not bloomed till now. It is not one of the showiest species, but is a vigorous grower of compact habit and of brightest green in summer. The newer M. Watsoni has been killed to the ground. The plants were small, but were well established last year, and, indeed, it bore flowers last spring that were much admired, and it was considered a genuine acquisition to the list of garden shrubs. It may possibly prove hardy if protected in a sheltered position, and it would be of interest to learn how it has behaved in other localities.
Paeonia corallina and P. Wittmanniana are two of the rarer species of Paeony not often seen in cultivation, and belong to the very early-flowering type of which P. tenuifolia is the best known representative. Neither of the first named has flowered here before, owing, as we thought, to tenderness of the early shoots; the buds were to be seen, but they did not develop properly, but it would seem now that the failure was due to lack of flowering strength, for, now that the clumps are well established, they are both about to flower. Several species of Paeony are great additions to gardens when they are obtainable, but, for some reason, we do not often see them in lists, probably owing to the greater demand for the showy garden forms of P. herbacea, but those that flower so early in the year have a value of their own. The flower-buds of these are now showing color, while those of the garden forms are scarcely to be seen above ground.
In years past we have noted the beauty of Puschkinia Libanotica, and each year it is among the very first to open its blossoms in the outdoor garden, defying frost and snows, and only waiting for a few bright days to expand its pretty flowers. It is very similar to a Scilla, and might be easily taken for one, but the bells are of a very pale blue, almost white, with a distinct dark blue stripe down each division of the bell-shaped perianth. Here it is not only hardy, but seeds freely each year, and from a half dozen bulbs first planted we have now as many as fifty large and small. The seeds seem to grow freely where they fall, for they have never been collected or sown in the regular way, but with the non-disturbance of the soil by digging or otherwise we have quite a little colony of this pretty spring flower.
I think, also, that for the past three or four years the pretty Fritillaria aurea has been noted for its good ways, and the temptation is strong to speak of it again now; it is the only one of the Fritillaries that I know that will thrive in the outdoor garden in this latitude. F. Meleagris will exist for years, but not so as to give any pleasure to its possessor, and the Crown Imperials are very uncertain in their habits, but F. aurea has been perfectly happy here for the past three years. The color of the flowers is a bright yellow outside, checkered with black squares within in a very pretty fashion. It is also very easy to increase from the number of young bulbs formed round the older ones. The western F. pudica is also one of the prettiest of the native Fritillaries, but is too tender for this section to do well; it is a modest little flower with a charm all its own, but is best grown in pots indoors in winter.
There has always lingered a suspicion as to the absolute hardiness of the Eremurus in an open, much exposed location, and until last fall we have always given it a protection of straw, but by accident this was omitted last November, and many were the doubts as to the result. When spring came we had deep frost without snow for protection, and many things suffered in consequence, but not so the Eremuri, for they are coming up stronger than ever and seem to have enjoyed the cold on the whole. The two species we have are E. robustus and E. Himalayacus, but soon we hope to try more of them, the difficulty being to get them in good strong roots of the rarer kinds, the demand being apparently greater than the supply. There need be no more doubt as to the hardiness of these fine border plants.
A plant long known in gardens as Amaryllis Hallii here in New England proves to be Lycoris squamigera, and under the latter name has been recently made plentiful by importers of bulbs from the east. As A. Hallii it has been cultivated in a garden at New Bedford for many years, and was possibly brought there by some of the trading ships that used to start from that port, and as a hardy bulbous plant it has great merit. It is the only really hardy member of the genus that we can cultivate here, and there was a doubt as to whether the bulbs recently obtained were identical with the older ones long known here. I am glad to see that they have come through the winter without any harm, with no protection whatever, and are growing freely, though not large enough to bloom this season; there appears to be no doubt that we can depend on the two being identical and within easy reach of cultivators. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet. [Lycoris squamigera was originally brought from China by Dr. George R. Hall, of Bristol, Long Island, and was distributed as Amaryllis Hallii by the Messrs. Hovey, of Boston. The plant was described and figured in GARDEN AND FOREST, vol. iii., p. 176.-ED.]

20 May 1896
Flower Garden Notes
This is one of the most interesting parts of the year in the garden, even with the extreme heat and dryness of this particular season. April showers have this year been very rare and are sadly needed.
The show of Apple-blossoms at this time is the feature of the country where apples are grown in quantity, and as a flowering tree alone it has few equals. The flowering Crabs are, perhaps, quite as pleasing, with more variation of coloring, and for this reason are finding favor with planters. There is a set of some ten kinds in flower here. They are beautiful planted in a large crescent-shaped bed, the ground being covered with late-flowering Tulips, the Parrot, Gesneriana and Darwin varieties mixed. The combination of Tulips is extremely beautiful now, when the early border kinds are all past. A little later the Oriental Poppies that are planted between will come on and give a second display, and when the Tulips are dying down Zinnias will be planted over them for a late summer effect. We thus get four distinct displays from the same bed with only the annual planting of the Zinnias. This plan is, perhaps, adapted only to beds of large size, so that there is a mass of color in its season.
Lily-of-the-valley is now in full bloom, much earlier than usual, owing to the heat, but the flowers are not so fine as in some years, because of the lack of water. If care is taken to thin them out every three years or so it is surprising how much better they will grow than those forced under glass in winter, provided the best variety of crowns are planted, such as are used for culture under glass.
Hardy Primroses are not esteemed very highly, and it is a question if there are any species that are to be regarded as proof against the severity of our winters. With a little protection some will prove very satisfactory at this season. A few hundred of the garden Polyanthus, raised from seeds a year ago and grown all last summer in shade under the Elm-trees, are a beautiful show at present. All the gradations of color in yellows and reds, mixed together with none that clash, make a very pleasing effect in a shaded position. Last fall, just before frost-time, a covering of straw about six inches thick was placed over these plants and removed early this spring. This is all the care taken, besides seeing that plenty of moisture was provided during the growing period. Primula Sieboldii, the Japan Primrose, is now at its best, treated in the same way. We find this useful for cutting, the erect stiff stems being better than those of the Polyanthus when grown under the same conditions. It is deserving of much wider cultivation. I do not remember to have seen it elsewhere, and it is usually regarded as a tender spring-flowering plant, but is hardy enough to stand out over winter, with covering. The typical P. Sieboldii is a rich, deep rosy purple color and is the best variety to grow, though there are numerous other kinds, some called white. But there is not the purity of color one would expect, and the same remark applies to the many other varieties of P. Sieboldii in commerce, the type being still in advance of the "improved" varieties. There is, also a set of double Primroses, common in English gardens, the colors varying from rich deep red to lavender, yellow and pure white. We have never been able to get the red-flowering sort, but we have the other colors and grow them in quantities in frames for early spring flowers, treating them the same as Violets. They have proved as hardy as the Polyanthus during the past winter and quite as satisfactory in the open border, under the same treatment. These are true Primroses, having one flower only on each stem, this being the point in which they differ from the Polyanthus or many-flowered Primrose.
All the yellow-flowered Narcissus are past, and we have only the Poet's varieties left, but these are very beautiful now, planted in the grass under Apple-trees in an orchard. This is the proper place for the stellate-flowered kinds, without doubt. Not only are the rich borders unfitted to them, but the flowers to be seen at their best need a green setting such as the grass affords, and under trees the grass is thin and is allowed to grow until hay-time, when the Narcissus have about matured their foliage, and may be cut off without injury to the bulbs. All of the Poeticus section, also Barrii, Leedsii and incomnparabilis, are eminently adapted to this mode of culture, and I am not sure that some of the large yellow Trumpet kinds would not do better under this system, but this is a matter for further trial. Some Narcissi dwindle away and some thrive in rich soil. Those that disappear probably have good reason for doing so, and it is fair to assume that, provided they are hardy, it must be from uncongenial soil.
Mertensia Virginica has been beautiful for two weeks past, and is still as blue as the Myosotis. It is one of the best spring flowers we have, and as a companion for it may be recommended Corydalis nobilis, the noble Fumitory, a near relative to the Dicentras, with foliage similarly cut, and large clusters of flowers of bright yellow, with dark brown centres. It is a difficult plant to transplant, owing to the nature of:the rootstock. Any one who has moved roots of the old Bleedingheart will remember the half-decayed state of the thickened roots, and the same peculiarity applies to Corydalis nobilisi, so much so that it takes a year or two for the plants to fully recover from a removal. But it is a valuable plant for spring blooming and a fitting companion for Dicentra eximia, the best form of this being now in full bloom. It is one of the best native plants we have for the open border, though it comes from Tennessee and Georgia.
Trollius Europaeus and T. Asiaticus have proved so well adapted to this climate that a trial of the other cultivated sorts has been made, and a complete set of those grown in European gardens were obtained last year. These are now in bloom, with the exception of T. patulus and its white variety, the plants of which did not live. The double T. Japonicus is a real gain, owing to the brilliance of its orange-yellow color, and so is T. napellifolius, which is a fine large flower, but the improved garden forms sent are no better than, those raised here from seed of T. Europaeus and T. Asiaticus, and are not so well suited to our climate. It is desirable when a good form from seedling plants appears in the garden to save seed from it. Plants raised in this way often have exceptional value, and some of the best globe flowers we now have we secured by this means.
Paeonia Wittmanniana is now in flower. It comes in before P. tenuifolia, and has single cup-shaped, creamy white flowers, with abundant yellow anthers and traces of purple at the base of the cup. It is interesting as a species, and also on account of its early flowering season. P. tenuifolia will be in bloom in a day or two, and there are few more desirable garden plants than the early-flowering Paeonies, including the tree varieties, and they come at a season when there are no rosebugs to devour them. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

10 June 1896
Flower Garden Notes
The recent showers have made a great improvement in the borders and made it possible to plant out annuals to be added at this time for effects later in summer, when most of the perennials are past. This arrangement has, in past seasons, proved desirable for the best results during the entire season. Mixed borders are superseding herbaceous borders and include bulbs for the early spring. A border made up in this way will be interesting from April until November frosts.
The best feature of the garden now is the set of the more recent Japan Tree Paeonies. We have added twenty of these, and they are a great advance over the older ones, which are mostly shades of pink, and I suspect are in many instances nothing more than the stock used by the Japanese for grafting. The newer varieties are of all colors, from pure white to d.eep rose, and some are single, beautiful, large cup-shaped blossoms of purest coloring. They are a decided acquisition in the garden at this time, and, no doubt, will prove as hardy as the older varieties. It will, however, be safer to draw the earth about the stems in the fall for the first year or two, to avoid loss, before they are well established. I find that all of these plants are grafted, cleverly as usual by the Japanese gardeners, but they do not seem to have been wise in the selection of the stock; it shows decided tendencies to sprout from the roots. These sprouts would soon choke out the better scion if allowed to grow, and planters must use care that this does not occur. This is the only thing that can be said against these plants, and it may be remedied in later importations by'the use of some stock that is not so apt to send forth shoots from adventitious root-buds.
The hardy native Orchids are mostly intractable under cultivation, beautiful as they are when growing wild. They all need special care in the selection of positions in the garden if any success is to be had. Two of the Cypripediums are quite reliable, or at least we have found them so for the past five years, planted on the shady side of the Rhododendron beds. C. pubescens is now beautiful, and C. spectabile will follow later. The latter is the most lovely native Orchid, and few exotics of this genus can compare with it. It is all the more satisfactory to know that it can be cultivated in gardens in moist black soil, such as Rhododendrons delight in.
Baptisia exaltata is now fine. It is not a common plant, though B. australis is often seen in gardens. B. exaltata is much taller, with larger flower-spikes, and is altogether the better plant. It is a good companion to the Lupins that are now at their best. Lupinus polyphyllus gives a great variety in itself, the white form being in pleasing contrast with the various shades of blue and purple. I find it is necessary to save seeds of the best varieties and sow them. The parent plants seed freely, and these seeds germinate in the borders, but the self-sown plants deteriorate and the better varieties are soon lost in this way.
Many of the earlier-flowering plants are dying down now, and it is a good opportunity to plant near these such annuals as are desired to cover the space for the balance of the summer. The frequent showers will enable them soon to take root, and little care will then be needed in the borders, except to keep down weeds. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

17 June 1896
Orchid Notes
Through the exertions of collectors it is possible to have Orchids in flower abundantly throughout the entire year, and the succession is unbroken in a good representative collection. The durability of the flowers, both on the plants and when cut, makes them especially useful for decorative purposes. The flowers of some species are fugacious, but generally this peculiarity is, if not the result, at least the characteristic that accompanies a powerful odor. The kinds with no perceptible fragrance sometimes last for months in perfect condition.
One of the most useful species at this time is Miltonia vexillaria. It is a temperate-house plant, or one that requires a temperature that does not vary much during the whole year. Hence we grow it in winter in what would be termed a warm house, and in summer the plants are placed in the coolest place possible. While there is considerable variation of temperature between midwinter and midsummer, we have no plants that thrive better or give more satisfaction. Last season we had a plant, one bulb of which produced forty-one flowers, and we learned that this Orchid will sometimes attempt more than it can continue indefinitely, and that the flowers should be thinned so as not to tax the energies of the plant, M. vexillaria comes from a region characterized by daily rainfalls throughout the year. Even in the dry season there are mists and showers. While distributed over a wide range of latitude, from northern Colombia to Ecuador, its altitude is well defined and uniform wherever it occurs, mostly on the western slopes of the Cordilleras. It there has the benefit of the precipitation of moisture-laden winds from the Pacific. This moisture is an important item in the cultivation of the plants, for without it they will speedily be disfigured by thrips. Tobacco stems strewed about the pots will keep this pest away, and they are capital absorbents of moisture as well. After flowering, the plants take a short time to recuperate, and then start to grow in early autumn, when they should be repotted. They should be repotted each year, for owing to the great amount of water they require the compost would be injurious to the plants if allowed to remain more than one year. The growing period lasts throughout the winter, and care must be taken that no checks occur from want of water or insects, or their flowering will be affected unfavorably.
Each year at flowering time Cattleya Gaskelliana proves its superiority. I know of no other Cattleya which makes as fine specimens in so short a time; it does not deteriorate as do some other species. Plants that were purchased less than four years ago in six-inch pots are now in twelve and fourteen inch pans. The leading growths double in number each year, and if care is taken all will flower freely. The fact that some Cattleyas fail to flower at times may often be traced to excessive vigor and insufficient rest or maturing. If C. Gaskelliana for any reason fails to bloom, it is sure to start into a second growth, which must be encouraged liberally until finished. Our climate is apt to induce plants to make this second start, and English cultivators keep their plants dry to check the tendency. This would be ruinous here, as it would weaken the plants. If the plants are encouraged they will usually be well matured by winter, and will then flower well in summer. Our plants failed to bloom well at first, and we were told to put them out-of-doors after the flowering season was past. The coolest and most airy house was chosen instead, and the next and each succeeding year has proved the need of plenty of air for Orchids during the summer months. If C. gigas and C. Gaskelliana flower well this year it will take them so long to become strong and plump that they will not start into growth again before winter. It is an old idea that the greatest factor in making a tree fruitful is to have it bear a crop of fruit. Fruiting checks excessive vigor and immature ripening, and this is true of Orchids as of other plants.
The best time to pot Cattleyas is before they begin to make new roots or when they are making them. There are two well-marked divisions of the genus, from the cultivator's point of view-those that flower directly after growth is completed, as C. labiata, C. gigas, C. Gaskelliana and others; and those that rest for a time before flowering, as C. Trianae, C. Mendelli and C. Percivalliana. The last-named we repot directly after the flowers are cut, as the plants start to root at once. But with the other division the system is changed, for if we waited to repot until after flowering, many roots would be active and badly injured in the operation. So they are repotted as soon as signs of growth are observed. With C. labiata this often occurs in December. C. Gaskelliana is repotted in January, when the other kinds are also ready, so that all Cattleyas are potted during the winter months, when time can be best given for it to be properly done. Nothing but the best fibre from the roots of Osmunda cinnamomea is used. This material takes years to decompose if used alone, but if moss is added it speedily becomes sour and inert, and when the roots touch it they perish.
Many cultivators are taking up the most interesting work of hybridizing and raising seedlings. It is a fascinating experiment when success attends the work, and not without some profit if conducted on proper lines. There is still ample room for original research for all engaged in the work. It is simple enough until it comes to germinating the seeds. We find the best medium for this purpose is fern-fibre, as already stated, taking care to keep it in a condition bordering on saturation. If the minute barleycorn-like seeds become dry after sowing they will not change to the pleasing little green, pegtop-like, thalloid bodies that denote the first distinct stage of germination. These bodies are even more susceptible to drought than the seeds. I have heard of a successful operator in this work who never sowed seeds on the soil of a valuable plant, and the reason is obvious, for the great amount of moisture necessary to bring about successful germination is enough to injure the plant. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

8 July 1896
Strawberry Culture
A number of varieties of Strawberries are regarded in different sections as standard kinds, and it is puzzling to find some growers condemning sorts that others consider indispensable. The reason is that Strawberries are extremely local in their behavior, and soil and exposure have a great deal to do with the result; and the returns from a given variety vary as much as the localities in which the fruit is grown. In this climate a soil that has a clay bottom is not regarded suitable for Strawberry culture, as the plants suffer in spring from upheaving after the frosts. Our subsoil is gravel, and though it makes watering and mulching necessary, we get the best possible results each year. We plant a new bed in the summer months as soon as the runners have strong roots, and then destroy the bed that has borne for two summers. It does not pay to attempt to get a third crop from the plants; they lose vigor, many die out entirely, and the soil seenms to be exhausted by the end of the second season. It is economy to plant at least a few every year so as to keep up the fertility of the varieties and to make sure of a good supply of the fruit.
We have tried many kinds, mainly to find out those best suited to our purpose, and each grower should experiment for himself if the varieties he has do not give satisfaction. We have sifted down to Michel's Early for the earliest, Parker Earle for second, and Gandy for late varieties, and these are sufficient for our needs. The Marshall has not been a success in this section; it winter-killed severely and made a poor crop this season. We shall not plant more of it this year.
As soon as all the fruit is gathered we clean the beds of all weeds and mulch. The soil in each alternate row is then lightly forked over and three-inch pots of soil plunged about the plants to receive the runners as soon as these are large enough. The runners will soon root, and when a wet season starts in, as usually happens in early August, we have the new ground ready and set out the young plants two feet apart in the rows and three feet between the rows. All runners should be kept off the young plants during the fall growing time. When setting out the plants care should be taken to set the cut ends of the runners of every two rows pointing toward each other. The next year all the runners will be thrown into one alley, and each alternate alley will be left free for use in watering the pots in dry weather. This plan involves little trouble at planting time and will save a great deal of time and labor the next year. A slight mulching in fall is necessary in this latitude, and we leave the mulch on late in spring to prevent the plants starting too early and having the early bloom killed by late spring frosts. It must, however, be taken off later, so that the surface may be well stirred up and a little fertilizer strewed round the plants. The lawn clippings should then be used as they are raked up; no better material can be had as a mulch to keep the earth cool and moist and to keep the fruit clean and free from grit. We get a good crop the first summer after planting, and this is when the largest fruit is gathered. In the bed that is bearing the second season the greatest quantity is produced. This ends the usefulness of the beds, which are afterward made over for fall Cabbages. The ground that will be planted later with young plants is now occupied with early vegetables, such as Spinach, Lettuce, Beans, Beets and others that will be past when the ground is needed for the Strawberry plants. In this way no time is lost nor ground wasted, as happens when spring planting is practiced. The plants are great feeders, and it is wise to provide liberally for them when starting a new bed. It should be dug or plowed deep to induce the roots to go down. Deep cultivation is one of the best possible remedies for dry periods, and each year seems to bring just such experiences with it. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

29 July 1896
The Globe Artichoke
This is one of the table luxuries that has rapidly come into use in recent years, and now in all gardens of any pretensions we see it cultivated for the succulent portion of the flower-head. The plant, Cynara Scolymus, is a perennial, and, indeed, were it not of culinary value, would be prized as a border plant of no mean pretension, owing to the huge thistle-like heads of showy blue flowers and elegantly cut luxuriant gray-green foliage.
Cynara Scolymus is but a cultivated form of C. Cardunculus, and is not known in a wild state. The latter is the Cardoon of gardens, and differs but little in appearance from its relative; it is cultivated, however, the same as Celery and cooked when the tender heart is blanched. It is seldom seen here, and is rarely used except by French cooks. In France great attention is paid to the cultivation of both these vegetables, and it is safe to say that nowhere else are such fine heads or such highly improved varieties to be seen. The Messrs. Vilmorin, of Paris, have done much toward bringing about this desirable result, and last summer they showed heads in London that created much comment in English journals. This improvement is largely the result of careful selection, together with good culture. "One plant, one flower" is a maxim there, and no doubt this is sound advice, as we have proved this season. The side shoots produce heads of inferior size and flavor, and they are rarely large enough to send to table, especially after larger ones have been used.
Another reason why we have missed perfection is in trusting wholly to seed for our plants, for it is possible to treat Artichokes as annuals, saving one good head for seed to raise another year under glass. These will all flower the first season if sown early in the year, and we have such plants now showing flowers. But the objection to this practice is that seedlings vary, and the tendency is too often to revert. The variation is quite marked in the individual plants. Sometimes a specially good form will make its appearance, and here is the opportunity for the cultivator to lift the plant in fall, winter it over in the greenhouse, and carefully divide it as often as offsets are produced, with portions of root attached. All these should be set out in favorable spring weather. It is not wise to trust to seed for reproduction of these plants.
Artichokes will thrive here in any soil that is naturally well drained in winter. They can be protected from the cold with success, but moisture is fatal when the plants are dormant, though they need a large amount in the growing season. We set the young plants at least three feet apart. It would be better to have the rows five feet from each other to prevent damage to the leaves when walking between the rows. The soil is made very rich to start with, and the surface covered in summer with a mulch of some non-conducting material, such as lawn clippings or straw from the stable. This answers another purpose in keeping down all weeds. We find that a top-dressing of salt also helps to keep down weeds, and is besides a good fertilizer for the plants. Many growers use seaweed for this purpose, as the Artichoke is of maritime origin.
In young plants of the first year it is well to cut off the flower-stem as soon as the head is cut; we find that the effort to flower is sometimes too much, and the plant dies without making any buds for its reproduction next year. Individual plants sometimes act as if they were annuals, and if these die out a gap is left in the beds. When cold weather sets in they must be protected for winter. We have tried various plans with greater or less success; if superfluous leaves are cut off and the plants tied up closely to the tops and the earth banked up to this height, or a few inches above, just before the arrival of frost, there is no danger of their dying from cold. To make sure to keep out moisture we nail two boards together and place these along the ridge of the bank to effectually throw off snow and water. In very severe sections it may be well to place leaves or straw about the banks of earth to help protect the plants. We have found it better not to do this until hard frosty weather has set in, so that the field mice that will most surely be attracted to this harbor will not be able to penetrate the earth and devour the hearts of the plants; they are very partial to these morsels, and seem to scent them from afar, but if the soil is well frozen on the outside the covering will tend to prevent its thawing, and the plants are safe from all danger. We have lifted the plants and put them in a cellar to winter over; also placed them in an unheated structure, but in each instance the results were unsatisfactory, owing to the loss from damping off of the crowns. Cold will arrest this in the open ground, and if they are uncovered in spring as soon as the weather favors the removal of the cover there will be very rapid growth and an abundance of fine flower-heads, provided the side-buds are picked off. It should be added that, when tying up the plants previous to covering them with earth, a stake should be placed to each one. This will materially assist in the operation and will be valuable in indicating where the crowns are when opening them up in spring. Otherwise some are sure to be injured. Before uncovering we put in a lot of rich manure in the trenches, and this is covered up with the earth as it is leveled.
It is not too much to predict that if more care is taken in the cultivation of this fine vegetable there will be a much greater demand for it. Where it is necessary to produce a large quantity of vegetables for home use, of as much variety as possible, the Artichoke will be found a desirable change, and it is not, on the whole, difficult of cultivation if a few requirements are borne in mind. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

12 August 1896
Some Novelties I
Not the least interesting portion of the year's work in the garden is the testing of the novelties offered by the dealers. Every season most of them have to be taken on trust from the great European growers, from whence many are derived, and others are of American origin, and it is satisfactory to note the increasing value of the latter over those of foreign origin, and as well as their better adaptation to our needs and that of the climate. It may be worth while to speak of some annual and perennial plants which have been tried here from various sources.
The Imperial Japanese Morning Glories are among the more remarkable novelties of last year, and it is surprising that they have not been introduced from Japan before; there is wonderful variety among them, quite as much as promised, the foliage of many being beautifully mottled with white, and these when separated at planting-time and placed together make a very beautiful effect, not unlike the variegated Hop that came out with such a flourish a year or two ago and proved to be such a weed. I have heard complaints as to the germinating qualities of the seeds of these Ipomceas, and also that they did not grow so freely as might be desired; we found no trouble in getting the seeds to grow after carefully drawing a sharp knife round each and soaking them in water for a few hours, and planting a few at a time as fast as they became distended with moisture; if they did not swell we used the knife again, and the young plants were above the soil in a very few hours after planting. We did find that the plants grew slowly in pots, and no progress was made until they were set out in warm weather, and I fancy it would save time and trouble another year to keep the seeds until the end of May, soak and sow out-of-doors where they are to remain. We have set them round bean poles in the border, and these are already clothed to the top and flowers are coming rapidly of exquisite colors, some having the appearance of being double, owing to the way they are ruffled.
Madame Gunther's Hybrid Nasturtiums are being treated similarly as to poles, and it is surprising how beautiful an object is a group of climbing Nasturtiums when they have a chance to climb. The flowers are shown off to the best advantage, the plants do not overrun other things in the border, and as this strain is really a fine one, the effect is pleasing and promises to last until severe frosts put an end to this display.
The Sweet Pea Cupid, to say the least, has enjoyed a good entrance into garden life, and is also all that has been claimed in advance, but I fail to see in it any practical value as compared with others that are tall. Its stems are so short as to be of no value when cut, and there are many better plants of dwarf habit that seem to be more useful than Cupid, even if one could get the seeds to grow freely. There seems to be either a constitutional weakness about white-flowered Pea seeds, or something more difficult to explain. Seeds of Emily Henderson germinated very poorly under exactly the same conditions as the others that came as well as could be desired. Possibly when the stock grown is larger we shall get more of them to grow. It is singular that this same dwarf Pea should have occurred also in two different parts of Europe as well as in California. Blanche Ferry is a kind much in favor, and we have for years saved our own seeds of it; we think ours must be specially good, for they came into flower sooner and are really better than the Blanche Ferry Improved, tried this year for the first time. Katherine Tracy, we believe of the same origin as the last, is altogether one of the best. It must be a selection from Blanche Ferry, for we have seen it so grown by a florist in this state who found the beautiful shade of clear pink the same color as the Daybreak Carnation, very much appreciated in the Boston market, and he grew a quantity of it last winter in the greenhouse, but he had not quite got it fixed, and there was still a tendency to sport, none of which is apparent in Katherine Tracy as we have it now. The season has been very favorable for Sweet Peas; no watering was necessary, owing to the frequent showers, and they are better than we remember to have seen them.
We shall soon have as many varieties of Zinnia as of Asters; each year adds to the number, and all have merit, for, considering their utility and easy culture, there is nothing to equal them; there are tall ones and dwarf, and now we have the Lilliput to use as a front row of all, and of the three I rather think that the little ones will be most liked for cutting when better known. There is a refinement and finish about these little gems that all others lack, and the colors, too, are good and well defined. In a long border devoted to annuals the three kinds of Zinnia are a distinct success. Hitherto it has been difficult to get an annual that would tone down from the dwarf Zinnia to the plants used for a margin.
Campanula Japonica was a surprise when seen in the seedlists. We had no knowledge of Japanese Campanulas, and our knowledge has not been increased in this direction, for we were led to expect great things of a perennial Campanula that flowered the first year from seed, the flowers being of an intense glossy blue, semidouble, and produced in great profusion. All of this has proved true except the name, which should have been Platycodon Mariesii, and we should then not have purchased the seeds.
Another name, Coreopsis Japonica, had a rather interesting look in the seed-list. I had an idea that this genus was a purely North American one, and no authority that we have access to tells to the contrary, but here was a new bushy variety with large canary-yellow flowers produced from June till frost. If we except the name, all of the rest promises to come true, but I doubt if it is a Coreopsis. It has much greater affinity with the Heleniums, so far as I can gather from Gray's scholarly work on the North American Compositae.-[See page 316 of our last number.-ED.] South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

19 August 1896
Some Novelties II
Polygonum orientale pumilum album is the catalogue name of a new and really desirable garden annual. It grows about two feet high, begins to bloom early in June, and is covered now and promises to continue to produce its spikes of white flowers until frost. The plant is of good habit and would look well as an isolated specimen, or, better, when used next to or between Zinnias in a border. We hope to ripen seeds so as to have plenty for another year; only three came out of the packet purchased, but they came quickly and began to bloom when very small.
Cosmos as grown so far north is rarely enjoyed to its full extent outdoors owing to the frosts that usually cut it down, but last year we saw in Messrs. Suttons' trial-grounds a new race of early-flowering Cosmos which seemed to have merit, and this year it has been very generally distributed. We have had them in bloom for a month, so that they have got precocity, also the variety of colors, but it still remains to get good full flowers such as we see in the later varieties, but, doubtless, this will soon follow as the California cultivators get to work on them.
Crotalaria retusa, the annual golden-yellow flowering Pea, if it does not soon get to growing, will, I fear, not produce its racemes six to ten inches long of golden Sweet Peas. Hitherto it has absolutely refused to grow in spite of all coaxing. I wonder if this has been the experience of others.
Pennisetum Ruppellianum is the name of a new species of ornamental perennial Grass. The older and better-known species, P. longistylum, is one of the best known of border Grasses, and this one, according to promise, will produce crimson-purple plumes instead of white; a small packet of seed has given us a nice lot of plants that promise to bloom later. It should be stated that these Pennisetums are not hardy, but can be easily wintered over with Tritomas and other half-hardy plants of similar nature. Beds of ornamental Grasses are very striking in suitable positions as isolated beds on the turf. Arundo donax and its variegated form, the three Eulalias (E. variegata, E. zebrina and E. univittata), the Pennisetums, and as a margin Ophiopogon Jaburan variegatum, are all admirable. This last is very beautiful, and perhaps the prettiest hardy variegated plant we have, and, though not a Grass, is very similar in appearance until the pretty spikes of blue flowers appear.
Spiraea Anthony Waterer is doing equally as well here as in its birthplace. Mr. Waterer remarked last year that its color was said to be not so good as when first exhibited, and the doubt presented itself that, perhaps, our hot sun might tend to fade the flowers, but no such effect is apparent. Very small rooted cuttings procured last spring are now flowering from every little twig, but next year, when the plants are stronger, we may expect to see it at its best. It is a dwarf shrub, but will prove very valuable for use as a marginal plant in decorative shrubbery, or even for summer bedding; it flowers perpetually.
Our greatest success this season has been with border Pentstemons treated as annuals. It was noted earlier in the year that this was the method now adopted by English growers, instead of keeping them over as rooted cuttings. The flower spikes are very numerous now and will continue for some time in succession. It is a great satisfaction to know this, for many would grow them if it were known that the plants need not be wintered over. I doubt if the old plants will prove hardy, although the parents of this race are native North American plants; yet their identity is not easily traced now after about seventy years of hybridization. The colors vary from pure white to deepest crimson and purple, and the spikes resemble those of Foxgloves, but the flowers are in this strain much larger; the only thing they seem to insist on is rich moist soil, and we hope to mature seeds for a larger display another season. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

19 August 1896
Solanum Wendlandii
Last year this plant was very fine in the greenhouse later in the season, but was too rampant for any but a very large structure, so we have this year tried it out-of-doors in the border, where it has been in bloom during the past few weeks, and will a little later make a fine display; each small shoot has a terminal flower-cluster of the prettiest shade of lavender-blue, and as the plant is hardstemmed it is easily wintered over and may be set out again year after year. It is a native of Central America, and the most beautiful of all flowering Solanums known to cultivators. We find it easy to propagate from young shoots taken from the plant grown in the greenhouse; those taken from strong growth of a planted out specimen last fall did not root owing to the abundance of sap in them. It is best to take them from pot-plants and root them in an open bed of sand; in the propagating-case all will rot off. South Lancaster MA, E. O. O.

26 August 1896
Orchid Notes
Rodriguezia pubescens
This is one of the most beautiful of Orchids, considering the wealth of bloom produced from comparatively small plants; the sprays are long, arching gracefully, and the flowers are of the purest white, with a trace of yellow on the lip. This plant is not new, it having been well known at the time of its introduction, just fifty years ago, but like many other Orchids, as, for example, Cattleya labiata, it became scarce after a time, and not until the rediscovery of the Cattleya did this Rodriguezia appear again. Both Orchids come from the same part of Brazil, Pernambuco. Our plant, in a small pan, had twelve flower-spikes, and it was exceedingly pretty when in bloom, but owing, probably, to the intense heat at the time and the amount of moisture present in the atmosphere, the flowers only lasted a few days. They seem to be self-fertilizing, as a number of the caps containing the pollen were found on the bench under the plant, some at quite a distance, as though they were forced off by some mechanical means, such as those developed in Catasetum and other genera, and a day or two later many of the seed-vessels began to swell. The flowers were evidently impregnated without artificial aid, not common among Orchids, though there are well-known exceptions to the rule. It would be interesting to learn if other cultivators have had the same experience with this Rodriguezia, as I can find no record of this in any work to which I have access. We find it best grown in a pan or other open receptacle suspended in the warmest house; the roots are slender and seem to avoid the compost of living moss as much as possible, preferring to grow out and breathe in the moisture in the atmosphere. It was tried among the Cattleyas for a time, for we thought this ought to be the place for it, as it is found growing with them, but some of the young growths soon began to decay. It evidently was not warm enough there, so it was taken back to the warmer house, where it has prospered. When reintroduced into cultivation, like many more plants, it was thought to be new, and was named afresh R. Lindeni, but it was speedily located in published descriptions of the earlier part of the century, and will henceforth, no doubt, be often seen in gardens.
Cypripedium Thayerianum
Horticulture is said to be progressive, and we venture to think that botany or botanical nomenclature is also, and if the attempts constantly made to classify and rearrange the work of the hybridist are to be taken seriously, ordinary cultivators will never be able to keep pace with the progress. Cypripedium Boxalli has for nineteen years been generally regarded as a well-marked variety of C. villosum. The flower is different structurally, and there appears to be no evidence of forms merging into the type species, but a late writer on the subject, Hansen, in The Orchid Hybrids, has suddenly decided that C. Boxalli must henceforth be considered the same as C. villosum, and a host of hybrids having the former for one parent must then be considered as synonyms, and cultivators will have to begin to learn over again the names of the plants they possess. C. Thayerianum is one of these; it is the result of a cross between C. Lawrenceanum and what is known as C. Boxalli atratum, a dark form, having the large flowers and rich wine coloring of C. Lawrenceanum, with the high polish of C. Boxalli atratum over the whole surface of the flower. Among hybrid Cypripediums it is considered one of the best, and it improves each year in size and coloring, is of healthy vigorous growth and was raised by the Messrs. Sander, of St. Albans, England. It remains to be seen whether Mr. Hansen's many innovations will be generally accepted by botanists, but from the cultivators' standpoint it will make confusion worse confounded. The above is only one of the many reforms suggested. South Lancaster MA, E. O. O.

9 September 1896
Violets
At this season of the year the greatest growth is being made by the Violets, and it often seems a pity that they must be moved just as they appear to be enjoying the cool nights, but we have found that to delay housing them is often fatal; the heavy night dews seem to be laden with disease germs that soon develop the dread spot on the foliage, and it is a difficult matter to get rid of it when once it has a foothold so late in the year. Even in frames we have never been able to keep out the disease; it has always done more or less damage before the arrival of cold weather, and we have to wait until spring for the crop that should have been produced in midwinter; but where a bench in a cool house is at disposal, one is sure of Violets at all times, no matter what the state of the weather is outdoors. The ordinary bench, as built for Roses and Carnations, is not deep enough for Violets, which are deep-rooting plants, and a bench constructed of a board twelve inches wide is none too deep. Having a good depth of soil does away with a good deal of danger from decay from a surplus of moisture in dull short days, for a body of soil a foot in depth does not easily dry out in midwinter when once well moistened, and when the soil is in this condition it is easy to keep the surface somewhat dry so that the flowers that lie near it will not be lost from damp. If a layer of clean sharp sand is placed all over the soil it will aid materially in this respect, and it will also aid the young runners to root freely. At this time we make cuttings of the runners for the next year's crop; it is aimed to get them off the plants before fire-heat is applied in the house, and soon enough to get them all rooted before the winter sets in. A compost of half leaf-mold and half sand is used, and the runners are set thickly in boxes, well watered and placed in a shady cool frame, there to stay all winter. They are frozen up for at least six weeks every winter, but this does not harm them if the frames are kept closed until the arrival of warmer days, and the rooted plants are kept in the boxes until it is time to put them in the open air to harden off, and they are planted in their summer quarters some time at the end of April or early in May. Plants that we have now have not known what it is to be subject to fire-heat for several years, and I find that the experience of other growers agrees with mine. This does away with spring propagation when time is less easily found for it than just now, and when space in the greenhouses is scarce.
There seems to be no doubt that the ordinary system of cultivating Violets has rendered the plants more susceptible to disease, and this fact was emphasized the past week when I saw a large number of plants in the open field with one of the specialists in this vicinity. He pointed out a row of plants that had been propagated from plants imported from England this past spring, and one would have taken them for a distinct variety, so vigorous were they, but all were Lady H. Campbell, the variety that has given the most successes of any in past years. We, in common with others, have been tempted to try varieties that seemed more desirable on account of color, but the result has been in each case that they were an easy prey to disease, and we have now a number of the variety sent out as the Farquhar that seem predisposed to spot, although they were obtained from stock that was perfectly clean with the grower last winter from whom they were purchased.
All remedies tried up to this season have been of no avail to even check the spot, but this autumn we are trying Sulphonapthol, a preparation sent out as a disinfectant, insecticide and germicide. For the first purpose it is excellent, the second very dangerous, and for the third use, at present writing, seems promising. It is used in a one per cent solution with water, is easily soluble, and if effectual will be a cheap remedy for a trouble that has hitherto baffled all who have tried to do battle with it. It would be well for others to experiment also and report their results.
Most people now have tried the Violet California, and the opinions seem varied, to say the least, but we have found it to be a really good single flower, fragrant, of good color and ample foliage. It would seem as if this kind would be worth growing for the foliage alone; it is stout and makes up well with the flowers of other varieties, for most growers are aware that in midwinter good foliage is more difficult to obtain than flowers, and with this fact in view we have decided to try a good frame full of them, for they seem healthy and vigorous so far.
Violets require a cool house; in a night temperature of, say, torty degrees as a minimum, the plants will thrive, and insect pests, as red spider and plant-lice, will not, and if a whole structure cannot be spared for Violets alone, Mignonette will be found an excellent companion plant; the two thrive under exactly similar conditions as to depth of soil and temperature, excepting that it is almost impossible to make soil too rich for Mignonette. The seed should be sown at the beginning of August, but it is not too late now to sow and get good results in winter and early spring months, if some good strain of seed is chosen. Sutton's Giant we have used for a number of years; Allen's Defiance is a very large-growing variety, and if either of these is not to hand, Machet is quite satisfactory, although strains of this vary very much. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

23 September 1896
Orchids in Flower
Oncidium incurvum
This is the period when there are fewer flowers among Orchids, and such as are in bloom are the more conspicuous and valuable. Oncidium incurvum is one that can be relied on to grow freely and to flower at this season every year; the spikes are a long time developing, often six months, but the longer they are growing the better and larger the spray, for they will sometimes be four feet in length, as we have them now, and covered with side branches that have pretty pink and white flowers that are very fragrant on bright days. It is essentially one of the plants that any one can grow where a warm greenhouse is at command. As the plant is a native of Mexico and Guatemala at considerable elevation, a tropical temperature would be fatal eventually, so a temperature of about fifty degrees in winter is ample, with plenty of air and shade in summer.
Oncidium ornithoxynchum
This is another species that will thrive under similar conditions as Oncidium incurvum, as it comes from the same localities, and, like it, has flowers that have pink shades, probably the only two in the genus where pink takes the place of the all-predominant yellow that is almost peculiar to the genus. O. ornithorynchum also has long, much-branched flower-spikes that are produced four, and sometimes more, from a single growth, and when these are covered with rosy pink flowers that are deliciously fragrant, a spicy odor that does not tire, but reminds one of Heliotrope, a well-grown plant is decidedly pleasing and a thing of beauty that lasts in good condition for a long time. There is a white variety that sometimes crops up among importations, and it is much valued when one is fortunate enough to obtain it in this way. I saw a superb specimen of it in the noted Measures collection last year that created a sensation when shown in London some time later. There is no difficulty in cultivating this species. We used to grow them in perforated pans, suspended, but when taking them out it was noticed that the roots carefully avoided the perforations and were to be found only adhering to the pan itself, so it seemed reasonable to suppose they did not grow on trees and would prefer an ordinary flower-pot, and those that were tried in this way show a decided increase in vigor; a small plant that was obtained five years ago in a four-inch pot is now a huge specimen in a pot ten inches in diameter, and will in a few days be covered with flowers. This plant grew so well that twelve more were obtained, and there is quite a variation among them as to color. These Oncidiums should never be dried off, and before the flower-spikes are much advanced the pots must be immersed in water to get out the slugs, as these are very partial to the tender-growing flower-stems. South Lancaster MA, E. O. O.

30 September 1896
Ophiopogon Jaburan variegatum
For many years after its introduction, and, indeed, even at the present time, this beautiful Japanese garden plant, in common with others, was considered tender, and always classed with greenhouse plants. There is no reason why this should be so, as far as its utility and beauty are concerned, and when once the hardiness of any plant is assured, its proper place is in the garden. While the genus Ophiopogon is widely removed from the Grasses, nevertheless, as a margin to a bed of decorative Grasses, no more fitting plant could be used. It is perfectly hardy; more so, indeed, than some of the Eulalias and Arundo donax, which in this latitude need a good protective covering in winter. In addition to the beautiful variegation of the foliage of this Ophiopogon, it carries at this season a profusion of bright blue flower-spikes that are attractive in contrast with the creamy white striped foliage. This plant is often seen under the names of O. spicatum or O. Japonicum, both of which are totally different plants, and rarely, if ever, seen in gardens. The intense violet-blue flowers are typical of this variety, which may safely be considered the best in the genus. The generic name is somewhat unusual, and is a translation of the native name, which signifies serpent's beard. To propagate it, it should be lifted in spring and carefully divided. The roots have tubercles similar to Hemerocallis, and are easily separated; the crowns are first divided, and then the roots.
Pennisetum Ruppellianum
A few weeks ago this new ornamental Grass was described, and its free growth from seed the first season was noted. As was promised by the introducer, the spikes are deep red-bronze, quite remarkable among Grasses that bear spikes and a striking contrast to Pennisetum longistylum, the better-known species, which has spikes of nearly white flowers, and the new variety has the same graceful, long, narrow, green foliage, in dense tufts, as the old form. We find it is easily raised from seed and flowers profusely the first year. In this particular it is in striking contrast with most of the annual ornamental Grasses, with the seeds of which we have had but poor success, probably because first-class seeds are not kept by dealers, owing to lack of demand on the part of cultivators. South Lancaster MA, E. O. O.

14 October 1896
Flower Garden Notes
Owing to protracted rains, the outdoor-garden is less attractive than we ever remember to have seen it at this season. Asters, Boltonias, Silphiums and Pyrethrum uliginosum, which ought to be making a superb display, are but a sorry spectacle, and the only really bright thing we have is the Scarlet Sage, Salvia splendens, and a few Zinnias. These were planted where the first frost could not touch them, and it is surprising how much influence neighboring trees can exercise in keeping off the earliest frosts that usually blight the tenderest plants.
It has not been safe in past years to lift plants or roots from a permanent border in the autumn months; there are so many things that are invisible above the soil at this season, that it is wise to defer thinning out until spring, when all are appearing above ground. If, however, it is desirable to add plants to make losses good, or, even to remodel altogether, it is always best to do as much as possible now before the soil loses its warmth and while it is well moistened down to a good depth.
As soon as all border plants have died off or turned yellow, so that they can be cut down, we shall add the annual topdressing of well-decayed leaf-mold, putting it on to a depth of at least four inches all over the beds. This makes a good protective covering as well as a fertilizer, and brings in far fewer weeds than stable litter. At this season it is economy to save every leaf that can be gathered and heap them for future use; it takes two years for them to decay thoroughly, and a turning over once or twice a year will materially hasten the decomposition. If lime be not present in the natural soil of the locality, it will be well to add it to the heap as it is turned over; it will also help the process and add to the value of the whole as a fertilizer, but care must be taken not to use any of the compost for Ericaceous plants, such as Rhododendrons, Kalmias, Ericas, Andromedas or other allied plants, for lime is poison to the roots of all such. Many have found how difficult it is to cultivate these plants on a limestone formation. In this section no limestone is in the rock formation, so that an application of lime is a help to soils that are under cultivation for any length of time.
We have already lifted and replanted all the Narcissus-bulbs. This was the year to separate the clumps that had been growing larger than was good for the best results, and all have been replanted again. It is not too late to do this work now, but it is not safe to defer much longer, because the roots are in active growth soon after the fall rains set in. A light mulch over all when planted will keep out a lot of frost and induce a strong growth this fall, which will greatly improve the display next year, besides acting as a fertilizer for such annuals as are used in the borders.
Some recent exhibits of Salpiglossis before the Massachusetts Horticultural Society have enlightened many as to their value for summer-border use; there seems to be a great advance made lately with this beautiful annual. It is also a mistake to plant the seeds in the greenhouse, for the young plants do not like transplanting, and thrive well when sown where they are to bloom; the colors are very beautiful in the softness and delicate marking. The Salpiglossis is among the best of garden annuals for house decoration when the flowers are cut and used in vases, and they last well.
Any plants that are needed for propagating, if herbaceous, should be lifted soon and stored in boxes in cold frames until March, when they may be put into a warm greenhouse and cuttings made of the young shoots. Most herbaceous plants root freely in this way, and soon make strong plants to set out in spring. This is the best way to increase the finer forms of garden Phlox, Veronicas, Helianthus, Campanulas, Lychnis and the like.
Bulbs of tender plants must be taken up as soon as the tops are browned by frost; Gladioluses, Cannas and Montbretias may be laid out to dry for a few days before storing in the winter quarters. We put the Gladiolus corms in bags and suspend them in a cool cellar; Cannas seem to need a warmer place. A temperature never less than forty-five is best suited for them, or many will be lost from damp and decay. South Lancaster MA, E. O.

28 October 1896
Orchid Notes I
The season for the flowering of Orchids has begun, and the profusion of bloom now is hardly excelled at any time of year. This autumn display would have been impossible five years ago, and even unheard of. The change is due to the introduction of Cattleya labiata and Dendrobium Phalanopsis. Cattleya labiata is of the easiest possible culture, and produces, perhaps, a smaller percentage of poor forms than any other Cattleya. It stands more exposure to the sun also; the leaves made in Brazil are of very thick texture, and can only be reproduced under our system of cultivating them by free exposure to sun and air during the growing season. This Cattleya starts to grow very soon after the flowering is past, and root-action begins at once. If it is necessary to repot the plants, this is best done during the month of December. Last year our plants were all repotted before the end of that month, and out of nearly a hundred not one shows signs of retrogression. As soon as the repotting of C. labiata is done, others will need attention. The repotting should always be done when there are signs of fresh root-action. If the plants are growing in pots they should be well soaked in water for a day or two, when the roots will part from the pot easily and with less damage from breaking than if the compost is dry. Cattleyas are often grown in wooden baskets, but we have abolished them, and use pots only, If the plants are large the pots are perforated to help aerate the material in which they are growing and keep it sweet. It often half-kills a Cattleya to take it out of a wooden receptacle, but if the roots are matted round a pot the pot can readily be broken and the roots detached without great injury. Sphagnum-moss should never be used for Cattleyas; it helps to decompose the Fern-fibre and often holds too much moisture when it is not desired. When left out it is almost impossible to overwater a Cattleya.
Dendrobium Phalaenopsis will soon be past flowering, when the stems or pseudo-bulbs will show shrinkage, owing to the strain of producing the long sprays of bloom. This must, if possible, be made good before the plants are at rest, or the start made in spring will be correspondingly weak, and there will also be a loss of foliage that should be avoided, if possible. It has been a question whether this Dendrobium is deciduous or not under normal conditions. It now appears that, if well managed, the plants will retain most of their leaves through the winter with great benefit to the plants. Sick plants will surely lose all the foliage, and the growth will be weaker in consequence the next year. Young plants made from the portions of old stems must be left on until next March, or when the growth commences, and then placed in small pots. They are worth taking care of, for this is one of the most useful Orchids ever introduced to gardens.
The cool-house plants need attention now, as almost all of the Odontoglossums have begun to grow, and now that the hot weather is past for this year and the temperature can be controlled conveniently, the plants must be encouraged to make all the progress possible. To accomplish this, the roots must first be made comfortable. We use a good portion of moss for cool-house plants, as it is easy to clean away the compost without damage to the roots. As a great quantity of water is needed at all times, and the plants should never suffer for the want of it, there is no better index as to moisture than Sphagnum, which assumes a whitish green as soon as it becomes dry. It is an old saying, with truth in it, that " to be able to grow Odontoglossums it is first necessary to learn how to grow Sphagnum-moss." It is customary to pull the Fern fibre to pieces and blend with it about half its bulk of moss. We have found that it is much better to leave the fibre in its original condition and merely shake out the loose earth and use the brown portions. This should be cut into triangular pieces as large as need be; and a few heads of living moss should be inserted between each piece, and it will soon grow and cover the entire surface. It is a serious mistake to use pots too large for the plants, with the idea of encouraging greater vigor by a larger amount of compost. It is an error often made by beginners and cannot be too strongly condemned. The smaller the pot, so that it is large enough, the better the plants will thrive. This is especially applicable to Odontoglossum crispum and its allied kinds. 0. grande is now in bloom and is a very useful plant for decorative purposes at this season. It is of Mexican origin and in winter needs a warmer house than the cool house proper, where it thrives well in summer, and even in a shady place out-of-doors if moisture is abundant. It is well to give water all winter at regular intervals to keep the bulbs plump. 0. grande is one of the kinds for many years reputed to be hard to keep in good condition; with rational treatment we have found that it is not difficult to grow, but the strain of blooming every year is great, and it is economical to let each plant flower but once in two years. They are easily procured at a nominal price.
Cypripediums of the Insigne type were all out-of-doors from the end of May until the end of September. The pots were plunged in a spent hot-bed under the shade of Elm-trees. The sashes were taken off and the plants sprinkled overhead on hot days. This method has been practiced for several years with good results. The plants flower freely, have a deep green color, and are not forced to make growth at the expense of flowers, as is often the case when the plants are kept in the greenhouse during the hot months. After the flowering is past the plants are rested in a cool greenhouse for a month or two until March, and renewed root-action takes place, and if repotting is necessary it is then done. Cypripediums of this type do not readily come out of the pots when they are full of roots. It is better to break the pots rather than the roots. If the plants are in large pots and it is not desirable to have them larger, they can be maintained in good health for a number of years by giving a little stimulant in the water, such as a very weak solution of sulphate of ammonia or nitrate of soda, or, better still, both at alternate waterings. The invention of the Kenney pump has greatly simplified the application of all liquid stimulants. A strong solution is made in a convenient vessel, and in the use of the pump the solution is blended with the hose supply at any desired strength by diaphragms of various sizes. The temperature can be regulated also by mixing the solution with water warm enough to take the chill off the water as it comes from the main. An invention so inexpensive ought to be better known. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

4 November
Orchid Notes II
At this season, also, it is best to repot the Miltonias of the type represented by M. vexillaria. The growths will be well started by this time, and new roots will begin to start from the base. There is an upward tendency to each successive year's growth, and it is necessary to set the plants lower down in the pots, even though the oldest bulbs may be buried, so as to bring the new growth and roots just below the level of the potting material. The roots rarely go very deep in the pots, but rather penetrate near the surface and on the outsides of the pots. They should not be repotted into pots larger than is absolutely required for the current season's growth. One application of water when not required will often cause deep-seated decay that is hard to arrest. It is better not to use loam in the compost, as some cultivators recommend; in other words, make the potting material as porous as possible, so that the large quantities of water needed in the growing period may be applied without danger. With an occasional application of stimulant in a liquid form this lovely Orchid may be cultivated with ease, and improved year after year. Our plants have been taken from the cool house where they have spent the summer, and after repotting have been placed at the cool end of the Cattleya-house, where the temperature will range about fifty-five degrees during the cold weather. A layer of fresh tobacco-stems has been placed under the trellis on which the pots stand to guard against thrips, which, if once they gain a footing, speedily ruin the foliage and blight the flower-stems. Our experience with Miltonia vexillaria has shown that it is safer to keep the specimens rather small than to grow them on into pots larger than six-inch. They are easily divided at potting time, and are much more useful for decoration if grown in moderately small pots. Hybrids from Miltonias are not common, but are represented by one or two notable examples. We have just succeeded in getting a fine seed-capsule on M. vexillaria crossed with M. Clowesii, and hope that good fertile seed may be produced in due season.
Odontoglossum Rossi is one of the prettiest Mexican species, and is very useful for boutonnieres in winter. It is easy to cultivate if attention is given at the right time. The growth is maturing now, and a light position in a moderately warm house is needed. The plants have summered in the coolest house, and are taken into more light at this time. If left in the cool house for the winter they would soon dwindle away. 0. citrosmum is another Mexican plant that will soon finish growing, and when the bulbs are well matured it is best to suspend the plants near the glass in a light position, giving very little water during the resting season. But we have never found it necessary to let the bulbs shrivel to any degree to induce the plants to flower. We give water sparingly until the spikes appear at the tips of the young growths. Sometimes this is not until midsummer, but rarely does a plant miss blooming. The spikes are strong, often branched, whereas they would be weak if the bulbs were not plump, to aid them at flowering time. There are few Orchids that have such a charm when in bloom as well-flowered plants of 0. citrosmum, with the long pendent flower-stems, often a yard long, and the delicious lemon fragrance in early morning. If the plants are not disturbed very often there is no trouble in growing them. We use nothing but Fern-fibre for them and rarely disturb them oftener than once in three years.
Dendrobiums of the Nobile section will now have mostly completed their growth; they need a cooler temperature, or another start will be made, though there is not so much tendency this sunless season as in some other years. Should a start be made we ignore the fact and rest the plants just the same, or the whole machinery of the plant would be thrown out of gear if we attempt to make up a satisfactory growth at this period in a higher temperature. It is best to avoid too much sun at first when putting the plants to rest. I like to see the leaves a healthy green, also the pseudo-bulbs. The bright yellow they assume with exposure is not so well to start from again after the plants are weakened by flowering. The moss in which the plants have grown may be allowed to become quite dry before water is applied, just enough being given to avoid shrinking of the stems.
During the past few weeks very little water has been used to damp the house in which the plants are growing, but as soon as more fire-heat is applied more water must be sprinkled to counteract the parching effect on the atmosphere; and also now on bright days, if there should be any, for we have had but two sunshiny days in three weeks. Most of the plants are now going to rest, nearly all the Cattleyas being in this stage. Less water will be needed to assist in the maturing that leads to abundant flowering. When water is given at the roots we find it well to turn on a little heat under the benches where the largest pots stand, to dry up the superabundance of water that is not desirable at this season. The benches are made of open trellis-work that allows a free circulation of air. If fresh Oakleaves can be procured, a good supply will be sprinkled with slaked lime and then placed on the ground under the benches. The lime hastens decomposition, kills insects, and the leaves give off a steady supply of food for the roots that are eager to take it up if it is made more available by frequent spraying when fire-heat is much used, as in midwinter. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

11 November 1896
The Cultivation of Mushrooms
It has always been considered that there was more or less of legerdemain in the successful growing of Mushrooms, and many old-time cultivators made this supposition seem probable by various pretenses which had little foundation in fact. Many people object to eating Mushrooms for fear of spurious varieties which are known to be poisonous, and great care must be exercised when gathering them in the fields, but under cultivation there is no danger whatever. I have never known any other species of fungus to be produced in the Mushroom beds that approached Agaricus campestris near enough in appearance to be mistaken for it, and cultivated specimens may be safely eaten with no fears as to the results. Very recently a popular interest in mycology has sprung up, and there are now two flourishing societies in this state which have meetings and exhibitions for the better study of fungi and their edible species. These meetings and increasing observations by the mass of the people will help to do away with a great deal of the ignorance and superstition about this family of fungi, and anything that will help to make better known and appreciated these esculents will be a public benefaction.
Ever since we have begun to grow the Mushroom under the greenhouse benches we have never had to record a total failure, and some of the crops have been most successful. We are exceptionally situated for obtaining material for the beds, and this is a primary requisite, it being essential to collect this quickly so as to have enough in bulk and to get the whole in a warm but moderately dry condition before any part of it has lost virtue by becoming cold. It is best to collect all that is possible each morning, throwing out all long straws, and, when sufficient is obtained, letting the heap heat moderately, say for two days, before turning it over, and keeping up this while forming another heap of the newer material to be treated separately, making up a bed as fast as each heap is in proper condition - that is, when rank gases have been eliminated and excess of moisture evaporated by warmth and exposure. It may be safely considered fit to make up in beds when a handful can be taken up without soiling the hands or moisture felt to be present. One of our mistakes, that was not apparent for some time, was making the beds too deep, and this resulted in overheating when the beds were made up. But as the Mushrooms were produced only about the outer edges of the beds or where the new bed was joined on, this led to the discovery of the fault. Now we never make a bed more than ten inches deep at the back, and sloping gently to six inches at the front of a four-foot bed. Under these conditions the temperature never seems to get beyond control, and rarely exceeds 100 degrees, Fahrenheit.
The firmer the beds are made up the less violent the heat at first, and the longer it will last, and it will produce quicker returns. A short-handled mallet is useful in compacting the beds. We wait until the maximum temperature has been reached, and spawn when the temperature is falling at about 95 degrees, and add a coating of fresh loam a day or two after, with water as often as necessary to keep the surface moist, always using tepid water to prevent chilling the beds. If it is found that the heat rises to an undesirable degree, a watering will often cool it down sufficiently, but should the heat get beyond 100 degrees, either before or after spawning, it is better to take thie whole out and make it over rather than risk a failure.
A good quality of the spawn is essential to success, but not half the failures attributed to spawn of inferior quality rightly belong there. For the last two years we have been very successful in getting some that was really good, with no traces of mycelium that had started into premature growth. Always avoid spawn that has a growth of white threads on the bricks, as this is an evidence of premature germination of the mycelium. This is what ought to take place when it is planted in the beds, but it is too often induced by improper conditions before it reaches the planter. When one bed is made up and another is about to be commenced, we take enough bricks of spawn and lay them out on the top of the bed and turn every second day or so. This renders the bricks less dry, so that they are more easily broken, and rapid growth begins as soon as planted, and a week or two is saved in bringing up the crop.
Nitrate of soda is an excellent stimulant for Mushroom beds when they seem to be past bearing. A partial drying off, and then a good soaking with a weak dilution of nitrate, will start up a good second growth that will sometimes equal the first.
Our beds are formed under the greenhouse benches in a structure where Chrysanthemums and Carnations are grown, and the temperature of the house is kept at 50 during the winter. This suits the crop well, and when in bearing a cloth is tacked about the bed to keep it dark and give more even conditions as to moisture and heat; that is, the heat generated by the beds themselves will be held, and if the temperature chances to fall below 70 before the crop is well up, a good covering of hay will bring the heat up to the surface and raise it several degrees. Sudden fluctuations in temperature are in this way easily avoided.
There is no better time than the present to start a bed. Flies are very troublesome in the structure from early formed plantings, but from this time on there will be no trouble from them, and if an airy shed or barn floor is available for the preparation of the manure no great difficulty need be anticipated in the production of plenty of Mushrooms during winter, when they are always a welcome addition to the short list of available table vegetables. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

2 December 1896
Greenhouse Notes
After the Chrysanthemum feast there is apt to be something of a famine in the way of flowers for cutting purposes, and it requires much forethought to avoid this. It has been for several years our practice to have the first crop of Carnations come in at this particular time, and with this end in view the plants are topped in the field later than is generally advised. The last flower-stems are taken off the second week in August, so that at lifting-time in September there is not a flower-stem visible, and the full crop comes on soon after the plants are established in the house. While it is a large crop, it is not more than the plants can perfect easily. When plants are lifted with flower-buds in quantity, the check incident to transplanting frequently makes the task too great for the plants, and if the flowers do develop it leaves the plants in an unfit condition to produce another crop until late in winter. If the first flowers are now picked there will be no scarcity of them through the rest of the winter. For early use all the largest and most advanced plants from specially early propagation are allowed to develop their buds, and are placed in deep frames in July, and these give an abundance of good Carnations for early use, and may be now placed indoors to take place on some of the Chrysanthemum benches.
Poinsettias are useful from this time on until after the new year. If a number are grown it is possible to have a good display at Thanksgiving-time by placing the earliest in a warm house soon after the plants are brought indoors. We have not failed to have them at this time for several seasons. Few plants give such rich coloring now, when bright flowers and foliage are scarce, as well-grown Poinsettias. To keep the foliage in good condition, a temperature of not less than sixty degrees must be maintained, with a liberal amount of stimulant in the water. When cut, the ends of the stems must be immediately placed in boiling water for a second or two. This will stop the loss of sap, and consequent wilting when used for decorating.
Roman Hyacinths are useful now, and may be had with little trouble if good bulbs are obtained. There has been a marked deterioration in the quality the last year or two, for some unexplained reason, but if the bulbs are smaller they admit of being planted closer, and the effect is about the same in the end. It is best to bring them on in a cool house until the flower-buds are visible, otherwise there will be green leaves and very few blossoms. Lachenalias blend prettily with Roman Hyacinths, and are also easily managed. L. pendula is the best for this purpose, as it is the most vigorous in habit, the earliest to bloom and one of the brightest in colors, though there are a set of new ones that bid fair to surpass this old kind both in vigor and coloring. Lachenalias must not be neglected after blooming, for the treatment they receive then goes to make the bulb for the following year, and a light position on a shelf in a cool house is easily secured for them. They are Cape bulbs, and need the same treatment as Freesias.
From various experiments it seems that this is the best time to sow Cyclamen seed. A good strain of seeds should be bought and sown in pans of very porous soil as soon as possible. It is some time before the growth is visible above ground, and care must be taken to add plenty of some porous material to prevent the soil from becoming sour and inert. We break up a soft brick fine and use the small siftings. It is the best substitute for charcoal. Water must be given sparingly for a week or two or many of the seeds decay before germinating. Once germinated and the returning increase of sunlight of the new year is upon them, it will be found that there will be no check as when sown in September, and the plants will be much larger than if sown at the beginning of the year. Good strong seedling Cyclamens are in most instances preferable to old bulbs kept over, though it must be admitted that if these can be kept over and grown they make the best plants. This is not an easy task, however, and seems to be understood by few. In any case, it is well to sow a few seeds each year to anticipate losses.
Where hybrid Roses are grown it is best to bring in a few after the Chrysanthemums are all gone. This is also a good time to buy new plants, when necessary. They should be planted in deep boxes rather than in pots. These new plants must not be forced to come in as an early crop, but kept for later use. It is better if they are allowed to start when they please, and the results for the future will pay for the waiting. When pruning Roses at this time it is well to save the growth which is cut off. If the pieces are cut in lengths of about twelve inches, cut clean at a joint at the base and tied in small bunches with names before they are heeled in soil in a cold frame, it will be found in April that there is a callus at the base of each cutting, only waiting to be planted to strike root and make fine young stock on their own roots at the end of the growing season. When planting the cuttings out it is necessary to bury them deep in the soil so as to leave but one or two joints visible above ground. This prevents too rapid evaporation of the stored-up sap and will greatly facilitate the formation of roots. I regret that we did not save all the prunings last fall when looking at the young Roses raised in this way.
Winter is closing in rapidly now, and the cold frames where the stock plants of Chrysanthemums and other half-hardy plants are stored must be, in this latitude at least, well lined with dry leaves, kept in place by rough boards. Many of these frames will be in demand for use as hotbeds later on, and the protection is then indispensable. All plants that are susceptible to injury from frost should be placed in a heated structure now. With the best care frames are apt to get a little frost at times when the mats are damp or the cold very severe, and many useful things not easily replaced are lost in this way. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

16 December 1896
Mexican Laelias
Laelia anceps and its varieties, L. autumnalis. L. albida, L. Gouldiana, and other forms that bloom during midwinter are particularly useful in this dull season. The flowers of L. anceps alone, if a number of them are grown, make an effective display, especially if a few of the superb white forms are used with the typical form. None of these flowers are of much value for cutting. The stems do not readily absorb water and they fade soon. The flowering plants are, however, useful for decorative purposes, and the flowers last in good condition as long as six weeks in a moderatelycool house free from excessive moisture.
For various reasons these Mexican Orchids have a rather poor reputation among cultivators, but there is no difficulty that may not easily be overcome with rational treatment. It is quite possible that all the Laelias named would thrive better out-of-doors for four months each year, beginning with June, if a light airy structure is not at hand for them. We have for several years had plants of the white form of L. anceps that have steadily refused to flower when grown in the greenhouse, but when placed in partial shade with Cypripedium insigne during the past summer they improved in strength to such an extent that some are now about to bloom, and all show a decided increase of vigor. They were placed in a position where the sun shone on them until about I o'clock, when large Elms afforded shade during the hottest portion of the day. We tried this plan because the new growths were not stiff enough to hold the leaves rigid, and they had a tendency to lay over to one side to their permanent disfigurement if left alone. Sometimes Cattleyas show these symptoms, especially those of the two-leaved section, such as C. Leopoldii and C. Bowringiana, and there-is no surer sign of too much heat and not enough air; perhaps not during the day, for at that time of year the temperature is beyond control, but at night enough air is not allowed to circulate among the plants. As we could not provide a cooler structure with the proper amount of light, we put the plants outdoors. The leaves were tied up to maintain a normal position; they at once began to stiffen, and the results were all that could be desired.
It is well known that there are several types of white Laelia anceps. Some flower freely, as L. Hilliana and L. stella, but many need to be grown very strong to induce them to bloom, as L. Sanderiana. There is no doubt, however, that all will flower each year with proper care, which includes plenty of water. Mexican Laelias enjoy a spraying overhead once a day, and even more often on very hot days, provided the material in which they are grown is suitable and in a wholesome and porous condition. Nothing but good sound Osmunda-root should be used to grow them in, with no addition of moss, as this will decay and make the whole inert. A very little moss might be used as an index to the state of the material in winter, but not enough to blend it through the whole potting material, as is generally done.
It is sometimes advised to keep these plants dry so as to rest them after flowering, but this is a great error. They need recuperation, it is true, but nothing effects this so well as moisture. After blooming, the bulbs are shriveled from the strain upon them, and a fascicle of new roots is pushed from the base of the flowering bulb, which seeks more food in the way of new material and moisture to make good the loss. This is an infallible guide to the right time to repot any Orchid, and it should be rather anticipated than otherwise, for delay will injure the young tender tips of these new roots. As soon as the flowers are cut from Mexican Lelias the roots should, therefore, be examined, and if repotting is required this should be done at once. Only a little compost should be used, rather than too much, owing to the great quantity of water that may be necessary in hot weather.
Laelia autumnalis will now be going out of flower. Our plants have already been taken out of the old receptacles and placed in new ones, with fresh material. If they are to be grown suspended from the roof of the greenhouse it is best to use charcoal for drainage, as it is much lighter in weight and stores moisture well. L. Arnoldiana, L. Gouldiana and L. anceps will need attention soon, as they each go out of bloom.
Laelia albida is not usually a success grown in pots or baskets. The plants, whether newly imported or established pieces, will grow best if tied with copper wire to pieces of Fernroot sawed out flat to the desired size and about two inches thick. The pieces should be wired on the flat side and suspended at the ends of the house. This has proved a good way to grow many of the species that have been most intractable underother methods.
Cattleya citrina is also a Mexican plant and is short-lived in cultivation. Some inferior dried scraps came into our possession some time since and they were also wired to a block of fern fibre. We did not expect them to thrive, but some have flowered; all are growing stronger and most will bloom at the next flowering period. This Cattleya is unique in being the only species found in Mexico, in its yellow color and in its persistent habit of growing downward. These features, added to its delicious fragrance, make it one of the plants that culti vators are anxious to grow well. Growing it on a block is, perhaps, not so generally practiced as circumstances would seem to warrant.
Cattleya Walkeriana,. though of Brazilian origin, may well be classed with the foregoing, owing to its habit of winter blooming, its dwarf, almost round, bulbs, and bad reputation from a cultural standpoint. We had a dozen scraps once, newly imported and rather unpromising in appearance; these were pegged on a block of Fern-root and suspended near the glass. There is great improvement in the size of the bulbs made here over those grown in their home. The plants flower freely and are a pleasing sight now, when some have three and four flowers to a stem. Grown in this way it is a decidedly handsome plant. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

30 December 1896
Cypripedium bellatulum
The genus Cypripedium may be said to consist of three well-marked divisions, though but one of these is generally admitted - the tropical American kinds grouped under the name Selenipedium. These are easily recognized by their long foliage without marking, and the pollen is dry and powdery and not of the wax-like consistency common to all Cypripediums from the east; there is also a structural difference in the seed-capsule, and various smaller details make a dividing line between those that come from the east and west. The Cypripediums proper, most of which have beautifully tessellated leaves, are natives of the islands of the Malay Archipelago, where they occur mostly in isolated spots, two species rarely growing together, and also of the mainland of the East Indies, reaching up through Burma and into the Shan states, whence came our most recent acquisition, C. Charlesworthii, sent home by a British officer fortunately possessed of botanical knowledge and taste.
The section of the genus, however, to which reference is specially made now is that which embraces Cypripedium bellatulum, C. niveum, C. Godefroyae and C. concolor, with their several varieties. These are distinct in having flowers of a uniform ground color, from pure white to various yellowish white shades; in the great width of petal, the outer segments of the flowers being equal, or nearly so, and in the markings of spots instead of stripes. The foliage of this division is also strikingly individual, being thick and fleshy, tessellated, and not of such large dimensions as in the other sections. The flowerscapes are always dwarf.
This last section presents as great difference, from a cultural point of view, in the plants themselves. And while separating them botanically is not usually practiced, the cultivator, if he wishes to grow these gems, must be most careful to give them suitable treatment, or they will speedily be classed among the things that were. Hybridists were quick to note the striking characteristics of this section, and soon began to use them. Some of the most interesting results have already been obtained, and it is impossible to predict what is in store, so that it is not so much on account of the species mentioned, as the hybrids that have been raised from them by crossing with other species, all of which partake, to a great extent, of the habit of growth of Cypripedium bellatulum or its kindred. These hybrids are now among the most prized in collections, and it is essential to understand their requirements.
It has often been stated in published descriptions of these plants that they grow on lime-stone rocks, and that the addition of this material to the potting compost will greatly facilitate their growth. We have no lime-stone in this district, but old mortar refuse is an excellent substitute, as well as useful to keep the potting soil sweet and porous, and it is well to use it as drainage for the pots. If newly imported plants are received, it will invariably be found that a deep red clay of a most tenacious nature is adhering to the thick roots. We find even now, after a year or two of watering, that this red earth still sticks to the roots that are alive and sound. This fact set us to thinking about the usual peat and moss compost generally advised, and prepared us somewhat for a later experience - that of finding in some of the noted English collections whole shelves near the roof-glass filled with these Cypripedes, all in most vigorous health, and potted in loam alone, with the addition of lime-stone. The fact is our moss compost holds too much moisture in suspension for the plants, if it is kept in a growing condition, as with other Cypripedes; and if the moss is allowed to die it is even worse, for the plants like to be in a fairly dry condition before water is given. If a few pieces of loam-fibre are placed at and around the collar of the plants it will be found ample for their needs, and water must never be given until it is really needed, or damp will take off even the strongest plants.
Another point to be observed, and it is the most important of all, is to suspend the plants where they will never be watered or sprayed over the foliage. However they may be placed in a wild state, whether in clefts or fissures of the rocks, or if the moisture is rapidly evaporated by the air, certain it is that we must not apply it overhead. It is an easy matter to use pots of exactly the same height, putting several of them together in a basket and dipping them in a vessel of water when dry; no danger of decay at the base of the leaves need then be feared. It is the only difficulty to be apprehended, and one, too, that has prevented many from taking up the cultivation of this exquisite set of plants.
Plants newly received have most likely come by way of Europe, and our experience, which is also that of others, is that thrips are very certain to be present. These destructive little pests seem inseparable for some time, because water cannot be applied so freely as with other species. Strong tobacco dust, a pinch in each growth, will discourage them in time, and fumigating may also be resorted to, as this whole genus will not take harm from the operation.
It is not too much to say that Cypripedium bellatulum at least should be grown in every collection, however small. It is also the easiest to obtain, presents great variety in itself, both in the leaves and flowers, and will almost surely lead one to want other species, as they present, taken altogether, a series of gradations that point to one common origin, though some are insular while others grow on the mainland, far in the interior. The gem of the series is a spotless form of C. bellatulum, discovered by Commissioner Moore, who also found C. Charlesworthii. The foliage is also devoid of color other than green, and this fortunately led to its being kept separate by its discoverer.
Chemical fertilizers for Orchid culture is a delicate subject, and many cultivators denounce their use in strong terms. We have, however, for some time used them in homoeopathic doses, and in some instances with surprising results. We have no hesitation at this time in saying that a little nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia, or, better still, both alternately used as a weak solution for watering, will give depth of color to the leaves and vigor not to be had under other treatment. This is mentioned for the purpose of experiment by cultivators of an inquiring turn, rather than by way of refutation of the published opinions of other cultivators. South Lancaster MA, E O. Orpet.

13 January 1897
Garden Phlox
The varieties of garden Phlox are doubtless more useful for summer decoration than any other one class of plants. They are in bloom for three to four months of the year, and few hardy border plants give as much satisfaction for the little care required. Perhaps the slight attention they need is a drawback to their cultivation, as the general impression is that it is only necessary to set out the plants and the work is done. There could not be a greater mistake made with regard to garden Phlox, or, indeed, any other garden plant of value, and only such plants as Dandelion and Purslane take care of themselves.
All highly developed plants, such as Phlox, Double Pyrethrum and Larkspur, are the result of rigid selection and attention, and the tendency is to revert or degenerate to original types. How often when passing a neglected wayside garden do we see near the fence a few Tiger Lilies, a clump of Paeony, and almost inevitably a few tall stems of the old purple Phlox. If the latter is closely examined it will be found to be almost identical with P. paniculata, from which all of this class sprang. No matter how intricate the pathway up to the florist's standard of a good type of garden flower, it is only a step or two back to original principles, and any one who grows such plants in the garden knows that it is more trouble to weed out these reversions each year than to eradicate true weeds. The highly developed varieties of garden plants must be nursed and fed according to their needs. Phlox is a great feeder and requires a constant supply of rich food to keep it in good health. A strong clump will die out, not at once, perhaps, but in a season or two, simply from lack of nourishment. Before it dies an abundance of seed will have been scattered, and the weaker the parent plant, the greater the proportion of fertile seeds, for this is nature's method of perpetuating its kind. The result the next year is a quantity of degenerates in the border, and sometimes there is a tendency of the original plant to revert.
There are three well marked divisions of border Phlox. One has P. suffruticosa as its parent, and is not so often in evidence as the other two that owe allegiance to P. paniculata. From this species there are two sections, one early-flowering and dwarf, and the other is taller and flowers late in summer. These two last named are the ones of most value, from which we have the best forms with brightest colors. There is not much to choose between the productions of Lemoine in France and Kelway in England. Lemoine was the pioneer in this, as in other great advances with garden plants, while Kelway has carried on the work and done much to distribute his plants. A list of the best sorts is scarcely needed here, and would be a repetition of lists already published.
The longevity of these plants depends on their propagation. If only a few reserve plants are needed to keep up the supply, the clumps should be lifted in spring as soon as frost will permit. They should be divided carefully and the pieces replanted in fresh soil. If a larger number is required, the clumps should be placed in a warm greenhouse or hot-bed until they send up young shoots. These should be taken off as soon as long enough, when they will root freely. If grown in pots and hardened off they may be set outdoors in early summer, and they will flower freely at the proper time. Only one large head will be produced the first year, but thereafter the roots will increase rapidly. If a quantity of summer decorative plants in pots are required, some may be kept and grown on in pots, giving them a shift as they need it, and few plants will give greater color-effects than good garden Phlox grown in this way. It is also possible to prolong the season of flowering by taking off the flower-head as soon as it appears. The dormant side-shoots will then develop, and the display will be equally good, but later.
Like many other of our best garden plants, these are purely North American. The original species was found here, but was developed in Europe, as were Pentstemons, and more recently the common wayside Aster. The latter are fertile in good forms of garden origin, but these do not seem to have yet recrossed the Atlantic. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

3 February 1897
The Hellebores
It is the intention of these notes to mention more especially the true garden Hellebores or varieties of Helleborus niger, commonly known as the Christmas Rose, but as there are several plants grouped together under the common name of Hellebore, and as some of these have been the means of bringing these beautiful winter flowers into bad repute, it may not be time wasted to consider the synonymy of these popular names.
In the first place, the Helleborus niger has no part in the composition of the insect powder sold under the name of Hellebore powder. This is made of the Veratrum album, or White Hellebore, as a basis, its properties of destroying caterpillars being well known. The North American species, V. viride, is also used, but is said to be less effective in results. The Winter Hellebore is the pretty little Eranthis hyemalis, or Winter Aconite, and there are two Orchids from which the French Helleborine is obtained, namely, Serapias lingua, a native of south Europe, also another Helleborine obtained from the genus Epipactis. Thus we see that under one generic term, Hellebore, we have plants that represent three distinct families, and this is a good illustration of the futility of popular names for plant identification.
Helleborus niger is so called from its black root-stock; it is the Christmas Rose of gardens because it flowers at that season if given treatment so that its flowers may expand at midwinter without the blighting influence of severe frosts such as we experience in New England. In the latitude of New York I have grown these plants and had them flower admirably outof-doors, though only in certain seasons. It is far better, however, to grow them wholly in frames, where they can be shaded in summer from strong sun, for if left undisturbed in such a situation, and protected in winter from cold, there is no difficulty in having flowers of spotless purity at Christmas, when they are most acceptable. It is possible that in the near future we shall see them grown in great quantity for the Boston market, as some of our commercial growers are preparing to have them in quantity, for only in this way can an impression be made. There is every reason to believe that the venture will be a success by having enough plants to lift half each year to produce a crop of bloom and let them rest the year following while taking in the other half.
Of Helleborus niger there are at least half a dozen wellmarked forms cultivated in gardens. There is the narrowleaved form, Angustifolius of English gardens, and another similarly named of Scotch origin, the latter having its white flowers tinged with rose. Altifolius, also called Maximus, has flowers five inches across, and often three on a stem. There is, too, an intermediate form known as Caucasicus, the still better-known Madame Fourcade, with snow-white petals, and lastly, Major, which rivals in size the giant Altifolius. Thus it will be seen that a collection of the form of H. niger alone make a most interesting group in themselves, and are really decorative subjects for the winter season when a little care is taken to supply their needs. It may be said of the whole genus that they dislike disturbance at the root more than most plants do. After division or removal it is often a year or two before they fully recover, hence the need of either planting in pots for plunging or frame treatment all the year, as noted.
Besides the true Christmas Rose, there is another section of the genus that has been developed from the different species that are scattered all over Europe and extend into Asia Minor. There are about ten species from about as many different countries, and under garden culture a race of plants has been produced which are much superior to the species themselves. Of these the best are F. C. Heineman, Frau Irene Heineman, Apotheker Bogren, Doctor Schleicher Albin Otto, W. Schmidt, Commerz, Benary and Hofgartner Hartwig. These are all of German origin, and with their species flower about Easter-time in the open ground; it is possible to grow them out-of-doors the year round if a little protection is given to the ever-green foliage in fall in the way of dry leaves or hay to help collect the snow round the plants. They are, indeed, very suitable for planting as an undergrowth for trees or shrubs that would furnish shade in summer, while they do not rob the soil of so much moisture as to impoverish the Hellebores. A good soil rich in vegetable humus is well adapted to their growth; a top-dressing of leaf-mold will best aid in keeping the plants in vigor, and it should be left as a mulch rather than spaded in and mixed with the soil, as there is danger of disturbing the roots by this operation.
Two species of Hellebore are found wild in Great Britain, though possibly not indigenous. Helleborus foetidus is of a semi-shrubby habit and a plant of great decorative value on account of its fine foliage effects in winter; the other species, H. viridis, is similar, and both have green flowers that are the least desirable feature of the plant, their foliage being more ornamental.
Hellebores bear seed freely, and this may be sown preferably as soon as ripe, or some time will elapse before the young plants appear. But as both the winter and spring flowering sections cross readily, it is possible by forcing one and retarding the other to hybridize the two sections and get very desirable plants. Strong plants are readily separated, and this is the best way to increase any desired variety. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

24 February 1897
Lachenalias
Midwinter flowering plants are not, and never will be, too plentiful. This is the one period that taxes the skill of those who have to provide these in quantity, more especially from the end of the Chrysanthemum season until the coming in of Dutch bulbs in spring. Freesias from the Cape of Good Hope are of comparatively recent origin in gardens and fill a place that will never again be vacant, and another valuable set of bulbs, also from the same region, are the Lachenalias. These are very old residents of gardens, since the records show that they were known and cultivated as long ago as 1752, and have since been continuously grown. It does not appear, however, that more than the true species were known, and these remained unimproved down to 1880. At this late date the Rev. John Nelson, an English clergyman, raised the first seedling variety, L. Nelsoni, still perhaps the best of all varieties. More recently still, another clergyman has entered the same field, and to Rev. T. H. Marsh we are indebted for the kinds known as Ruby, Topaz, Little Beauty and Cawston Gem, all of which are distinct gains to gardens. They are, indeed, better than the true species, with the possible exception of L. pendula, which is a giant of its kind.
Most of our winter-flowering plants need an amount of care and preparation during summer that adds largely to their cost, and is not always compensated for by their value when in flower. The popularity of the Freesia among cultivators is largely due to the ease with which it may be stored away in early summer until time for planting in autumn. The same treatment is all that is required for Lachenalias, so that when they are better known they should be more generally grown. Pans, such as other bulbs are grown in, or five-inch pots, should be used, owing to their dwarf habits. The pots are more desirable, owing to their adaptability for general decorative uses. We plant in August in rich soil, and place the pots in a sunny frame until it is no longer frost-proof in early winter. Lachenalias dislike heat and coddling, and the cooler the house, so long as it is free from frost, the better will be the flower-spikes and the foliage. The leaves are attractive and are marked like those of some of the Dogtooth Violets. When the pots are brought into the greenhouse they should, if possible, be placed on a shelf close to the glass, where they can get all the air possible. The flowers will be produced from November until March if a few of the best sorts are grown.
Lachenalias seed freely, come up quickly if the seeds are sown at once, and what is more desirable, perhaps, can be obtained true from seed. This I have heard disputed, but we have them now in bloom without the least variation from the parent variety. While some of the bulbs flower the second year, the majority will take three years to bloom. There is still a field for the hybridist, all the more enticing that the best kinds now known in gardens are of garden origin. No one seems to have yet taken in hand the crossing of the earlier gigantic L. pendula with the later-flowering kinds. We this season planted a lot of L. pendula late in winter for the express purpose of having it in bloom with L. Nelsoni and L. tricolor, and in this we have succeeded. It only remains to cross them, and we may be able to get an infusion of bright coral-red among the yellows that has not been obtained by earlier operators.
A few notes of varieties best worth growing may be in place here, though it is preferable to procure them in autumn with the other bulbs, or as soon as they can be had from Holland. Lachenalia pendula, before noted, is the first to bloom. Indeed, we use it with the earliest of Roman Hyacinths, with which it is a pleasing contrast in color, while the spikes are equal in vigorous development. The leaves of this species are unspotted, and as large as those of a garden Tulip. There is a variety called Gigantea which we have never yet grown, but hope to next year. L. tricolor, of which there are at least half a dozen varieties, is also one of the best. It is in flower now in best condition, and is useful either in pots or for the flowers when cut. The stems should not be cut, but gently pulled out, as Cyclamen flowers are pulled. This adds length to the stelm, and if it is done carefully the bulbs are not injured. L. Nelsoni is the best of all the sorts yet grown. Its color is a bright golden yellow; it increases readily, and is a great advance over its parents, as indeed are the other garden forms already named. It is safe to assume that if these kinds are tried they will be but a beginning, and such species as L. aurea, L. orchioides, L. Cami and L. quadricolor will be added to the set, for all are beautiful and distinct. There are many more species, some of which bear the reputation of being hard to flower in gardens, but with our bright sunny summer days to ripen the bulbs, and the longer growing season in autumn, we ought to have a great advantage over European cultivators.
When one has enough bulbs, there is no prettier way to use them than in baskets. The pendulous spikes show to great advantage in this way, and if moss, with a little bone-meal, is used to grow them in the baskets will not be heavy; a great amount of water or labor will not be necessary. The great secret of cultivating bulbous plants of whatever nature is to take as much care of the plants after they have flowered as when starting them. The bulb is built up for the next year's work after the blooming time, and on this foundation depends all the returns that will be had a year hence. We often hear complaints that Freesias do not bloom well if home-grown bulbs are planted. This depends wholly upon the after treatment that we give them. They should never be disturbed until all signs of growth have disappeared. All the soil should then be shaken off and the bulbs stored in a cool dry place until planting time comes again. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

24 March 1897
Cymbidiums
The complaint is often heard that Orchids as a family are far from being ornamental when not in flower, and to the ordinary observer there is nothing to be admired in a house of Cattleyas when the plants are not in bloom, although to the cultivator or connoisseur there is not a day in the year when these plants are devoid of interest. The charge of looking ugly or commonplace cannot be brought against the Cymbidiums as a genus, for even when not in flower they are striking in appearance, especially when seen as large specimens, and many of the species last so long when in bloom that they are among the most decorative of garden plants. There are no difficult subjects in this genus. All of them are terrestrial plants and require a compost that has a basis of loam with enough Fern fibre and broken bricks to make it porous, and they can be easily grown in a moderately cool house. A minimum temperature of fifty degrees in cold weather will suit them better than a higher one, for we have observed that to make some of the species, such as C. Lowianum and C. giganteum, flower freely it is best, after the growing period in fall, to keep them somewhat drier and cooler, to prevent a tendency to start into a second growth, which invariably prevents the production of a full quota of strong flower-spikes.
Cymbidium eburneo Lowianum is a plant of hybrid origin, as its specific name indicates, and it was originally distributed by the Messrs. Veitch some eight years ago. As it is the off-spring of two of the best-known species it is regarded as a triumph of the hybridist's skill. A short time since Mr. George MacWilliam, of Whitinsville, Massachusetts, received a first class certificate for two plants exhibited before the Massachusetts Horticultural Society of this same cross which showed marked differences from the Veitchian hybrid as shown by the colored figure in The Garden of October 5th, 1895. This improvement is not surprising, as the parents were both very fine forms of the two species, and the brighter coloring of the petals and sepals and greater portion of the lip, that is colored bright red, marks these two plants as distinct improvements on the original as figured by Mr. Moon in The Garden. Mr. MacWilliam states that the plants are but four years old from seed, and while only two have flowered this season out of the great number he has raised from the pod of seeds, many more will probably be strong enough next winter, and it will be interesting to mark the variation in the individuals, if there is any. This clever hybridist has found that no two individuals can be depended upon to come alike from the same seed pod, the variation being great, both in the plant and flower. Another remarkable fact concerning the seedling Cymbidiums is, that while the strongest have flowered this winter there are many tiny plants just appearing on the benches and on various pots that are obviously from the seeds sown at the same time.
There are many surprises always in store for the hybridizer, and the interest that attaches to a lot of seedling Orchids cannot be described in words. It has just been demonstrated by Messrs. Veitch that albinos occur among Orchids raised from seeds produced by colored parents, as in Laelio-Cattleya Decia alba, figured in The Gardeners' Chronicle (February 20th, p. 12i), and another clever operator has shown that albinos can be produced true from their own seed. Mr. Cookson has raised Cypripedium Lawrenceanum Hyeanum from seed, and the plant has flowers that are even larger than those of its parent. It is a form of C. Lawrenceanum without the purple in the flower, the white and pea-green giving a beautiful effect, and it will be an inducement for hybridizers to attempt to reproduce the exquisite yellow C. insigne Sanderae true to itself rather than to adulterate it with foreign color. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet

7 April 1897
Carnation, Chabaud
Summer-flowering annual Carnations are of quite recent origin, and it is only about five years since the Marguerite strains were introduced and accepted with much caution by cultivators, for it did not seem possible that they could be brought into flower from seed in so short a time. There has not been any apparent improvement on the Marguerite strain since its introduction; on the contrary, there seems an even greater tendency to the production of single flowers than when first sent out. I have noticed that a large proportion fail to flower the first season, and it is evident that the strain has not been perpetuated with as much care as it deserves.
The Chabaud strain of annual-flowering Carnations was therefore a valuable addition. These seem to combine all the good features of the older Carnations, such as free flowering, diversity of color, fragrance equal to the indoor varieties, and good yellow varieties occur quite frequently. This is one of the few sterling novelties that cultivators are always seeking, but do not succeed in finding with all their purchases.
Annual-flowering Carnations should be sown early in the year if they can be sown under glass. Treated in this way the flowers will be most satisfactory, but it is by no means too late to sow now, as there will be rapid growth during the brighter and longer days. We made a sowing last December to see how large it was possible to have them and how early in the summer, but another sowing made now will lengthen the flowering period considerably in the late summer months, when flowers are scarce. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

19 May 1897
Flower Garden Notes
With a garden of flowers judiciously planted, there is no period more interesting than the present when all plants are coming on rapidly and many are at their best bloomn. The mixed border of bulbs, perennials and annuals makes up the ideal combination that will give flowers from April until October, a result not to be gained in any other way, and at the same time it is the most economical way of filling a border, for few plants need replacing each year except the annuals, and the most of the labor lies in weeding out such as are encroaching on their near neighbors; there are always many of these, and a good time to see to it is the present. Seedlings are the most troublesome, perhaps, and these can easily be detected now before they gain vigor. Larkspurs and Phlox are particularly prone to reproduce themselves, and they are almost invariably inferior, and, unless they are really needed in the border, should be pulled up without hesitation. The newer race of single tree Paeonies have wintered well and seem reliably hardy. There were some that never took kindly to the new conditions last year, and these have died during the winter, but the remainder are well set with flower-buds which will in a few days open about the same time as Paeonia tenuifolia, P. Wittmanniana anld P. corallina, all of which are early-flowering species and valuable at this time of year.
It is a matter ot surprise to me each season that there are not more of the species of Tulip planted in gardens for permanent effect. Their beauty, hardiness and longevity are all beyond question and look well mixed. The Parrot varieties, the forms of T. Gesneriana, T. elegans, T. cornuta, T. sylvestris and many more, are all thriving better after a five years' residence than if they had been newly imported from Holland. It is true they have all been lifted twice and replanted, but this was necessary owing to the way the bulbs had increased; but, apart from this, no other attention has been given. Oriental Poppies are also planted through the Tulip bed, a large one, and these will flower in June. All are seedlings from the true blood-red form known as Papaver bracteatum, and we find it comes true from seeds when taken from isolated plants. The Poppies in their turn will die down soon after the Zinnias are set out between the Tulips, and we shall have good effects from these in late summer until frosts arrive. There are no annuals that are so satisfactory as the Zinnias taken in all respects. No insect pests devour them, the flowers are admirably adapted for house decoration when cut, and they are easily raised from seeds. To get the young plants started well, however, they should be planted out on a mild hot-bed from the seed boxes, such as are used for growing on early vegetables. It is difficult to get good strong plants by June if they are set out on a cold bottom.
The Narcissus season is about past now; only a few of the Poet's varieties remain to open, and these are naturalized in the orchard under Apple-trees, where the white starry flowers seem peculiarly suited. They thrive well here, too; better, indeed, than in the border under richer soil and cultivation. The more robust Trumpet varieties do not do as well in the grass; they enjoy more nourishment, and will give correspondingly better returns. If the crop ot flowers has been poor this spring, it is a sure sign of deterioration, and will probably be caused by overcrowding of the bulbs; ours all had to be transplanted last fall, and had been left a year too long. We did not get the amount of flowers this spring that the bulbs ought to have produced, and those that were potted up for forcing did not flower well. Next fall, however, they will be in fine condition to lift for winter blooming, and ordinarily home-grown bulbs give much better returns than those grown in Holland, and they can be had in bloom earlier.
We have been much pleased with the Burbank Canna. It is very similar to Austria, but has more substance, is dwarter, and seems to have broader foliage. We have had a good opportunity to compare them, as we had the two, with Italia, in bloom at the same time. The trio will make valuable plants for flowering in the greenhouse in pots or tubs, and there is no doubt a place for them, even if they are not adapted to outdoor culture, as with the Crozy race.
Another very pretty novelty of this season is the so-called yellow Soupert Rose Moselle. It is extremely double, with a pretty apricot-yellow centre. Now that it is well known what admirable bedding Roses the Soupert Roses make, the Moselle will be a decided gain for summer bedding. The Roses of this race bloom perpetually in the open ground until frost, and their hardiness is undoubted. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

9 June 1897
Physalis Franchetti
To those who tried this fine new species last summer it was a disappointment. It was regarded as a pot-plant, and at first even seemed an annual. Late in summer it seemed that stolons were being formed for the next year's display, and we left outdoors those that had been planted out to see if they would prove hardy. These plants are now growing freely in the open border. It is evidently a good hardy perennial in habit, and by no means fitted for pot culture, for the plants that were carried over winter in pots have not been as satisfactory as the ones in the border. This plant has been extensively advertised as the new Chinese Lantern-plant. It was one of the discoveries of Mr. James Veitch during his visit to Japan, or, at least, to him we are indebted for living plants.
Cypripedium bellatulum
Some notes of this beautiful Cypripede were published recently in these columns, more especially as to its culture, and it is not necessary now to say more on this point. A specimen recently exhibited before the Massachusetts Horticultural Society deserves special mention, both for its beauty and its high culture. This plant bore ten fully expanded flowers of large size, the pot being comparatively small for the number of flowers. It was thought deserving of the silver medal of the society. Mr. James E. Rothwell, of Brookline, who is the possessor of this plant, has many fine specimens of this species. One is gigantic in habit of growth and size of flower, the leaves being nearly a foot long and very broad. Another variety is unique in that the spots are in distinct lines through the middle of each segment of the flower. It is a pleasure to find the requirements of these plants so well understood, and they are only one of the remarkable examples of high culture to be seen in this interesting collection which promises soon to become famous. I was pleased to see here a fine specimen of the pure white variety of C. bellatulum. This is the easiest to grow, perhaps, of all its kindred. The leaves themselves are devoid of all purple markings, and it is a very rare plant. Only one, so far as we can learn, has been introduced, but owing to its easy culture it should not long remain unattainable. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

16 June 1897
Asparagus Sprengeri
This can no longer be considered a new plant, for it is well distributed over the continent now, and those who were fortunate enough to secure plants early are beginning to enjoy the results of their venture, for the purchase of new plants is speculation of the purest kind. Not only do the plants sometimes vary from the published descriptions, but their behavior is sometimes extremely local, a fault the vender is not to be held responsible for. I am told that in Italy, where Mr. Sprenger had the original plants growing, the stems were upward of eight feet high and studded over with brilliant scarlet seeds, and the visitor who was my informant was most enthusiastic over the plant. Asparagus Sprengerii promises to be even more durable when cut than either of the other kinds now so commonly grown, and though it will never supplant A. plumosus and A. tenuissimus in public favor, it will make a sure place for itself. Our largest plant is now in a twelve-inch pot, and cultivators will find that unlimited potroom is essential for its success, or it must be planted out. The tubers are so numerous that they soon push the soil up out of the pot. The new potting material, Jaddoo fibre, is said to be best suited for such plants. It affords free root-room and enables the tubers to expand in the pots. The flowers of A. Sprengerii are quite pretty, being pure white on short racemes, and the anthers are of a bright orange color. It is decidedly ornamental when in bloom, and one can easily understand the effect of the red berries when ripe. The plant must be propagated from seeds; cuttings will not root, as with A. tenuissimus. Seeds must be freely obtainable, to judge from the rapidity of its distribution recently. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

30 June 1897
Seasonable Notes
The height of the flowering season is now here with plants in the hardy flower border, and the unusually wet weather has induced an abnormal growth, with the result that many plants are unduly crowded. I never remember to have seen so luxuriant development of Larkspurs, Poppies, Paeonies, Thalictrums, and, indeed, all such as love moisture, and. this includes about all the plants in the borders. We have found it necessary this year to go about and pull out a great number of the Columbines at the close of the flowering time, or as late as it was possible to tell their colors. The tendency in all cultivated plants is toward reversion if left to themselves, and this is soon seen in a mixed border where selfsown seedlings are allowed to grow. Those thus produced are generally inferior to the parents that are the result of much careful cultivation and selection. Especially is this true of Phloxes, Larkspurs and Columbines. The remedy for this is the rigid weeding out of all that do not come up to the desired standard of excellence. If this is not done our gardens soon present the appearance of those that have been left to their own devices for years and are dominated by the old purple Phlox and a few other plants that are equally hard to kill or eradicate.
The Rhododendrons have been specially good this year, better than ever before, and the growth is now in full progress. It is a great deal of labor to go over the plants and pick off the old flower-stems, but, like many other tiresome operations, it pays well and prevents the plants from wasting their energies in seed-production. After such a heavy strain on their resources in flower-production the growths will not be so strong as in other years, and it is, therefore, especially necessary this season to take off the seed-vessels as soon as possible.
Of Tulips grown in the border, and even those that are massed for spring effects, we do not consider it at all necessary to take up the bulbs after flowering; let them remain in the ground and plant some quick-growing annual over them. It will be found that next year the results will be even better than before, and this is especially true of hardy species, though most bulb treatises recommend annual lifting. We find that the dry period we get in fall ripens up with good results better than if lifting is practiced. If Narcissus have been planted for a number of years, and do not flower successfully, it is because of starvation from crowding, and as soon as the foliage has dried up the bulbs should be lifted carefully, placed separately in boxes, labeled correctly, set in the shade to become moderately dry, and then stored away to be cleaned on some wet days and made ready for replanting in September. It will be found that all the varieties of N. poeticus will have live roots attached to the bulbs. This species seems never to be actually at rest, but there is less root-action at the time the others are dying down than at any other, so that it is safe to lift them with the others, even if there are live roots to be seen. It may seem trivial to tell about careful labeling of bulbs when lifting them, but we have found that with a moderately large collection, or even a small one, it is about impossible, in the first place, to lift every bulb in the ground, and, in consequence, it is better to plant in a different position next time, or mixing will be sure to follow. It also seems about impossible to label all so that they may be rightly distinguished at replanting time. This seems a matter to be easily accomplished, but let him who is sure of it try, and see how his bulbs look at flowering time next year, and the advice will probably not seem so unnecessary.
Any seedling plants that have been raised to add to the borders should be planted without further delay, and it is good practice to have such each year, either for the reserve border or for setting directly where they are to remain. It is also a good time to sow seeds of such as ripen early in the garden, for, if sown now, the plants will be large enough to set out in fall and save a lot of storage-room in the frames during winter and spring. There is no necessity for treating hardy plants under glass at all at this season, or, indeed, at any other, if sowings are made in early summer in carefully prepared seed-beds and transplanting is carried on during showery weather, remembering always the fact that the smaller a plant is, within reasonable limits, when set in its permanent position, the more certain it is to be long an occupant of the garden. Large plants rarely recover from the shift unless they have tuberous roots or some other reservoir to draw upon. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

21 July 1897
Greenhouse Notes
Most people are fond of Mignonette, especially when used with other cut flowers, and it is never at its best until cool weather or midwinter under glass. To have it early, or about Christmas, the seed should be sown at the end of this month on a bench in a house that will be cool in winter. A minimum temperature of forty-five degrees is well suited to produce good spikes, and this is about the average temperature of a Violet-house in cold weather. It is almost impossible to make the soil too rich for Mignonette, and it also does best in a deep bench with at least a foot of soil, or, better still, in what is known as a solid bed where the roots may be cool and moist. Of course, a good strain of seeds must be planted. The Machet is most generally used, but any of the selected strains are equally suitable. Care must be taken to give plenty of room when sowing. We usually sow in rows eighteen inches apart, and thin out the plants when they are of good size to six inches in the row. A close watch must be kept when the plants are young for the small green caterpillars of the white butterfly; they will speedily ruin all the seedlings if neglected for a few days, but Hellebore will help, and with hand-picking they may be kept down.
Antirrhinums are becoming popular as winter-flowering plants, and the keeping qualities of the flowers after they are cut are surprising. They make a good succession to Chrysanthemums in the benches, and will flower in early spring. To have plants suitable to set out in benches in November cuttings may be taken now from some plants whose flowers are of special colors, or seeds of the mixed varieties may be sown now to furnish plants that will not have flowered previous to planting indoors. Antirrhinums may also be grown in pots to flower, but, like most free-rooting plants, should have a bench if possible.
The newer kinds of single Violets promise to be most useful flowers. Princess de Galles is a superb flower of good round outline, very fragrant and vigorous in growth. There seems to be no tendency to disease in these new strains, at least I have detected none thus far. Luxonne is another new one that should be tried; it is not so fragrant as some others, but is the largest of all, and owing to the narrow petals it measures almost as much across as some Pansies. The color of both these Violets is a good deep blue, and there seems to be no limit to their length of stem. If grown for no other purpose they ought to be tried for furnishing leaves to go with the double varieties, as these are injured greatly from continual plucking of the foliage in winter-time.
Poinsettias are now starting freely, and as these plants repay good treatment it is well to repot them as soon as growth begins. They should be placed outdoors in full sunshine for the hot months, and with the first cold nights of autumn they should be taken indoors into a cool, airy house at first. If they are wanted for Thanksgiving a little more heat will be needed. The double variety is much later in flowering, and will last well into the new year. The soil should be made very rich at potting-time by the addition of bone or some other convenient fertilizer. It is unsafe to rely upon manure-water to bring them on later, as this is sure to result in the loss of much foliage, which spoils the appearance of the plants when in bloom.
To those who have not tried it before, I would advise pinching off the flower-stems of the main crop of Carnation plants in the field late in the season - say, the middle of August. A few plants should be reserved to flower early and set in cold frames for flowers until the end of November. They will do just as well, or better, than those planted in the greenhouse for the time, and when they are past, those in the house will be coming in with a full crop that will last all winter long, and will make a good succession to Chrysanthemums and help to fill up the inevitable gap that always seems so hard to get over. I have frequently lifted these from the frames to take the place of Chrysanthemums on benches, and they have done well, too, but this should not be necessary. One should calculate to have no flower-spikes showing on the plants at lifting time, and then the crop will come in as described. Very large plants are by no means best, and four plants should be used to cover a given space rather than three. Unless the soil is heavy, care should be taken in lifting to get all the roots up, even if not a particle of soil adheres to them. It is surprising how well the roots take hold of the soil prepared for them if they are free of old soil and carefully planted.
Freesias should soon be shaken out of the old soil if this has not already been done. They seem to ripen better if taken out and put in a dry airy place in paper bags. They are not liable to start unexpectedly either, as sometimes happens when left to summer in the old soil in an out-of-the-way corner. We also repot Lachenalias at the same time as Freesias, and they are stored in a similar way, as they are liable to begin to root if the least moisture reaches them when at rest. Both Freesias and Lachenalias ought to be sorted as to size at potting time if well-flowered pots are desired, the small ones being set aside and grown on separately to flowering strength.
A good time to put in a crop of Hydrangea cuttings is when the strong shoots that have not flowered this summer have reached their growth. They root freely if put in a cool shady place out-of-doors, and from these plants one may get a fine truss of flowers next spring. If they are planted out for a summer they will make fine stock to grow on for forcing the year after. No plants are more likely to become too large to handle properly than Hydrangeas, and it is often a problem how to store them in fall and start them in spring. But with the rooting of a fresh lot each year useful-sized plants may always be on hand and an abundance of flowers.
If Canterbury Bells, Foxgloves, Hollyhocks and other biennials are wanted for use next year, seeds should be sown now. The plants will not be as large as those from seeds sown in spring, but will be much more useful for this reason, and will winter over better where they have to be stored, as in New England. The first two will make useful plants for early flowering in pots, and it is necessary to grow Hollyhocks each year from seeds now that the disease makes such ravages among them. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

18 August 1897
Seasonable Suggestions
All bulbous plants that have been at rest during the early summer should now be looked over, as it is time to pot most of them. We are now putting all the stock of Freesias into pots and pans. They will soon begin to make roots if potted, and they never can be in flower too early. It requires early potting and good culture to get Freesias in bloom by Christmas. It is almost impossible to have the soil too rich for these bulbs, and to have really good flowers liberal supplies of liquid-food is necessary after they have begun to grow. We prefer to grow them in pots or deep pans, as they are available then for house decoration. But the best plan, where cut flowers only are required, is to put the bulbs in boxes, and when the shoots are well up to place short twigs of birch between them to keep them erect. We box all small bulbs to grow on to flowering size when it is needed to add to the stock of this fine winter-flowering bulb.
Lachenalias need potting at this time also. They come from the same country, south Africa, and have been at rest for the last three months in the pots in which they grew. It will be found on examination that there are signs of root action starting, and the sooner the bulbs are put in new soil and given moisture the better will be the results. There seems to be a growing liking for Lachenalias, and there are some fine varieties now in commerce, the result of crossing the various species. If it is desired to purchase Lachenalias, it is wise to order early. The Dutch growers last year could not supply many of the kinds, the demand being larger than the supply, especially of the larger-flowered varieties of recent origin. We find that L. pendula makes a fine companion plant for the Roman Hyacinth; it flowers at the same time of year, and adds variety to the prevailing white of the Hyacinths. Lachenalias can be grown in the coolest of houses; they are averse to heat in every case, and a shelf in a Violet-house, where they can be free from frost and have plenty of air, are conditions they delight in. Lachenalias make the best display when potted in five-inch pots. We have had them in pans, but to see them and use them to the best advantage pots are preferable, filled with rich soil. When planted they should be placed in a cool frame until frost comes, when they may be removed to the greenhouse.
To have Roman Hyacinths early we must plant early; in fact, as soon as it is possible to obtain the bulbs. The largest bulbs do not always produce the most flowers, but, preferably, those that are hard and well matured. It is the custom with some growers to rush the crop of bulbs on the market to secure early sales at the risk of maturity. This can be easily detected in the bulb, as it is then not hard and shows signs of premature ripening off at the crown. These delicate and fragrant flowers are in demand as early as Thanksgiving-time, and the bulbs should be planted as soon as they can be obtained.
Mignonette is desirable in winter, especially as it is never seen to so good advantage as when well cultivated in a house with a suitable temperature. Our summers are much too hot to favor the growth of good spikes, and it is well to sow some seeds of an approved strain now to have it when flowers are most scarce, just when Chrysanthemums are past. Mignonette likes a cool temperature, say a maximum of fifty degrees, such as a Violet-house will furnish, and a deep soil. A bench at least a foot deep is best, and though this may seem a great deal of soil, we find it is useful in spring, when hot-beds are being made up for early vegetables, to have the soil from the old spent Mignonette beds ready to hand already warm and in condition for sowing seeds or transplanting vegetables. There are many good strains of Mignonette now, as Allen's Defiance and Sutton's Giant. We have grown the latter for a number of years and it never has disappointed us. Both these kinds seem to be fine selections from Machet, which is the best for outdoor culture.
A word may be said for Browallia speciosa major, which has proved desirable for pot culture in winter. The older Browallias were small-flowered in comparison with this variety, and not very desirable garden plants, but this novelty has all the qualities that go to make a good winter-flowering plant, either for use in pots or as cut flowers. A packet of seeds sown now will make nice plants for winter use and will flower along until late spring. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

1 September 1897
Japan Plums
To the Editor of GARDEN AND FOREST: Sir, This new race of garden Plums has been regarded with much interest recently, principally, perhaps, because of the claim made that the Japan Plums do not become a prey to the black-knot fungus that has made it practically impossible of late years to grow the older race of garden Plums. We have an almost complete set of these Plums under trial so far as they are now in commerce, and this year have been able to judge what the fruit is like. Prunus Simoni is the progenitor of this race, and while that species is a rather poor fruit it is very distinct, both in shape, flavor and habit of growth. There is an unpleasant astringency in the skin of the fruit that affects preserves even, and it is necessary to peel the fruit to avoid this unpleasant flavor. But the value of P. Simoni is as a fruit for hybridists to work with.
The best Japan Plum we have found thus far is the Burbank, so named after its raiser, and which seems to be a cross between Prunus Simoni and one of our native Plums. There is certainly no finer plum in cultivation today if we take into consideration its hardiness, free growth and the large size and excellent flavor of its fruit. The tree was in full bloom this spring when a severe frost occurred that ruined most other trees in bloom, but the Burbank Plum came through well and did not seem hurt in the least. The growth made in the first two years after planting was phenomenal, about six feet all over the tree, and no signs of winter-killing were visible. The fruit is as large as a moderate-sized peach, with yellow flesh and a very small stone. We have decided to graft all the older kinds of Plum with the Burbank next spring. This will have the effect of modifying the growth somewhat, and may eventually be an unequal union of stock and scion. This resulted when P. Simoni was worked on the common sorts that had been subject to black-knot, but otherwise the effect was good.
Another Plum we have fruited to a limited extent this year is the Kelsey. It is a much smaller fruit than the Burbank, greenish yellow in color, somewhat like the Green Gage, but not so good in flavor, and it is not a very vigorous grower. It will need another year's trial before we can tell of its value with certainty.
The Abundance Plum is said to excel the Burbank in all respects. I shall be surprised to find this a fact, and it does not now seem impossible. It is highly recommended for planting for market, and a great many of the trees have been set out in this district. We have not fruited it yet, but hope to next year. Among others that are on trial are the Wickson and Satsuma, of Japanese origin. All have proved hardy, free from disease and not subject to any insect attacks. The only objection to be brought against them is their spreading habit, but if this characteristic had been known earlier it could have been corrected by pruning. The knife should be used freely on young trees to bring them into shape and keep them compact, so as to prevent breakage to the trees hereafter by heavy crops of fruit.
To those who wish to grow Plums in the garden I advise the trying of a set of these Japan Plums, as there seems to be good reason to believe that they will be the Plums of the future when the black-knot has wiped the older race out of existence. This pest is hard to control when the hedgerows are full of native species of Prunus, and these trees serve for its propagation. Fruit growers have considered it hopeless to be able to fight the fungus, and are planting the Japanese Plums in place of the native kinds. In planting it should be borne in mind that a much greater distance is needed between the trees a than between other Plums - at least eighteen feet when mature growth is reached by the trees. The curculio seems to be quite as troublesome in these new Plums as on the older ones, though we had hoped much from the thicker-skinned fruit. But to have clear-skinned plums the curculio must be fought in early summer, when it is doing its work. We lost but few from the stings, but the fruit was disfigured. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

15 September 1897
Notes from Rochester, New York
To the Editor of GARDEN AND FOREST: Sir, There is always a scarcity of flowering shrubs at this time of year, and, indeed, the flowers of perennial herbaceous plants are not too plentiful in the border at this season, and any additions are welcome.
It was a surprise to see in Highland Park, at Rochester, New York, some very fine specimens of Vitex Agnus-castus in full bloom. Mr. Dunbar stated that the plants were not hardy and had been killed down to the ground each year. The resulting growth gave them the appearance of being herbaceous instead of shrubby plants. The long spikes of bright lavender-blue flowers were extremely ornamental and distinct. V. Agnuscastus and V. incisa are the species grown there, the latter being the inferior in point of color, but both are desirable where a collection is grown. This plant will probably prove hardy enough in a moderately dry soil in all of the eastern states, as the winters at Rochester are more severe than in Massachusetts, and much difficulty is found there with evergreens that ordinarily are quite reliable here. It was surprising to see many plants of doubtful hardiness thriving there, and I was shown a vigorous young plant of Sequoia gigantea that had survived the past winter without protection and which had grown nearly two feet this summer.
The English Broom, Genista scoparia, has also been successfully grown there for a number of years, long enough to form a handsome bush, and at this time is covered with seedpods after a fine display of bloom. It would be interesting to see if the variety Andreanus will prove hardy there also. This is only a form of G. scoparia, but it comes from the hills of Normandy, where it appeared as a sport among the common Broom, and, unfortunately, has not proved as hardy as the type, if the latter is taken from a British-grown plant. It is well known that geographical forms of the same species have varying degrees of hardiness, and while we hope Mr. Dunbar may succeed in acclimating the variety Andreanus, this is doubtful. A plant of this species tried here, and which was well established on its own roots, did not survive the first winter.
There is much of horticultural interest in Rochester in its many large and famous nurseries, and the fine system of parks that has recently been formed is already a credit to the city. This system includes the Genesee River Gorge, a feature unique in its way and of inestimable value for its magnificent scenery, and the gorge has been made secure to the public for all time; the South Park, with its broad pastoral views; and the more highly developed Highland Park, where it has been the object to have every species of deciduous shrub that will grow planted according to its botanical affinity. This has been accomplished in a most happy manner on sloping hillsides that prevent monotony and give easy access by grassy walks. So. Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

29 September 1897
Raspberry, Bunyard's Superlative
I was surprised to find two years ago how good a fruit this is as grown in English gardens, and was at once ambitious to try it in the conditions of our New England climate. A hundred young canes were obtained and these we have fruited in the past two seasons. We are satisfied that there are few, if any, Raspberries to equal this for size and flavor. This impression also finds favor with Messrs. Ellwanger & Barry, who have about 40,000 plants of this Raspberry in their grounds, soon to be distributed. The canes are very stout and rigid, so that no staking seems to be required; the berries are abundant, and so large that they are often coxcomb-shaped like some strawberries. The fruit bears transportation better than that of many of the smaller varieties. Messrs. Ellwanger & Barry assure me that this variety is as hardy as any they grow, and much hardier than some others of native origin. This statement is reassuring, for we have covered our canes with earth each winter to make sure of them, as is necessary in this section with all the other varieties to obtain a crop. Many kinds are under trial here to find out which is the best. We have most interest in a lot that are the result of two large berries taken when ripe in the summer of 1896, rubbed out in fine dry sand and sowed at once. The seed pans were frozen early last winter and brought into warmth the beginning of the year, when the seeds at once came up. From this seed we have now more than two hundred fine young canes, averaging four feet in height and still growing. These plants, we think, are the result of a cross between the Cuthbert and Superlative Raspberries, as these two kinds grew together and bees were plentiful. Great variation is apparent in the habit of the seedling canes, and we shall watch with interest their fruiting next summer. There is yet much scope for improvement in Raspberries; none are hardy enough, the habit of many, especially the new Columbian, is very distressing when one has to pick the fruit, and afterward when the new growth is so far advanced as to become prostrate.
As already stated, Raspberry canes require protection in this section by laying them down and covering them with earth in the fall. One season the frost came early and continued, and the canes could not be laid down in the usual way. Loose straw litter was strewed over them after they were laid on the level. This plan was only tried once, as the field mice congregated apparently from the whole county, and in spring not one cane was left ungirdled. There were no Raspberries that summer. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

6 October 1897
Tamarix Chinensis
But few really good autumn-flowering shrubs are hardy and suitable for this climate, and those that are available are not used to the extent which their merits warrant. The beauty of Tamarix Chinensis is strikingly displayed in an isolated clump grown where it shows to advantage, and this beautiful plant deserves more general recognition. The whole genus of Tamarix is beautiful. There is great similarity in the species, but some flower in early summer, while the season is prolonged until late September by T. Chinensis. Tamarix plants are known as being valuable for seaside planting, owing to their ability to endure the saline atmosphere, and they are used to a limited extent in such situations. But their requirements are not by any means fastidious; any soil will suit them, and we have found them perfectly hardy, even young plants surviving severe winters.
It has been objected that these shrubs soon become bare at the base, and this is true of many plants that are not cared for properly. But there is no real objection to Tamarix plants if they are cut back frequently near to the base in spring before they start to grow. Indeed, this is the best possible way to obtain strong shoots with large terminal panicles of the pretty rosy pink flowers; when thus treated the shoots start at once from the base, and often attain to great height by the end of summer. This method applies only to the spring-flowering kinds. Those that flower in early summer, as T. tetrandra, should be cut back after the flowering season, in common with all early-flowering shrubs. Too often in small suburban gardens all the shrubby plants are sheared over until they are shaped like more or less symmetrical peg-tops, and all the promise of bloom is shorn off. Inexperienced men will do this sort of shearing as long as the owners are ignorant of the needs of plants, and those who do this kind of pruning are perhaps less to blame than the persons who employ them.
Tamarix Chinensis is admitted to be the best of the genus, and is found in some lists as T. Japonica and also T. plumosa; the latter name is suggested by the dense, plume-like habit of growth and panicles of flowers, which are bright pink in the buds and turn to paler pink on expanding.
We have found this genus extremely easy of propagation. It is an easy matter at pruning-time to cut the smaller twiggy growths into lengths of a foot and put them into the open border the greater part of their length. Most of these will grow if the season is favorable. If a greenhouse is available the cuttings may be inserted in pots earlier in spring, and the plants thus started will be much stronger at the end of the first season and should flower the second year.
In the year I893 Monsieur Lemoine sent out a new species called Tamarix Kaschgarica, which he raised from seeds collected in central Asia. This flowers in September and has proved to be a good and distinct plant. It was afterward found to be but a form of T. hispida, which has a very wide range geographically. Indeed, the genus has a very wide distribution. T. Gallica is found all along the Atlantic shore of France; T. Indica is a native of the East Indies; T. tetrandra comes from the Crimea; T. Germanica is distributed over a great portion of Europe, among the mountains and along the river banks. All of these species are considered hardy in the eastern states, and all are worthy of a place in gardens, especially where saline or alkaline conditions exist, and where it is difficult to make other plants grow. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

3 November 1897
The Cultivation of Mushrooms
This is an ideal time for preparing to make Mushroom beds, and if there is enough fresh material at hand for the purpose and a place where it may be laid out for a few days to air and sweeten, there will be no trouble now from flies, which give great annoyance earlier in the year, both before and after the beds are made. Our Mushroom beds have always been made up under the greenhouse benches, and those started early in the fall have always brought out a crop of flies that were hard to dispose of and very troublesome while they lasted.
The difficulty experienced in drying the material sufficiently before making up the beds so that the heat will not exceed one hundred degrees, has always caused us much labor. Sometimes a bed has had to be dug up after it was made firm so as to release the heat. We are now careful to have such absorbents at hand as a few loads of dry loam; this is mixed with the fresh manure and turned a few times, and there is then no great heat generated to dispel the ammonia necessary for the sustenance of the crop. The beds are thus easily made firm, there is no danger of overheating, and the heat being preserved instead of dispelled it lasts much longer in the beds. The crop is correspondingly better and of longer duration. We use about one-third loam and two-thirds manure. Some growers use one-half well-decayed manure and the other half fresh, and this seems to give good satisfaction.
After making up the beds the thermometer must be plunged well down and watched for a few days, and if there is no greater heat than ninety-five degrees it is safe to spawn. A greater heat than this will kill the spawn. At the end of a week if the heat does not rise the beds may be soiled over and made firm with the back of the spade. If the heat goes below seventy degrees a layer of hay about eight inches deep should be put over the beds. The warmth will at once be drawn to the surface near the spawn, and after this the heat may be regulated by adding to or taking off the covering.
There is always uncertainty about Mushroom-spawn even to a practiced grower. One has to rely implicitly on what the dealer sends, and it is exasperating to find, after much care and labor, that the spawn is of poor quality. It is curious, too, that it is always the spawn that is at fault. If it has white threads visible on the outsides of the bricks the mycelium has started one stage forward. As this process should take place in the beds themselves, the prospects for a good crop are reduced before planting. But with good fresh spawn, such as is imported by reliable firms in ton lots, there is little danger of failure if proper attention is given to the conditions. We have had great success with the cultivation of Mushrooms under the benches in a Carnation-house. In six years we have never had a total loss of crop, though some crops have been much better than others. A warm cellar would be a much better place and furnish better atmospheric conditions. But in the absence of a cellar one need not hesitate to try Mushrooms in.the greenhouse at this season. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

10 November 1897
The Storing of Bulbs
Bulbous and tuberous-rooted plants are indispensable for the garden in summer, and each autumn the best method of storing the bulbs and tubers must be considered. A great number of these plants rest annually at this period, and unfortunately, the plants that are taken the best care of while growing are often sadly neglected when at rest. They are frequently put to one side after they have flowered, as if they did not need further attention until it is time to plant them. But it takes a bulb longer to recuperate after flowering than it does to produce a crop. Often the flower-stem and leaves may be found within the bulb seemingly ready to start and come into bloom in a few weeks; but months of preparation are necessary for this growth to be possible. The Hyacinth and Narcissus are instances. What are known as Holland bulbs are for the most part spring-flowering, and are now in a cool cellar buried in sand and ripening for planting. Most of the south African bulbs and others from various parts of the globe are inclined to take their rest at this time, fortunately, and we thus have a store to draw upon when winter and spring bulbs are past.
Amaryllis are steadily increasing in popularity. These plants are admirably adapted to house decoration and are easy to cultivate. Our stock has become so large that it is each year more difficult to store it. A cellar is not suitable, for at this time these bulbs need light and warmth to mature them. Much of the foliage is yet green, indeed A. aulica and its offspring are evergreen. It is unwise to cut off the stems and leaves, and these must die naturally. When the bulbs are perfectly at rest they may be stored under the benches or on shelves in the greenhouse; care must be taken that they do not become dust-dry or soaked with water. Amaryllis are for the most part deciduous, but a few roots will remain through the winter, and these are a great aid to the production of strong flower-spikes if they are properly taken care of and not allowed to rot or dry off. We are now starting a few of the bulbs which have matured earliest for an early display, and at the beginning of the new year all will be started. The only way to make up a collection of Amaryllis is to raise them from seeds of a good strain. Seedlings, however, are evergreen until they have reached maturity; that is, at the beginning of the third winter after sowing the seeds they begin to lose their leaves and should be treated like the older bulbs.
Gloxinias are, perhaps, the most showy of summer-flowering bulbs and are grown in large numbers. They are slow to go to rest if well grown and not neglected after blooming. We hesitate to dry off Gloxinias even at this time if they show no signs of drying, but give moisture as long as it is necessary to support the leaves that are building up the bulb to greater dimensions and vigor. After Gloxinias are dried off it is preferable to store them in the pots they grew in during summer. We frequently have not room enough to keep them in this way and they are shaken out and stored in boxes, soil being sifted in between the bulbs. Tuberous Begonias are treated in exactly the same way. If they have been used out-of-doors and have been cut off by frost they must be lifted and laid in an airy place until the stems part readily from the bulb, and then they may be put away in boxes. Both Begonias and Gloxinias are apt to suffer from what is known as dry rot in winter. A little moisture should be supplied to keep the bulbs plump, and then many of the root fibres will survive the winter and be an advantage in spring. It is often said that a place where potatoes may be safely wintered is suitable for storing Begonias and Gloxinias. I prefer a place with a little more warmth; a minimum of forty-five degrees is advisable, and certainly not more than fifty degrees as a maximum for any length of time if it is desired to have a late summer display.
At this time we shake Achimenes out of the soil in which they grew and use the pans for other bulbs. These bulbs may be picked out of the soil, placed in dry sand and kept perfectly dry during the winter if stored on a cool bottom in a cool house. We take the precaution to put a board under the pots or moisture would be drawn up by capillary attraction sufficient to start them too early, or at an inconvenient time. Our last Achimenes are just going out of flower; we find that these plants flowering late in September are a pleasing feature in the cool house; in the hottest summer months the flowers wilt at midday and the display is then short-lived.
We grow a large number of Japan Lilies for summer decoration, mostly of the L. speciosum type, and these have just been cut down and put in a cellar. There are no more valuable plants for use in late summer. To have them late it is advisable to store the bulbs in a cellar where there is moderate freezing. This will keep them dormant until it is safe to put them outdoors. If stored in a cellar that is frost-proof they will certainly start to grow before it is safe to have them outside, and in a glass structure their flowering period is hastened at least a month, and they will not last until the Japanese Anemones come in to take their place.
Nerides are valuable autumn plants and would, no doubt, be seen oftener if they did not take up so much valuable space in winter. As they flower first and then produce foliage they need care now. It is a mistake to repot them before they bloom, as we have found to our cost, but it may be safely done now. If it is not desired to increase the stock all the young bulbs may be taken off and thrown away. The point is to take the strain of support from the flowering bulbs or the display will be poor the next season. They should be potted according to their size, five or six bulbs in each pot. They should not again be disturbed for two years. With this treatment we have had a fine display this fall, and a good growth is now being encouraged.
Where summer decoration is required few plants lend themselves more kindly than the ornamental-leaved Caladiums. The set of Brazilian sorts shown at Chicago in 1893 has greatly increased the popularity of these plants, and they are becoming better known each year. These are truly tropical bulbs, coming from under the equator, and cold is fatal to them, even for a short period. They must never be stored in a place where the temperature falls below fifty degrees, but above this degree of temperature there seems to be no limit. A friend winters his Caladium-bulbs on the pipes in a house where tropical Palms are grown; they are stored in the pots and soil in which they grew. A better plan is to shake out the bulbs at this time if the leaves have died off, and after cleaning off all decayed particles that are sometimes found at the base of the tubers, they should be placed in dry sand, new labels written for them, and stored in the boiler-cellar, as it is generally warm there. If decay is seen to have penetrated the tissues of the tuber, this must be cut away and some dry charcoal-dust mixed with a little sulphur be placed directly under the cut and filled round with sand. There will be no danger of losing valuable kinds if the bulbs are attended to in time. The newer English dwarf kinds are, without doubt, among the finest achievements of the hybridizers' skill, and reflect great credit on the raiser and distributers. Unfortunately, their price is almost prohibitory; but we have noticed that these highly-colored varieties are slow to increase, their vigor in this direction being dependent on the amount of green coloring matter contained in the leaves.
Gladioli, Acidantheras, Tritonias and Montbretias are all of the same nature from a cultivator's standpoint. They should be lifted in autumn as soon as frosts have killed off the tops. The new bulbs are then cleaned free of old roots and the old bulb that adheres to the base of the new one. After being laid out to dry for a few days in an airy dry place they are best kept in strong paper bags such as Holland bulbs come in. These should be suspended in a dry cool cellar free from frost. If care has been taken to free them from moisture they can be safely left until the next midsummer for the latest planting. We separate Gladiolus bulbs into two sizes, many of the largest being set apart for early use in pots. These are started in the greenhouse soon after January, and flower in the pots in May, being planted out in the border to mature. Some of the largest bulbs are also kept for late planting. Cultivators of large quantities of Gladioli bulbs find that the best way to winter their stock is to suspend it in a cellar as already described, except that when many bulbs are stored coarse bags are used, so as to admit air and let the moisture escape. If the bulbs are moist, root action will begin long before planting time, and the contents of the bags will be a mass of roots that must be broken to separate the bulbs.
This year we have planted out our Gloriosas. They promise to be of more value outdoors than in the greenhouse, as their liability to insects in heat makes it difficult to succeed with them. When planted out there is no trouble of this sort and they flower freely. They may be lifted and stored like the Caladiums after frost has killed them back. It will be found best to start them in heat to bring them forward, or they are likely to remain in the soil half the summer before they begin to grow. Both Gloriosa superba and G. Plantii give satisfaction when used in this way.
Dahlias and Cannas may be stored in a frostproof cellar. Cannas must be placed on a perfectly dry bottom and most of the earth shaken out, or decay from moisture will follow. We once lost our whole collection from this cause. Cannas really need a little warmth to do them justice, especially the newer ones, as they seem to have a tendency to be evergreen. Cannas will also winter perfectly under the benches in a cool greenhouse if boards are placed under the roots. If they are moist they will start to grow before the proper time, and too much space is taken up in the houses when it can least be given. We prefer dry storage in a cellar that would be considered warm. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

1 December 1897
Autumn Protection
To the possessor of a garden autumn is almost as busy a time as spring, though the work is different and not so interesting. All planting should be finished by the first of November, as there is not time enough thereafter for newly planted subjects to get established before cold weather, and there would thus be no reserve force for the plants to draw on during winter. After that date it is better to postpone planting until spring, or if plants arrive late, to store them in a cellar or other suitable place until spring.
In the garden many plants that are classed as hardy are not trustworthy in this respect. They may pass through a season or two without damage, but will be injured or killed in an unusually severe winter, or a normal winter after a wet and sun-less autumn. The past two months have been favorable to the ripening off of growth made during the past summer; this is fortunate for the plants, for if the autumn had been sunless many plants would have been killed this winter.
If there is any doubt about Evergreens, Rhododendrons especially, we always protect them by placing Pine or Spruce boughs between the plants. Formerly we covered the plants with a thatched roof of branches, but they are now too high to protect in this way. We find that if the branches are disposed through them so as to ward off the sun's rays in the early spring months scorching is prevented. The boughs should remain until after the first hot days in April, which most cultivators agree is the critical period. We bank two feet of dry forest leaves about the roots of the Rhododendrons early in November or before that time. These are not removed in spring, and the vigor the plants have taken on under this treatment is surprising. They act as a mulch to keep the soil moist. They are eventually taken down by the earthworms, and are just the kind of food that is good for the plants.
Hardy plant borders have now been trimmed of all the top growth, and this is the time to make preparations for vigorous growth next year if the soil needs replenishing. Last fall our borders were covered with about six inches of leaf-mold, as this material was at hand. It was left on this summer, and every plant came up through it with a surprising vigor. Two seasons are necessary for leaf-soil to become properly decomposed; the decomposition may be hastened by the addition of lime, but it would not then be available for use indoors for Ericaceous plants, or for Rhododendrons in the border, as lime is fatal to all plants of this order, and, in fact, to all that have fine hair-like roots. In the absence of leaf-soil, well-rotted manure may be safely used on borders; in gardens this is almost as scarce an article as leaf-mold, as it is generally desirable to use it before it reaches the stage of mere decomposed vegetable matter; but the use of any but old well-decayed material is not desirable.
It has been generally supposed that Lilies dislike manure in the soil, and these plants are often almost starved. It is true that manure should not be placed near the bulbs, as it often causes decay. This is especially true of newly-planted bulbs; these are sometimes bruised, and the elements of decay are present, and with but little encouragement become fatal. In the case of established bulbs, however, it is necessary to provide a rich stimulant to bring them into luxuriant flowering. If this is applied now as a top-dressing the improvement will be marked next year, and the application is likely to be made annually. Lily-of-the-valley beds are also now given their usual winter covering, preferably of leaf-soil. I find that a destructive fungus is likely to attack these bulbs if manure is used. A long succession of these flowers may be had out-of-doors by carefully arranging the beds with regard to exposure to the sun in spring, and by regulating the covering. We had good flowers last summer a month after the first came in, from a planting under the shade of Pine-trees, where the frost did not thaw out until late. Lily-of-the-valley is one of the few subjects that will thrive admirably under Pine-trees; I have seen them growing wild in such a location.
If Narcissus are grown by themselves in a separate border it is necessary to give them a good protective mulch. It will be found that the young shoots are well started already, and if as sometimes happens, snow and frost come late, they will even appear above the ground and be hurt when cold weather sets in, or late in spring before the arrival of genial weather. If they are covered now this will serve also as a fertilizer in spring, and will serve also to nourish the crop of annuals which will follow the Narcissus for a late summer display. Last season we planted Gladioli between the rows of Narcissus; this was even more satisfactory than Asters, or annuals which cover the ground more.
Coniferous trees and shrubs, such as the Retinosporas, Juniperus, Thuyopsis dolobrata and the Golden Yew need protection from the sun. We find these perfectly hardy in the most exposed situations if they are sheltered from the hot sun when frozen. Young trees of Sciadopitys and the Nordmann Fir are also apt to suffer from this cause. The latter will lose its leader year after year when young if not protected, and the Japanese Silver Fir (Abies firma) is sure to be hurt in a sunny exposure. The branches of Norway Spruces are useful as a screen and save choice trees from damage; these must be firmly placed in the soil about the tree before the ground is frozen or the storms will displace them.
Young Magnolias that have been set out recently ought to be given some shelter for a year or two. We lost almost the whole of a collection two winters ago. Well-established trees were killed to the ground in some cases, and the strong shoots now sent up are even more liable to injury. Magnolias, which are so beautiful and so hard to get established, should have shelter for a year or two after planting.
Hardy Roses are so called, we presume, because they do not die off at once the first winter. We find that a very short list will include all that are iron-clad, but the lives of Roses can be prolonged if the earth is drawn up about them at least a foot high. This banking will also attract the snow and thus be a help. Roses are quite apt to die to the ground if they are unprotected; if straw litter is used it will attract the field mice and these are worse even than frost, for they usually girdle the plants down to the ground-level.
A garden would lose half its charm were not these precautionary measures needed. They keep us interested in the well-being of the plants, and protective measures are never lost labor. It is better to be safe than regretful, and this is the time to get on the safe side. South Lancaster MA, E. O. Orpet.

29 December 1897
With the present issue, which completes the tenth volume, the publication of GARDEN AND FOREST ends. For ten years the experiment has been tried of publishing a weekly journal devoted to horticulture and forestry, absolutely free from all trade influences, and as good as it has been possible for us to make it. This experiment, which has cost a large amount of time and money, has shown conclusively that there are not persons enough in the United States interested in the subjects which have been presented in the columns of GARDEN AND FOREST to make a journal of its class and character self-supporting. It is useless to expend more time and money on a publication which cannot be made financially successful, and must, therefore, sooner or later cease to exist. Mr. J. H. Griffith, room 106, Tribune Building, New York, is authorized to receive money due to the Company, and to attend to any other business matters which may arise in winding up its affairs. GARDEN AND FOREST PUBLISHING Co.

Sources

1. ↑ ^{1.0 1.1} http://quod.lib.umich.edu/g/gandf/aboutgf.html
2. ↑ ^{2.0 2.1} http://www.loc.gov/preservation/about/prd/gardfor/essays/carr.html